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Ugh. Garage door spring broke. Average $ to repair?

CN Spots

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The wife heard a bang when she opened the garage door yesterday and I found out when I got home that the spring had broken. Based on the number of death warnings posted around that thing I'm not going to attempt a diy job so I'll call a pro. Anybody know what that type of repair runs? I have no idea.

12' non insulated door.

Thanks!
 
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Jeepster04

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Wasn't really that bad to replace mine. Think the spring was $150 or so and it beat having to deal with the local idiots.
 

strutaeng

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TORSION SPRING OR EXTENSION SPRING?

I had a torsion spring break on my old house garage. I also heeded warnings about the dangers and called a company. I believe $150 installed some 5 years ago...

The house I live in now has garage with extension spring go out. Easier to replace than torsion. I think I paid $40 or for the pair and did it myself in about 1 hour.
 

ddurrett896

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If they are extension just raise the door and replace, there is no load on the spring.
If it's torsion, make a call!
 

yeldogt

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I agree -- be very careful if a Torsion. Call someone.

good time to have a door tune up if any issues or old parts. The pros do this every day and can tweak a door in no time to make is smooth.
 

nes999

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I called a guy. I think i paid 100 or 150 all in.

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Bluedodge

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On a 12' door, you probably have two torsions springs. $28 each at the hardware store. Another $3 for a short length of 7/16" or 1/2" steel to cut in half for winding bars.

Take your time and it's not a big deal.

About a one hour job.
 

Joatha

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I had this happen about 6 weeks ago - 1 spring broke on the door I use most. I called in the pros (because I was paranoid as well) and they fixed it (replaced BOTH springs on the door that broke) and then tuned up (lube and alignment check/adjustments) all of my garage doors for about $240. FYI, I have 5 garage doors total.

None of the others gets used as much as the one that broke does and everything was in pretty good order - 1 other door needs a minor adjustment.
 

fang123

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There is really nothing hard about replacing either type of spring. I've done both.
On a torsion spring a couple pieces of rebar or socket extensions will work to wind the tension in.
Torsion is pretty easy if there is only one.
 
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dclassical

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Understand how the torsion spring works. Be careful and mindful when replacing it, don't try to multitask or be distracted with kids or animals (they should not be there anyway).

I replaced mine. How are they more dangerous than using a lathe, mill, lifting a car, using a drill press, ...?
 

yeldogt

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It's when something goes wrong ....

.... also think it is one of those items that a DIY does not understand can be dangerous. A few years ago when I had a door looked at the guy immediately told me the springs were not correct. He had the whole thing apart and fixed in an hour -- with the correct parts.

Need the correct rods for the spindle ... I could see how one slip and there goes a tooth.
 

yeldogt

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Understand how the torsion spring works. Be careful and mindful when replacing it, don't try to multitask or be distracted with kids or animals (they should not be there anyway).

I replaced mine. How are they more dangerous than using a lathe, mill, lifting a car, using a drill press, ...?


You would think that people would understand that lifting a car is dangerous -- but they still do it in ways unsafe. In HS shop class learning how dangerous the equipment was day one ... it's not obvious to some people.

I work in Trauma -- the **** that happens is unbelievable.

I'm not talking about idiots that cut lawns in flip flops .. I'm talking professional people that hurt themselves doing something that they do everyday ... some things are dangerous and doing it once w/o any guidance is foolish.
 

ddawg16

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When I rebuilt my garage, I took down my old roll up door and put it aside.

When I re-installed it I had to set the tension. I don't think it's that dangerous if you use some common sense (I know, lacking for some)

I raised to door up to it's full open position....installed clamps so it could't roll down.

I rolled the lift cable up so all of the cable was on the spool.

I then adjusted the tension on the spring so the cable was always under tension....at this point there is not a lot of force on that spring.

Repeat for the other side.

Remove clamps and lower door. if it takes too much effort to raise, put it all the way back up and toss in a 1/2 turn on both sides.

Repeat until the door does not roll down on it's own and takes minimal effort to raise and lower.

Tighten the set screws a bit more...hook up garage door opener....DONE!
 

Hot Rod Grampa

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No you don't need to be a rocket scientist to change it, but do not use the wrong tools if you do decide to go at it. Stored energy is a little different than a power tool. The tension in the spring, or the stored energy, is equal to the weight of the door, after it has the mechanical advantage of the drum added to it. When winding the spring, you are putting the energy into the spring, with the bars. Also the spring is directional. It could only go on one way correctly. As with any other task, you pay the pro for what they know, not what they do. Any monkey can change a spring. Using the correct diameter of the spring for the weight of the door, the height of the door, if the spring is left wind or right wind, is there one or two this is why you have a pro do it.
 
