Building tube fenders for a jeep

[zmotorsports]

That looks pretty damn good from where I'm sitting Cam.

Great job.

 

[LXCam]

Will the Jeep be used in sand, mud or snow?

Any reason to think about incorporating a mount for a jack base on the backside of the structural triangle?

Guys a desert rat but that would certainly be very handy to have. There's definitely room for that.


I got this feeling that it'll be back for more in the future. Let's just hope it's after the move and I can just focus on the build and not fifty other distractions simultaneously.

 

[LXCam]

That looks pretty damn good from where I'm sitting Cam.

Great job.

Thanks again Mike for both acceptance but more importantly the guidance. You're input has really shaped this project.

 

[C91x]

Why is it that all Californians want to move to Prescott? It's amazing what has happened to Prescott since the "invasion".

 

[Duker]

Little progress. I ended up making the spare carrier out of 1/4" plate with 1-1/4" x 3/16" wall and the receiver from 2" x 3/16" wall. Little loose but I'll fix that. I also offset the mount so you have three inches of difference. That put the bottom of a 33" tire right at the top of the bumper in the lower position. And both the receiver and the mount are run wild for now. I'll cut those down after I finish the jack mount. Then I mocked up the jack to see what looked the best. As low as I could go or at a 45. I'm thinking if I spray bombed it black like Mikes, it'd look waaay better



And once again thanks for you guys input, much appreciated

And here I thought you were going to build a long tube, mount it parallel to the body on the undercarriage and use it as dual purpose jack storage slash skid plate! [emoji51]

In all seriousness, it looks good Cam! [emoji106]


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[bad_idea]

I like the rear bumper. Looking good.

 

[LXCam]

Why is it that all Californians want to move to Prescott? It's amazing what has happened to Prescott since the "invasion".

Thanks for the welcome, makes me feel all warm and fuzzy

And here I thought you were going to build a long tube, mount it parallel to the body on the undercarriage and use it as dual purpose jack storage slash skid plate! [emoji51]

In all seriousness, it looks good Cam! [emoji106]

Hum, dual purpose maybe

Thanks bud.


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I like the rear bumper. Looking good.

Thanks again BI. I'm going to try and wipe this out today, hopefully there's no interruptions.

 

[ddawg16]

LX does do some nice work......

 

[LXCam]

LX does do some nice work......

Thanks John, now if I could just do it about 10x faster.

Wasn't much of a productive day. Got my base plate box made and a teflon insert to maybe help with any rattling. Set it up and tacked in place only to find out that position didn't allow the bar to swing out enough without touching the corner to allow the gate to open 90 degrees. So more inwards it went which meant notching the diagonal much more then I want to. So I'm gonna sleep on it. I might end up cutting that down then make a new mount. I really wanted the jack as far inboard as possible so the tire wasn't sticking way out there but that might mean starting fresh on the rack mount, not exactly the end of the world but still irratating none the less.

In this position the base is pretty close to the light but when you swung it out you could easily remove and place the jack. But like I said I screwed the pooch on the gate fully opening. I didn't take a picture but sliding the foot into the tube and placing the base towards the inside of the box everything works great except the Foot is in the box. Cutting that out on the backside and welding a face and boxing the innerds is an option but I'm not thrilled with that idear.

 

[WoodsTruck]

Did you drill a drain hole in the box?

 

[zmotorsports]

Looks good Cam.

I noticed when I built mine that I had to swing the carrier out just a few degrees more than the tailgate or the gate would make contact when opening. I just added a few degrees and problem solved. Also if you angle the upper portion of the Hi-Lift upwards just a little more, more parallel with the angle support of the carrier, it may clear the taillight a bit more as it will move the foot slightly downward but mine is fairly close as well. I mainly didn't want to block the taillight from view, I wasn't worried about access but the only way the jack will be removed/installed is with the carrier open anyways.

Very nice tough with the insert to reduce rattling. I didn't add anything to the foot portion of mine, the foot is unsupported. The only contact mine has is with the bracket where it attaches.

 

[LXCam]

Did you drill a drain hole in the box?

Not yet but yes that will happen. I didn't want to do that until I had it permanently mounted as at first I thought I'd drill a couple weep holes in the bottom. After sleeping on it I've changed my mind and will mill them into the very bottom of both corners instead so after coating and then siliconing in the insert the water channels out both sides.

Looks good Cam.

