VISE REPAIR 101 all vise repairs, lubricants, sources for parts and the tricks to fix

[autopts]

A little trick I use to get the jaw insert screws out is to use a ratcheting right angle screwdriver before disassembling the vise. I lightly clamp the screwdriver in the screw between the 2 jaws. This way the bit can't "cam" out of the screw. As the screw starts to come out, gradually open the vise, working the vise handle and the screwdriver at the same time. Have removed many mangled screws with this method.
HTH, Jim

Wow!! That's a new one one me, I love this thread.

 

[autopts]

Here another one. If you have a broken collar screw on your bullet, ,when you are drilling it' you don't have to extract it. Remember the threads go all the way thru into the cavity. Once the bit bites it will spin the screw CW into the Dynamic. Another one, I have guys asking for thrust washers, remember if you have a bullet earlier then 1998 you can't use it, I've tried and the spindle binds when almost closed.

 

[autopts]

That Reed 4AC is made by Columbian. Its actually a 206M3 If one shops around for the Reed model, you might find it is cheaper then the Columbian. I have a Columbian 205M3 and its a brute. The spindle handle dia is just under 1" .979 , bigger then Wilton's C3 and the threads for the side handles are 7/8"
On the 4 1/2" model, Columbian has one swivel handle, their Reed equivalent has dual handles

Footnote, If you have a stationary 205 or 505 and need a swivel base, you know Columbian wants its weight in Gold. A C2 base and inner ring fit perfect. All you will have to buy are 2 7/8" reducers to go to 5/8-11 Case closed

 

[va.grouseman]

There needs to be an index or rolodex of all these good tips that have been presented in this thread.---It's an encyclopedia of info if one could just remember where they were posted.---Not even Google could find them all.

 

[gman007]

Nick
Thanks again for all the great tips and tricks. They are all appreciated and should come in handy.

 

[Shiftless]

I too have learned much from this thread. Thanks guys...

 

[drivesitfar]

Auto: thanks for answering my question if Columbian makes the new REED 4c's. does Columbian own REED or just under contract to produce some of their vises if you might happen to know.

I owned a Columbian 205 M2 and it was a beast, but I like my Reed 2c better so when I had a chance to trade my Columbian to a friend for his Reed 404.5 I didn't hesitate. if I remember correctly though the old Columbian 204 M2 weighed about the same as my Reed 2c at about 82 pounds each.

VA: I started a few posts at the beginnings of this thread for fixes & repairs, lubricants and other important information and just got too busy to keep taking information from posts to put in those posts.

ALL: I've read every post on this thread since I started it about 4 or maybe 5 years ago and while I do remember most of the tricks, fixes and awesome restorations I certainly didn't memorize all of them. that said if any of you might have an issue finding something you saw on this thread and can't find it just ask.

if any of you would like to gather some of the important fixes mentioned in this thread and put them on a post I'd be happy to cut and post and put it in one of the early posts say #10 and we can add a few as good ideas get posted on here in the future.

a vise is fairly simple as far as taking apart, cleaning and putting back together, but having one that is maybe 70-100 years old that doesn't have any directions or new parts handy it's sure nice to have a few pointers to get you on the right path.

also if any of you might want to just spiff up or clean your vise and you have questions just post up a few pictures of your vise and your thoughts or questions and maybe we can help you.

there is NO SUCH THING AS A DUMB QUESTION unless you are asking the same one after getting the answers already cause we are all here to learn and maybe re learn some skills.

speaking of lubrication is there a favorite grease that might be new to the market that works better on a vise or will most any grease work as well as the other? who wants to list their favorite grease and maybe we can get an idea of which one might be the favorite among us?

 

[gman007]

Drives
I believe a number of us here use the Mobil 1 Synthetic Grease. In fairness I must add that I learned about it from I think Outlaw on this thread sometimes back (thanks Outlaw). It works great!

 

[Shiftless]

Count me in as another user of Mobil One synthetic grease. I picked up a one pound can of it and figured with one or two smears at a time on a vise, a pound would last me just about the rest of my life. I have a snap on plastic cover on the can so it’s easy to snap off the top, dig a bit out with a finger and that’s it.

