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How to clean feeler gauges without destroying ething

LawnBoy-5247

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As the title says I picked up a old set of Proto feeler gauges and want to clean them and remove the rust from them without destroying the etchings on them what is the best way to go about it?20180608_110306.jpeg1528474322439.jpeg

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WWheeler

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If I really wanted to use them I'd do so as is or maybe wipe them off with a scotch brite pad with a bit of WD40 on it and hope I didn't wipe off the etching in the process. More than likely I'd just get a brand new set for the $10-$15 those Protos likely cost.
 

KnurledNut

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That .03 is Plomb marked. :beer:

Those really arent too bad, other than the damaged ones.
If you plan to use them, id hit them with some WD-40 and a rag to wipe some surface rust off, and add a layer of protection.
IMO avoid any acid baths.
 

APEowner

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Feeler gauges are consumables and that set is trashed. I wouldn't even think about trying to clean them unless you want to display them for some reason.
 

rlitman

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I'd be afraid you then would compromise the true reading and thickness of the blade.

Neither will affect the thickness. We're talking about feeler gauges here and not AA Jo blocks.

However, Evaporust will likely remove the etchings.

My suggestion would be to use a solvent such as acetone to completely degrease the steel. Then rub the rust off the dry steel with 0000 steel wool. Finally, re-oil.
 

larry_g

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Feeler gauges are consumables and that set is trashed. I wouldn't even think about trying to clean them unless you want to display them for some reason.

X2 on this. These are a precision measurement devise. If you don't care about precision then abrade away at them. The corrosion has already rendered them worthless.

lg
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rlitman

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X2 on this. These are a precision measurement devise. If you don't care about precision then abrade away at them. The corrosion has already rendered them worthless.

lg
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You and I have vastly different perspectives on "precision".

Feeler gauges generally come in steps of 0.001 (though a set will often have a 0.0015 blade to cut that in half). That's an enormous step. You can steel wool the blades till you're blue in the face and still not remove a hundredth of that thickness. And even if you managed to remove a tenth (which I posit as damn near impossible), it wouldn't affect the use of the feeler.

Next, we should consider the requirements of a precision ground surface. Low spots are not a problem, so no amount of corrosion pitting will affect the overall thickness. High spots ARE a problem, so once you brush off the rust spots, you're back in business.
 
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LawnBoy-5247

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I understand they are consumables and I have others I can use. I just want to clean these up because they are cool being dual marked Proto and Plomb.

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LawnBoy-5247

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Scotchbrite worked great. Now for all the Proto/Plomb experts out there is there any chance the Plomb gauge is factory or did someone add it in at some point? 20180608_150643.jpg20180608_150732.jpg

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DadsTools

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Scotchbrite worked great. Now for all the Proto/Plomb experts out there is there any chance the Plomb gauge is factory or did someone add it in at some point? 20180608_150643.jpg20180608_150732.jpg

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Post that question in the Vintage Tool Section for the best responses.
 

larry_g

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You and I have vastly different perspectives on "precision".

Feeler gauges generally come in steps of 0.001 (though a set will often have a 0.0015 blade to cut that in half). That's an enormous step. You can steel wool the blades till you're blue in the face and still not remove a hundredth of that thickness. And even if you managed to remove a tenth (which I posit as damn near impossible), it wouldn't affect the use of the feeler.

Next, we should consider the requirements of a precision ground surface. Low spots are not a problem, so no amount of corrosion pitting will affect the overall thickness. High spots ARE a problem, so once you brush off the rust spots, you're back in business.

I spent many years in machine maintenance and a lot of setups were done with feeler gauges. Part of the test is FEEL and if you have a rough surface then the feel goes to hell or the parts being gauged are scratched or abraded if the feeler stock is not smooth. If checking pinpoints then they drop into the divot. There are appropriate places for feeler gauges and their fine finish.
I'm in hope that some of the youngsters that read this learn that rusty old measuring tools are not something that can be brought to new. Some will not see the difference between this and polishing up a rusty set of jo blocks.

lg
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6PTsocket

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I'd be afraid you then would compromise the true reading and thickness of the blade.
The Evaporust absolutely would not. It only removes rust and not sound steel, unlike acid based derust baths. What metal has already turned to rust is gone and whatever innacuracy this causes you are stuck with. The brass brush will not remove good steel either. It is softer than steel but dealing with those thin leaves, possibly depositing brass on the rough surface or creasing a leaf, I would use the Evaporust. To be honest, corroded measuring standards are not something I would bother with.

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rlitman

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I spent many years in machine maintenance and a lot of setups were done with feeler gauges. Part of the test is FEEL and if you have a rough surface then the feel goes to hell or the parts being gauged are scratched or abraded if the feeler stock is not smooth. If checking pinpoints then they drop into the divot. There are appropriate places for feeler gauges and their fine finish.
I'm in hope that some of the youngsters that read this learn that rusty old measuring tools are not something that can be brought to new. Some will not see the difference between this and polishing up a rusty set of jo blocks.

lg
no neat sig line

If you're checking between pinpoints, once the gauge is in, there is nothing to feel. It either passes or doesn't. Once it's in the gap, all you've learned is that it already fit. Anyway, that's what wire gauges were made for. With a wire, the roundness does give you something to feel.

As for abrading parts, this too is BS. Either the steel isn't going to hurt the parts, or you need to be using brass gauges. FYI, the manufacturer's etching is no different than a controlled rust, and leaves a texture identical to what cleaned up rust is like. Yes, this can be abrasive, but again, not to a degree that would matter, when we're talking about the tolerances of the gigantic steps between blades.

The Evaporust absolutely would not. It only removes rust and not sound steel, unlike acid based derust baths. What metal has already turned to rust is gone and whatever innacuracy this causes you are stuck with. The brass brush will not remove good steel either. It is softer than steel but dealing with those thin leaves, possibly depositing brass on the rough surface or creasing a leaf, I would use the Evaporust. To be honest, corroded measuring standards are not something I would bother with.

But the Evaporust will remove the etching, which is also iron oxide. :(

I was referring to using a wire wheel on the blades having an affect on their thickness.

Most steel wheels are probably way too harsh a treatment (though a CAREFUL use of a fine steel wheel should be ok). Personally, I find that scotchbrite is also too abrasive. But a brass wheel will not do any harm.
 
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Provincial

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During the name changeover, the company used up Plomb-marked parts. On larger parts they added the Proto name, resulting in "Dual-Marked" tools as named by collectors. Pendleton was frugal about discarding perfectly good tools because of markings.
 
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