let's see your craftsman block grinders

[Outlawmws]

I would't think it to be too difficult.

Curious if anyone thinks this light could be saved?

Thanks~

 

[lafester]

I would't think it to be too difficult.

Awesome. Any idea how you would do it? Or are you thinking just wire it to be on when the grinder is on.

 

[Outlawmws]

Wiring it is easy. The trick will be reattaching the flex neck to the socket. The pic is not good enough to spell out details...

 

[lafester]

Wiring it is easy. The trick will be reattaching the flex neck to the socket. The pic is not good enough to spell out details...

I was mostly worried about the missing switch. Yeah the pic is not great but it's the best I have at the moment.

 

[Outlawmws]

I don't think the switch is missing; just the knob, and those are an easy replace.

 

[lafester]

I don't think the switch is missing; just the knob, and those are an easy replace.

That's good to hear. Never tried to repair a lamp before.

 

[whateg01]

I would have to go out and look at one of mine to be sure, but I'd think the guts of the lamp are fairly common off-the-shelf type parts. If it's just a knob, that's even better!

Dave

 

[lafester]

Any help on what parts to use would be awesome. This was a weird find and am getting it shipped after searching for months for a 60's 1/2 hp. It's complete and not abused but ugly paint and the glass is gone from the shields, and of course the lamp situation. Will post more once I have it in hand.

I would have to go out and look at one of mine to be sure, but I'd think the guts of the lamp are fairly common off-the-shelf type parts. If it's just a knob, that's even better!

Dave

 

[torqueman2002]

Curious if anyone thinks this light could be saved?

Thanks~

UPDATE
Somehow I missed the previous posts. To my eye, the socket base is broken. I have a Block with a lamp like that and it attaches to the goose neck on the side of the lamp socket at a 90 degree angle. All other Block lamps attach at the bottom of the socket.

Another thought after looking at my own pictures.

Notice the threads on the end of the lamp socket in the 2nd and 3rd pictures. They are there for the metal shade to thread onto.

So, a better choice may be to have the lamp repaired, because I doubt you will find a new one with the lamp shade threads. But, you don't know until you try.
-----------------------

It is worth a try.

I think a welder can braze or silver solder it.

If originality is not a concern. --> https://www.grandbrass.com/

Best of luck. Let us know how you make out.

Pictures of a 3/4-HP m-397.19670

 

[torqueman2002]

Wait... there are METAL lampshades? How do you tell?
Always learning something new.

The black plastic lamp shade covers are still available from: https://www.searspartsdirect.com/part-number/4971958/0009/397.html

$3.15 + shipping.

They attach to a metal shade that has a mounting boss & hole for the plastic cover. It's this metal shade that is discontinued.

I gave up trying to adapt another metal shade. The shape was just too different for my meager tin-knocker skills.

 

[lafester]

Yeah, repairing is the goal here. I'll get the base on to the neck somehow but my main concern is the switch/knob. If I have to I'll just wire it to come on with the grinder but I would much rather have a switch.

UPDATE
Somehow I missed the previous posts. To my eye, the socket base is broken. I have a Block with a lamp like that and it attaches to the goose neck on the side of the lamp socket at a 90 degree angle. All other Block lamps attach at the bottom of the socket.

Another thought after looking at my own pictures.

Notice the threads on the end of the lamp socket in the 2nd and 3rd pictures. They are there for the metal shade to thread onto.

So, a better choice may be to have the lamp repaired, because I doubt you will find a new one with the lamp shade threads. But, you don't know until you try.
-----------------------

It is worth a try.

I think a welder can braze or silver solder it.

If originality is not a concern. --> https://www.grandbrass.com/

Best of luck. Let us know how you make out.

 

[torqueman2002]

Yeah, repairing is the goal here. I'll get the base on to the neck somehow but my main concern is the switch/knob. If I have to I'll just wire it to come on with the grinder but I would much rather have a switch.

It's possible the switch is intact and working, with the stem of the switch just waiting for a replacement knob.

The socket assemblies do come apart with gentle persuasion.

If you post pictures, we'll be able to guide the 'rescue'.

Mostly the wiring, even on these 50+ year old Blocks, is still flexible and usable. Saving the trouble of running new lamp cord up the goose neck and crimping on new terminals.

I like to clean and tighten the old terminals, when I use the original hardware.

 

[lafester]

Ok so here is a pic of the grinder. I got it from a place called Used tools and Equipment in New York. http://used-tools-equipment.com/ They seem to be legit but you never know these days.

We will find out on tuesday what it really looks like but hopefully this should be an easy restore.

 

[ssdave]

So, if I was to try to sell one of these in the classifieds here, what is a reasonable willing buyer and seller price? Not a you **** garage sale find price? I found an excellent condition 1/2 hp one last week at an estate sale, complete down to the cooling dip tray, light, shields and even original 1969 manual. I definitely don't need it, I have better and more well liked ones already.

