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Ford spark plug tool, best one?

signcrafter

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May 9, 2012
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I know this has been covered a ton and I've read most of them but have a friend's truck to do with the dreaded 3 valve plugs that won't come out. It's a 2008 F250 5.4L with 9x,*** miles. I know the standard is the lisle broken plug tool and that is what I was going to order, https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00267PZUK/?tag=atomicindus08-20. But saw a different lisle kit for more money and more tools, https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00SQ4FSN6/?tag=atomicindus08-20. Then there is the OTC kit that is supposed to prevent the plugs from actually breaking so you don't need the removal tool, https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00C6R1P6I/?tag=atomicindus08-20.

So if you had to do plugs with a 9x,*** miles that have never been changed which tool would you buy?

Second question, I've read to use a 3/8" impact. I don't have my air compressor with me, have 5 of them but didn't have room to bring one back with me this time. I could probably find one to borrow if needed. But, I have a new M12 hex impact that I can use a 3/8" adapter for a spark plug socket on. This the newer one I just bought after my last one took a **** so it's compact and has decent torque. Will this be enough and also will it fit? Or do I need to order the 3/8" M12 impact? Or are both those too big and I need a 3/8" nano or compact impact to get the plugs out and borrow an air compressor to do this? Just want to make sure I have an impact that will fit and get the job done before I start this.
 
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ngk22r

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Second question, I've read to use a 3/8" impact. I don't have my air compressor with me, have 5 of them but didn't have room to bring one back with me this time. I could probably find one to borrow if needed. But, I have a new M12 hex impact that I can use a 3/8" adapter for a spark plug socket on. This the newer one I just bought after my last one took a **** so it's compact and has decent torque. Will this be enough and also will it fit? Or do I need to order the 3/8" M12 impact? Or are both those too big and I need a 3/8" nano or compact impact to get the plugs out and borrow an air compressor to do this? Just want to make sure I have an impact that will fit and get the job done before I start this.

Never used an impact for anything spark plug related. With the kit linked above, just use hand tools only.
 

plinker

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Northern Wi
I've used the Lisle tool, works well. I've only had one break, the hex sleeve actually spun on the porcelain, so I had to break the plug to be able to remove it.

Some penetrating oil sprayed in the hole once the plug is broke loose can be a help.
Doing a fuel system cleaning (motovac) can also make a difference with carbon build up.
Removing them hot has been said to help as well.


I've heard of using an impact, but I would not use one myself.
 

Tim C

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Dec 21, 2012
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We use the first lisle tool at work. Never had an issue getting them out. I don't even care if they break off anymore because it's just an extra 5 minutes per plug if they do, and I'm not flat rate, lol.

I've had decent luck getting them out whole by having the engine just cool enough to work on and removing them with a 3/8 air impact.

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kb1982

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Don't have any input on which tool you should get, but I'd recommend removing them while the motor is hot

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ToolmanGary

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Oct 25, 2008
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South Lyon Michigan
I've done plenty of these spark plug jobs. I use the Lisle tools to remove any broken plugs.

The best way to remove them is to warn up the engine, use a impact and do one side at a time. If you use the impact you'll break must fewer plugs and they come right out.

Use only Motorcraft spark plugs. Champion makes a 1 piece spark plug, but when those break just the hex twists off and leaves the rest of the plug and the Lisle tools won't work, then you have to remove the head to get the rest of the spark plug out. I've been there before.
 
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signcrafter

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Thanks for the replies.

So no reason to get the more expensive lisle kit or the OTC kit?

Can anyone confirm if the m12 fuel impact will fit in there to get the plugs and if it will have enough power? Looks like it has 1300 inch pounds of torque. Or would it be a good excuse to get a compact 3/8" air impact?
 

theoldwizard1

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The best way to remove them is to warm up the engine, use a impact and do one side at a time. If you use the impact you'll break must fewer plugs and they come right out.

This is the trick I have heard from all mechanics. Hot and use an impact !
 

Jason280

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My wife has an '08 Expedition with the 5.4L, and I just changed the plugs about 6 months ago. I'd been dreading it for a year or so, mainly because I knew it would be a PITA, but ultimately had to do it once it started throwing a "cylinder misfire" code.

I'd picked up the Lisle tool sometime before, and actually had the plugs, so finally got motivated one afternoon. I looked at several videos, and read quite a few different threads on the subject, and finally went with the "rip 'em out while its hot" method.

I let the engine get up to operating temp, and did the passenger side first. I hit everything on top of the motor and on the cylinder banks with an air nozzle, then pulled the coil packs. I took each one out with a Matco 18v 3/8" impact, and just hammered away. Once I finished the passenger side, I replaced that side plugs, cranked it again, and let it warm up to operating temp....then jumped into the driver's side with the same method. I was able to get all 8x plugs out, and didn't have a single issue....not a single plug broke or even cracked.

Now, your results may vary, but I am sold on the operating temp/impact method. The rear plugs can be a bit of a pain to get to, the driver's side took a universal joint and extra extension, but they weren't nearly as bad as I'd expected. Of course, none of mine broke, and having to use the tool on any of the rear cylinders would have been a nightmare.
 
