Vintage Reed Vice pickup.

[AngryBeaver]

Alright, got all the heavy rust off, and and most of the grime. Will be picking up some wire wheel attachments for my Dremel to get to the tough spots. I also picked up some evaporust, which will be nice, because the vise has already flash rusted due to the humidity. I want to gather what I need, in order to be the humidity once I evaporust the vise.

1. Vise was Originally Black correct? What paint and Primer would you recommend?
2. No painting the sliding portions correct?
3. What do I coat the unseen inside parts with, like inside slider, boiled linseed oil?
4. I have seen some leave the clamp/jaw part raw? Should i do that or paint?
5. Is the handle to be painted black too? Do I leave sliding part of the handle raw because it will scratch?

Just want to gather the supplies I need to complete.

Thanks!

k

Great score. your vise was made in the likely late 30's. there was a couple colors that were original back then like olive green or a flat black. its your vise, paint it whatever color you want.

I would not paint the handle, slide or the jaws. when i use Hammerite brand paints, they are specifically made not to use primer. they have ingredients that latch on to porous surfaces and work better than with primer. some of the rustleoum paints are this way. most guys use a quality self etching primer.

when I redo a vise, I try to paint the unsee sides if possible. if not, when i lube it up with Fluid film, it'll be fine. most weren't painted inside the slide or underneath when new and they've lasted 100+ years soo.

heres some color options for you. just depends on what you want or what you like. the craftsman (actually a reed 203-1/2) is hammerlite dark blue. the middle reed 104R is a rustoleum cobalt blue metallic, the reed 214 on the left is rustoleum hammered black and the prentiss is hammerlite mid green. the hammered blacks are more of a dark charcoal grey than actual black. the snap on wilton that is super gloss black is a rustoleum appliance gloss black epoxy paint. and the little wilton is a candy apple red rustoleum.

 

[Ksem89]

Great score. your vise was made in the likely late 30's. there was a couple colors that were original back then like olive green or a flat black. its your vise, paint it whatever color you want.

I would not paint the handle, slide or the jaws. when i use Hammerite brand paints, they are specifically made not to use primer. they have ingredients that latch on to porous surfaces and work better than with primer. some of the rustleoum paints are this way. most guys use a quality self etching primer.

when I redo a vise, I try to paint the unsee sides if possible. if not, when i lube it up with Fluid film, it'll be fine. most weren't painted inside the slide or underneath when new and they've lasted 100+ years soo.

heres some color options for you. just depends on what you want or what you like. the craftsman (actually a reed 203-1/2) is hammerlite dark blue. the middle reed 104R is a rustoleum cobalt blue metallic, the reed 214 on the left is rustoleum hammered black and the prentiss is hammerlite mid green. the hammered blacks are more of a dark charcoal grey than actual black. the snap on wilton that is super gloss black is a rustoleum appliance gloss black epoxy paint. and the little wilton is a candy apple red rustoleum.

Wow great info thanks!!

Sounds like its between Rustoleum hammered black or Hammerite black.

k

 

[Fierljeppen]

Great score. your vise was made in the likely late 30's.

Very curious, what helped you determine it is from the late 1930's?

 

[EOC_Jason]

Style changeover from the round nose to flat nose...

 

[Fierljeppen]

Style changeover from the round nose to flat nose...

Thanks for the response! I'm still confused though. The round nose style goes back to 1908. Is there another style feature that distinguishes it to be from the late 1930's?

 

[AngryBeaver]

Very curious, what helped you determine it is from the late 1930's?

Style changeover from the round nose to flat nose...

Thanks for the response! I'm still confused though. The round nose style goes back to 1908. Is there another style feature that distinguishes it to be from the late 1930's?

Merely a guess as to the 30's.

but theres a couple key indicators. All the patent date reeds were up until the later 20's from what Ive seen and date stamps that no one wants to acknowledge. patents expired after 25 years and alot of mid 20's vises had the the 1908, 1912, 1916 dates on them. no one knows for sure how long those patent dates were used on the castings. the newest old style reed Ive have was a 1924 104-1/2. its still had the patent dates.

the lip on the dynamic that overhangs the spindle is a tag longer on the later models right before the split nut change. the split nuts were all R's and not only was the split nut different, the lock down went to a tapered seat. this is a flat seat lock down like the older ones. So, no patent dates, more overhang on the spindle "guard" or lip, so in my best guess its a later first generation build.

