Table saw recomendations

[Deception]

Im looking to get a table saw, have never owned one before.. would mostly be used in garage or driveway, for woodworking /furniture projects
sometimes inside when im renovating parts of my house.

What do you guys recommend? I already have the Dewalt Sliding miter saw DWS780 & stand. So I was looking at Dewalt table saws like this, but Im open to other brands.

32" rip with rolling stand
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00F2CGXGG/?tag=atomicindus08-20

24" rip with stand
https://www.homedepot.com/p/DEWALT-...H=REC-_-rv_search_plp_rr-_-NA-_-303207818-_-N

 

[lilredex]

For less than $100 you can find 10" saws with side wings and a 1 HP+ motor. Don't discount those imports either.

Here is mine with an upgraded motor...

 

[shawhite]

Bosch 4100-09 or the new 4100-10. I prefer Bosch due to the gravity rise stand and their fence system is better than most in my opinion

 

[jonshonda]

Find an old craftsman 113.xxxx table saw. They sold thousands of them, and therefore you can find lots of info and videos and accessorize. You will not want to bring your table saw into your house, unless you love sweeping up sawdust for years to come.

 

[Firebrick43]

Define furniture projects. Modern plywood case work and lightweight projects a job saw will be fine. If you fancy arts and crafts or other heavy furniture out of solid heavy oak or solid maple then something much heavier is going to give your better results.

 

[driftpin]

C'mon, a venerable Powermatic model 66 with a biesmeyer fence should be available at a reasonable price somewhere by him.

 

[PugetDude]

Bosch 4100-09 or the new 4100-10. I prefer Bosch due to the gravity rise stand and their fence system is better than most in my opinion

^^+1 on this^^

I replaced my old Craftsman saw with the Bosch 4100; plenty of power, love the fence (dead-on accurate, I never even use a tape when I'm ripping), the gravity rise stand, the (optional) pull out stock supports, and the fact that I can fold it up and roll it into a corner when I'm not using it.

 

[theoldwizard1]

If you have the space for storage, you can not beat the old Craftsman tables saws. Don't worry too much about rust on the table. Steel wool, elbow grease and a bit of mineral oil will make it look almost new.Look for one with the motor mounted out front. The fence can be a hit or missing, but there are a lot of plans on YouTube to make a good fence. Factory extensions, left and right are nice, but not a must have because you can buy/make them.

The first thing you want to make is a cross cut sled. Dozens of "how to" on YouTube.

My best advice of "breaking down" large 4'x8' panels is DON'T USE YOUR TABLE SAW. Most stores will cut them into more manageable sizes (even 2'x8' is a lot better) as long as you plan to do the finish cut at home or live with their accuracy.

 

[matt_i]

C'mon, a venerable Powermatic model 66 with a biesmeyer fence should be available at a reasonable price somewhere by him.

Word! That would always be my recommendation.

 

[Stuart in MN]

C'mon, a venerable Powermatic model 66 with a biesmeyer fence should be available at a reasonable price somewhere by him.

I've seen plenty of them for sale, but not at a reasonable price.

Given the two examples pictured I assume the original poster is looking for something that's relatively portable and/or can be folded up for storage when not in use.

 

[Deception]

Define furniture projects. Modern plywood case work and lightweight projects a job saw will be fine. If you fancy arts and crafts or other heavy furniture out of solid heavy oak or solid maple then something much heavier is going to give your better results.

mostly plywood, like making some cabinets or whatnot..
basically need an all around performer.. this is a secondary hobby after wrenching on cars, i need everything to be somewhat easily movable

 

[txvwnut]

I’ve got an older Jet with their copy of a Biessmyer fence. I had a couple of Craftsman’s and never liked them for some reason. I also prefer belt drive over direct drive.

Whatever saw you buy make sure the arbor can handle a stacked dado.

 

[tarmy]

This...Powermatic 66

 

[derosa]

I’ve got an older Jet with their copy of a Biessmyer fence. I had a couple of Craftsman’s and never liked them for some reason. I also prefer belt drive over direct drive.

Whatever saw you buy make sure the arbor can handle a stacked dado.