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rsanter

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I have the first one. It worked fine
I had to use it 3 times on one engine.
I did one side and the last one broke.
I waited a few days and did the other side and the last two broke.
Do it with the engine hot.
I have heard that you turn it a 1/4 turn and put kroil down the hole and then they will come out. Didn’t work for me. I felt mine break with less than 1/4 turn so I completed it dry and used the tool
 

jumbojak

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I have the first one. It worked fine
I had to use it 3 times on one engine.
I did one side and the last one broke.
I waited a few days and did the other side and the last two broke.
Do it with the engine hot.
I have heard that you turn it a 1/4 turn and put kroil down the hole and then they will come out. Didn’t work for me. I felt mine break with less than 1/4 turn so I completed it dry and used the tool

If I remember correctly, Ford's TSB on those plugs called for a quarter turn followed by top end cleaner to help break the carbon deposits up. Not sure if a penetrating oil would have the same effect. Of course, the bulletin was mostly about extraction so not even Ford had much confidence in that method.
 

xin

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ARKANSAS - NWA
My wife has an '08 Expedition with the 5.4L, and I just changed the plugs about 6 months ago. I'd been dreading it for a year or so, mainly because I knew it would be a PITA, but ultimately had to do it once it started throwing a "cylinder misfire" code.

I'd picked up the Lisle tool sometime before, and actually had the plugs, so finally got motivated one afternoon. I looked at several videos, and read quite a few different threads on the subject, and finally went with the "rip 'em out while its hot" method.

I let the engine get up to operating temp, and did the passenger side first. I hit everything on top of the motor and on the cylinder banks with an air nozzle, then pulled the coil packs. I took each one out with a Matco 18v 3/8" impact, and just hammered away. Once I finished the passenger side, I replaced that side plugs, cranked it again, and let it warm up to operating temp....then jumped into the driver's side with the same method. I was able to get all 8x plugs out, and didn't have a single issue....not a single plug broke or even cracked.

Now, your results may vary, but I am sold on the operating temp/impact method. The rear plugs can be a bit of a pain to get to, the driver's side took a universal joint and extra extension, but they weren't nearly as bad as I'd expected. Of course, none of mine broke, and having to use the tool on any of the rear cylinders would have been a nightmare.

Just curious how many miles was on it?
 

WWheeler

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Jun 23, 2015
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Middleofnowhere USA
I've gotten away with 3 sets of Triton spark plug changes after helping a good friend get a broken one out with the Lilse tool (1st one in OP). We read up on it and watched a few vids and went with what other's claimed worked, which is get all the tools laid out and ready ahead of time, adding a can of fuel treatment to the tank (presumably to help soften up the carbon which is what gunks up on the electrode end and gets stuck breaking off in the head - I dunno if this helped or not but we went with it), take the truck for a nice drive to get her good and heated up (again, to soften up the carbon - this is what I believe did the trick), working quickly pull the coil packs off then zip them out with a 1/4 impact. Usually do half, then take it for another drive, and do the other half all while still hot. All of them have came out doing it this way, then we replaced them with Champions instead of Motorcrap's stupid design.

Here's one of the vids we watched (caveat, bad language a plenty) and became convinced was worth a shot, and it's worked for us so far.

<iframe width="560" height="315" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/XOVhhkC3A2c" frameborder="0" allow="autoplay; encrypted-media" allowfullscreen></iframe>

The worse issue, so I've heard, is the ones that blow the plugs clean out the head while you're driving. Glad I haven't seen that, and I'm not touching it if I do. They should line up whatever engineers were responsible for all this **** and hang them by the gonads.
 
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signcrafter

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Ended up ordering this lisle kit with the extra piece in it, https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00SQ4FSN6/?tag=atomicindus08-20. Figured the extra piece can't hurt and does the same as the OTC kit does. But still has the pusher and extractor if needed. The main reason I got this one over the basic lisle kit for 57 bucks is it was prime so will be here in two days. The other lisle kit wasn't and not sure when it would be here. Thanks for all the advice.
 

WhiffySpark

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Oct 22, 2009
Messages
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If I remember correctly, Ford's TSB on those plugs called for a quarter turn followed by top end cleaner to help break the carbon deposits up. Not sure if a penetrating oil would have the same effect. Of course, the bulletin was mostly about extraction so not even Ford had much confidence in that method.

That’s been super ceded. That was one of the first bulletins. Waste of time doing that
 
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signcrafter

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May 9, 2012
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Started taking out the plugs yesterday at around noon. Lisle tool was coming in the mail yesterday so I figured I would get a start on it and if any broke the tool would be there shortly. Got it up to temp and then used a 3/8" impact to zip the plugs out. Even with 95k and original plugs and the black boots they all came out without breaking. Guessing if I hadn't ordered the tool all the plugs would have broke, just the way life usually goes.

Got the truck back together and have a shiny new tool to put away in the tool box now in case I ever need to use it. Thanks for the advice.
 

kb1982

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Kentucky
Glad you didn't have any problems, anticipated or not. Being prepared seems to reduce the odds drastically. If you didn't have it, 100 percent chance that you would have needed to use it.

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