drivesitfar
Well-known member
MR: pics are working great now and hard to believe that old brazed mess of a Reed 1c is now that gorgeous green one. VERY WELL DONE!!
Well fellas, I decided to restore that Reed 1C vise that I posted awhile back that had suffered a catastrophic assault at some point in its past. I just couldn't bear the idea of breaking it down into parts. I may do a build thread on it tomorrow, but I just wanted to show how she turned out!
I used this vise to teach myself the in's & out's of cold-bluing for the slide and other moving pieces - after the bluing was buffed out with some steel wool, I sealed it with Johnson's Paste Wax. Also took a chance and used a faux-sandstone paint over to bring back the "fresh out of a mold" casting look to it. Pretty happy with it how it turned out!
Some new ones for me
2" Vono, doesn't say where its made, but is got a registered design No and a patent No so its probably quite old and British, tension spring on the spindle is broken. Expensive for its weight at £28.
The £30 Columbian 603, bit crusty but otherwise in great order, just a little handle bend.
Finaly got a Swindens, cost enough at £265 but its a nice example, jaws are good, got its spanner, 4" main and a fat 2 1/2" pipe jaws.
Dutch Nice haul! That Swinden's for sure is pricey (~USD 375 for 4" vise at 48 lb). Is it fairly rare?
Nice additions Dutch. I'm a fan of the Vono's, they've a nice feel to them.
Looking on ebay, I came across this small vise. It's not mine, but is similar to an Athol I have. Any idea what kind this one is? It only says 02 Made in USA.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/VINTAGE-MA...:btsAAOSwhC1alHo3:sc:USPSPriority!64108!US!-1
Broken collar = scrap... Ill PM you an address to have such scrap properly taken care of!![]()
Just grabbed this starrett 324-1/2 for $80
Looks to be in fantastic shape with a lot of original paint left. I'd use it just as it sits. Great deal.
The picture is deceiving. Has a lot of rust on the unpainted surfaces. I can probably clean it up. I would like to repaint it eventually.

Disassemble, dip all pieces in Evaporust over night, rinse with water, dry, then paste wax all surfaces. Allow was to dry and then buff with clean, lint free rag.
Evaporust with not harm the painted surfaces.
Good luck and nice find!
Wazz, who owns the second Odin?
I've also got this Prentiss 53 down to the final steps. To me, this one is the perfect candidate for a bare metal look. My idea is to pick a color for the letters and then coat it in BLO. Any suggestions on a color for the letters that will look really good under the BLO and maybe still honor the age of this guy.
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Current project: Bonney Farmer Vise #300 ?
Weight without the base + parts 13 lbs.
WIP; with non original parts 16 lbs.
3" jaws, hand cut striations.
At opening 4" the screw starts to disappear into the body.
Needs some more work, painted then mounted.
Only visible number is "S 3" on one of the badges,
anything on the other badge long hammered out.
akasrick
$100 for this Wilton bullet? Want one but dont want to overspend. And this is only pic
Fairly happy how this turned out
akasrick
Recently I obtained a second Odin Universal Corporation Vise. This vise is an entirely new design then what is typically seen for these vices shown in prior posts in this thread. The vise below can be dissembled to sit horizontal on a drill press. If not dissembled the vise rotates so that perhaps one could drill at a 45 degree angle for example. Odin made vises between the 1920s-1950s in Chicago. The handle parts are just like the other Odin vises typically seen and may even be interchangeable. The vise is marked Odin Universal Corp Chicago Ill US Alloy Steel Forging. The vise weighs 80lbs.
Odin is known to have advertised in the General Tool Co. catalog of 1939.
Would anyone have an advertisement for this Odin vise?
It's not uncommon to see the leg cut off on a leg vice. Usually done when someone just wants to use it on a bench, which isn't at the same height as the vice.
Can this be restored so that the leg is added back to it? Maybe use a pipe that slips over it and then weld it on. What is the purpose of the leg?