VISE REPAIR 101 all vise repairs, lubricants, sources for parts and the tricks to fix

[kenc184]

You know Ken since you have a VMC you should make a new set of jaws instead of messing with the old ones. I am happy to add any jaws that are made from A2 to my monthly heat treat run at no charge. This saves a bunch of bucks. Just cover shipping. I have not seen to many vises with good jaws, even if they look good they are not parallel to each other.

Thanks KMS, that's a great offer! I will take you up on that one of these days. Of course i have no clue how YOU get cross hatching on a flat surface, yes I can do it on the lathe on round bar with a knurling tool but have no idea how to do it on a flat. I am not a real machinist like yourself, just a hobby guy. The way you fixed that vice dovetail from underneath was amazing.

I have seen jaws not being parallel on many of my vises, sometimes the jaw mount - be it shelf or the C mount shoulder aren't quite parallel either. I was thinking I was getting the duds. LOL.

I guess at least when I machine the jaw top surface parallel to the mill table I have the important jaw surfaces level and even?

 

[kenc184]

I've used JB Weld many times to fix divots, bumps, and trenches and it works very well. One thing that I do as well is to take some very low grit sandpaper and use a hammer and knock it against the JB weld to give it the same look as the casting around it. Takes a little practice, but you can pretty much make it blend perfectly. Nice job on the repairs!

I have some 36 grit paper and did try it after reading your post once before on the subject but I tended to leave grit in the JB! At what point in the hardening cycle of the JB do you do this?

 

[MayerMR]

I have some 36 grit paper and did try it after reading your post once before on the subject but I tended to leave grit in the JB! At what point in the hardening cycle of the JB do you do this?

My apologies, I did omit that detail.

There are two ways you can do it. First, when it's nearly set, but still slightly tacky. No hammer required if you do at this stage, just a fairly light bit of pressure on the sand paper. The drawback to this method is that the JB Weld has to be applied in such a manner that final finish sanding to get the desired profile isn't required. It really only works when filling slight troughs and divots.

The second way is after the JB Weld is fully cured and you've sanded/shaped it to the desired profile. But now you are left with a smooth surface where there should be a sand-casted look. This is where you take your sandpaper and do you light/medium thwumps to the paper. It's true, there will be some grit transfer, but just keep going and get the look you want. When you're done, just rub a thumb over the surface and about 90% of the grit will come loose. If anything is really stubbon, a wire brush would likely knock it loose and could add to the effect. Or you can just leave the grit that is really embedded in there - that's the glorious nature of the imperfect castings. After it's all primed and painted up, no one can tell what is and isn't part of the original casting

 

[jonshonda]

Cliffs: I need to source a swivel jaw pin and possibly an entire dynamic jaw for a Parker 384-1/2 vise.


My most challenging restoration yet. Parker 384-1/2 vise. Seller posted one pic and had no details, except for the $50 asking price. Well, the dynamic jaw has been repaired as seen in one of the pics (decent repair I think?), and it had been discarded and left in the dirt to rot for who knows how long. One side was very rusty, but it really cleaned up well.

Initially I said I didn't want it, but then after looking through a few other items offered $10. The swivel pin isn't original and I am hoping to source a new one, and I will keep my eye out for a replacement dynamic jaw assembly.

Ohh the horror.

<a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/154822526@N03/48192333997/in/dateposted-public/" title="00707_xuCIOJhGk9_1200x900"><img src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/48192333997_c221e58783_c.jpg" width="800" height="600" alt="00707_xuCIOJhGk9_1200x900"></a><script async src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js" charset="utf-8"></script>

Mostly cleaned up. See all the debris on the workbench. That is about 1/2 of what came off the vise.

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It swivels, but was frozen until I put the hammer and punch to work to free the pin and swivel jaw. She was rusty.

<a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/154822526@N03/48192290006/in/dateposted-public/" title="20190703_140514"><img src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/48192290006_f88856734b_c.jpg" width="800" height="756" alt="20190703_140514"></a><script async src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js" charset="utf-8"></script>

The repair.