This is an important one, book cases and cabinets hold up better with dados rather then just glue and screws. For home use I'd also prefer something with an induction motor, they just run a lot quieter, my shop in insulated with finished walls so I can work until midnight with no complaints. Couldn't do the same with many universal motors and my neighbors as close as they are.
I will be replacing my tablesaw in the very near future, it will be the sawstop contractors saw, they have a portable version and I want the safety. Mostly for my kids who are getting interested but also for me.

 

[BFHtime]

Definitely try setting up the fence for cuts that you would make. Some fences are easier to use than others. There are work arounds as previously suggested, but if this is his first table saw I would go with a portable dewalt, with the nice roller for the minor adjustment. Not sure on the model number, but I wish more more saws had something similar. I have wasted so much time with lining up fences properly on some saws.

A good fence makes a huge difference. Ease of set up, from cut to cut, and holding square.

 

[driftpin]

If the Powermatic Model 66 isn't portable-enough for you (define 'portable') and bear in-mind you can get a wheeled dolly for one, then consider a Powermatic Model 64.

I have both, and I like to fire-up the 64 and to use it, but if I had something thick to cut or slot, the Model 66 has the beef. The Model 64 can do the job, it's just going to take longer.

The Model 64 is lighter, so it's easier to move, I move mine when I need-to. The Model 66 is more of a stationary saw, I don't have mine on a dolly.

 

[GaryM909]

I have the Dewalt one. You cannot put a dado blade on it. Might be a problem if you want to make furniture down the road. Other then that it worked good for the two times I used it.

 

[gungatim]

LGR!

 

[6PTsocket]

C'mon, a venerable Powermatic model 66 with a biesmeyer fence should be available at a reasonable price somewhere by him.

I have been trolling CL for one of those for some time. The Powermatic Accufence is a Bies. style fence that IMHO is actually better. The ones I have seen were too beat up or overpriced. You can't put a riving knife on it so you had better be that much more careful. The replacement PM2000 has been around a long time but I never see used ones.

Sent from my SM-G900V using Tapatalk

 

[Deception]

Definitely try setting up the fence for cuts that you would make. Some fences are easier to use than others. There are work arounds as previously suggested, but if this is his first table saw I would go with a portable dewalt, with the nice roller for the minor adjustment. Not sure on the model number, but I wish more more saws had something similar. I have wasted so much time with lining up fences properly on some saws.

A good fence makes a huge difference. Ease of set up, from cut to cut, and holding square.

ive read that the dewalt dwe7491RS has a very rack & pinion good fence system. A lot of the independent youtube reviews said this was the best overall compared to bosch, hitachi etc..

im leaning towards this one, its got big enough capacity for larger projects, accepts dado blades with modified throat plate.. but stores away relatively small on the rolling stand

 

[Damon L.]

Another vote for a Unisaw. With a decent blade I couldn't believe the upgrade over the 10" (delta) contractor saw I was using.

With the blade and VFD (saw is 3 phase), I have less than $400 into this one. I built the mobile base with scrap tube I had lying around. Passes the nickel (and penny) test without a problem.

 

[Deception]

Another vote for a Unisaw. With a decent blade I couldn't believe the upgrade over the 10" (delta) contractor saw I was using.

With the blade and VFD (saw is 3 phase), I have less than $400 into this one. I built the mobile base with scrap tube I had lying around. Passes the nickel (and penny) test without a problem.

Where did you buy that saw for $400?

 

[Stuart in MN]

Where did you buy that saw for $400?

I was wondering the same thing. I watch for Unisaws for sale, and even junk ones in Minnesota usually go for a lot more than that.

 

[gungatim]

3 phase equipment in my neck of the woods goes for scrap prices....nobody wants it. and changing a motor on a unisaw is difficult due to the design, which is why you end up using a VFD...

 

[Firebrick43]

If you are looking at cabinet and ply, have you looked at a tracksaw? Superb dust collection, portable and very small storage, and it's much easier to cut ply stationary rather than cut ply on a table saw. Even though I have a unisaw I cut my ply wood with my dewalt tracksaw. A router attachment for the track and you can make very accurate dados as well. (I prefer my dado stack on the unisaw however if the pieces are under 30").