I noticed when I built mine that I had to swing the carrier out just a few degrees more than the tailgate or the gate would make contact when opening. I just added a few degrees and problem solved. Also if you angle the upper portion of the Hi-Lift upwards just a little more, more parallel with the angle support of the carrier, it may clear the taillight a bit more as it will move the foot slightly downward but mine is fairly close as well. I mainly didn't want to block the taillight from view, I wasn't worried about access but the only way the jack will be removed/installed is with the carrier open anyways.

Very nice tough with the insert to reduce rattling. I didn't add anything to the foot portion of mine, the foot is unsupported. The only contact mine has is with the bracket where it attaches.

That's exactly what occurred Mike. All it came down to for me was not paying close enough attention when I mocked it up and tested it. As I hadn't notched the diagonal yet and with it pushed out just the 1" made all the difference in the work when fully opened. I honestly thought it would clear. Oops.

I did notice exactly how yours was mounted and I really don't know how physically fit this guys is. My only concern was him not having full control of it or placing it one set of holes off and not paying attention. So I figured the holder would eliminate that potential. Plus the fact the bottom is only mounted with one bolt and has a little wobble to it. I figured that holder would stop what might be just one more rattle location. Fact is it's probably just overkill but I did spend an hour making that stuff, I'd hate to toss it into the box of "who knows - maybe someday this will come in handy".....that box is starting to overflow

 

[LXCam]

Only got a couple hours in today but at least got the mounting aspect of the jack handled. I wound up removing more of the diagonal then I remotely wanted too. But decided to add back in the face with a piece of 1/4" flat bar for two reasons. Primarily so I could grind a matching radius to the tube and help brace it all together once I box in the back side. Once that area got cleared out I was able to play with different angles and get it centered over the swing frame instead of it sitting proud to the rear. And it swings a full 180 degrees without issue. I then grabbed a prefabbed tab and cut up a piece of 5/16" bar that matches the dimensions of the webbing on the jack and welded it in place. This allows the jack to bolt up tight to the tab and also provided a ledge for the web to sit on instead of it laying on the bolt.

It's a rock! I'm happy with how stout and secure the mount turned out. Might not be the prettiest thing, but it's effective and will allow me to get the spare tight to the frame.

 

[bad_idea]

The jack isn't running at the same angle as the square tube for the tire mount. Scrap it. I'll PM you the address for disposal.






I like it. Here in the swampy southeast I could never leave the jack on the back of the jeep like that, would be a muddy rusty mess. Otherwise I would steal that mounting idea, I like it. I have a 90 Cherokee and my high lift lives under the back seat.

 

[LXCam]

The jack isn't running at the same angle as the square tube for the tire mount. Scrap it. I'll PM you the address for disposal.






I like it. Here in the swampy southeast I could never leave the jack on the back of the jeep like that, would be a muddy rusty mess. Otherwise I would steal that mounting idea, I like it. I have a 90 Cherokee and my high lift lives under the back seat.

I've heard tell of this mud stuff you speak of. And if memory serves me correctly I think you need water to make it. That's just not going to happen out here unless it's imported.

Oh the angle, I'm having a hard time with it but after the owner saw the picture of Mike's, he wanted it as low as possible. The only saving grace for my OCD is once the spare is on, the diagonal disappears.

Thanks BI

 

[LXCam]

Finally I'm happy with how this is coming along. It also might take two posts since I haven't a clue how to post more then 6-7 picture per.

But this afternoon saw some of the details dialed in and very much to my liking. One of the things I wasn't sold on was only having one single bolt down for the jack mount. Even though it was solid as a rock and I couldn't get it to even remotely move I added a second just in case a single worked its self loose.






The next thing was cutting down the receiver and mount. I was going to extend the mount past the back of the receiver and just use one jamb bolt on it with a clevise pin in the back. But after thinking about something mike said to me about preloading the tire against the rack decided to create something to do that with yet allow some adjustability for a bigger tire and or different rim offset.

That began with an 1/4 plate insert with a nut welded to the back side that I inserted into to tube so it's pulling against a weld verses welding on a cap that could possibly crack off with my welding abilities. Then tacked on a 1/4" cap.

 

[LXCam]

After that it was time for one final full blown mock up. The first picture is with the spare in the lowest position and it clears everything but is right up against the jack mechanism. However it's perfect for that small tire so no issues. The next picture is with it clocked 90 degrees to the driverside and that provides plenty of room for a larger tire and clearance from the jack, I just don't like it not being symmetrical. The last one is in the upper position and provides plenty of clearance for a 37" tire...I got a half inch to spare

And the last ones are just in various positions. With the small tire it'll open a full 180. But a 37 will bump the side before opening that far. However it still opens more then enough to swing the gate fully open.