Operating range from -40F up to 302F...that should cover it as far as vise usage right?

Thanks outlaw!
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[autopts]

Auto: thanks for answering my question if Columbian makes the new REED 4c's. does Columbian own REED or just under contract to produce some of their vises if you might happen to know.

They were making them but haven't seen any is sometime.

 

[drivesitfar]

AutoPts: thanks and I really don't pay too much attention to what is offered now in the NEW VISE MARKET even though I get asked A LOT.

Shift & 007 & Outlaw: thanks for the recommendation of Mobil 1. are you guys applying with bare fingers, rubber gloves or a Popsicle stick or other method?

ALL: I used to use grease my gramps gave me in 3 coffee cans out of his 55 gallon drum he had in his shop to grease up his big D9, D6 and other big logging machines. when I finally ran out of those coffee cans full of grease i thought i'd try the RED GREASE by TriFlow lubricants since i always liked the Triflow lubricant for general needs. it's got a great little application tip and a cap and I rarely get any grease on me, but I'm going to need another option cause TriFlow has I think quit making their red grease.

if anybody else has a grease they use or have heard great things about feel free to mention it here cause there are a few of us that could maybe use something new to try.

thanks in advance!!

 

[trijeff]

Hey Drives, I used to use a product made for bicycle bearings for a lot of different applications, including lubing vises. It was called Bull Shot and also a thick red grease. After I ran out of my last tub I went to get some more, but alas, it is no longer made. After doing a bit of research it turns out that Bull Shot was likely just plain ol' marine grease rebranded for cyclists. I have a few other synthetics I am working my way through now but, when the time comes to re-up I am going to go with the Mobil 1. During the Bull Shot research Mobil 1 came up time and time again as a favorite.

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[Shiftless]

Drives:
I’m not worried about getting Mobil One on .25 sq. inches of my skin when I dip my finger into the can. If I’m wearing thin nitrile gloves I dip in with a gloved finger but I don’t glove up just to grease a slide. Mobil One doesn’t stain skin like the old black axle grease you used to use.

 

[gman007]

Drives:
I’m not worried about getting Mobil One on .25 sq. inches of my skin when I dip my finger into the can. If I’m wearing thin nitrile gloves I dip in with a gloved finger but I don’t glove up just to grease a slide. Mobil One doesn’t stain skin like the old black axle grease you used to use.

Same here, many times I just use my bare fingers.

 

[chrisnazzy]

Since we're talking about the Mobil 1 grease, here is a pic I've shared before but maybe some didn't see it. This is my 10 year old daughter Hailee working on a Rock Island 571 with me. I made a thrust washer to eliminate a tiny bit of backlash and she is applying some of our favorite lubricant here before final assembly. She's only wearing the mask because she said it smelled funny when I was drilling the washer.

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[va.grouseman]

One more for Mobile 1 Red.---I get it in the grease gun tubes and pump it on to the screw, the swivel jaw, etc. and then move it around with a finger.

I didn't used to use Red Grease until I saw it oozing out of the swivel base and moving parts of a couple of Autopts's vises and it made me think, this man appreciates a good piece of machinery and is doing something for it.---The Red just spelled good maintenance.---That's why I bought a couple of monsters off of Autopts.---Thanks Nick.

 

[Fred Knox]

I recently purchased a vintage mid-size vise on Craigslist. It is a vintage Columbian 603, but it may be a version of it (A?). It has 3" jaws, no anvil, opens greater than 6" and weighs about 30 lbs. If anyone can shed light on what version it is, I would appreciate it (it does not line up with the information in the Vises2017Vr.10.xlsx spreadsheet).

My vise repair question is the jaw faces hit at the bottom, but not at the top. There are no cracks or weld marks on the vise (looks relatively unused). On one of the pictures you can see light where the top of the jaws should meet. What do I do to adjust the jaws to close cleanly and parallel to each other? I did not want to just start filing the bottom portion of the jaws especially as the serrations are uniform and hardly used. Thanks for any suggestions/advice in advance.

