More electrical connector / crimper questions...

[bmwpower]

Ok, I thought an insulated connector was an insulated connector. How come there are 2 styles of crimping dies? Do the pro ones have more insulation or something? And why is the shape different?

One for "Large professional terminals (e.g. Panduit, T&B, etc.)"

http://www.paladin-tools.com/view_tool.php?id=396&parent_id=231

...and one for "Standard commercial terminals (e.g. hardware store brands)"

http://www.paladin-tools.com/view_tool.php?id=397&parent_id=231

 

[mrb]

the top one is for double sleeve type, bottom is for junky hardware store type.

 

[bmwpower]

the top one is for double sleeve type, bottom is for junky hardware store type.

Double sleeve?

 

[mrb]

Double sleeve?

theres a metal sleeve over the crimp portion of the terminal, then nylon insulation molded over that. ill try to post a pic later

 

[bmwpower]

theres a metal sleeve over the crimp portion of the terminal, then nylon insulation molded over that. ill try to post a pic later

Like this?

http://www.maneywire.com/ring-terminals-nylon-insulated-with-extra-crimp-sleeve-p-1744-l-en.html

versus something like this?

 

[Merkava_4]

You want the #2035 die that leaves this kind of crimp:

 

[Diesel_Crawler]

You want the #2035 die that leaves this kind of crimp:

Which set do you have Merk? Like brand style etc?

 

[walrus]

Looks like Klein?

 

[FNFS2000]

http://crimping.info/

 

[jeepnut24]

I use the non-insulated die then cover with heat srink.

 

[Stephenw]

I use the non-insulated die then cover with heat srink.

I use uninsulated terminals, then cover with heat shrink.

 

[jeepnut24]

I use uninsulated terminals, then cover with heat shrink.

I wish I could find a good supplier of non-split, uninsulated terminals...

Until then, Ill use insulated terminals, uninsulated die on the crimper, and heat shrink. I think the non insulated die gives a better crimp.

 

[metalwork]

I wish I could find a good supplier of non-split, uninsulated terminals...

Until then, Ill use insulated terminals, uninsulated die on the crimper, and heat shrink. I think the non insulated die gives a better crimp.

Have you tried Mouser.com? They carry just about every variation of Tyco terminals there are.

 

[comedyman809]

actually, the most professional crimpers are a ratcheting type that is about 18 inches lon with red and yellow handles. not sure who makes them, they are about 250 dollars.

they leave either 1 dot or 2 dots on the crimp, to let you and osha know that it has been crimped properly, the 1 or 2 dots depends on gauge.

i worked at a facility that built control panels for bakeries, and each crimp had to have 2 dots or i had to redo them, and sometimes that meant re-running the wire.

 

[comedyman809]

http://www.alliedelec.com/search/productdetail.aspx?SKU=3641101


this is a picture of what the newer model looks like, i cannot find the one i used 15 years ago anywhere on the internet.

 

[JayL]

Do you think this is a good crimping tool kit?

http://www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/t...t_shr?_encoding=UTF8&m=ATVPDKIKX0DER&v=glance

 

[Merkava_4]

actually, the most professional crimpers are a ratcheting type that is about 18 inches lon with red and yellow handles.

Are you saying I'm unprofessional?!!?

The ratcheting crimpers are mainly to ensure that the terminal is fully crimped - as in they won't release until the crimp is made. But if you have a death grip like I do, there's no problem with using the manual crimpers.

Right before the terminal is fully crimped, my knuckles go - "POP!!"

 

[SouthCoastMudder]

I have the same problem with the whole knuckle "popage". I also don't like using the uninsulated dies on insulated terminals because I have a tendency to squeeze right through and mangle the terminal to all hell.

 

[FNFS2000]

If you go ratcheting, you may as well go all the way with Knipex, and know its the best and its made in Germany...

 

[bmwpower]

Do you think this is a good crimping tool kit?

http://www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/t...t_shr?_encoding=UTF8&m=ATVPDKIKX0DER&v=glance

Those grips would drive me nuts. No contour.