Tomorrow afternoon I should be able to finish welding all this up and creating the bumper catch/lock. At that point I got no more excuses and it all comes off to get coated.

 

[Boosted1]

That is slick.
Nice work.

 

[zmotorsports]

Very nicely done Cam.

As a comment about the jack touching the tire, I actually have my Hi-Lift jack pull into the tire very slightly which acts to help stabilize as well as keep the handle and jack from rattling. I merely offset my mounting bracket about 1/8" inboard of the outer surface of the tire so when the jack is tightened down it pulls into the tire and preloads it a bit. Also worth mentioning is that I only throw my Hi-Lift jack on when we are going off-road or heading out on a Jeeping trip, I don't have mine on the majority of the time but when it is on the Jeep it is rattle free.

I like the design very much and the owner should be ecstatic with the way it has turned out.

Great job.

 

[bad_idea]

I really like the offset tire mounting flange. I have my jeep built with no intention of upsizing tires so I do not need the adjustment for future tire sizes. BUT I like the idea of having the tire down low for around town to have visibility out the back; and up high off road for departure angle. This thread is getting tucked away for when I get back around to the jeep.

 

[LXCam]

Very nicely done Cam.

As a comment about the jack touching the tire, I actually have my Hi-Lift jack pull into the tire very slightly which acts to help stabilize as well as keep the handle and jack from rattling. I merely offset my mounting bracket about 1/8" inboard of the outer surface of the tire so when the jack is tightened down it pulls into the tire and preloads it a bit. Also worth mentioning is that I only throw my Hi-Lift jack on when we are going off-road or heading out on a Jeeping trip, I don't have mine on the majority of the time but when it is on the Jeep it is rattle free.

I like the design very much and the owner should be ecstatic with the way it has turned out.

Great job.

I partially miss understood you mike. I thought you meant the tire as well. Regardless it's all pulled together when you lock in the rack.

And I hope he's happy when it's done, I know I will be

I really like the offset tire mounting flange. I have my jeep built with no intention of upsizing tires so I do not need the adjustment for future tire sizes. BUT I like the idea of having the tire down low for around town to have visibility out the back; and up high off road for departure angle. This thread is getting tucked away for when I get back around to the jeep.

I agree on the visibility part for sure. All though it looks much better sitting high for some reason. Maybe because that puts the center line of the spare carrier inline with the jack.



Now for the locking mechanism. I was going to do just a quick pin into the bumper and then a pad lock of some nature on the back (one of those mortised types). But the more I thought about that decided to see what **** I had laying around. So after a bit of digging came up with enough stuff to do something I hope is simple in appearance but adds some security without the bulkyness of a external padlock.

I'll explain it later if it works and if it don't, just forget I said anything K??

 

[PugetDude]

Nice work, Cam! Looks good.

 

[LXCam]

Nice work, Cam! Looks good.

Thank ya PD.

Well I'm chipping away at it. At this point all I need to finish the lock mount is a 2"W x .750 piece of solid steel bar. I completely forgot I used up the last of it within the steps.

Bummer

I didn't want to use aluminum but looks like I'll need to if I wanna finish it tonight. I also figured I'd share the progress since it looks like it just might look.

 

[LXCam]

It works!

And I'm not sure where I got luckier. Finding that last chunk of steel billet or the fact the stupid thing actually functions.









And sorry about the excessive posting today but it's the only way since I can't figure how to load more pics off the phone.

 

[LXCam]

Almost made it but no cigar. And I almost completely screwed the pooch but the big guy reached down and slapped me upside the head just in time. All day I kept telling myself that I've got to fully weld the frame before I weld in the pin receiver as I knew it'd change shape just a tad. After I got done drilling the alignment holes and cut a dowel for dialing it in I almost tacked it in so I could finish the lock.

Thankfully I didn't. Because by the time I got done it raised the latch side 1/8". And as tight a fit that the double D rod I'm using is it wouldn't take but a smidgen to cause me a headache. Looks like the last couple details like the end caps and lock stuff and final welding of the latch pin receiver will need to wait until tomorrow night.

This first picture is with the rack loaded and adjusted. I'm really happy I can counter the sag.



Once that was measured at the pivot I set up some gauge blocks to make certain the angle of the dangle was money.



