Stick vs: Steel Garage

[thirdgoat]

I have a 2.5 car attached garage and a 26x26 detached garage, and need/want more workspace. I'm 66 and crawling around under my cars just isn't fun anymore. My first thought is to add roughly a 30x50x14 addition along the back of the existing garage, the downside is the gable end is at the front/rear, makes the roof a little more difficult. I thought about adding "shed" roofs with additional parking on both sides to help hide the addition at the rear, as well as additional parking on one side, patio on the other. I have also wrestled with the idea of a separate steel building, but I want something that doesn't look industrial. I am not in an "exclusive" area, but want something that does not detract from curb appeal.
I have "heard" that a steel building, by the time you enhance it's appearance and the extras you are in the neighborhood of the costs of a stick built. I also "heard" that putting an addition on an existing structure can cost more than totally new construction.
Are there any generic costs per square foot for stick vs: steel? I realize there are a ton of variables, but just trying to get the thought process moving. I live in northern Alabama, about 15 miles from the TN state line if that helps. Again, I am only in the very initial planning stage, but I plan to get something going this year. I would like to keep this in the $30-$40 range if possible.

Thanks!

 

[sberry]

Steel gets better with larger buildings that don't require so much inner finish work.

 

[readhead]

I would say wood is the better choice and I am a metal building contractor.

 

[Pluribus]

When you say "steel," my guess is that you're referring to a pole barn, or post frame if you live in other parts of the country, with metal siding, as that is the cheaper alternative to stick built. That's the one where you bore holes and sink wood posts into the ground. Is that correct?

An actual steel (frame, trusses, etc.) building is typically much more expensive, especially with the additional engineering required for the slab. When you mention $30 to $40, is that per square foot? That's bare-bones pole barn pricing around here. Haven't heard recently, but that might not even get you a slab as part of the package. Might be cheaper where you are, but I'm not sure how much.

Can't speak for you and your priorities, but I struggle with the $ per square foot advantage of pole barns vs. knowing I'll be happier if I go with a stick built shop for myself. At this point, I lean strongly toward stick built.

 

[finn]

When you say "steel," my guess is that you're referring to a pole barn, or post frame if you live in other parts of the country, with metal siding, as that is the cheaper alternative to stick built. That's the one where you bore holes and sink wood posts into the ground. Is that correct?

An actual steel (frame, trusses, etc.) building is typically much more expensive, especially with the additional engineering required for the slab. When you mention $30 to $40, is that per square foot? That's bare-bones pole barn pricing around here. Haven't heard recently, but that might not even get you a slab as part of the package. Might be cheaper where you are, but I'm not sure how much.

Can't speak for you and your priorities, but I struggle with the $ per square foot advantage of pole barns vs. knowing I'll be happier if I go with a stick built shop for myself. At this point, I lean strongly toward stick built.

A lot of people on here refer to the somewhat flimsy, in my opinion, lightweight versatube type buildings as steel buildings.

Others use the term to describe buildings with a structural iron frame.

The former seem more akin to glorified temporary carports, while the latter have similarities to commercial or industrial structures.

On the other hand, both my garage and shop are stick built structures with metal ProRib sheathing. I describe both, probably technically incorrectly, as steel buildings when giving people instructions on how to find my place.

 

[jscoggin]

I have a 2.5 car attached garage and a 26x26 detached garage, and need/want more workspace. I'm 66 and crawling around under my cars just isn't fun anymore. My first thought is to add roughly a 30x50x14 addition along the back of the existing garage, the downside is the gable end is at the front/rear, makes the roof a little more difficult. I thought about adding "shed" roofs with additional parking on both sides to help hide the addition at the rear, as well as additional parking on one side, patio on the other. I have also wrestled with the idea of a separate steel building, but I want something that doesn't look industrial. I am not in an "exclusive" area, but want something that does not detract from curb appeal.
I have "heard" that a steel building, by the time you enhance it's appearance and the extras you are in the neighborhood of the costs of a stick built. I also "heard" that putting an addition on an existing structure can cost more than totally new construction.
Are there any generic costs per square foot for stick vs: steel? I realize there are a ton of variables, but just trying to get the thought process moving. I live in northern Alabama, about 15 miles from the TN state line if that helps. Again, I am only in the very initial planning stage, but I plan to get something going this year. I would like to keep this in the $30-$40 range if possible.

Thanks!

In my opinion, steel has only two advantages over stick built, cost and termites. Outside of that, stick built hands down. It's true that stick built is more expensive but yes, if you're planning on adding brick/stone and gussying it up, those price differences begin to shrink.

It's also true that most builders would prefer to do a new stand alone build vs tying into something existing. When you tie into an existing structure, it adds cost, complexity and more often than not, problems that need to be fixed before attaching an addition. You also open yourself up to losing the grandfathering of any old issues and may be forced to bring things back up to date with code.

Prices vary so much that it would be impossible to ballpark it for you unless someone is familiar with your particular region. However, if wanting to stay within your budget of $30-40 per sqft, you really only have one option, steel. Pure cost on concrete, frame labor, frame materials, roofing and siding would put pricing of a stick built far above that range.

