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Best non tool truck sockets.

Hush 74 1985

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Joined
Jun 3, 2018
Messages
33
Location
Australia
What's better about a koken or Stahwille socket in a practical sense compared to say a quality Taiwan socket by Facom, Gedore, BGS, King Tony, Kincrome or Topul that comply with DIN German standards. How much longer is the service life of these top tier sockets? How will the Koken socket improve or make easier the work your doing? Lots of strong opinions on top shelf top dollar socketry recommendations, I just want to know 'WHY' the Stahlwille socketry will make your working day better? I don't want to know about warranty, just the reasons why the German or Japanese socket is a better product, thus reccomended by so many.



What’s not to love about German Chrome Alloy Steel .[emoji106]



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CR888

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Feb 19, 2017
Messages
1,198
What’s not to love about German Chrome Alloy Steel .[emoji106]

Yes I'm a sucker for German tools too. Mind you I have Stahlwille deep & shallow metric/sae 1/4'' sockets and they are very light weight and the finish is not polished chrome. I have Belzer 3/8 shallow vanadium extra in 6pts and I reckon they are the nicest sockets I'll ever own. Mr.B mentioned the half satin half chrome style sockets which I have a Kincrome set 1/2" 8-32mm 1/4"-1/1/2" 12pt and they are great. Tough clever design with knurling, I have used the **** out of them & they still function as the day I bought them. I just think your mad paying tool truck prices for German/Japan made sockets with what is on the market today. As for Snap On prices forget it here, unless its a certain specific tool their retail price is close to insanity and IMO there are just as good/better socket choices. I want a dual80 1/2" flex head though but I ain't handing over $300 for one. I have over 500 sockets, over 30 ratchets and not one single Snap On tool which kinda suits me fine.
 
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Hush 74 1985

Active member
Joined
Jun 3, 2018
Messages
33
Location
Australia
Yes I'm a sucker for German tools too. Mind you I have Stahlwille deep & shallow metric/sae 1/4'' sockets and they are very light weight and the finish is not polished chrome. I have Belzer 3/8 shallow vanadium extra in 6pts and I reckon they are the nicest sockets I'll ever own. Mr.B mentioned the half satin half chrome style sockets which I have a Kincrome set 1/2" 8-32mm 1/4"-1/1/2" 12pt and they are great. Tough clever design with knurling, I have used the **** out of them & they still function as the day I bought them. I just think your mad paying tool truck prices for German/Japan made sockets with what is on the market today. As for Snap On prices forget it here, unless its a certain specific tool their retail price is close to insanity and IMO there are just as good/better socket choices. I want a dual80 1/2" flex head though but I ain't handing over $300 for one. I have over 500 sockets, over 30 ratchets and not one single Snap On tool which kinda suits me fine.





Having brought some sockets from the store Handtools from Germany. It makes sense for me to buy overseas and have the item shipped to Australia.

Stahlwille 14mm 1/2 was $12 AUD

Rebranded Facom 14mm 1/2 $11.50 AUD

Snap on 14mm 1/2 $25 plus AUD

I am not paying $12 for Taiwan made socket when I get a Stahlwille socket for cheaper and have it shipped to my front door. The only way can I buy Snap On is through EBay. Even then the prices are still pretty steep.


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dnschmidt

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Joined
Oct 3, 2014
Messages
7,279
Location
Phoenix, AZ
TOPTUL without a doubt. But, I'm out of that business now so I've got no horse in this race. Their satin chrome finish and broaching are fantastic. Their tolerances are tighter than most others as well. Eric O. only complaint about TOPTUL'S sockets is that for the rust buckets he works on sometimes the bolts and nuts swell and they will not fit because the tolerances are so tight. To me this is s First World type of problem.
 

nelstomlinson

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Joined
Jul 27, 2009
Messages
649
Location
Interior Alaska
Don't be too hard on me. I think that Snap-On is overpriced. And that there must be good alternatives that gives more value for money. SK and Wright are not the cheapest tools you can get. If I only wanted cheap tools, I would go to Biltema. A Norwegian store similar to Harbour Freight. I would not spend alot of money on shipping, and then get Harbour Freight sockets.

Snap On adds value to justify their price by delivering tools to the shop you work in, and offering credit. If you don't work in a shop and aren't looking for credit, the added value doesn't exist for you. Same story for all the truck brands. They are generally excellent tools, and the price isn't crazy if their business model adds value for you.

SK, Proto, USA-made Williams, Wright are all excellent, and available in the US. Here, you won't go wrong with any. I have no idea what's available in Norway.
 

