PVC pipe question, need to debond

[TT_Vert]

So I am removing a double bowl sink and replacing w/a single. The original installer glued everything and I don't even have enough of a stub (I don't think) to slip anything over what is there. I would just cap the one if it wasn't exactly in the way of where the drain is going to be. What would you guys do in this situation? Taking the cabinet out to run new PVC is not an option.

Thanks much

Dave

 

[GarageGuy89]

Had this same scenario for our kitchen sink. Ended up using a rubber boot/coupler. Just make sure its a tight fit.

 

[TT_Vert]

I've really got nowhere for a coupler. After I hack off that Y fitting I'm going to have maybe 1/4" of material there. No way a coupler will work there. I'm googling and it seems I can heat the glue to debond it. Hows the success rate there? Someone used a hole saw they heated to bring it all to a consistent temp and then removed. May also try that.

Dave

 

[The Cobbler]

cut the Y off, leaving the hub around it . get a rubber coupling that will slip over that ,\probably 2"x1-1/2" would tighten on there.
or go into the wall and cut and replace the t etc/
you can also buy bits that will ream out the pipe from the hub. probably cost about $20 for 1-1/2"

 

[HeelSpur]

I've cut the hubs off many a time but its time consuming.
Cut off the fitting right at the hub and make cuts with a hack saw down to the pipe and slowly chisel off. I'd like to know of a better way myself.

 

[nmk_61802]

If you have a Menards near by this:

https://www.menards.com/main/plumbi...-1-2-saver-reamer/j44150m/p-1444433581464.htm

 

[Showkey]

^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^Learned something today ^^^^^^^^^^^^^

 

[Falcon67]

Cap and attach an air compressor. Oh wait, no control over where PVC separation occurs. NM.

That reamer looks like a cool tool. Have to remember that.

 

[Leaflessshadetree]

Cut the pipe at the fitting and ream out the fitting.
I believe the tool is usually called a fitting saver (or something like that). The cheap tools work OK for one time or occasional use.

 

[MoonRise]

Yup, as said you cut the pipe at the fitting and then use the power reamer to remove the pipe remains that are still glued inside the fitting.

Works great. Clean out the goo, wipe out the fitting well with some rags, prime and solvent glue back together with some new pipe pieces. Done. BTDT.

Oh, start the drill (with the reamer bit in it) slowly and really try to keep the reamer centered in the fitting. I also like to run a chamfering tool around the cut pipe end that is in the fitting to smooth it out a little and help me get the reamer bit centered a little better than just slamming the spinning bit into a piece of pipe at 'high' speed and hoping for the best.

 

[TT_Vert]

Heated a socket w/ my torch and put it in as I didn't have a hole saw that size. Was able to get it warm enough to debond the glue. Got it out cleanly so I'm good. Thanks much guys

Dave

 

[rlitman]

Heated a socket w/ my torch and put it in as I didn't have a hole saw that size. Was able to get it warm enough to debond the glue. Got it out cleanly so I'm good. Thanks much guys

Dave

Well done. I only just saw this now, but for future reference, I use a heat gun to soften the glue. A screwdriver and pliers then can pick out the pieces you need to remove.

 

[6768rogues]

If you have a Menards near by this:

https://www.menards.com/main/plumbi...-1-2-saver-reamer/j44150m/p-1444433581464.htm

I like that. I am going to buy one even though I don't have a use right now.

 

[TT_Vert]

Well done. I only just saw this now, but for future reference, I use a heat gun to soften the glue. A screwdriver and pliers then can pick out the pieces you need to remove.

Thanks I considered that but I didn't want to heat the fitting I need to retain tooo much and oblong it in any way.

 

[Jackfre]

Get a multi tool and cut the cabinet back a few inches to either side opening things up so you can work on it. Cut the pipe as far back as you need to and replace the drain and vent pipe. Get “no-stop” couplings or take a half round file and file the stops out of a standard coupling. Or, use no-hub couplings. Once you have done this use a piece of 1/4” tempered hard board to repair the cabinet back. So you should need two coupling, 1-San tee and a 1 1/2” trap adapter. The vent is probably 1 1/2” and the waste 2”.

 

[GarageGuy89]

Heated a socket w/ my torch and put it in as I didn't have a hole saw that size. Was able to get it warm enough to debond the glue. Got it out cleanly so I'm good. Thanks much guys

Dave

Can you post pics, so others can see how it turned out. Still not clear on where the tie in is...

 

[rlitman]

Thanks I considered that but I didn't want to heat the fitting I need to retain tooo much and oblong it in any way.

While PVC will get soft when you heat it, it's pretty springy, so it will return to its natural shape so long as you're not holding it in an oblong shape as it cools down. Just don't try to glue it while it's still hot.

 

[TT_Vert]

Yeah I wasn't sure so I didn't chance it. Anyway, here is the final product per request.

 

[The Cobbler]

nice!

 

[LS6 Tommy]

If you have a Menards near by this:

https://www.menards.com/main/plumbi...-1-2-saver-reamer/j44150m/p-1444433581464.htm

X2. Saved a lot of aggravation with the "pro" version of that. This is the kit we had at my last job:

https://www.reedmfgco.com/en/produc...m-extreme-plastic-pipe-fitting-reamers/pprk6/

Not cheap, but it pays for itself pretty quickly when you do as much repairs and retrofits we did.

Tommy

 

[flat350]

Sometimes it helps to put a hose clamp around the outside of the fitting hub that your'e trying to save,it reduces the chance that the hub will crack.

 

[TT_Vert]

Thanks for the tips guys.

 

[rlitman]

Sometimes it helps to put a hose clamp around the outside of the fitting hub that your'e trying to save,it reduces the chance that the hub will crack.

I must remember that one. Good suggestion!

 

[SALIV8]

Good job. learned new tricks.

 

[Flail]

For abs I’ve used 2 hole saws on one arbor. Smaller hole saw fits inside the inner pipe and works as a guide. The larger hole saw matches outside diameter of the pipe you are cutting out. Standard arbor won’t have enough thread to get both hole saws on so bought a bolt and cut the head off. This provides enough thread to nest the hole saws inside each other.

 

[TT_Vert]

BTW, had to debond more pipes today and I didn't want to have to wait to heat a socket so I went and bought that tool and all I can say is that that tool is freaking amazing!! It cleaned out everything in less than 30 seconds. I probably won't use it again but I can appreciate a well designed tool. And now I know what that tool is if it ever comes up in conversation Thanks again guys.

 

[gml1998]

If you have a Menards near by this:

https://www.menards.com/main/plumbi...-1-2-saver-reamer/j44150m/p-1444433581464.htm

These work very well

 

[rburke65]

Thanks TT Vert.....ya taught me something today with the torch. And, for th3 cost of that tool everyone should own one.

 

[GMCGarage]

So I am removing a double bowl sink and replacing w/a single. The original installer glued everything and I don't even have enough of a stub (I don't think) to slip anything over what is there. I would just cap the one if it wasn't exactly in the way of where the drain is going to be. What would you guys do in this situation? Taking the cabinet out to run new PVC is not an option.

Thanks much

Dave

heat it up with a heat gun, it works. Then re-glue.