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CN Spots

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It's a torsion spring. Just one. It made it 20 years before failing so I guess a coupe hundred bucks ever 2 decades ain't bad. At least now I have a ball park price when I call for repair. I'll watch him do it and tackle the next one myself.

Thanks!!
 

matt_i

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I've wondered some about the spring thing. I wonder if its a strength thing? It doesn't seem like much more than 75 ft-lbs by pure WAG. Or maybe the bars aren't long enough in some cases? It can get a little tiring winding 32 x 1/4 turns but as long as the bar doesn't leave the socket one can take a short rest.

I paid $75 to replace both 32" torsion springs about a month ago after one broke, I got the "super duty 25k cycle springs" for an extra $10 each. Not sure if purchasing that feature just entered me into the "idiot of the month club" twice or its an actual real technical improvement in the quality of the wire but I felt better about it.
 
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Dave Nelson

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I just purchased and installed 2 springs 218x2x25 1/2 for $52.00 shipping included, made in USA.
 

Stuart in MN

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These discussions always bring out the people who did it themselves for 29 cents. There's no one correct answer - if you're comfortable doing it yourself, go ahead. If you're not, hire the job out. It's not that expensive.
 

Snip

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These discussions always bring out the people who did it themselves for 29 cents. There's no one correct answer - if you're comfortable doing it yourself, go ahead. If you're not, hire the job out. It's not that expensive.

Heck that would be me. In my younger, broke ***, new home owner, young parent days I have be known to put the broken torsion spring back together (way before the internet and youtube) with 2-3 U-style cable clamps and rewound the spring using old rebar. Lasted around 3 years before I replaced the door. Some days you have to work with what you have.
 
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mm08822

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I installed my 2 torsion spring doors and have replaced the spring 2x on the door that gets used 20x/day.

Yes you can be beaten ****** if you don't respect what you are doing. Good potential to break your face or collar bone. Really.

So buy the right stuff and you're good to go. The right stuff is simply two 1/2" or 5/8" diameter steel rods about 18" long each. Figure out what diameter you need for a less than snug fit but certainly not a sloppy fit.

You use both rods at the same time in a hand over hand fashion. You can take a break if needed by gently resting the loaded rod against the door.

Measure your current spring - wire diameter, coil diameter, and overall length. You have to note the direction of wind also b/c there are left and right hand springs. Some doors have one spring others two.

Buy a high cycle spring on line. There are plenty of online guides to help you pick the correct one.

Once the spring is installed, you have to wind it a certain number of wraps. Mine was 7 or 8. The spring has a painted reference line on it to help you count the # of wraps. If you choose to add your own line for better visibility remember now you have to count 2x as many apparent wraps.

Leave the 2 rods above the door for next time. Last time I bought 2 springs.

If you can change a tire without dropping the car or hurting yourself with a tire iron, you can do the door spring.
 

metlmunchr

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One of mine broke several years ago. Sitting in the kitchen early one morning drinking a cup of coffee when it broke, and I thought something had fallen on the house.

Called a local garage door company in business for about 60 years to come out and fix it. Told them its a 20ft wide door as I knew that's sorta unusual. The guy there said they don't stock any springs for 20ft doors as they only run into one every couple years, and that they'd need to come by and check the spring dimensions before ordering. Said it would take a couple days to get the springs. One of their guys was headed toward a job in our end of the county that morning, and he'd call him and have him come by and check it on the way to the other job.

The man arrives and gets the dimensions, and then, in about 10 minutes, he prys the coils apart at the break and temporarily fixes it with a couple cable clamps so we can get the cars out.

The house was 40 yrs old at that time, and I knew a few of the rollers were bad, so I told him to replace all rollers when he came back. He recommended replacing the lift cables as well as he saw a couple frayed places when he inspected them.

2 trips, labor, 2 springs, full set of rollers, and a pair of lift cables. Total bill was $260. At that price I have zero interest in learning how to do it myself.
 

58Yeoman

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Many years ago, I helped an older friend do his mothers torsion spring. He did all the work; I think he just wanted me there for support.

In 1999, I built a garage that I'd bought at Menard's. It had an insulated double steel door with a torsion spring that was wound up with a reversible drill. At rest, there was a painted line across the entire spring. The directions told you how many "slashes" you would need to see when the door was adjusted properly. Easy peasy. If you had to do work on the spring, just reverse the drill and unwind it. I don't know why they all aren't like that.
 

ddawg16

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I think the mistake some people make is trying to adjust it while the door is down.

