They’re just amazon cheapies, about $25 each. One of them had a really large air bubble in the gauge. I drained and re-filled with mineral oil.
In ground flush mount scissor lift
- Thread starter Cyclehead
- Start date
They’re just amazon cheapies, about $25 each. One of them had a really large air bubble in the gauge. I drained and re-filled with mineral oil.
Here are the blocks that came with mine.
Also a picture of a light car sitting on the blocks (about 2400 lb car). I've seen them smushed down more depending on which end of the car is heavier.
I finally saw where the up-limit switch goes. It hits the bar when the lift is fully extended. The bracket was screwed in place backwards, but it was pretty obvious. I had to bend it up a little to hit the bar in the center.
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This is the frustrating anchor that spun. I smashed the threads while hammering it into the hole. Tried grinding off the damaged threads but it still wouldn't free the nut. I cut a slot and grabbed it with a screwdriver. After I cleaned up the threads (and held it still using the slot) I got the anchor grabbed properly. And this was the 7th of 8 anchor bolts! And the only one that gave any trouble.
The harbor freight SDS Plus drill was fantastic. I used a piece of tape on the drill for depth gauge. I think the concrete was still a little green. It didn't make clouds of dust, mostly just a little pile by the drill bit. I held a vacuum close while drilling.
The harbor freight SDS Plus drill was fantastic. I used a piece of tape on the drill for depth gauge. I think the concrete was still a little green. It didn't make clouds of dust, mostly just a little pile by the drill bit. I held a vacuum close while drilling.
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mike93lx
ALLIANCE MEMBER
I used a Bosch bit from Lowe’s with four cutter blades. Since the 7th hole gave me trouble that does point to something different. I didn’t notice any problem with the 8th hole though. I really think it was just my sloppy hammer work. All of the holes were so easy to drill. It took maybe 15 seconds to get 4” deep on each one.
I had some minor panic with the spinning anchor. I really didn’t want an ugly stripped anchor, or a cut off anchor in a useless hole. Nor was I interested in drilling a new hole through steel.
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On to improvements! I got the pressure gauge hooked up and reading. Plus I got the circuit changed to delete the air solenoid while going up, so now the latch fingers slide and click as I'm raising the car. The air solenoid still engages with the down button.
I bought a 1-1500psi hydraulic gauge, thinking the lift will seldom max out at 3000psi. I think I did the right thing. It sits at 200 psi when idle, then runs up to 800 psi while lifting my light 2400 lb car.
The schematic was an adventure. None of the components were labeled. Wiring numbers don't match my console. However with the help of a smart guy in the office, I got some good instructions on which wire to move. I moved one of the wires feeding the air solenoid from terminal "3" to terminal "7". That did it. Very happy the smoke didn't come out!
I bought a 1-1500psi hydraulic gauge, thinking the lift will seldom max out at 3000psi. I think I did the right thing. It sits at 200 psi when idle, then runs up to 800 psi while lifting my light 2400 lb car.
The schematic was an adventure. None of the components were labeled. Wiring numbers don't match my console. However with the help of a smart guy in the office, I got some good instructions on which wire to move. I moved one of the wires feeding the air solenoid from terminal "3" to terminal "7". That did it. Very happy the smoke didn't come out!
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That bubble is there for a reason. One of which is so that you can see the fluid level and know if it has leaked or is empty. i.e. if you don't see a bubble you assume it is empty. that is an aircraft inspection technique. Other sources on the web indicate that it's used for dampening and to allow for expansion when the gauge heats up. I don't know about the dampening, but the heating up makes sense to me.
jtbinvalrico
Well-known member
What kind/make of hose did you use to connect your hydraulic pressure gauge to the pump? Got some pictures of that part? Thanks!
Sent from my SM-G960U using Tapatalk
The hydraulic shop fabbed it up for me. A full-size hose same as the actuator pressure lines, with 3/8 JIC fittings, and one adapter to pipe thread to fit the gauge. I guessed at the length in the shop. Then realized I should have done more careful measuring when I went to fit it into my console. However I got it to work by relocating the electronics tray about 1 inch forward, leaving a gap at the back for the hydraulic line to pass through. THat hose is really stiff and doesn’t like to bend!
I think the guts are more sophisticated than a simple orifice. It has a window of pressures that will pass. Above the window it clamps off all the hydraulic flow.
Here’s a tidied up version of my schematic, with component labels.
The red shows which wire I moved to disable the air solenoid on the “UP” button.
The trick was to disable it only during “UP” functions, yet retain solenoid function on “DOWN”.
I had to get help with the wiring logic!
The red shows which wire I moved to disable the air solenoid on the “UP” button.
The trick was to disable it only during “UP” functions, yet retain solenoid function on “DOWN”.
I had to get help with the wiring logic!
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My lift started making an odd noise today. When I press the "down" button there is a loud cavitating-fluid type noise coming from the lift (not the pump box). It is quiet when I press the "lock" button and the lift lowers. As long as I hold the "down" button, the noise continues coming from the lift. I thought I had just somehow gotten low on fluid - even though there are no leaks anywhere. The reservoir looked low, so I topped it up. However the noise continues. Everything works fine, it's just the new noise that concerns me. Video is here:
Any ideas are appreciated!
Bleed the system of air thoroughly. Maybe run the lift up and down several times, and with Down held, cycle it to purge air.
Check all hoses, inlet lines, fittings for tightness and damage; ensure no hose is collapsing under suction.
Inspect the filter / screens; replace or clean them.
See whether changing hydraulic fluid (if old or contaminated) helps; old fluid with entrained air or moisture makes problems worse.
Monitor whether noise correlates with fluid temperature: is it louder when fluid is cold? That could mean viscosity or flow issues.
Check all hoses, inlet lines, fittings for tightness and damage; ensure no hose is collapsing under suction.
Inspect the filter / screens; replace or clean them.
See whether changing hydraulic fluid (if old or contaminated) helps; old fluid with entrained air or moisture makes problems worse.
Monitor whether noise correlates with fluid temperature: is it louder when fluid is cold? That could mean viscosity or flow issues.
No air in the hydraulic system, I ran the lift up and down several times, checked the hydraulic hoses, inlet lines, fittings for tightness and damage... THEN I remembered a problem a few months ago, where the coiled air pressure line to the safety lock disconnects had developed a split. That was it! The plastic coiled line had developed another split. That's why the noise came from the lift, and not from the pump. So a tidbit for others - watch the coiled air lines. They like to split!