 

[bubinga]

So, if I was to try to sell one of these in the classifieds here, what is a reasonable willing buyer and seller price? Not a you **** garage sale find price? I found an excellent condition 1/2 hp one last week at an estate sale, complete down to the cooling dip tray, light, shields and even original 1969 manual. I definitely don't need it, I have better and more well liked ones already.

I'd say about $50.00-$60.00 plus shipping.

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[torqueman2002]

I'd say about $50.00-$60.00 plus shipping.

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That's the price range I like to buy in for a 1/2-HP Block.

Now shipping.
When FedEx packs, the items are 100% covered for damage. If the customer packs, then FedEx disavows coverage for damage during shipping.

I've shipped dozens of Blocks with FedEx, with only one claim for a bent arbor shaft. FedEx paid, even-though the recipient did not return the grinder for inspection.

The buyer got a full refund (including shipping), kept and repaired the Block, and I still had my original payment.

Just something to consider.

 

[bubinga]

That's the price range I like to buy in for a 1/2-HP Block.

Now shipping.
When FedEx packs, the items are 100% covered for damage. If the customer packs, then FedEx disavows coverage for damage during shipping.

I've shipped dozens of Blocks with FedEx, with only one claim for a bent arbor shaft. FedEx paid, even-though the recipient did not return the grinder for inspection.

The buyer got a full refund (including shipping), kept and repaired the Block, and I still had my original payment.

Just something to consider.

Win/Win

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[EOC_Jason]

I was thinking around the +/-$50 range too, plus shipping...

 

[ProGun3400]

Drove up to McHenry/Lake County line to purchase this one that was listed on Chicago's Craigslist. The fellow selling it said he posted it for sale around 2am & when he woke up the next morning at 7, he had several inquiries on it. I contacted him, asked if I could drive up & look it over. Here it is (amongst my mess) still attached to the stand with the square nut/bolts......

 

[lafester]

How much do they charge to pack one up?
I've shipped a couple for around $36 and they seem to be insured?

That's the price range I like to buy in for a 1/2-HP Block.

Now shipping.
When FedEx packs, the items are 100% covered for damage. If the customer packs, then FedEx disavows coverage for damage during shipping.

I've shipped dozens of Blocks with FedEx, with only one claim for a bent arbor shaft. FedEx paid, even-though the recipient did not return the grinder for inspection.

The buyer got a full refund (including shipping), kept and repaired the Block, and I still had my original payment.

Just something to consider.

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[torqueman2002]

How much do they charge to pack one up?
I've shipped a couple for around $36 and they seem to be insured?

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FedEx, in my experience, has not been able to give quotes on packing and shipping, prior to actually boxing up the grinders.

Also, it seems there is a slight variation ($5-$10) depending upon which 'agent' does the packing. I believe it comes down to their experience and selection of materials: box size, double walled, amount of packing material, ....And of course weight, size, and distance.

$36 seems about right for a 1/4 or 1/3HP Block.

http://www.fedex.com/cm/shippingguide/terms/#10
19. LIABILITIES NOT ASSUMED
u) damage arising from any failure by the Sender to pack the material shipped in a manner adequate to protect it from damage, adequacy being assessed in the reasonable determination of FedEx having regard to handling normally to be expected in the hands of a carrier such as FedEx.

 

[Waltrip88]

Picked up a 1 hp block this morning.


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[bczygan]

On Detroit CL:

https://detroit.craigslist.org/mcb/tls/d/jet-bench-grinder/6645534987.html


Bill

 

[lafester]

No way that awesome Jet grinder is still available.
You detroit guys are dropping the ball.

 

[torqueman2002]

Picked up a 1 hp block this morning.


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[torqueman2002]

A HD 1/2-HP Block in the Detroit Metro area popped-up on CL about an hour ago.

https://detroit.craigslist.org/mcb/tls/6651269721.html

These guys are getting pricey.

 

[torqueman2002]

No way that awesome Jet grinder is still available.
You detroit guys are dropping the ball.

Right?!!?


Come on guys! I can't do it all by myself.

 

[lafester]

I would grab it if it were in my area.
Those old ones just don't show up at all.

Would be much better with a real pedestal though!

A HD 1/2-HP Block in the Detroit Metro area popped-up on CL about an hour ago.

These guys are getting pricey.

 

[ProGun3400]

Very nice......

 

[lafester]

Ok It's here!

Take a look at this awesome packing job:

And the crack they hid with the power cord:

Hats off to UPS for delivering with only that base piece poking though a little.

Besides the crack, the rest seems ok so far. The arbor shaft looks good and my brief look at the windings did not show any burning. I still have to get the band off for a good look at the motor.