 

[va.grouseman]

You might try a thin stainless steel shim underneath the slide that's the same width as the slide and see if it won't jack the Dynamic jaw up to where the two meet flush.---Sometimes POs fail to slap some grease on the Static base and over the years of use it wears a little from steel to steel action.---Amazing what a dab of grease or a drop of oil will do for machinery.---A dab of grease can cover a multitude of sins.

 

[KMScott]

I recently purchased a vintage mid-size vise on Craigslist. It is a vintage Columbian 603, but it may be a version of it (A?). It has 3" jaws, no anvil, opens greater than 6" and weighs about 30 lbs. If anyone can shed light on what version it is, I would appreciate it (it does not line up with the information in the Vises2017Vr.10.xlsx spreadsheet).

My vise repair question is the jaw faces hit at the bottom, but not at the top. There are no cracks or weld marks on the vise (looks relatively unused). On one of the pictures you can see light where the top of the jaws should meet. What do I do to adjust the jaws to close cleanly and parallel to each other? I did not want to just start filing the bottom portion of the jaws especially as the serrations are uniform and hardly used. Thanks for any suggestions/advice in advance.

Post your spec:s and I will add your vise to the spreadsheet.

The Jaw misalignment could also be from the Static jaw area, I have restored a couple Columbians and seen this issue before. I believe that there is not enough material surrounding the jaws and the cast material is easly moved from clamping. This issue was present on the four I restored and made new jaws for. The main reason I do not support and build Columbian jaws.

 

[Outlawmws]

Wow, Made some converts on the M1!

Drives, On the M1, I generally use an acid brush as, like VA, I have been using it out of a grease gun cartridge, but as a canister, (it had been cut down to about 1/2 length as I use it up) I keep the same acid brush with the cartridge in a folded paper towel so it keeps it from getting messy. I think I'm on my second brush.

I only recently found a 1 lb can of the M1. I bought that as its easier to get to for packing wheel bearings. (By hand but generally with gloves on so I can just toss then and not be covered in the M1.)

 

[Ststephen7]

Parker 434 1/2 Parts?

Hey guys,

yesterday I picked up a pretty nice Parker 434 1/2 for $75. Overall it is in great condition, however...

Someone cut the wrench, and then thought better of it and 'welded' a piece of scrap metal to what was left!?



Does anyone here have a no 2 wrench they are willing to sell?. The nut is a little chewed up, and it is repairable, although I would replace it if I found another in better condition. The wrench and nut would be great to find...

I also need ONE pipe jaw... I have no idea why only one would be missing, while still retaining the pin and the one next to it? Oh well...



Does anyone have one pipe jaw?

There are a couple of gouges in/near one jaw... not sure what could have caused that...





Thank you!

Steve

 

[va.grouseman]

Here you go Stst.


https://www.ebay.com/itm/Vintage-Ch...0:g:LRkAAOSwzE5caaSH:rk:1:pf:1&frcectupt=true


https://www.ebay.com/itm/CHARLES-PA...c:g:1zsAAOSwcH5cIB2C:rk:2:pf:1&frcectupt=true

 

[Ststephen7]

I just saw one of those... the other (cheaper) did not show up in my search. Oh well... I got one.

Thank you!

Now I just need one pipe jaw

 

[Outlawmws]

Those gouges were probably caused by a cutting torch

 

[The KickStand]

A couple of easy questions. Where do I access the spreadsheet for locating parts? More specifically, I have a Columbian 224 1/2 with a bad spindle nut and maybe some replacement jaws. Thanks for your patience with my newbie question!


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[gman007]

A couple of easy questions. Where do I access the spreadsheet for locating parts? More specifically, I have a Columbian 224 1/2 with a bad spindle nut and maybe some replacement jaws. Thanks for your patience with my newbie question!


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Kick
While there is a spread sheet that lists vises and their stats, I am not aware of any "spreadsheet for locating parts" .

Yo might want to search eBay for parts for your vise.

 

[va.grouseman]

There is a G.J. thread called (The Unofficial Vise Parts Swap Thread), you might try.