 

[readhead]

I sell and erect both tube steel and red iron buildings. Both have their place. The advantage to tube steel buildings is ease of erecting and lower concrete cost. The advantage to red iron buildings is large open space and height.

In the OP's case I recommend wood because of the size of the building. Adding on to an existing wood structure can be done with steel but will be easier and less expensive with wood. As far as a detached building it can have any kind of exterior finish but it is more expensive to apply to a metal building. Not impossible but more labor intensive.

There is generally a crossover point for steel versus wood. In my area it is around 1,500 square feet. At that point you could go either way. Below that wood will be a better buy. Above that steel. Of course there are always exceptions but that number usually works.

To address the "flimsy" building comment. There are cheap tube steel buildings out there. It is honestly a very sketchy business. I started out with one of those companies and very quickly cut them off. I sell Versatube because they offer a much better quality product. I have installed their buildings with a ninety pound roof snow load and never worried a bit. There are lots of ways to build a building. From mud and sticks to steel and concrete. The exterior can look the same but have vastly different construction underneath.

It comes down to education. Finding the right products and people to supply your needs is key no matter what the budget.

 

[sberry]

The crossover may be higher than 1500 but a lot of it certainly depends on the interior finish, height.

 

[Homerr]

With any structure addition minimize the tying in to the existing building by teeing off at 90 degrees and/or connecting with a breezeway.

Here's a pole barn example, but applies to steel or wood studs as well.

 

[Toomanytools?]

Depends what you want to do. Here a stick built would be a 2x6 framed wall on a pad or footing, steel would most likely be a red or gray steel framed building. Then a pole building using a 6x6 or bigger post with girts to tie together. In my case a 3000 sqft pole building was around $23/square foot, that is with 2 foot eve overhangs, wainscotting around the whole building, 10 windows, 2 man doors , 2/12 x 14 insulated garage doors, concrete, roof insulated. I also sheathed the whole building in OSB and wrapped with house wrap. Exterior and roof metal. My quote for like building stick framed was $43/sqft.
Pros and cons to all types, if you build a pole barn and finish inside walls you will have some framing to do. If I did it again I would really lean towards a stick framed or a SIP building, but I do like my shop.

 

[nadogail]

Termites, they don't eat steel.

 

[My Old Tools]

I went with red iron because I like clear spans, including my loft and under it, and I like strong. I had it designed with an I-beam down the center to carry a 1 ton hoist on a traveler. My loft holds big tools like bandsaws and wood lathes waiting for restoration.

 

[lakelandcat]

It all starts with a vision. Are you going to put in a lift? Do you want a office or just shop space? Sound deadening and insulation? Farm, rural, or residential? Local zoning laws? Do you want to match existing house? Ask yourself if it had to turn into something else what could it be and how would it effect my property value and taxes? Sometimes the 1000 little unimportant questions will supply the answers. Yes termites don't eat steel but wood won't rust. One thing for sure nothing is going to get cheaper. Personaly I like stick just because I think it gives me more options. Thats just my opinion, the next guy will tell you something else. The most important part is to enjoy the ride, good luck and keep us posted. Mike

 

[davekp]

I just had a 650 sq ft garage built. Here in central Florida, Wood (other than roof trusses) is not even a consideration. All the contractors do concrete block. Partly because of wind mitigation requirements, I assume. Builders for a small job like a garage are hard to find, as are their subs. I needed a lot of site work but was at $100/ sq ft. No heat, A/C or plumbing.
It is really important to investigate all your zoning and code requirements.

 

[Showkey]

It is really important to investigate all your zoning and code requirements.

X2 ^^^^^^^^^plus double check subdivision restrictions , home owners association or covenant restrictions on “metal” building.

Metal as has its own issues with insulation, condensation and moisure management.

 

[davekp]

Also, insurance costs can vary widely with construction type.
Also, my collector car insurance probably would not be available for a pole barn.

 

[sjvicker]

The crossover may be higher than 1500 but a lot of it certainly depends on the interior finish, height.

Sberry, do you have any more pictures of your shop foundation? I've never seen a metal building set on a raised foundation.

Sent from my Nexus 9 using The Garage Journal mobile app

 

[brownbagg]

my 24x30x10 metal building was $5000 with slab in 2008

www.acemetalbuildings.com

 

[matt_i]

I thought I read about "addition". If its something to be merged with your existing structure then hands-down keep it the same type of framing. Attaching metal to wood is a huge pain.

If you went full metal my recommendation is for a 3:12 pitch roof and eave overhangs all around just like a wood building. Its my personal belief it looks better.

Imo whatever you do you want insulated. The comment about termites is a valid one. A row of filled block or a short poured wall would keep them away from your framing.

 

[sberry]

' I raised it a foot with foundation. That is not my shop, it's storage. Stop is similar but the footer is not as tall, it's only 6 inches.

 

[kbs2244]

If looks are at all inportent, stick built is much more adaptable to matching existing buildings.

 

[mannydantyla]

I have a stick-built garage with a WOOD FLOOR! Trust me, you don't want a wooden floor, especially when the joists are spaced out 24" and half of them are eaten by termites. Why did they even bother installing a garage door with a concrete driveway leading up to it??