Professional Tool User

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Joined
Apr 9, 2018
Messages
1,835
Location
BC
If you are from Europe, I would go for the German stuff. Some of the prices for German tools like the Stahlwille wrenches I saw on Amazon.de are actually pretty reasonable. Snap on is overpriced and their stuff isn't neccesarily the best. If you don't have the service that comes with owning Snap on tools like being able to warranty drill bits on the truck, it's not worth it.
 

rossomania

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Joined
Mar 12, 2018
Messages
271
Location
Texas

I can also highly recommend buying Williams tools from toolsdelivered. Good prices and the tools I've purchased have shipped directly from Snap-On Industrial Tools. Customer service issues like warranty claims and lost items are handled directly by Snap-On Industrial Tools and my one claim was processed quickly and professionally and, best of all, hassle free. Just make sure you keep your purchase and shipping invoices for future reference.
 

gtlaw

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Joined
Dec 19, 2011
Messages
666
Toolsdelivered is whats up! I suspect it's just an internet storefront for snap-on industrial. They have the best prices and all my orders have direct shipped from snap-on
 

xin

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Joined
Feb 13, 2017
Messages
697
Location
ARKANSAS - NWA
I just went out to my shop and snapped some pictures of my main grievance with cheap Chinese sockets. I dug the Harbor Freight socket set out of my scrap barrel just to snap these pics. They aren't broken or defective, just crappy enough that I threw them away.

I was working under a truck sometime back using an 18 inch extension and Harbor Freight deep socket to try and start a nut onto a stud. The stud was way up in there and not reachable with anything less than a socket and extension.

I couldn't start the nut onto the stud because of the stupid Chinese socket. Notice how deep the nut slides down into the socket compared to the properly made socket next to it ?



The nut falls nearly 3/4 of an inch into the socket.



So I had to switch to a shallow socket to start the nut, then switch back to the deep socket to tighten it down.

Harbor freight on left, Williams USA on the right. Notice both of these sockets are 3/8" drive 9/16" deep sockets. The Williams is less bulky in all dimensions and it's smartly broached so the fastener is held where it belongs without sliding up into the socket body.



Same



Now, I'm not talking about tool truck stuff here. The entire set of Williams made in USA sockets is 30 dollars. If anyone chooses the 12 dollar Harbor Freight socket set to save money and endure the aggravation because of it, just to save the measly 18 additional dollars, they're quite a tightwad.

Made in USA. SnapOn Industrial Williams socket set. 30 bucks.
http://www.toolsdelivered.com/Willi...e-Tools-3-8-Inch-Drive-Impact-SAE-Socket-Sets

This is just an example, they are available in chrome and impact, deep and shallow, 1/4 3/8 and 1/2 drive. Just make sure to choose the Made in USA option as several earlier posters here pointed out.


The entire reason for the broaching is so when you are in a tight place you can put the nut in the socket and start it on there. The sockets without broaching are worthless to me, I see no need in having a deep well socket with NO broaching.

That one of the reasons I bought first SK then Snapon the broaching. Espicially working on motorcycles - Yamaha/Kawi/Suzuki ect... Williams the Made in USA ones would be an excellent choice, mine are Snapon but bought them some years back and still going strong 23 years later..
 
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Jtels85

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May 3, 2017
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1,519
Location
Ohio
It’s hard to argue with the Williams USA suggestions. Myself, I have Craftsman USA sockets that I purchased a few years before the China switch. There are still many new old stock USA sets available on eBay and can be had cheap.

Never had to warranty a Craftsman socket. They’ve served me well.
 

kythri

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Joined
Jan 3, 2007
Messages
6,330
Location
Lebanon, OR
Toolsdelivered is whats up! I suspect it's just an internet storefront for snap-on industrial. They have the best prices and all my orders have direct shipped from snap-on

They are a drop-shipping dealer for Snap-on Industrial Brands, but they are not Snap-on themselves.

I forget their username, but the gentleman that runs that website is a member here.
 

Wamsutta

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Joined
Jan 8, 2014
Messages
10,877
Location
Amarillo, Texas
They are a drop-shipping dealer for Snap-on Industrial Brands, but they are not Snap-on themselves.

I forget their username, but the gentleman that runs that website is a member here.

Does that mean there's no inventory and no warehouse?
 

driftpin

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Joined
Dec 22, 2016
Messages
11,266
Location
Miami-Dade/Broward Co. Florida
It's great fun to read all the posts, I just read the entire thing. Some people are really-attached to their favorites.

I am not a mechanic. I do have a collection of mostly Craftsman, purchased in the 1970's and '80's. My first set of quality sockets and ratchet were from Wright, it was the famous 'tootsie-roll' soft grip ratchet. I asked my parents for them for my 16th birthday to work on the VW cabriolet beetle they bought new and was then 5 years old. They gave me that and a set of matching open-end wrenches.

The Wright 3/8" socket set has been my everyday set for working on metric things for >50 years. I broke one socket during that time, and I had to disassemble the ratchet wrench and clean it awhile ago because it was not switching from F to R easily, that fixed it.

I have a mongrel mix of tools from all the USA manufacturers, probably. Proto, SK, Williams, Thorsen, Herbrand, whatever-else and yes, Snap-On, though I've never bought a complete SO set of sockets.

Not allowing a nut to descend into a deep socket, what's the value of the deep socket? I use them when the bolt is long-enough to keep the nut from being run-tight, as I'm sure all do. If the nut cannot travel down the deep socket, of what use is it in this circumstance? If I am missing some nugget of knowledge, please tell me.

