VISE REPAIR 101 all vise repairs, lubricants, sources for parts and the tricks to fix

[trijeff]

Spanner. Think I already posted about it earlier in this thread.

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[gman007]

Get, Razor and TJ
Gents thank you all for the help and great suggestions.

The split collar came off with zero fight. The previous owner must have taken very good care of the vise! Not only the vise is in great shape but also it is lubed up nicely and that includes the collar area. Therefore there is almost no rust anywhere and with few gentle taps the collar was loose enough that I was able to turn it by hand using a screw driver.

I also found out something else that is new to me and very interesting. In the past all the vises that I have disassembled (granted this is not a huge list) including older Reeds had a simple pin holding the main bolt (for the main cork screw). This vise has a large pin whose top half has a slit and a set screw that goes through the pin (slit) and tightens against main cork screw bolt (see photos 2-4). I am not sure if this is true for all R series or not.

 

[PacificaVette]

I recently acquired a Chas. Parker No. 87. I’m not sure about the date this was made, but I would assume early 1900-1920, because it has the more “primitive “swivel mechanism (through–the-bench). It’s not in bad condition, but, obviously, needs some “freshening up”. The pipe jaws are missing, which seems to be a common occurrence. I’m OK with not having those---they are not something I see myself using, anyway.

It is also missing the pin spanner wrench that is used to loosen/tighten the nut of the swivel. This has been a real challenge to find, as many of you are probably aware. I bid on one listed on eBay, but was sniped by two bidders who wanted it much more than I did---$85 worth of want! (See picture). Since I only paid $30 for the vise, I wasn’t about to indulge in that nonsense.

Has anyone found any alternative to an original pin spanner for these Parker vises? I’m sure there are plenty of these vises kicking around without the spanners.

I have not yet decided on how to finish off this vise. I’ve got it all cleaned up and in the process of de-rusting the small amount of rust that was present. I’m probably going to go with BLO for that naked look, but I’m open to some other ideas.

 

[chrisnazzy]

I believe your Parker 87 has 3 1/2" jaws and would be the predecessor to my Parker 433 1/2A. I would bet yours is likely late 1890's on up to maybe 1920. I believe mine was probably produced in the 50's or 60's. Crazy though how they didn't change the style or shape much over the years.

As far as the under the bench swivel wrench, I'm afraid if you ultimately decide that only an original one will do, you're going to have to pony up. I've never seen one go for cheap on eBay.

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[Outlawmws]

I recently acquired a Chas. Parker No. 87. I’m not sure about the date this was made, but I would assume early 1900-1920, because it has the more “primitive “swivel mechanism (through–the-bench). It’s not in bad condition, but, obviously, needs some “freshening up”. The pipe jaws are missing, which seems to be a common occurrence. I’m OK with not having those---they are not something I see myself using, anyway.

It is also missing the pin spanner wrench that is used to loosen/tighten the nut of the swivel. This has been a real challenge to find, as many of you are probably aware. I bid on one listed on eBay, but was sniped by two bidders who wanted it much more than I did---$85 worth of want! (See picture). Since I only paid $30 for the vise, I wasn’t about to indulge in that nonsense.

Has anyone found any alternative to an original pin spanner for these Parker vises? I’m sure there are plenty of these vises kicking around without the spanners.

I have not yet decided on how to finish off this vise. I’ve got it all cleaned up and in the process of de-rusting the small amount of rust that was present. I’m probably going to go with BLO for that naked look, but I’m open to some other ideas.

If you look at the "Swivel through the bench" vises as a class, many had oversize "wingnuts". Is there a hole in the flange? For many the nut was to secure it, and the hole had a pin dropped into it and into a corresponding hole in the bench, or a plate with holes. Some had a plate and teeth on both vise and plate. Many options.

 

[va.grouseman]

As far as those toggle wrenches are concerned, they don't actually have The word Parker on them, at least the ones I've seen didn't.---So is there an AD somewhere that shows that Parker made them?---Other vise brands used those also.

 

[PacificaVette]

As far as those toggle wrenches are concerned, they don't actually have The word Parker on them, at least the ones I've seen didn't.---So is there an AD somewhere that shows that Parker made them?---Other vise brands used those also.

True---the only ones I have seen had "Pat. Dec. 18th, 1867" on the handle. They may have indeed not been produced by Parker, but they are still darned hard to find.

 

[454ragtop]

True---the only ones I have seen had "Pat. Dec. 18th, 1867" on the handle. They may have indeed not been produced by Parker, but they are still darned hard to find.