If I was doing limited woodworking I would personally be without a table saw than my track saw. Fortunately now I don't have to decide.

 

[Damon L.]

Where did you buy that saw for $400?

I saved the saw from the dumpster (with a bunch of other machines) for peanuts. Lots of elbow grease, fresh paint, and an electrolysis tank made up for the money I didn't spend.

Arbor bearings, new belts, a VFD, power switch, and a good deal on a used Forrest blade from a friend rounded out the cash outlay.

If you're willing to put in the work, you too can have a brand new 1967 Unisaw.

 

[Deception]

If you are looking at cabinet and ply, have you looked at a tracksaw? Superb dust collection, portable and very small storage, and it's much easier to cut ply stationary rather than cut ply on a table saw. Even though I have a unisaw I cut my ply wood with my dewalt tracksaw. A router attachment for the track and you can make very accurate dados as well. (I prefer my dado stack on the unisaw however if the pieces are under 30").

If I was doing limited woodworking I would personally be without a table saw than my track saw. Fortunately now I don't have to decide.

what model do you have? cordless? yeah i have seen them and they look pretty versatile

 

[Deception]

I saved the saw from the dumpster (with a bunch of other machines) for peanuts. Lots of elbow grease, fresh paint, and an electrolysis tank made up for the money I didn't spend.

Arbor bearings, new belts, a VFD, power switch, and a good deal on a used Forrest blade from a friend rounded out the cash outlay.

If you're willing to put in the work, you too can have a brand new 1967 Unisaw.

thats pretty awesome, I wish i had the room for something like that

 

[Damon L.]

3 phase equipment in my neck of the woods goes for scrap prices....nobody wants it. and changing a motor on a unisaw is difficult due to the design, which is why you end up using a VFD...

This right here. Nobody wants 3 phase stuff. I happened to be in the right place at the right time as well.

I actually thought about doing a single phase motor. I like the soft start of the VFD in this application as my shop electrical isn't the best right now. No dimming of the lights. Slow speeds for testing, and the arguably smoother 3-phase motor were other reasons I went with a VFD for the conversion on this one.

 

[Firebrick43]

what model do you have? cordless? yeah i have seen them and they look pretty versatile

Mine is not cordless and personally always use with a shopvac so I don't see the point

This is the combo I have. https://www.dewalt.com/products/power-tools/saws/track-saws/612-165mm-tracksaw-kit-with-59--102-track/dws520ck

In hardwoods it works ok in 1" or thinner. I use it a lot to straight edge rough sawn air dried lumber so I can have a straight edge on the fence of the unisaw instead of using a jointer. I have "jointed" some 2" thick red oak slabs for a friend. He used the 30" wide slabs as bar countertops. It did it but was slow. I could not of done them easily any other way without a large jointer. If they were in my shop I could have used my jointer hand plane but moving the slabs even with two guys was difficult so the tracksaw made it much easier

 

[engineer2]

The Ridgid R4513 portable table saw is decent for $499.

 

[metlmunchr]

I've got a Delta belt drive contractor saw I bought new about 25 years ago. Its a decent saw and a lot of them are around in the used market, but its not in the same class as a Unisaw or the equivalent from Powermatic or General.

The Delta saws have a 1.5 hp motor and always came wired for 120V. If you reconnect the motor for 240V the difference in power will surprise you. I attribute that to difference in voltage drop due to half the amperage rather than anything magical about 240V.

One other worthwhile change on the contractor saw, or any belt drive saw where the motor hangs off the back and the belt is tensioned by gravity, is to change out the standard belt for one of those that's made up of a series of links. Standard belts take a set when idle and under tension, and that's the source of 90% or more of the vibration in saws of this design. The linked belt takes care of that for not much money.

 

[kngelv]

If you need mobility then the Dewalt is a fine saw. No its not like some of the larger saws others are advocating but it folds up out of the way and does a good job for a typical homeowner. I have one and can attest that it has a better fence than any others in it's price range.

James

 

[GrayFlattop]

Well, you can buy a smaller, less expensive saw and it will be cheaper. You will struggle when trying to cut larger pieces of sheet goods and will encounter limitations if you want to do any substantial amount of woodworking.