I guarantee there is a date stamped on it that will be almost impossible to see if a wire wheel is taken to it. it shows up pretty easy when an E tank is used to clean them up. this date should be on both the static and dynamic on the left hand side.

 

[bubinga]

Is it likely if I "E tanked" my 703 Reed it would remove the olive green OEM paint?

 

[lakeview2628]

Is it likely if I "E tanked" my 703 Reed it would remove the olive green OEM paint?

I have olive green paint on a similar period Reed Vise that I plan on fixing up and it is lead based paint. I tested it with a 3M lead tester. Electrolysis will likely remove the paint and contaminate your tank. Use a chemical paint stripper and don't sand or wire wheel it.

 

[bubinga]

I have olive green paint on a similar period Reed Vise that I plan on fixing up and it is lead based paint. I tested it with a 3M lead tester. Electrolysis will likely remove the paint and contaminate your tank. Use a chemical paint stripper and don't sand or wire wheel it.

Oh OK, Thank You!
Actually the paint's in pretty good shape, I just like the look of metal after electrolysis, after it's cleaned up.
I actually Didn't want to remove the paint.
Thanks again!

 

[Fierljeppen]

Merely a guess as to the 30's.

but theres a couple key indicators. All the patent date reeds were up until the later 20's from what Ive seen and date stamps that no one wants to acknowledge. patents expired after 25 years and alot of mid 20's vises had the the 1908, 1912, 1916 dates on them. no one knows for sure how long those patent dates were used on the castings. the newest old style reed Ive have was a 1924 104-1/2. its still had the patent dates.

the lip on the dynamic that overhangs the spindle is a tag longer on the later models right before the split nut change. the split nuts were all R's and not only was the split nut different, the lock down went to a tapered seat. this is a flat seat lock down like the older ones. So, no patent dates, more overhang on the spindle "guard" or lip, so in my best guess its a later first generation build.

I guarantee there is a date stamped on it that will be almost impossible to see if a wire wheel is taken to it. it shows up pretty easy when an E tank is used to clean them up. this date should be on both the static and dynamic on the left hand side.

Thanks! You answered my question and I've copied your notes for future reference.

 

[ganymede]

Merely a guess as to the 30's.
....

Possibly but I'd guess early to mid 30's.
Patent for the adjustable retaining pin (for the main nut) was filed in early 36 and the drawings show an adjustable split nut collar but wih older round shaped hub.

 

[EOC_Jason]

Oh that's right, brain fart... They added the split nut in the front and still had the round nose for a while before going to the flat nose (and replaceable jaws).

 

[Ksem89]

I know its been a while!

Almost have a finished product! Very close.

k

 

[Ksem89]

Got her done! Very happy with how it turned out. Brought it back to old glory.

Thanks all for your help!!

k

 

[bubinga]

Looks Great Nice Job!

 

[Ksem89]

Noticed some little numbers on the slide too. Is this where they put pat. numbers?

k

 

[Ksem89]

^^^ anyone have an idea of what may be stamped into the top of the slide?

Also, I did use paste wax as recommended on the un painted steal, slide, handles etc. And there was already some light flash rusting that appears.

I went ahead and put 3 in 1 oil on the raw areas. Its worked well for me in the past and dries after a while.

Thanks

k

 

[Ksem89]

Update-

Finally picked up the new collar that my brother Machined for me. Perfect, and the vise is 100%

Thanks for the help all

k

 

[bubinga]

Update-

Finally picked up the new collar that my brother Machined for me. Perfect, and the vise is 100%

Thanks for the help all

k

Good Job!!

 

[F111C]

patents expired after 25 year.

Actually at that time the Patent protection time was only 17 years.

Cheers
Jim

 

[thin_concrete]

Update-

Finally picked up the new collar that my brother Machined for me. Perfect, and the vise is 100%

Thanks for the help all

k

That’s awesome!

 

[txlonghorn1989]

A free Reed 205 in good working order just needing some cleanup and greasing???

Yes, YOU do officially ****!!!

Great find! Congrats!

 

[Ksem89]

A free Reed 205 in good working order just needing some cleanup and greasing???

Yes, YOU do officially ****!!!

Great find! Congrats!

Thanks!!! Its a beast! Got lucky for sure.

k