Are you saying I'm unprofessional?!!?

The ratcheting crimpers are mainly to ensure that the terminal is fully crimped - as in they won't release until the crimp is made. But if you have a death grip like I do, there's no problem with using the manual crimpers.

Right before the terminal is fully crimped, my knuckles go - "POP!!"

I'm biased to the ratcheting ones. Less for me to mess up and a little easier to hold the connectors when you have a bunch of wires all over the place - just place the connector in the crimper and squeeze until it's snug (not crimped). Then put the wire in, align things and rat-rat-rat-rat.

But as you've seen from my other threads, you gotta buy all the dies at $20-30 a pop and it adds up quick. If you're just doing insulated, non-insulated, CAT5-6, RJ11, RG6 (like me), it's not too bad. Most ratcheting ones come as kits and you can supplement with more dies.

If you go ratcheting, you may as well go all the way with Knipex, and know its the best and its made in Germany...

Ok...I will bite. Why is it the best?

 

[FNFS2000]

why is BMW better than GM? haha
The knipex(really rennstieg, a company owned by Knipex) private labels almost all the crimpers for high end tool companies. They are used by spec in most manufacturing environments around the world. Their reputation is tops, I don't really know many specifics, its not my thing, but I know they are considered to be the best by everyone except some fanatical US made nuts.

 

[mrb]

I wish I could find a good supplier of non-split, uninsulated terminals...

Until then, Ill use insulated terminals, uninsulated die on the crimper, and heat shrink. I think the non insulated die gives a better crimp.

what you are looking for is called brazed barrel. Amp(tyco), 3M, and others make them.

 

[mrb]

RG6 (like me),


Ok...I will bite. Why is it the best?

you shouldnt be crimping coax anymore. Compression connectors are pretty much the standard now.

 

[bmwpower]

They look nice!... but $$$

 

[bmwpower]

you shouldnt be crimping coax anymore. Compression connectors are pretty much the standard now.

Not for me.
What do I need to do compression connectors? Lemme guess...another tool?

 

[Merkava_4]

Oh God!! ... That's gorgeous!!

 

[jeepnut24]

what you are looking for is called brazed barrel. Amp(tyco), 3M, and others make them.

Thanks...


Now I need a good source for the sealed crimp connectors...

 

[kwhitelaw]

Not for me.
What do I need to do compression connectors? Lemme guess...another tool?

pretty much the norm.

 

[bmwpower]

pretty much the norm.

What's the big advantage?

 

[kwhitelaw]

What's the big advantage?

time. a couple seconds to strip, a second to load the connector and crimp.

I could strip and fit 5 or 6 connectors in a minute or so, depending on if its quad cable or not.

 

[Merkava_4]

For those of you looking for "professional" connectors, here's the one stop shop:

http://www.midterminc.com/

 

[bmwpower]

time. a couple seconds to strip, a second to load the connector and crimp.

I could strip and fit 5 or 6 connectors in a minute or so, depending on if its quad cable or not.

So there's no sonic/quality difference, just quicker. Not like I do coax that much, so probably not a big deal to me. This must be something that has come out recently cause I don't remember this stuff 7-8 years ago when I did my house.

 

[cronic]

time. a couple seconds to strip, a second to load the connector and crimp.

I could strip and fit 5 or 6 connectors in a minute or so, depending on if its quad cable or not.

Time? Really? I have put on thousands of connectors and the process for putting on compression ends is no quicker than crimp style. You still have to strip the cable properly, put on the end, and then crimp or compress it. They both take the same amount of time. Don't get me wrong, I like the compression style, mainly snap and seal, better than crimp, but they are no quicker than crimp style. I feel the compression style is a more secure connection.

 

[kwhitelaw]

Time? Really? I have put on thousands of connectors and the process for putting on compression ends is no quicker than crimp style. You still have to strip the cable properly, put on the end, and then crimp or compress it. They both take the same amount of time. Don't get me wrong, I like the compression style, mainly snap and seal, better than crimp, but they are no quicker than crimp style. I feel the compression style is a more secure connection.

