Show us your compressor plumbing and manifolds
- Thread starter beater74
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tlmartin84
Well-known member
I don't, but I can get some.
It is a 50' roll of 1/2" HVAC/Refrigerant coil. It is mounted in 2x4's that I drilled to 5/8" and then ripped down on the table saw to make clamps.
It works well, and I only needed one valve to drain it, instead of several at each low spot like some of the other manifolds.
It is a 50' roll of 1/2" HVAC/Refrigerant coil. It is mounted in 2x4's that I drilled to 5/8" and then ripped down on the table saw to make clamps.
It works well, and I only needed one valve to drain it, instead of several at each low spot like some of the other manifolds.
Ah ok, I thought the clamps were metal and were acting as heat sinks. I always thought about doing something like this with a fan or tank of water, but this is the first time I see someone post it in actual practice.
Very nice!
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Very nice!
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59 wagon man
Well-known member
ok so my training is as a steamfitter/plumber. yrs ago when I worked up north I ran several jobs where we installed new steam heating systems with all kinds of obstacles to overcome due to low headroom, foundations, doorways, etc. steam heat must be kept dry from water or you get water hammer and knock to the extreme. while I applaud many of these manifolds you guys make as excellent craftsmanship ,my humble opinion says you are doing as much harm as good . think about it ,you are forcing the water to continuously be reintroduced to your air. look at the tip tools piping pic and you can see . everything pitches away from the comp. drip the end of the mains and take off the top of the main.
sberry
Banned
I tend to agree. I want it to be driven down to a drip leg. Also, the TP is really for plant and industrial, some aspects of it can be good for a home garage but its really for air beyond type systems. Not everything we see at work or in a GM plant applies well at home.
The one above with 2 units is better, feeds from the top and drives any water down.
The one above with 2 units is better, feeds from the top and drives any water down.
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Oldbear
Well-known member
I'd be accused of having a still in the corner of my shop... maybe I could hide one in a fake air compressor...
tlmartin84
Well-known member
That's where I got the idea to do a coil............
Lelandwelds
Well-known member
Anyone using PEX? Its basically the same plastic used for gas pipelines and launching display fireworks. I watched a 3 inch mortar ignited upside down. It was quite an explosion. The tube barely split. No shrapnel.
I am thinking copper near the compressor and mostly PEX elsewhere. Copper or black iron tees and crosses for drops , etc after the water is removed. The aluminum is nice but the fittings are expensive. Would PEX work well if yanked on for years like station drops always are?
I use to install PE-AL-PE lines for vets and animal hospitals. It worked great but I hate the crooked lines.
I am thinking copper near the compressor and mostly PEX elsewhere. Copper or black iron tees and crosses for drops , etc after the water is removed. The aluminum is nice but the fittings are expensive. Would PEX work well if yanked on for years like station drops always are?
I use to install PE-AL-PE lines for vets and animal hospitals. It worked great but I hate the crooked lines.
HenryAZ
MEMBER EMERITUS
Car Enthusiast
New member
So I have a question. Where can I read up on how to set up a compressor system? I have google searched the he'll out of it and can never find anything that really tells me how to design it. Maybe I am not using the correct search terms and you guys can point me in the right direction.
laser3kw
Well-known member
welcome aboard!
please start with what your goals are and what you currently have. Remember, when planning an air compressor system, plan for the future needs and not your current needs. Too many people start with "just inflating tires and blowing off the lawn mower" and two years later they have every air tool imaginable and to small of a compressor. A paint system requires different needs than a tool system.
Car Enthusiast
New member
Personal workshop really. I close on a house on Thursday with an attached two car. I want it to be able to handle a temporary paint booth later on. I have a line on a 220v 60gallon speedaire compressor that I THINK will handle anything I would need but that is the thing. I do not know for sure. I would like to run hard lines through the ceiling that drop down.
Richard D
Well-known member
What, no PVC???
Stuart in MN
Well-known member
Just stop it. Repeating that lame joke every single time air piping is discussed doesn't make it funny.
laser3kw
Well-known member
check the cmf capacity. I would look for something in the 13 ~15 cfm - the more the better .
As far as piping, there are several nice examples in this thread alone. `
larry4406
Well-known member
Slodat - can you provide more details on soft start valve and enabling the compressor control circuit via the control switch? Pictures and part numbers would be nice.
LS6 Tommy
Well-known member
Is this what you are looking for?
DOOD! Replace your garage door springs before they snap and beat the **** out of something or somebody!!
Tommy
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PhantomEB
Well-known member
Fairly simple system. 3/4 main line with 1/2 drop.
Kaeser 35CFM canister and E9 Filter, Norgren 1/2 Reg.
Two Hankison Filters 3/4 port post Outlet.
Where the elbow leaves the Reg, Iam gonna install a T and run a full 1/2 outlet chuck to power a Hungary 3/4 gun.
Thanks! That pic just cleared up a conundrum I been thinking about. I wanted to stick a reel purchased somewhere where it wasn’t sticking out.. now it’s going up high next to the big door for when it needs to be used. Will have a ball valve in line to not collect much air when not necessary.
Spdfreak91
Well-known member
I just bought a 60 gallon compressor for VERY occasional home use, i was going to come right out of the side with the dryer and regulator, i know they say 10' at least but I have no room and i'm not going to use this often any tips or tricks/pics to help me out?
I was thinking something like this ?
https://www.miltonindustries.com/1-2-fr-piggyback.html
I was thinking something like this ?
https://www.miltonindustries.com/1-2-fr-piggyback.html
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That is cool. Got rid of the parallel surfaces on the top.
jonwrong
Member
Thanks for the inspiration. I did something similar. I tried the wood route but ended up using unistrut.
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MrSurly
Well-known member
Re-lighting a dormant thread to include mine in the examples:
After-cooler made from industrial hydraulic oil cooler, with home built catch can. (Yes, shown with rigid curved pipe that gets replaced with flex)
After-cooler made from industrial hydraulic oil cooler, with home built catch can. (Yes, shown with rigid curved pipe that gets replaced with flex)
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slodat
ALLIANCE MEMBER
Just saw this.. Soft Start Valve came from Automation Direct. The soft start valve is and the compressor motor magnetic starters coils are both 120vac. I switch the compressor control circuit through my lighting contractor. This means the compressor only runs when the shop lights are on.. aka when I’m in the shop. The soft start is controlled by a hand switch at the front door. If I want to depressurize the air header I turn the switch off. This is a lot more useful than one might thing. The soft start feature means it doesn’t slam full air pressure. The link above has great info on how it works. I also have a (smaller) soft start on my PLC controlled pneumatic automated dust collection blast gates.
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