Curious about the shields as they are larger then my other ones. Also it's dated 1968 but has the old style lamp. The lamp switch works fine btw, just missing the knob.

I'll start a thread for this one since I will have a ton of pics going forward.

Price was $35 and $55 shipping, which without the cracked guard I would be fine with.

 

[whateg01]

Ok It's here!

Take a look at this awesome packing job:

...
And the crack they hid with the power cord:

...

Hats off to UPS for delivering with only that base piece poking though a little.

Besides the crack, the rest seems ok so far. The arbor shaft looks good and my brief look at the windings did not show any burning. I still have to get the band off for a good look at the motor.

Curious about the shields as they are larger then my other ones. Also it's dated 1968 but has the old style lamp. The lamp switch works fine btw, just missing the knob.

I'll start a thread for this one since I will have a ton of pics going forward.

Price was $35 and $55 shipping, which without the cracked guard I would be fine with.

Have you complained to them? Do you think it was cracked before they shipped it? Or did it happen because of the poor packaging?

If it makes you feel any better, the FBI sent a piece of equipment to us for calibration one time. Imagine taking an old tube TV and putting it into a box that was too small, but would fit if you bent the walls of the box a bit. Now, imagine taking a $50k TV and doing the same, then trusting UPS to get it here in one piece. Spoiler alert: it didn't make it in one piece.

When I called the user of the equipment and sent him photos, he said he'd have a talk with somebody about it.

Dave

 

[lafester]

Nah it would have shown damage to the box and other parts if it had been dropped hard enough to make that crack. Yeah I sent them a complaint but I'm not going to work too hard for $20. I probably would have bought it anyway, I just hate that they intentionally hid it.

Have you complained to them? Do you think it was cracked before they shipped it? Or did it happen because of the poor packaging?

If it makes you feel any better, the FBI sent a piece of equipment to us for calibration one time. Imagine taking an old tube TV and putting it into a box that was too small, but would fit if you bent the walls of the box a bit. Now, imagine taking a $50k TV and doing the same, then trusting UPS to get it here in one piece. Spoiler alert: it didn't make it in one piece.

When I called the user of the equipment and sent him photos, he said he'd have a talk with somebody about it.

Dave

 

[emeraldcoupe]

So, if I was to try to sell one of these in the classifieds here, what is a reasonable willing buyer and seller price? Not a you **** garage sale find price? I found an excellent condition 1/2 hp one last week at an estate sale, complete down to the cooling dip tray, light, shields and even original 1969 manual. I definitely don't need it, I have better and more well liked ones already.

I just sold a nice 1/3 hp for $50

 

[American Iron]

It's been a great month for "wants" at estate and local sales. Two week ago found my first B&D Original Aluminum Made in England Workmate and now this past weekend not one but two 1/2 hp Craftsman Block Grinders. They are both dirty and need of some TLC but I'm happy to find even one. The grinder on the right is a 397.19340 (76-78?) and spins up great. Lots of power. Only issues are the dirt and grime and the faded label. Light works and still has the rubber mounting feet.
The other is a 397.19430 (mid 1970's?) It has a bad arbor bearing but still spins OK. Came with the well used grinding attachment as well. Bad bearing is on the same side as the grinding attachment. Probably too much grit on that side. Both for 30$. Couldn't pass them up.

Question when did they stop putting dates on the bases.?

 

[Outlawmws]

Bering probably went bad due to the extra loading that side got if it was used exclusively for sharpening.

 

[notlob]

Very nice 1/2hp pre-block for sale in North SF Bay - $65.

I hope someone here buys it - I'd be all over this if I had room.

https://sfbay.craigslist.org/nby/tls/d/craftsman-1-2-hp-bench-grinder/6656483064.html

No affiliation blah...

 

[lafester]

Very nice 1/2hp pre-block for sale in North SF Bay - $65.

I hope someone here buys it - I'd be all over this if I had room.

That is nice. Who wants to ship it to me? All that cast iron... damn that would cost a fortune.

 

[Negen]

That is nice. Who wants to ship it to me? All that cast iron... damn that would cost a fortune.

Isn't cast aluminum? Mine is dated 69 and it's aluminium ? What years were they made of iron?

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[lafester]

I think around 1965 they switched to aluminum and moved the switch up so they could sell the small quench trays.

Isn't cast aluminum? Mine is dated 69 and it's aluminium ? What years were they made of iron?

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[exmaxima1]

I think around 1965 they switched to aluminum and moved the switch up so they could sell the small quench trays.

The motor laminations are MUCH larger on the pre-block grinders, and the switch would never fit in the higher position. When they changed to the alloy versions, the motor shrunk and left lots of room to move the switch.