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I need to source a new dowel to keep the nut in place, but it seems like it is really far away from the hole for the dowel. Or does that look correct?

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[Zegekaf]

Ok so here it is. My restored Reed 104 1/2 R vise. This vise was left in the garage when I bought the house. The dynamic and static jaws were ceased up. I found this forum trying to figure out how to get this thing moving again. I used a ton of break free and kept working the jaw back n forth little by little. Then to my surprise I broke the vise. Well at least I thought I did until I read a post in here. In my effort to get this monster moving I accidentally pulled the hole spindle out. I thought I broke the collet nut inside the vise but to my relief it was a designed that way. Thank God. Now I still could not get this thing apart. After a few beers my parietal lobes started working again and I decided to use my 3 ton floor jack and set it in the vise sideways. It worked like a charm. With the vise apart I read many of your posts. I went out and bought some wire wheels and polishing wheels for my angle grinder. Beat the hell out this vise but it’s looking good again. I didn’t take a lot of pictures but I have some for your viewing pleasure. Only thing left is to paint the lettering but Lowe’s apparently does not have paint pens. Not sure what I’ll use there. Anyway, thanks for your posts and great info! It helped a lot!

 

[Zegekaf]

Some more pics. Oh and one more thing. This vise has no set screw. Anyone know what size screw that is and where you might be able to get one?

 

[MiamiVise]

After it's all primed and painted up, no one can tell what is and isn't part of the original casting

JB Weld is for vises what Bondo is for auto body.

I'm also looking for an entire swivel base nut assembly for a Reed 204R (not sure if it's the same nut for other models as well). Any help on where to go?

 

[kenc184]

Some more pics. Oh and one more thing. This vise has no set screw. Anyone know what size screw that is and where you might be able to bet one?

Damn fine vise, I have one myself, just need to get around to refurbing it.

 

[MayerMR]

JB Weld is for vises what Bondo is for auto body.

Yes, as in, used appropriately there is nothing wrong with using either product. But like Bondo, if one uses it to hide major flaws to pass along to an unsuspecting buyer, it's wrong. If I use it on any vise that I intend to sell, I tell the buyer everything I did.

But it's your restoration, do it however it pleases you.

 

[MiamiVise]

Yes, as in, used appropriately there is nothing wrong with using either product. But like Bondo, if one uses it to hide major flaws to pass along to an unsuspecting buyer, it's wrong. If I use it on any vise that I intend to sell, I tell the buyer everything I did.

But it's your restoration, do it however it pleases you.

I was saying it as a positive thing, didn't mean to sound offensive.

 

[MayerMR]

I was saying it as a positive thing, didn't mean to sound offensive.

Hey no worries.

As to your previous question. When I needed a new nut for a Reed 1C I ended up having to have Fastenal order me one. I'm not sure if it's the same for your model, but mine was a 3/4-16 fine thread bolt that is 1 3/4" long. The original is shouldered, so you'll have to find/make a bushing for it to keep it centered in the hole. Not that challenging to do with some tape to act as a mold and some of that magical JB weld discussed earlier...

 

[Momoe]

Hi all, New poster but have been learning a lot because Google keeps sending me here when I search things. Anyway, My question is as follows:
I have a no name vise (absolutely no markings, names or numbers on any part of this thing) and while stripping it down to clean, paint and lube it, I removed the main screw from the dynamic jaw by removing what I think is called the collar. it is an odd shaped retaining ring that was being held by a flange that was sticking up from the shaft of the screw. Looked like 4 cuts were made at a shallow angle on the shaft and the metal lifted so the collar wouldn't slide off. when I bent them down, they obviously broke off. now I'm wondering how to keep the collar in place when I reassemble. I may have done a crappy job explaining it but it would be part #2 in the picture. Note that this is not my vise but just used as reference. If anyone has ideas, please feel free.