I still had some of the tubing I used for the frame stand offs. This worked perfect as a drill guide.



For final weld of the bumper insert I decided to not match the OD but keep it slightly smaller. Turns out having a knock out set sure comes in handy for other projects. 1" KO was money for this.



After that I finished off the ugly and final welding of anything that could make it change shape.



And good thing I did cause it pulled upwards 1/8"

 

[zmotorsports]

Lookin' great Cam. Very nice work on that lock assembly. I merely used a toggle clamp but I like the lock and key assembly.

 

[shedfullatools]

That lock system is sweet First one I've personally seen done like that, as always impressed with the skill and level of detail that goes into your work

 

[LXCam]

Lookin' great Cam. Very nice work on that lock assembly. I merely used a toggle clamp but I like the lock and key assembly.

Once again Mike

That lock system is sweet First one I've personally seen done like that, as always impressed with the skill and level of detail that goes into your work

Thanks much SFT. I wish I could lie to ya and tell you I went into this with a solid plan which is what I usually try to do. But on this project I've been making it up as I went along. Fortunately luck was on my side with this lock project.

This is all you'll see on the outside when she's wrapped up. I still need to weld in the Double D guide, machine a teflon insert for the bumper insert and make the blank plate for the backside. I was originally going to make a landing pad that mounted flat to the bumper skin but after going the route I did have decided to make the insert with a flange. That'll keep it placed without needing to do anymore mods to the bumper skin.



Well getting anything done on a Wednesday is always a pipe dream. It's the only day of the week I take off since it's our scheduled day for babysitting the grand kids. But I did get a brief hour to myself during their nap to clean up and put away all the **** that was laying around.


I swear one of these days I'm gonna catch that sumbitch that breaks into my shop and does this to me. And when I do I'm gonna pulp him to a beet.




Hopefully I get home today with enough time to finish those details, break down all the stuff and get it primed. It's supposed to rain this weekend so I'd like to get it all coated by tomorrow night. That'd give me the weekend for final assembly and get her gone Sunday night. Wish me luck guys, I'm going to need it.

 

[LXCam]

Well I guess this is the last of the Fab portion guys. Turns out yesterday I screwed up pretty good. I didn't realize the two DOM tubes I was using weren't a match. The one I used as my drill guide which is a 1" OD tube its mate has a 1.050 ID. I didn't catch that until today when I was measuring up for the bush insert. And as luck would have it the bumper receiver was off center. So needless to say that left me Fd on a simple turning project on the lathe. The next obstacle was boring a good fit off center as I don't have a four jaw chuck for this lathe. And before I could finish up the guide and lock now more then ever I needed to use it as a guide to find my center or drill it loose which wasn't an option for me.

So long story short I under sized the hole. After welding the D guide and lock hold into place I then took a scrap piece of double D shaft and milled a cutting edge into it. Then Using the D guide, chiseled my way into a perfect fit. It worked so well I wish I had thought of it before hand then drilled my hole the same size as the flats (.550) and broached it to keep the radius on the money.

Once past that major obstacle I was able to finish up the handle portion. Now it's time to pull it back apart for the humptenth time, cap it, clean the shop and clean alllllll the metal. I'm still hoping to get it primed tonight but I'm not going to hold my breath on that one.

I guess I should add for those that may not have understood the reasoning for using the D shaft. In order for me to make this type of locking system work I needed a method to keep the mortise aligned with the lock. This made that aspect dead on the money. I also considered bolting it down to the bumper but realized the inconvenience factor would **** a huge set. So by using the shaft as a full pin (top to bottom) it locks the assembly together very nicely. Between the pivot and this plus strengthing the hinge side there's no play, nudder words it ain't gonna rattle. However there is still a little flex to everything which would be fine for paved roads but getting bounced around off road is going to fatigue something, I just not sure what to be honest. I'm thinking about a quick release pin at the top to the tailgate to completely eliminate any movement. I'm thinking something simple so there's no drama opening it up.







No it ain't pretty but it's stuck good. After I pull this back off I've decided to drill a couple 1/2" holes on the face and plug wel it for good measure. I'll also caulk all the edges after it's primed so water can't get between the shell and block.

 

[zmotorsports]

That is super-slick Cam. I was having a hard time envisioning it when you started the lock assembly but now it all makes sense and looks very clean and tidy. Great job as usual.

 

[LXCam]

That is super-slick Cam. I was having a hard time envisioning it when you started the lock assembly but now it all makes sense and looks very clean and tidy. Great job as usual.