It would be easy enough to fab a working wrench/handle if you do any welding at all. Matter of fact, as I think about it, if you could find a "D" ring of the right rod diameter, cut away part of the straight area and weld on a handle.

 

[PacificaVette]

It would be easy enough to fab a working wrench/handle if you do any welding at all. Matter of fact, as I think about it, if you could find a "D" ring of the right rod diameter, cut away part of the straight area and weld on a handle.

Hmmm-that's the problem... I may need to find someone to fab one up.

The pin spanner seems like a tool that could have been in fairly common use, but you just don't see them anywhere. I've been looking through more piles of old rusty tools at flea markets and garage sales than you would believe possible.

 

[Fretters]

Easy enough to make one. A piece of square bar bent into a U shape, (or even cut & shape one out of thick plate), drill and tap the ends and then use either allen bolts or smooth pins with a threaded portion as the pins. Handle wise, one can either be welded on else drill, tap etc., and you can use some old implement which looks similar if you want to keep some type of appearance.

 

[akasrick]

I recently acquired a Chas. Parker No. 87. I’m not sure about the date this was made, but I would assume early 1900-1920, because it has the more “primitive “swivel mechanism (through–the-bench). It’s not in bad condition, but, obviously, needs some “freshening up”. The pipe jaws are missing, which seems to be a common occurrence. I’m OK with not having those---they are not something I see myself using, anyway.

Have you decided on a round plate for the vise to ride on the top of the bench yet?
I had a similar problem, a 2&1/2 lb. barbell weight was too large in diameter, had no luck sourcing one on eBay ended up finding something round with a smaller hole for the vise to fit in. A step bit fit the bill on that problem. I see that yours has the OG washer looks like they were fond of them, not so much today found a zinc one of course the hole size is wrong, to large.

Then there's that pesky little handle problem, the yoke has to be deep enough for it to be able to hang down after tightening and it has to swivel on the pin so it doesn't hit the bench leg. I also wonder why a lot more of then aren't around.

I like those type of vices, that's a really neat vise that you have and I hope you solve your problem and hope you pass your solution along.

akasrick

 

[va.grouseman]

Wonder if the yoke on some car universal joints wouldn't work?---Just weld the roller bearing cup that fits the yoke in place.---Grind off the part of the cup that wasn't needed.---Weld on a handle.---Just a thought.

 

[chrisnazzy]

Has anyone fabbed or found a lever that could be adapted to a Prentiss plunger style swivel lockdown pin.

My recently acquired Prentiss 21 had the pin and spring inside but not knob or lever. I cleaned up the threads in the pin and could easily thread a bolt down into it but that spring is no slouch. You really need a lever to pull the pin up high enough to unlock the swivel. 1st pic is mine. 2nd pic is what I would like to re-create.

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[KMScott]

Chris, really not that hard to make if you can weld. I drew one up a while ago and what I remembered is to get the pull to lift far enough to pull the tapered pin out of the hole. I was going to build the whole assembly but changed my mind. Pretty simple channel material with a pin running through it.

 

[chrisnazzy]

Chris, really not that hard to make if you can weld. I drew one up a while ago and what I remembered is to get the pull to lift far enough to pull the tapered pin out of the hole. I was going to build the whole assembly but changed my mind. Pretty simple channel material with a pin running through it.

Much appreciated Kevin. I saved your drawing for future reference. Thank you!

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[Carla]

Has anyone fabbed or found a lever that could be adapted to a Prentiss plunger style swivel lockdown pin.

My recently acquired Prentiss 21 had the pin and spring inside but not knob or lever. I cleaned up the threads in the pin and could easily thread a bolt down into it but that spring is no slouch. You really need a lever to pull the pin up high enough to unlock the swivel. 1st pic is mine. 2nd pic is what I would like to re-create.

Hello, Chris,

I had the same problem with a Prentiss I restored some years ago. What I did was to turn a new tapered pin, and thread the shank end for a turned knob to replicate the components used on the earlier Prentiss vises. It was a rather simple and easy turning job, actually.

I had thought about replicating the lever part used on the later Prentiss vises, which is readily do-able as a vertical mill job, simply milling a piece of mild steel to replicate the slotted end, then chucking the part in the lathe to turn the 'handle' portion, after which one puts some heat on the transition between the slotted part and the turned handle end, to bend it to the angle required. That could readily be done, to be sure, but I opted for the simple turned knob of the earlier style Prentiss.