 

[va.grouseman]

Momoe, you need a snug fitting collar with a set screw in it that screws into a recess in the main screw.---The recess doesn't have to be deep or threaded.

 

[Momoe]

Momoe, you need a snug fitting collar with a set screw in it that screws into a recess in the main screw.---The recess doesn't have to be deep or threaded.

Cool! I was wondering if that would work. I was considering welding the collar in place but figured I'd warp it since it was so small. I will reassemble it tonight and see how thick I can get away with.

thanks!!

 

[nutjob]

Cool! I was wondering if that would work. I was considering welding the collar in place but figured I'd warp it since it was so small. I will reassemble it tonight and see how thick I can get away with.

thanks!!

See page 358 post #7150, I think this is what you have?

Yep, set screw collar best replacement. See https://www.mcmaster.com/catalog/125/1265
You can pickup some shim "washers" at the same time. https://www.mcmaster.com/catalog/125/3370 I have these in a few different sizes. I get the .10 or .015 and stack them to remove backlash in the main shaft.


Kevin

 

[Momoe]

Its similar but mine is very thin. I can post up pics when I get home

 

[ShadowBoxer]

Hi,

I've been looking at a few vices to get for my home garage.
Most of the ones I want are anywhere from $100 - $600+. I'd like an older, large vice, a 4+ inch or bigger.

I found a large old Prentiss that looks like it was designed to have swivel but the lower plate and hardware are missing. The vise is a No. 22.

My repair questions are:
• Are these old vises worth repairing? It's a bit of a drive but I would pick it up so no shipping.
• Is it impossible or easy to get a replacement for this old vise' swivel?
• In general I see quite a few vises for sale but I don't know if they are older or newer or reliable, etc. Is there a thread here where members are selling old vises that they restore? I would certainly prefer to get the same vise that has all the parts from someone here, and it might even be less expensive. I don't know. I don't know what these are worth.

Thanks for any help and guidance.

 

[Outlawmws]

With or without the swivel base, that has the swivel jaw, and if unbroken, is a huge plus!

Have you considered mounting iy on a pedestal? Then the missing swivel is irrelevant.

 

[gman007]

Hi,

My repair questions are:
• Are these old vises worth repairing? It's a bit of a drive but I would pick it up so no shipping.
• Is it impossible or easy to get a replacement for this old vise' swivel?
• In general I see quite a few vises for sale but I don't know if they are older or newer or reliable, etc. Is there a thread here where members are selling old vises that they restore? I would certainly prefer to get the same vise that has all the parts from someone here, and it might even be less expensive. I don't know. I don't know what these are worth.

Thanks for any help and guidance.

Shadow
Here are some answers for you

• Old vises are absolutely worth repairing. Generally any US made vise (even the ones that are old) are superior to the new Chinese ****.

• Unfortunately generally it is not easy to find replacement parts specially a swivel base. If you really get lucky you might find another donor vise. There is a very nice seller on eBay (oldtoolnut59) who does sell all sorts of parts including swivel basis but there is no guarantee that he might have a base for your particular vise. But it might be worth contacting him and find out.

One of the members here KMScott (machinist extraordinaire) does manufacture some replacement parts such as jaw inserts, swivel locks, swivel pins, handles etc. for the older high quality vises but generally not the swivel base (even though he has done so in the past for vises that he was restoring)

• With the exception of few brands such as Wilton bullet vises and until recently Reed etc which still manufacture vises in USA, if the vise is made in USA, chances are that it is an older vise. Unfortunately brands such as Prentiss, Chas Parker, Athol, Rock Iron etc have long ago gone of out of business.

In any case if you have any questions regarding a vise, be it price, history, condition, etc that you are interested in just post a question with photos (but do NOT include the link to the actual listing as not give away your lead). You can post your question here or on the main vise thread (which has a much wider audience)

https://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=44782

There is a sale thread on GJ (at the moment I can not find the link to the thread but I am sure someone here can provide it) which members list vises as well as other tools for sale.