 

[mdkcal]

Greetings,

I have a Reed 32 vise I picked up from my mom. It appears to be around 1907 to 1917 vintage after seeing catalogs from those years. This came from a Los Angeles area machine shop and my mom's had it since the 70's. It was covered in so much grease and crud, it make it hard to see any defects. I was planning on refurbishing it and mounting it to my new workbench. It has a crack at the rear end of the slide with obvious signs of getting hammered on. That would explain why it wouldn't open very far. After taking it apart and degreasing it, the crack is longer than I thought (more visible from the underside). I stopped drilled it 3.25 from the end, but it looks like the crack is at least 4 inches long. How big of a crack is too big to repair? I don't do welding and I suspect hiring somebody (who knows what they're doing) from this area will be big bucks.

Mike

 

[va.grouseman]

Mdkcal, that's not a hard fix and that old combination Reed is worth fixing.---It is a through the bench swivel base vise and those old Reeds with the deep notches in the base lock down tighter than regular friction lock-downs IMO.---Someone that knows how to groove/grind the crack and weld, could have that repaired in a few minutes.---Shouldn't cost very much.---Take some close-ups of the damage and show them to a few machine shops around and get some quotes.

 

[gman007]

Greetings,

I have a Reed 32 vise I picked up from my mom. It appears to be around 1907 to 1917 vintage after seeing catalogs from those years. This came from a Los Angeles area machine shop and my mom's had it since the 70's. It was covered in so much grease and crud, it make it hard to see any defects. I was planning on refurbishing it and mounting it to my new workbench. It has a crack at the rear end of the slide with obvious signs of getting hammered on. That would explain why it wouldn't open very far. After taking it apart and degreasing it, the crack is longer than I thought (more visible from the underside). I stopped drilled it 3.25 from the end, but it looks like the crack is at least 4 inches long. How big of a crack is too big to repair? I don't do welding and I suspect hiring somebody (who knows what they're doing) from this area will be big bucks.

Mike

Mike
Welcome to GJ. That is a very nice find even despite the cracked slide

There are at least two members here that have done a fantastic job of fixing cracked slides. KMSCOTT (AKA Dr Scott) who is the GJ resident machinist wizard as well as Mark_in_Indiana who is another very talented resource. Unfortunately even though I am 100% sure I saved the link to Dr. Scott's work, right now I can not find it (does anyone have it handy?) . But I did find the link to Mark's fix (see below, specifically post # 4 which addresses the cracked slide).

https://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=358095

Both approaches are similar in nature. First drill a counter sunk hole through the top of the slide and use a bolt to tightly bind the two cracked side together and then further reinforce this fix with brazing the crack.

Good luck

 

[Fretters]

You only need a small hole at the end of the crack. Wipe some white spirit or such on the slide. When it evaporates from the surface, for a short while you'll be left with a wet line where it's still in the crack, allowing you to more readily see where the end of the crack is.

 

[CobaltForge]

Hello,

This is my first post on The Garage Journal forums and I had some questions about a Rock Island Mfg Co 72C vise I recently picked up from a friend. I've done some minimal reading about the history of these vises and how to disassemble them because I am in the process of restoring it. I've managed to take everything apart except the main bolt holding the swiveling body to the main jaw. I have attached some pictures to further explain the issue (unable to remove the bolt), any advice is greatly appreciated!

 

[gman007]

Hello,

This is my first post on The Garage Journal forums and I had some questions about a Rock Island Mfg Co 72C vise I recently picked up from a friend. I've done some minimal reading about the history of these vises and how to disassemble them because I am in the process of restoring it. I've managed to take everything apart except the main bolt holding the swiveling body to the main jaw. I have attached some pictures to further explain the issue (unable to remove the bolt), any advice is greatly appreciated!

Cobalt
Honestly at least looking at the last two photos (it would have helped if the photos were bigger so that one could see the bolt clearly) that main bolt does not look like a bolt anymore as it seems to be mangled and damaged. You might want to weld a hex nut to the "bolt" and after applying generous amount of Kroil for few days, try using the welded hex nut. You might even have to resort to heating and cooling as well if that attempt fails.