I guess I should have elaborated, but multitasking leads to condensed answers..

in addition to time, which I do feel is quicker to compress than crimp, I feel the compressed fitting will more easily guarantee a solid connection/transmit of signal.. kind of like the age old crimp/solder debate..

assuming you can strip the cable properly, making sure the strands aren't in contact with the center conductor, and can insert the fitting onto the cable far enough, I feel you have a lower failure rate with a compressed connector than a crimped one, where a weak crimp could degrade signal flow over time, especially in an area that the cable could be jarred, breaking the connection.

one downside to compression fittings is the cost, I'll admit.

 

[cronic]

I guess I should have elaborated, but multitasking leads to condensed answers..

in addition to time, which I do feel is quicker to compress than crimp, I feel the compressed fitting will more easily guarantee a solid connection/transmit of signal.. kind of like the age old crimp/solder debate..

assuming you can strip the cable properly, making sure the strands aren't in contact with the center conductor, and can insert the fitting onto the cable far enough, I feel you have a lower failure rate with a compressed connector than a crimped one, where a weak crimp could degrade signal flow over time, especially in an area that the cable could be jarred, breaking the connection.

one downside to compression fittings is the cost, I'll admit.

I'm with you on the compression giving a more reliable connection, but I disagree that it is any quicker.... I guess its all in what you get used to and are comfortable with.

 

[kwhitelaw]

I'm with you on the compression giving a more reliable connection, but I disagree that it is any quicker.... I guess its all in what you get used to and are comfortable with.

yah, I guess. I can solder a car radio harness or remote start install faster than I can crimp..

 

[bad daddy]

I use the ANCOR product, and FTZ connectors, which we use in the marine industry.

Ancor has a ratcheting crimp tool, and I believe it is made by Sargeant.

It has a nice little feature, and that is a gripper that holds the connector in place, before you start the crimp. More importantly, there is never a doubt as to which way the connector should be inserted into the tool.
It's also a double crimp tool, and it crimps on the insulation, as well as the wire: giving added strain relief; provided you are using the connectors shown at the beginning of the thread.

Something to think about with connectors, the insulation on Stak-On, as well as Ancor is Virgin nylon. In cold weather, it doesnt crack.

Give consideration to the wire you're using. In the marine environment, we use tinned fine strand copper wire. It is AWG sizing, not SAE, and the difference is about 10-14% more wire per gauge size. The reason is most runs in a boat are over 10-15 ft, and the heavier gauge is preferred.

FTZ has some new connectors out called Cool Seal, and they have an anerobic sealand in them. Strip, crimp, done. No heat shrink.

Ancor also has some nice German made strippers, which place no strain on the wire, and are a real pleasure to use. I cant remember the name of them, but if anyone is curious, I can go out to the garage and have a look.

For heat shrink tubing, we use the polyolefin 3:1 ratio product, that has the sealant in it. Hard to burn that product.

 

[Rocket1]

I have a cheap Taiwan ratcheting crimper off eBay. It works well and since I don't do a lot of wiring its fine for me.

Although now that I see that Knipex ones I might have buy one. They sure a pretty

 

[comedyman809]

Are you saying I'm unprofessional?!!?

The ratcheting crimpers are mainly to ensure that the terminal is fully crimped - as in they won't release until the crimp is made. But if you have a death grip like I do, there's no problem with using the manual crimpers.

Right before the terminal is fully crimped, my knuckles go - "POP!!"

im not saying your unprofessional. i use channellock crimpers that are the same as the ones in the picture.

the ratcheting ones are about 200-300 bucks. im just saying if you wanted the most professional looking crimp, that would be what you need.

i dont have a set of those, it was a shop tool that the company owned.
with my 20 dollar crimpers, i have never had a crimp come apart!!

but the pain in my hands is what i have to show for the crimper i have now

 

[Hurricane_Whisperer]

Ancors are good. The nylon is the key. PVC just cracks off.

Ace hardware actually carriers some decent made in USA crimp connectors.