 

[gman007]

With or without the swivel base, that has the swivel jaw, and if unbroken, is a huge plus!

Have you considered mounting iy on a pedestal? Then the missing swivel is irrelevant.

While personally I like my tools and in particular vises in a complete state, in reality utility of a swivel base is of limited use and to be honest most of us rarely use this feature. Some members even prefer fixed base vises.

The Prentiss 22 in the two photos is one of the really older ones and seems to be in good shape (among other parts you need to check swivel jaw in person to make sure). So I agree 100% with Outlaw.

 

[va.grouseman]

One thread is the [The Unofficial Vise Parts Swap Thread], that might help with missing parts.


https://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=88292

 

[va.grouseman]

Shadow, those #22s are pretty desirable as collectors and that one from first glance seems to be in fairly good shape.---So if the price is reasonable you should snap it up with the assumption that you will one day find a donor swivel.---At any rate, even without a swivel base you can get a lot of service out of it in it's stationary condition.---And like Gman said, there are a lot of members here that wouldn't have anything but a stationary vise.---And coming in at 168lbs. with a swivel base, I'm guessing it is still over 150lbs. without it, that's no slouch.

 

[ClappedOutBport]

Hi,

I've been looking at a few vices to get for my home garage.
Most of the ones I want are anywhere from $100 - $600+. I'd like an older, large vice, a 4+ inch or bigger.

I found a large old Prentiss that looks like it was designed to have swivel but the lower plate and hardware are missing. The vise is a No. 22.

My repair questions are:
• Are these old vises worth repairing? It's a bit of a drive but I would pick it up so no shipping.
• Is it impossible or easy to get a replacement for this old vise' swivel?
• In general I see quite a few vises for sale but I don't know if they are older or newer or reliable, etc. Is there a thread here where members are selling old vises that they restore? I would certainly prefer to get the same vise that has all the parts from someone here, and it might even be less expensive. I don't know. I don't know what these are worth.

Thanks for any help and guidance.

I use the later and greater version of that vise, the 456, and IMO it's the best vise I've ever used. Extremely hard jaws, lovely swivel jaw, and is solid. The 456 is a swivel base, but it's a clamp ring design which I haven't seen anyone else do, and it works much better than the traditional design in my opinion. I prefer a solid mounted vise over traditional swivel bases, heavy work tends to make them spin, hence all of the bent handles

tl;dr, jump on that baby!

 

[Momoe]

another question. This vise has casted jaws that I cannot remove or replace. what is the best way to regroove/ restore them?

 

[ShadowBoxer]

Hi,
Thanks so much for the replies and ideas.
I still don't know what something like this is worth, but it seems you all agree it's not too far a stretch to get some parts or have them made. Yes? I seem to be getting a crystal clear, "maybe you'll find it, maybe you won't".

With or without the swivel base, that has the swivel jaw, and if unbroken, is a huge plus!

Have you considered mounting it on a pedestal? Then the missing swivel is irrelevant.

I had considered using it without or somehow making something myself but I did not realize that this alone is probably over 150lbs. If I can't find the parts (if I buy the vise), I'll have to reconsider how to make a swivel for it or mount it.

I'm in a smaller garage so I like the idea of having options and mobility. I'm not a big fan of bolting things down unless it's truly the best place for it. A swivel mount makes me feel like I would at least have some options and choices to position things here or there, etc.

For example the way the table is now. Thinking that I would someday get a vise, I placed it to run along the long wall front to back. However it does not go to the back wall; there is the back door on the same side wall. So you see a swivel on this corner of the table would allow material to be directed down the front of the table or literally out the side door into infinity! Hmmm, this vise could probably handle the leverage, but I might need a heavier table...

Actually now that I think about it, by angling the vise (swiveling the base) a little I bet I could get some material to go out the side door and the front of the garage. So that was my original planning, if you follow, and why I wanted a swivel base.

