Proven epoxy anchor system that’s works

[James168]

I have a 9k 2 post lift. I have a few wedge anchors that are pulling
Out I try hammering them In and retorquing which work for a while but they are starting to pullout again. Concrete is 3500.
I would like to hammer them through and install a threaded rod with epoxy. Which product have you guys used that has been proven to work. Which size rod and whole size

Thank you

 

[RivennHewn]

Talk to a Hilti rep.

 

[DPG]

Talk to a Hilti rep.

This.

 

[nitroracer20]

Hilti RE500 is what we use for structural anchoring threaded rod/wedge anchors etc. great stuff.

Where are you located?

 

[James168]

Hilti RE500 is what we use for structural anchoring threaded rod/wedge anchors etc. great stuff.

Where are you located?

Im in Connecticut.

Thanks for the help everyone

 

[Mr onetwo]

Simpson is good stuff also...make sure you get epoxy, not polyester

 

[NUTTSGT]

Im in Connecticut.

Thanks for the help everyone

This is why adding a general location helps your fellow members rather than putting faux location like garage, attached or detached.




If the anchors keep pulling out, I'd assume they were either drilled oversize or are now oversize if they keep pulling out.

 

[nitroracer20]

Here are the specs on the Hilti RE500.

https://www.hilti.com/medias/sys_ma...12992710686/ASSET_DOC_LOC_1543409_APC_RAW.pdf

Im in NY. You need a special dispenser gun for the Hilti. If you go this route and opt not to buy the gun, let me know - just pay shipping and ill send you the gun to borrow.

Just be cautious about installation temperatures.

 

[matt_i]

I used Sika AnchorFix2 to set anchors for columns. Cannot tell of any issues 4 yrs into it.

I placed in colder weather, I built a cardboard enclosure around the section of wall and had a 1500W space heater running inside of it for half a day prior and the rest of the day after.

Very very important is to get a thin piece of tube (ideally metal) that will reach to the very bottom of the hole and blow, blow, blow, with compressed air until no more dust is coming out. Raise and lower the tube many times and special "bottle brushes" are sold for the same thing. The dust must be fully removed otherwise the epoxy will just bond to the dust which creates a zero-strength connection.

Let the epoxy cure 24 hrs before final torque.

 

[James168]

This is why adding a general location helps your fellow members rather than putting faux location like garage, attached or detached.




If the anchors keep pulling out, I'd assume they were either drilled oversize or are now oversize if they keep pulling out.

I used the appropriate size bit for the anchors I had. 3/4”. Cleaned the hole before inserting anchor. There are drill bits that are 3/4” at the tip only and the shaft is smaller. The bit I had was 3/4 even at the shaft so I think that if you let the drill wonder or tilt slightly it can make the hole bigger. I think that’s what might have happened.

 

[LX-Markham]

Surprised to see all the Hilti RE500 responses. We've switched almost exclusively to the HIT-HY 200 adhesive. Not as susceptible to not cleaning the hole out properly.

Hilti also makes a capsule that doesn't require a mixing gun. Just insert the capsule, it mixes in the hole when you insert the anchor.

Best bet: contact Hilti. They are very helpful in specifying the right product.

 

[James168]

I used Sika AnchorFix2 to set anchors for columns. Cannot tell of any issues 4 yrs into it.

I placed in colder weather, I built a cardboard enclosure around the section of wall and had a 1500W space heater running inside of it for half a day prior and the rest of the day after.

Very very important is to get a thin piece of tube (ideally metal) that will reach to the very bottom of the hole and blow, blow, blow, with compressed air until no more dust is coming out. Raise and lower the tube many times and special "bottle brushes" are sold for the same thing. The dust must be fully removed otherwise the epoxy will just bond to the dust which creates a zero-strength connection.

Let the epoxy cure 24 hrs before final torque.

Thank you. I know a guy that used a sika product for his lift he said it’s been ok.
Im just trying to find out reviews from several people because due to my lack of space I want to use the best product so I don’t have to re do concrete.

 

[GMCGarage]

I have a 9k 2 post lift. I have a few wedge anchors that are pulling
Out I try hammering them In and retorquing which work for a while but they are starting to pullout again. Concrete is 3500.
I would like to hammer them through and install a threaded rod with epoxy. Which product have you guys used that has been proven to work. Which size rod and whole size

Thank you

Hilti HIT HY 200

Problem is hammering through might damage the underside of the slab, blowout, etc that you are now putting a anchor in a damaged hole.

How thick is your slab at the lift?

Might be a good idea to have a new base plate made that is epoxied down, and then the lift bolted to studs welded onto that. Get those anchors in some clean holes

 

[James168]

The slab is 6” with rebar. and drilled through it when I put the anchors so I should be able to hammer it through. If not I’m screwed. He holes are 3/4”. So I would have to drill the hole to 7/8? And use a 3/4 rod? How much of the rod need to be embedded
What do you about the epoxy not leaking down once you try to advance the rod in the hole?

