Is my panel big enough?
- Thread starter DIYGuy
- Start date
Is there a minimum height requirement for a sub panel? The reason I ask is because I dont think the mains feeding the panel are going to be long enough. Hopefully I'm wrong. Currently the panel is fed through a back fed breaker. The new panel is taller and has a main at the top of the panel. If they dont reach, is there an easy fix?
Sent from my SM-G935V using The Garage Journal mobile app
Sent from my SM-G935V using The Garage Journal mobile app
There is no minimum height specified. Easiest way around the short conductors in your case is to orient the panel so the main cb is at the bottom and the branch cb's are above it.
Max height of a cb handle is 6' 7". You may need to shorten the feeder conduit to achieve this for the highest branch cb.
Max height of a cb handle is 6' 7". You may need to shorten the feeder conduit to achieve this for the highest branch cb.
pattenp
Well-known member
Since it has a horizonal switch on the main there is no up or down side for mounting the panel. The line lugs can be on the top or on the bottom.
So I got the old panel out and removed the conduit from the wires feeding it. I found that the neutral wire is not #6 like I thought. It is #8. The two hots are #6 though and the ground is #10. Is this ok?
Also, with the new panel in place against the wall, it is snug against the romex going to and from the GFCI outlet thats under the panel. I'm not concerned with it because it's not that tight. But will that be a problem with the inspector? I attached some pictures for reference.
Thanks guys!
Sent from my SM-G935V using The Garage Journal mobile app
Also, with the new panel in place against the wall, it is snug against the romex going to and from the GFCI outlet thats under the panel. I'm not concerned with it because it's not that tight. But will that be a problem with the inspector? I attached some pictures for reference.
Thanks guys!
Sent from my SM-G935V using The Garage Journal mobile app
teamextreme
Well-known member
Those panels are sized to fit between 16" centered studs and be secured to the stud on each side. I think the inspector will not like the fact that it's not secured to one side (assuming this is the case since the wires run down that side between the panel and stud). I would re-route the wires to the other side of the stud and move the GFI to that side as well. Then secure the panel to the right hand stud.
I cant seem to find any info about having that neutral be a #8 while the two hots are #6. Does anyone have any input on that?
Sent from my SM-G935V using The Garage Journal mobile app
Sent from my SM-G935V using The Garage Journal mobile app
sberry
Banned
It cam be down to 30A I believe,,, don't remember where its at. I did one the other day like that as its what I had on the truck. (disclaimer) note I said believe,,,, feel free to add 2 cents if one feels like it.
sberry
Banned
The box is mounted better. There are some tricks a diy guy can do that might not be done on spec especially since a stud was added. Taking a pic is good. I like to put an outlet below with 4x4 old work box although some can get hand thru 2x4 and even one above with cover plate fo a guy can reach in and add a connector to the panel if its drywalled. Drill a hole in the left stud and both right. Put a string or wire in the right. If cutting in a new box this allows reach and fish 2 bays over. Can install a new circuit 4 ft away without drilling and drywall removal.
Drill extra hole in top plate above panel too, can reach in thru removal of old work box, can even plug hole with a little pinch of fiber glass, pull it out and shove wire up.
I had a bud call a while back,,,says, I only got 110 in the garage and I wanna run a buzzer, wants a cord to reach basement to dryer. I finally figure out there is a panel in the garage. Thing of beauty,,, 100A panel, 19 empty spaces, drywalled up tight as a nuns cunny. It was fortunate that putting the welder near the panel was acceptable, cut a hole below for a box and fish a wire up it with a connector on it.
Just such a waste of effort to put in nice service and no extra outlets and no good way to do it without extensive refinish work. A piece of plywood goes across a few bays like my neighbor did is dandy, remove a few screws, run anything he wants in the near vicinity.
Drill extra hole in top plate above panel too, can reach in thru removal of old work box, can even plug hole with a little pinch of fiber glass, pull it out and shove wire up.
I had a bud call a while back,,,says, I only got 110 in the garage and I wanna run a buzzer, wants a cord to reach basement to dryer. I finally figure out there is a panel in the garage. Thing of beauty,,, 100A panel, 19 empty spaces, drywalled up tight as a nuns cunny. It was fortunate that putting the welder near the panel was acceptable, cut a hole below for a box and fish a wire up it with a connector on it.
Just such a waste of effort to put in nice service and no extra outlets and no good way to do it without extensive refinish work. A piece of plywood goes across a few bays like my neighbor did is dandy, remove a few screws, run anything he wants in the near vicinity.
Not sure I understand what you're saying. I'm trying to find out if having a #8 neutral, and two #6 hots is acceptable for what I'm doing (60amp sub panel)
Sent from my SM-G935V using The Garage Journal mobile app
sberry
Banned
There is a legal limit to neutral reduction, I don't recall the exact details. I believe it would be legal here,,,, but should be confirmed by someone with a mind greater than my own. I would likely read it if quoted also. I believe it couldn't be done on smaller feeds, 30A etc. Its so long since I read it and don't even recall where its at.
pattenp
Well-known member
You're okay with the #8 neutral for a 60A feeder.
It is often allowed to reduce the neutral. To be correct you should do a load calc for the neutral current but it's not something I would be concerned about even a little. Run it as is. It's very accepted to reduce a size or two on larger feeder/service.