Or you can spend a bit more - only once - and pick up either a used Powermatic 66 or Delta unisaw. I spent a huge amount of money (to me, at the time <$1700 in 1984>) on a Powermatic 66 with a 50 " Biesemeyer and never looked back. It has been a reliable performer since then and it was the centerpiece in my shop when I went out on my own making cabinets and doing finish woodworking for several years.

Prior to that, I struggled with a circa '78 craftsman 10" table saw that was, well, horrible. Crummy fence, crummy motor mount - really the worst craftsman power tool I ever owned or used.

You could probably make a go of things with a Makita or Bosch portable table saw with their portable stands that roll away ($500-700) and a use a Makita track saw to break down panels ($409 at Home depot right now).

Anything less that that and you might end up regretting it if your standards for craftsmanship is demanding when it comes to building furniture.

 

[BFHtime]

ive read that the dewalt dwe7491RS has a very rack & pinion good fence system. A lot of the independent youtube reviews said this was the best overall compared to bosch, hitachi etc..

im leaning towards this one, its got big enough capacity for larger projects, accepts dado blades with modified throat plate.. but stores away relatively small on the rolling stand

IMO this is the best PORTABLE table saw.

Most of the other recommendations are not portable. Portable means easy to set up just about anywhere and you can carry it with one hand in a lunchbox like fashion, just heavier.

 

[BFHtime]

Rolling stand and horses are convenient but not necessary to save some money.

You make your own horses. This set up is super convenient though.

 

[Deception]

Well, you can buy a smaller, less expensive saw and it will be cheaper. You will struggle when trying to cut larger pieces of sheet goods and will encounter limitations if you want to do any substantial amount of woodworking.

Or you can spend a bit more - only once - and pick up either a used Powermatic 66 or Delta unisaw. I spent a huge amount of money (to me, at the time <$1700 in 1984>) on a Powermatic 66 with a 50 " Biesemeyer and never looked back. It has been a reliable performer since then and it was the centerpiece in my shop when I went out on my own making cabinets and doing finish woodworking for several years.

Prior to that, I struggled with a circa '78 craftsman 10" table saw that was, well, horrible. Crummy fence, crummy motor mount - really the worst craftsman power tool I ever owned or used.

You could probably make a go of things with a Makita or Bosch portable table saw with their portable stands that roll away ($500-700) and a use a Makita track saw to break down panels ($409 at Home depot right now).

Anything less that that and you might end up regretting it if your standards for craftsmanship is demanding when it comes to building furniture.

I totally get spending money to buy quality tools, i just dont have the room for a big fixed location table saw. Def needs to be "portable" . Im planning on refinishing my basement next year, i need to be able to bring the saw down there with me. Thats not happening with a powermatic 66 lol. Im either gonna go with the dewalt with 32" rip table saw, or the tracksaw.. tracksaw is a little more money but might suit my needs better for the moment.. can always get the other tool later.

 

[Damon L.]

Unisaw shipping weight is 422lbs, don't sell yourself short. An appliance dolly can get it down there.

I move mine around all the time with the mobile base.

However, if all you need is a contractor's saw, there are some good ones out there. Bear in mind that most of them have the trunnions attached to the table, so squaring the blade to the miter slots requires table removal. A cabinet saw has these attached to the cabinet, so it's pretty simple to adjust the table.

 

[todd_fuller]

To counter the nay-sayers against the smaller saws, check out the Rousseau stands. If you don’t want to dedicate a huge amount of space for a table saw, this can be a good option.

Track saw is great for breaking down sheet goods to their final dimensions but have limitations on thick and narrow cuts.

 

[Crazyjake8493]

If you'll never bring the saw anywhere, and it'll only be used in the garage and driveway, I'd look at something like the Delta 36-725 at Lowes, or the Ridgid at HD. I have the Delta and feel it's a little nicer, better fence set up. Either way, you can get a saw with a cast iron top and more power than a Dewalt portable saw, for about the same price. Or check Craigslist for a used cabinet saw, though I didn't have any luck around here.