I kinda figured that might have been hard to follow. I considered explaining it in detail when I started but then figured there was enough room for error I might end up round filing the whole thing. But once it started coming together I then figured ****, why bother typing all that out I'll just show the pictures

 

[WoodsTruck]

Do you have a backstop to keep the swing arm from closing too quickly and hitting the body before the pin can be dropped in place?

 

[LXCam]

Do you have a backstop to keep the swing arm from closing too quickly and hitting the body before the pin can be dropped in place?

Ya, that set of vise grips. Figure if I paint them black no one will be the wiser.


Yes it will have a stop. I didn't build it yet because I was debating on what material to cover it with. I've got more teflon and nylon and a selection of various rubber products laying here. I think I'd like to use some of this 1/2" thick rubber mat framed and sitting proud for just a little cushion effect. But I need to play with it and figure out the best method of finishing the edges and counter sunk holes first. Rubber is such a PITA to make look good. Also I didn't want to set that design in stone before I make the blank plate for the access hole in the back. Between the thickness of the cover, a gasket and the bolts (which I'll probably counter sink there's a bit of a variable where to set it. What I do know is the mounting plate will bolt on to the backside of the bumper mount. And in order to do that the bumper needs to come off. That's just one of today's detail projects before I can prime and coat.


On a side note I forgot to show off my mad cutlery skills on the home made broach.



That worked so good I think I'll sign up for Forged With Fire and make an *** out of myself in front of all America.

 

[zmotorsports]

Cam, I used a piece of 1/4" thick rubber about 2" square for my carrier to clamp back against. The bottom glides onto a piece of black UHMW and the rubber is glued with 3M Weatherstrip adhesive onto the back of the stop that the carrier clamps against. I glued the rubber than clamped the carrier closed for 24 hours to allow to fully setup and in 90k miles and 7+ years now it has held up well. I didn't want fasteners showing nor rubbing against the powder coating so I thought I would try adhesive and if it failed after a couple of years I would just redo it but it has held up great. Just food for thought and you won't have to deal with fasteners.

 

[LXCam]

That's a good idea mike, duly noted.

 

[LXCam]

Check the rubber baby buggy bumper off the list. Once again my collection of garbage comes to the rescue.

I have no idea why I have a few of these double studded isolators but cutting one down and getting fancy with a cordless drill and the belt sander cleaned it right up. Then a cut up some 3/8" plate, drill and tapped and welded on. Quick, simple, and most importantly done.







Being a guy who is not a paint and body guy I have very limited tools for such instances. And now that a lot of this once fresh metal has been hanging around I need to do some prep before I can prime. Knowing I had a brand new in the box DA I got off the clearance rack at depot a couple years ago for a whopping $15.00 I wasn't too concerned about it. So I dug out the box and found out why I paid $15.00 for this glorious tool. It was missing both the pad and the bolt. Searching the rack of death was no hope for that bolt but I did find a backing pad. So once again it was time to improvise.

 

[zmotorsports]

Great idea using the cut in half isolator Cam. Those little things come in quite handy in the most unexpected situations.

 

[WoodsTruck]

Now the bumper can be adjustable over time if the rubber wears or gets compressed, by simply adding a shim washer. Brilliant.

 

[LXCam]

Great idea using the cut in half isolator Cam. Those little things come in quite handy in the most unexpected situations.

Ya they do. I'm the worst at tossing misc stuff. I keep every flipping kind of doodad I come across and I keep it fairly organized, well in my mind it is

Now the bumper can be adjustable over time if the rubber wears or gets compressed, by simply adding a shim washer. Brilliant.

Yezz sir, that'll be an easy one to deal with later in life.

And thanks again!

Well guys I'm one whipped sumbitch. That was a **** load of metal that had to be final prepped, cleaned and now almost primered. All I've got left is the tops of the fenders and thank god for that. I only bought a quart of this two part epoxy high build primer and it's just gonna make it. If I'm lucky I'll have juuust enough to use in my airbrush gun for touch up if needed.

Man was that close

 

[LXCam]

This mornings post is just for Mike. Last night after I finished up priming everything and watched the grass grow for a while I decided to get the inside lip of the fenders seam sealed. Being it rather thick I'm hoping it's cured enough to coat with the bed liner maybe around noontime. But that's totally dependent on my body cooperating. Yesterday got the best of me and my back is telling me to F off and die right now.