Sometimes to hold a nut in a a deep socket, I grab a bit of kraft paper from a bag and use that to hold the nut in-place, the scrap of paper on one side of the socket and nut in it. Outside, I'll just grab a blade of grass to do the same thing. Shade-tree engineering at its best!
 
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rossomania

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Joined
Mar 12, 2018
Messages
271
Location
Texas
Does that mean there's no inventory and no warehouse?

It would certainly explain how toolsdelivered keeps their dealer costs way down and product availability up.

Maintaining inventory and a warehouse would just increase costs. Ground shipping to Texas is free and takes about a week.
 

Mr_B

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Joined
Nov 21, 2016
Messages
5,377
Location
Reading
My career has always been aircraft or car repair. I don't have any real experience with equipment or industrial environments, but I don't remember ever needing or wanting a deep broached socket. All of my chrome sockets have always been SnapOn so all I've ever used is shallow broach ones. Those deep broached impacts I posted above were a real pisser to me. Not being able to use them to start nuts or bolts sucked. And anytime the nuts were greasy or dirty they tended to get stuck deep down inside the socket and I had to pull the socket off the impact and bang it against something to dislodge the nut out of the socket.

It's great fun to read all the posts, I just read the entire thing. Some people are really-attached to their favorites.

I am not a mechanic. I do have a collection of mostly Craftsman, purchased in the 1970's and '80's. My first set of quality sockets and ratchet were from Wright, it was the famous 'tootsie-roll soft grip ratchet. I asked my parents for them for my 16th birthday to work on the VW cabriolet beetle they bought new and was then 5 years old. They gave me that and a set of matching open-end wrenches.

The Wright 3/8" socket set has been my everyday set for working on metric things for >50 years. I broke one socket during that time, and I had to disassemble the ratchet wrench and clean it awhile ago because it was not switching from F to R easily, that fixed it.

I have a mongrel mix of tools from all the USA manufacturers, probably. Proto, SK, Williams, Thorsen, Herbrand, whatever-else and yes, Snap-On, though I've never bought a complete SO set of sockets.

Not allowing a nut to descend into a deep socket, what's the value of the deep socket? I use them when the bolt is long-enough to keep the nut from being run-tight, as I'm sure all do. If the nut cannot travel down the deep socket, of what use is it in this circumstance? If I am missing some nugget of knowledge, please tell me.

Sometimes to hold a nut in a a deep socket, I grab a bit of kraft paper from a bag and use that to hold the nut in-place, the scrap of paper on one side of the socket. Outside, I'll just grab a blade of grass to do the same thing. Shade-tree engineering at its best!

In reality deep and shallow broached deep sockets have specific scenario benefits, deep broached most versitile and what out on my trolley and used most, shallow handy though and time and hassle saver when truly needed .
 

5ktq

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Joined
Mar 26, 2018
Messages
194
Deep broach is useful in close quarters, say you have a stud with a nut on it and not much clearance above it.

With a shallow broach as the nut backs off your socket and ratchet will run into the obstruction as you spin it off. With the deep broach it stays in the same spot, only the nut moves.
 

WWheeler

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Joined
Jun 23, 2015
Messages
4,105
Location
Middleofnowhere USA
Deep broach is useful in close quarters, say you have a stud with a nut on it and not much clearance above it.

With a shallow broach as the nut backs off your socket and ratchet will run into the obstruction as you spin it off. With the deep broach it stays in the same spot, only the nut moves.

This is exactly right. I've run into instances where a shallow broached deep socket wouldn't work but a deep broached would, for instance taking the top nut off a shock absorber where there is very little room between the top of the stud and the fender well. A shallow broach will only jam the ratchet into the fender with the nut still a long way to go, and because the damn stud is always rusty/corroded you have to fight it off with a ratchet the whole way. Unless you're removing a shock you just put on you won't be able to just break it free then spin it off by hand.

Depending on how gnarly the threads are you might get by with a ratcheting wrench, or you might tear one up trying, or just have to go at it with a non-ratcheting wrench which with a lot of threads can be exhausting / time consuming. Deep broached deep well makes it easy.
 
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Mr_B

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Nov 21, 2016
Messages
5,377
Location
Reading
^ +2
in my 30yrs of wrenching on cars in light farm machinery deep broached sockets been a major help and not something I would want be without, could be without shallow broached and mid length but not my deep broached deeps .
 

davethorik

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Joined
Sep 14, 2013
Messages
4,992
Location
Norka, Ohio
I have two 7/8 deep well sockets at work for milling setups. Both 1/2 drive, a Mac 6 point shallow broach and a Wright 12 point deep broach. The Mac is my go-to, I hate starting a nut with the Wright, but it has come in handy more than I've thought. I like the reduced diameter near the drive end on the Mac, makes it easier to pull the socket off ratchet, where the Wright is a single diameter cylinder.
 
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