 

[CobaltForge]

Huh, thanks for the tips, I'll properly crop future shared photos, the whole forum thing is new to me. I can try out that idea you suggested and see where it takes me. Thanks!

 

[Asport]

Cobalt
Honestly at least looking at the last two photos (it would have helped if the photos were bigger so that one could see the bolt clearly) that main bolt does not look like a bolt anymore as it seems to be mangled and damaged. You might want to weld a hex nut to the "bolt" and after applying generous amount of Kroil for few days, try using the welded hex nut. You might even have to resort to heating and cooling as well if that attempt fails.

Cobalt, Like Gman says, it looks to be stripped and may take some persuasion. It should be a normal bolt that unscrews. Nothing special holding it from turning other than corrosion. A few taps with a hammer can help when you add the Kroil to help it get into the threads.

 

[454ragtop]

Cobalt, looks like the bolt has 2 straight sides for use with an open end or adjustable wrench. Appears someone did some final tightening with a chisel, catching the edge and driving it around. May have to do the same in the opposite direction to loosen it.

 

[mdkcal]

Has anybody ever tried "metal stitching" repairs on vise slide cracks?
I don't have enough posts to include a link yet. The video is youtube.com/watch?v=Pq0wfU4ZaKk
This looks like a good method.

 

[MayerMR]

So I've got an interesting one that I've not seen before, so I thought I'd post about it.

I'm in the midst of restoring a rather, erm, let's say, well-used, Wilton C0. I've got it stripped down and cleaned and have ordered some new jaws from our very own Kevin Scott, which where my issues started. Not with the jaws, of course, which are simply works of metallic art, but in how said jaws lined up. Not only did the dynamic jaw hang just a bit lower than the static jaw, but in the last 1/2 rotation or so before the jaws met, the dynamic jaw would rotate slightly, and they would be off-enter.

So until I noticed the small off-center twist there at the end of the movement, I was concerned that I had a bent slide, but after noticing it, I began to think that maybe just the key in the slide was could be worn.

After taking some measurements, it turns out that yes, the key was quite worn, causing the slope/play in the jaw. The channel in the main-body is right at .502", while the channel in the slide was right at .5", the section of the key that protrudes is between .487-.488". I believed that I was going to need to machine a new key out of some square stock, but turns out you can actually purchase 1/2'' x 5/16" key stock, which are the cross-sectional dimensions of the key I needed.

Well it came in today and I thought I'd put up some photos of the trial fitting. The new key fits in the main body perfectly and I believe it will help with the issue quite well.

I'll post an update after I get it refitted and replaced.

 

[rusty65]

Greetings,



I have a Reed 32 vise I picked up from my mom. It appears to be around 1907 to 1917 vintage after seeing catalogs from those years. This came from a Los Angeles area machine shop and my mom's had it since the 70's. It was covered in so much grease and crud, it make it hard to see any defects. I was planning on refurbishing it and mounting it to my new workbench. It has a crack at the rear end of the slide with obvious signs of getting hammered on. That would explain why it wouldn't open very far. After taking it apart and degreasing it, the crack is longer than I thought (more visible from the underside). I stopped drilled it 3.25 from the end, but it looks like the crack is at least 4 inches long. How big of a crack is too big to repair? I don't do welding and I suspect hiring somebody (who knows what they're doing) from this area will be big bucks.



Mike

I have the exact same reed vise and I believe pre dates the 1912 patent date which is for the way the jaw serrations were machined into the vise jaw. The reason the vise would not have the 1908 patent is Because that one pertains to the swivel base if I’m not mistaken. So if I’m right on my theory that vise should be right around 1910. On my model I found what I believe to be a 7-11 date stamp to somewhat back my theory.


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[Shiftless]

mdkcal:
Welcome to the group. I have one of those old Reeds too! I found mine rusted up solid in a dumpster in front of a house a few blocks away. Thanks again to my mailman who alerted me to the situation.

Before and after pics below.

Here is a catalog page in case you’re interested in that kind of thing.

Thanks to whoever it was who first posted the image of that catalog page. I saved it.