To avoid these ads, REGISTER NOW!

Footer and stick built building insulation

Bradbilt

Well-known member
Joined
Mar 8, 2018
Messages
162
Location
Gilbert PA
Ok, guys, getting closer by the day to building the new building

It is going to be a "40x96x16". Of that 40x66 is going to finished off with 6" concrete floors with radiant heat, 1" spay foam on walls and R21 fiberglass with tin.

Here are questions.

I see 2" foam board on the floor is the best for insulation.

Now, with the footers and 4' poured walls, should I be insulating the poured walls up to the concrete floor?

What about the pex. Should that be right on top of the foam board or should it be raised up into the concrete? I will have a 15k lift in the building, I dont want to have to worry about drilling the anchors into the pex, should I box out the pex where the lift is going?

What about the vapor barrier? Under for over the foam board?
 
To avoid these ads, REGISTER NOW!

Radix2

Well-known member
Joined
May 28, 2014
Messages
1,853
Location
the thumb!, MI
Ok, guys, getting closer by the day to building the new building

It is going to be a "40x96x16". Of that 40x66 is going to finished off with 6" concrete floors with radiant heat, 1" spay foam on walls and R21 fiberglass with tin.

Here are questions.

I see 2" foam board on the floor is the best for insulation.

Now, with the footers and 4' poured walls, should I be insulating the poured walls up to the concrete floor?

Yes - this is the most important insulation for your floor. More than 2 in would be good if you can swing it. Building the foundation walls from ICF blocks is a good way to get an insulated frostwall down to the footers without extra work. I had 2in foam on the inside of the footers too.

What about the pex. Should that be right on top of the foam board or should it be raised up into the concrete? I will have a 15k lift in the building, I dont want to have to worry about drilling the anchors into the pex, should I box out the pex where the lift is going?

Pex Stapled to the top of the foam and your mesh or steel on top is a good way to go - the position in the concrete is not critical and stapling is fast and easy
The pex will get you metal at least up into the concrete a bit.

What about the vapor barrier? Under for over the foam board?

Under.
 

Voi

Well-known member
Joined
Oct 10, 2010
Messages
5,148
Location
Western South Dakota
1" spay foam on walls and R21 fiberglass with tin.

I would double check and make sure that 1" of spray foam is sufficient for dew point control in your climate zone and 2x6 walls. I suspect in a cool, humid climate like Gilbert, PA you'd need 2" of foam combined with R13 fiberglass.
 
OP
B

Bradbilt

Well-known member
Joined
Mar 8, 2018
Messages
162
Location
Gilbert PA
I would double check and make sure that 1" of spray foam is sufficient for dew point control in your climate zone and 2x6 walls. I suspect in a cool, humid climate like Gilbert, PA you'd need 2" of foam combined with R13 fiberglass.

Good, to know, I will have to check
 
To avoid these ads, REGISTER NOW!

Randy in Maine

Well-known member
Joined
Nov 21, 2010
Messages
2,176
Location
The Beach
I would just not put any pex tubing within about 4' of where you lift will be going. You won't even miss it.

I even left out the 2" of insulation under where my lift posts go and got 2 more inches of concrete (went from 6" to 8" under there).
 

maxpat82

Well-known member
Joined
Dec 9, 2012
Messages
275
I'm in the same situation.
I have calculated a 3'x3'x12" pad where the lift is gonna be.
and pex will go around that pad.

vapour barrier under the foam (I use Hydrofoam for simplicity of pex installation) with fiber reinforce concrete.
No foam under the pad as foam can compress a bit.

For the wall: 2" foam on the whole height on the outside of the building.(Yes you need to install a light concrete panel before putting the parging, and a drip edge on top of it.(Not everyone like that the fondation is about 2,5" bigger then the exterior finishes, but it's have better performance with the foam on the outside.)
 
OP
B

Bradbilt

Well-known member
Joined
Mar 8, 2018
Messages
162
Location
Gilbert PA
I would just not put any pex tubing within about 4' of where you lift will be going. You won't even miss it.

I even left out the 2" of insulation under where my lift posts go and got 2 more inches of concrete (went from 6" to 8" under there).

OK I was kinda winding about just having two empty runners kinda where the lift would go as I am not sure how far forward to put the lift.



I'm in the same situation.
I have calculated a 3'x3'x12" pad where the lift is gonna be.
and pex will go around that pad.

vapour barrier under the foam (I use Hydrofoam for simplicity of pex installation) with fiber reinforce concrete.
No foam under the pad as foam can compress a bit.

For the wall: 2" foam on the whole height on the outside of the building.(Yes you need to install a light concrete panel before putting the parging, and a drip edge on top of it.(Not everyone like that the fondation is about 2,5" bigger then the exterior finishes, but it's have better performance with the foam on the outside.)


I know the lift companies say that for a 15k lift it needs to be on 6" of 3000psi concrete. Dont you think by passing the insulation there and going that deep is kind pointless?

As for the insulation on the poured walls, homes dont do this(at least I have never seen) is this personal preference or is this the new standard?
 
To avoid these ads, REGISTER NOW!
Top Bottom