I would say that the spring really needn't be very strong, just enough to reasonably keep the taper pin down in the base casting. The geometry of the fit of the taper pin in the base is such that a lateral loading won't try to force the pin up out of the taper hole in the base.

cheers

Carla

 

[chrisnazzy]

Hello, Chris,

I had the same problem with a Prentiss I restored some years ago. What I did was to turn a new tapered pin, and thread the shank end for a turned knob to replicate the components used on the earlier Prentiss vises. It was a rather simple and easy turning job, actually.

I had thought about replicating the lever part used on the later Prentiss vises, which is readily do-able as a vertical mill job, simply milling a piece of mild steel to replicate the slotted end, then chucking the part in the lathe to turn the 'handle' portion, after which one puts some heat on the transition between the slotted part and the turned handle end, to bend it to the angle required. That could readily be done, to be sure, but I opted for the simple turned knob of the earlier style Prentiss.

I would say that the spring really needn't be very strong, just enough to reasonably keep the taper pin down in the base casting. The geometry of the fit of the taper pin in the base is such that a lateral loading won't try to force the pin up out of the taper hole in the base.

cheers

Carla

Thank you for the insight Carla. I've contemplated just making a knob to pull up on as well now that the threads on my taper pin are cleaned up and useable. In all honestly I still need to finish cleaning the pin, spring and bore it retracts into. Once the surfaces are cleaned and greased up I'll be able to get a better idea of how much leverage is required to pull the pin up high enough to rotate the vise. At this point, with a bolt and washer temporally threaded into the taper pin, the upwards leverage needed to pull the pin sure feels like it will take more than a knob though.


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[454ragtop]

Chris, since your pin is threaded, it must have had a knob not a lever, no? I had to make a new pin and knob for my Prentiss, pretty simple lathe job. While I agree the spring is very stout, the knob works well, once the vise is attached to a bench.

 

[GETRIDAONE]

You could find a lighter spring to put in. I have a Yost that has a similar pin locking system. The spring was broken and replaced it with one from the hardware store.

 

[dkroth]

Anyone know what the wing nut is supposed to look like on this 2" clamp-on job? I'm going to weld something back on to effect a repair. Not sure if I want to have it look original or functional or what...

.

 

[Outlawmws]

DK, is that a Stanley?

 

[dkroth]

DK, is that a Stanley?

I see no markings to identify it as anything.....





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[GETRIDAONE]

Look on top of the slide under the rust. Search Stanley,Victor, Jersey, vise and you will find a lot of info and pictures of the winged thumb screw.

 

[nutjob]

I needed a set of the rubber bumpers for the Wilton bullet 4" I refurbed. I did some searching and could not find any to purchase.

I found some 1/4" thick black rubber at McMaster Carr part number 86335K17 4" wide and $4.30 per foot. Good price.

Using the 1 1/8" and the 5/8" hollow punches the bumper came out pretty nice. I measured against the bumpers on my Wilton 4 1/2" vise and these new ones are a bit thinner, a bit smaller OD and a bit smaller ID. But close enough!

Hope this helps others looking for the bumpers

Kevin

 

[GETRIDAONE]

Ouch

 

[Outlawmws]

I see no markings to identify it as anything.....
.

Look on top of the slide under the rust. Search Stanley,Victor, Jersey, vise and you will find a lot of info and pictures of the winged thumb screw.

End of the slide should have something. it may be faint

 

[Outlawmws]

I needed a set of the rubber bumpers for the Wilton bullet 4" I refurbed. I did some searching and could not find any to purchase.

I found some 1/4" thick black rubber at McMaster Carr part number 86335K17 4" wide and $4.30 per foot. Good price.

Using the 1 1/8" and the 5/8" hollow punches the bumper came out pretty nice. I measured against the bumpers on my Wilton 4 1/2" vise and these new ones are a bit thinner, a bit smaller OD and a bit smaller ID. But close enough!

Hope this helps others looking for the bumpers

Kevin

Fat O-Rings with an ID this size of the handle also work well.

 

[Outlawmws]

Ouch

Trouble GET?

 

[KMScott]

DK, I have a couple clamp-on clamps and happy to mail you one if one of these would work for you.

Top one. 1/2;13 thd's. x 2-1/2" of threads and with a 3" handle.

Middle one. 7/16:14 thd's. x 2-1/4 length of thd's. with a 2" handle.

Lower one. 3/8:16 thd's x 1-1/2" of threads with a 1-3/4 wing handle.