That is a lot of energy in the spring. NFW I'd try that.
 

kelpaso1

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I think the mistake some people make is trying to adjust it while the door is down.

That is a lot of energy in the spring. NFW I'd try that.

Not sure how you are explaining this right. How do you adjust the spring when the door is up blocking your access to the spring/drums?
 

slow84lx

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I think the mistake some people make is trying to adjust it while the door is down.

That is a lot of energy in the spring. NFW I'd try that.

I've adjusted my own doors over the years quite a few times, with the door down every time. Perhaps I've been doing it wrong? At least with these particular doors there is no way to access the spring winding holes with the door in the up position. Has to be tensioned with the door down. Just be careful and use 2 snug fitting winding rods hand over hand making sure that the rods are always securely in the hole before removing the other. It isn't difficult.

The winding rods are 1/2" round stock. Bought a 36" stick at the hardware store and cut it in half for 2 - 18" rods. Perfect fit in the winding holes and length. No need to spend more than necessary for metal labeled as "winding rods".

As to all of the comments on this site from those who are building this fear of torsion spring garage doors, I'd much rather wind torsion springs than use my table saw, but, I use the table saw also. All of the tools in my garage have dangerous potential if used incorrectly. We just have to respect the tool and the task.
 
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Showkey

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Figure out what you have before making the repair decision..........Wayne Dalton door you might have spring winder system.........other manufactures have their winder assist systems.

210A9338-0A7F-411E-AF72-A76D742F096B.jpg


The door down thing.....depends on the door system........very very common to adjust the spring with the door down.
 
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mm08822

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I think the mistake some people make is trying to adjust it while the door is down.

That is a lot of energy in the spring. NFW I'd try that.

It has to be torsioned while the door is down. In the down position is when the most torque is needed. That torque decreases as the door raises. In the full open position the spring is almost fully untensioned.

The spring is used as a counter balance to the door weight. If it werent present, garage door openers would look more like winches.
 

yeldogt

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It's a torsion spring. Just one. It made it 20 years before failing so I guess a coupe hundred bucks ever 2 decades ain't bad. At least now I have a ball park price when I call for repair. I'll watch him do it and tackle the next one myself.

Thanks!!


Typically the replacements are better anyway -- especially if it was a builder grade set up.

As I said above have the guy look over everything -- new rollers are $25 a set.
 

ClappedOutBport

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Don't forget torsion springs are wound different directions depending on if it's a left or a right.

I installed my own garage door at 20 years old and I didn't really think it was that scary. Understand the spring, understand what can go wrong and the corrective measures. Or if you're not comfortable with that and have the money, you could always hire a professional.
 
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Showkey

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Don't forget torsion springs are wound different directions depending on if it's a left or a right.

I installed my own garage door at 20 years old and I didn't really think it was that scary. Understand the spring, understand what can go wrong and the corrective measures. Or if you're not comfortable with that and have the money, you could always hire a professional.

Correct , Other than hire a pro part ( have your wife call if you F it up) .........that’s what the GJ is all about......learning .........NOT calling and NOT paying for things ..........not mention the inconvenience of the pro not being a pro, get the estimate, schedule the work, wait for the worker, comes late like the cable guy , does not have the right parts so it multiple trips , charges too much and still does a **** job.

The whole concept that garage door work is too complex or a huge safety concern is a little over blown. If the spring scares you.........maybe you should not be in the garage in first place, sell the tools and watch TV :lol_hitti
 
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Sevenhills1952

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Correct , Other than hire a pro part ( have your wife call if you F it up) .........that’s what the GJ is all about......learning .........NOT calling and NOT paying for things ..........not mention the inconvenience of the pro not being a pro, get the estimate, schedule the work, wait for the worker, comes late like the cable guy , does not have the right parts so it multiple trips , charges too much and still does a **** job.

The whole concept that garage door work is too complex or a huge safety concern is a little over blown. If the spring scares you.........maybe you should not be in the garage in first place, sell the tools and watch TV [emoji38]_hitti
Here we go again. Dr. Pepper snorted through my sinuses. Thanks so much![emoji16]
I've replaced a couple springs, I assume like the one pictured. I used a couple steel rods a few feet long, whatever size it was (1/2"?)...it was easy. It couldn't unwind, even if it did all I'd lose is these [emoji23][emoji38].
0befdf0c1685ce73e373dc701ea891a3.jpg
c2b8b7be901b82aca2e941a1e40eacf5.jpg
d59f9428643b5313ce67a70683dc65bf.jpg


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