 

[NUTTSGT]

I used the appropriate size bit for the anchors I had. 3/4”. Cleaned the hole before inserting anchor. There are drill bits that are 3/4” at the tip only and the shaft is smaller. The bit I had was 3/4 even at the shaft so I think that if you let the drill wonder or tilt slightly it can make the hole bigger. I think that’s what might have happened.

That's very possible as to what is causing your issue.

Hilti HIT HY 200

Problem is hammering through might damage the underside of the slab, blowout, etc that you are now putting a anchor in a damaged hole.

How thick is your slab at the lift?

Very good point, what is the depth of the concrete and are you "sure" it's the correct depth ?

 

[James168]

That's very possible as to what is causing your issue.




Very good point, what is the depth of the concrete and are you "sure" it's the correct depth ?

Yes I’m sure it’s 6” i was there when they did it. I measured the cavity before they poor concrete

 

[rlitman]

I used the appropriate size bit for the anchors I had. 3/4”. Cleaned the hole before inserting anchor. There are drill bits that are 3/4” at the tip only and the shaft is smaller. The bit I had was 3/4 even at the shaft so I think that if you let the drill wonder or tilt slightly it can make the hole bigger. I think that’s what might have happened.

What sort of a drill did you use? I've had better luck getting clean holes with an SDS than with a hammer drill.

Hammer drills require much more spinning time to get to depth, which means you'll get a more oversized hole, that makes for a poor fit with a wedge anchor that requires close tolerances. An SDS has much more impact power, which makes for a tighter fitting hole as it sinks the bit much faster, however, with larger SDS capacity drills, you'll get more blowout on the back side. The only good answer I have to this is to ease off before your bit exits.

 

[James168]

What sort of a drill did you use? I've had better luck getting clean holes with an SDS than with a hammer drill.

Hammer drills require much more spinning time to get to depth, which means you'll get a more oversized hole, that makes for a poor fit with a wedge anchor that requires close tolerances. An SDS has much more impact power, which makes for a tighter fitting hole as it sinks the bit much faster, however, with larger SDS capacity drills, you'll get more blowout on the back side. The only good answer I have to this is to ease off before your bit exits.

Hammer drill. Sure I’ll keep that in mind if I have to redo concrete hopefully epoxy saves me. The wedge anchors didn’t fail instantly. Been using the lift since summer but every time I go retorque I see a few that are popping out slightly. As per manual if more that 2 1/4” above grade then There is not enough embedment and I think I will be there by mid year, I’m just planning ahead for what’s coming

 

[rlitman]

Hammer drill...

Ok, so you probably have negligible blow out at the bottom, but the holes are likely as you discovered not so great for wedges. I think you're on the right track.

 

[Flail]

The slab is 6” with rebar. and drilled through it when I put the anchors so I should be able to hammer it through. If not I’m screwed. He holes are 3/4”. So I would have to drill the hole to 7/8? And use a 3/4 rod? How much of the rod need to be embedded
What do you about the epoxy not leaking down once you try to advance the rod in the hole?

Pack sand down in base of hole. Check that it’s packed down to very bottom of slab. Pack it hard. Drizzle in a few ml of epoxy and let it set. This will plug the bottom of the hole so the new epoxy doesn’t run out when you put in the new stud.

 

[James168]

Pack sand down in base of hole. Check that it’s packed down to very bottom of slab. Pack it hard. Drizzle in a few ml of epoxy and let it set. This will plug the bottom of the hole so the new epoxy doesn’t run out when you put in the new stud.

Cool thank you!!

 

[James168]

Update apple to hilti rep- they recommended the hy 200. Of the rod is 3/4. Then to drill 7/8 hole. I forgot to ask about the rods they sell.

Has anyone used their rods? Or which rod do you recomend. I saw hilti has regular threaded rods and some that have a cones and groves on the part of the rod that gets embedded

Also ask my lift manufactured they said epoxy was ok they said to buy it at homedepot :0

 

[LX-Markham]

Has anyone used their rods? Or which rod do you recomend. I saw hilti has regular threaded rods and some that have a cones and groves on the part of the rod that gets embedded

Depending on installation conditions and procedures they will recommend either the HIT-Z or the HAS rod. You are likely okay with the HAS (regular) threaded rod. Ask the HILTI rep.

 

[nitroracer20]

See attached...

 

[James168]

Thanks all I think I’m leaning toward the hit-z. They say provides the best anchoring also no need to clean holes, not that I won’t clean them but I guess it’s more forgiving

So how have you guys prevent the epoxy from leaking out the bottom. The hilti rep did not know- just said you are not supposed to drill through the concrete lol.

 

[Nuccio]

Thanks all I think I’m leaning toward the hit-z. They say provides the best anchoring also no need to clean holes, not that I won’t clean them but I guess it’s more forgiving

So how have you guys prevent the epoxy from leaking out the bottom. The hilti rep did not know- just said you are not supposed to drill through the concrete lol.

If you use the Hilti 200 epoxy and there is no void in the bottom I it should not leak out it is more of a thick paste not a liquid. I have used cases of it to set rebar and anchors.

Sent from my SM-T817V using Tapatalk

 

[lukedwag]

It has limited places to go. Just buy enough so you can pump the holes full and drop the rod in. HY200 is a great product

 

[James168]

Cool thanks