Kevin

 

[drivesitfar]

NUTJOB: thanks for posting up that rubber bumper fix you figured out. some of the members just buy O rings and i've heard many sources and colors over the years, but i didn't take any notes cause i don't use them. yep every now and then I forget and pinch a finger which on the bigger vises can leave a mark that is for certain, but it's a reminder to PAY ATTENTION for me so i leave my vise's handles naked.

 

[dkroth]

Look on top of the slide under the rust. Search Stanley,Victor, Jersey, vise and you will find a lot of info and pictures of the winged thumb screw.

Gotcha, thanks. Not my pic. I'll check later this evening. My vise seems a lot more than 10 years old, however.

.

 

[dkroth]

DK, I have a couple clamp-on clamps and happy to mail you one if one of these would work for you.

Top one. 1/2;13 thd's. x 2-1/2" of threads and with a 3" handle.

Middle one. 7/16:14 thd's. x 2-1/4 length of thd's. with a 2" handle.

Lower one. 3/8:16 thd's x 1-1/2" of threads with a 1-3/4 wing handle.

Kevin

Thank you sir, I may take you up on your generous offer. The slider handle makes more sense as one may need additional clearance under the table top when tightening the mounting screw.

[Damn, I should have bought that thread gauge at the estate sale last week instead of another handful of hammers.]



.

 

[dkroth]

Well, that went downhill fast.

Threw the dynamic jaw in the bead blaster to see if I could find the writing/stamping. Success! It is a Stanley Victor Jersey No 763. I can make out the patent date as well. (I guess the fish weren't biting on my 2008 reference in a prior email).

Then there's this. Who breaks a dynamic jaw on a two inch vise? And then repairs it with a super crappy weld. Yup, those are holes.

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[JimNC]

Looking for some help with a Reed 403 1/2, originally posted here but have a bigger question now.
https://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=391876

Here is the underside of the slide. You’ll note that the inside edges are chipped up, I assume that I can file a bevel there and that it’ll be fine.

The bigger issue is the crack at the access hole for the main screw retaining collar. What, if anything, should I do about that?

Edit: added 2nd pic, is it just a casting flaw?
Thanks all!

 

[chrisnazzy]

Looking for some help with a Reed 403 1/2, originally posted here but have a bigger question now.
https://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=391876

Here is the underside of the slide. You’ll note that the inside edges are chipped up, I assume that I can file a bevel there and that it’ll be fine.

The bigger issue is the crack at the access hole for the main screw retaining collar. What, if anything, should I do about that?

Edit: added 2nd pic, is it just a casting flaw?
Thanks all!

Neither issue is an issue. The "crack" isn't a crack, just the casting. I've seen that several times. As far as the rough edges on the inner edges of the slide, you could file them down a bit if they bug you. Shouldn't affect the operation of the vise either way.

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[Outlawmws]

Neither issue is an issue. The "crack" isn't a crack, just the casting. I've seen that several times. As far as the rough edges on the inner edges of the slide, you could file them down a bit if they bug you. Shouldn't affect the operation of the vise either way.

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[JimNC]

Neither issue is an issue. The "crack" isn't a crack, just the casting. I've seen that several times. As far as the rough edges on the inner edges of the slide, you could file them down a bit if they bug you. Shouldn't affect the operation of the vise either way.

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Thanks!

 

[GETRIDAONE]

I finished repairs on the Parker 975 from page 302, post 6027. I filled the hole in the bottom with a low temp melt alloy that is harder than solder. Next was an adjustable nut stop instead of a standard pin. The 3/8" handle screw threads were stripped and I put in a helicoil and a 5/16" screw, spring, and ball bearing. The swivel base shoulder bolt needed a bushing to fit tight. Last thing was a shim under the collar to get the last litle bit of backlash out. Forgot to mention filing the serrations on the jaws and some clean up on top of them . All considered, I am happy with the way it turned out.

 

[trijeff]

get outta here Get! Turned out real nice, you got some skills

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[gman007]

I finished repairs on the Parker 975 from page 302, post 6027. I filled the hole in the bottom with a low temp melt alloy that is harder than solder. Next was an adjustable nut stop instead of a standard pin. The 3/8" handle screw threads were stripped and I put in a helicoil and a 5/16" screw, spring, and ball bearing. The swivel base shoulder bolt needed a bushing to fit tight. Last thing was a shim under the collar to get the last litle bit of backlash out. Forgot to mention filing the serrations on the jaws and some clean up on top of them . All considered, I am happy with the way it turned out.

Get
You did an amazing job! It now looks fantastic!