By the way, for what would be the application of a swivel jaw? For odd shaped pieces? Is there another part that fits on the dynamic jaw? Obviously this is a thing or a company would not have bothered developing and building one.
I've never seen that before. How could a swivel jaw vise make my life better?

While we're here, how would I test it if I go see it? Pull or push that top knob and what's supposed to happen? What should I look for?

Shadow, those #22s are pretty desirable as collectors and that one from first glance seems to be in fairly good shape.---So if the price is reasonable you should snap it up with the assumption that you will one day find a donor swivel.---At any rate, even without a swivel base you can get a lot of service out of it in it's stationary condition.---And like Gman said, there are a lot of members here that wouldn't have anything but a stationary vise.---And coming in at 168lbs. with a swivel base, I'm guessing it is still over 150lbs. without it, that's no slouch.

And what would a reasonable price be? Maybe I could use the fact that it's incomplete with no swivel mount to justify a lower price? Yes it's old and dirty and rusty but unless it's a frozen block of rust inside, assuming everything works, it seems obvious it is in decent condition.

Thanks again for enabling my vises ...
I mean, helping me out ...

 

[ClappedOutBport]

To make the most of such a vise, you really need it to be rigidly mounted. It's not worth much without it. I've needed to bounce on the end of a 3 foot wrench before to loosen things, you need a strong bench. Here is how the one I use is mounted, and I also talk about the swivel jaw benefits and such.

 

[Mr. Wonderful]

Shadowboxer, Some advise I got when I started looking at the big american vises. If you can afford that Prentiss, BUY IT! If it winds up being too much you can ALWAYS get a decent price for it. What you can't do is go back and find another one if you decide to pass and change your mind. These don't grow on trees especially at decent prices. As for what to pay I'd say anything even close to $1/lb is a very good deal. Most places are much more. If that was on my local CL it would be over $500!

Check it for cracks and welds. You could always bolt it to a plate with a 2" square tube on it and put a trailer type receiver at 90 angles so you could turn it. Others here have done it. I hope this helps. Good luck.

 

[va.grouseman]

Shadow, if you had the room you could mount the vise to a metal table with locking casters that would act as a stand and a swivel base.---You could turn it in any direction you wanted.---Just a thought.

I hate to ask, but we don't know what kind of deal you're looking at unless you tell what the seller is asking for it.

 

[ShadowBoxer]

As a matter of fact they are asking for $500 cash. Not over, but it's missing parts, right?
It's a 6 inch jaw and shut it's around 2 feet long.

It's a lot of money but the thing looks massive to me and I haven't even seen it.
... definitely might need a bigger table ...

I was trying to get a feel for availability of the swivel or repairs on it, and just by looking (that's all any of us can do on the internet), what would you feel is a fair starting value. After I see it in person then more can be determined. Somethings you don't need to see it in person. You can see that it's a ridiculous price or item and you move on. I don't want to waste my time if the same or better (comes with all the parts) can be had for a lot cheaper.

Thanks.

 

[ClappedOutBport]

I've noticed the jaws don't seem to meet like the 456. The one I use the grooves interlock and will actually close to sub-zero distance. That one seems like the jaws have seen some use, I see a bit of air gap around the edges and they don't super tight anymore. They may be smooth, I don't see any grooves in them. Definitely more room to talk them down from $500.

 

[Momoe]

When you are finished restoring and paint it up, do you clear coat it to protect the paint? I used a high performance protective enamel to paint with. Didn’t know if I need a top coat to prevent scratches etc

Thanks

 

[va.grouseman]

Yea it's a big vise Shadow, but for $500.00, I'd want the total package.---For that kind of money, I'd have to have all the parts.---See if they are flexible, if not you might want to be patient, check some yard--estate--garage sales, Pawn--thrift shops, CL, FB.---Lots of places to be looking while you let the seller marinade in your offer, Your $325,00 offer.

 

[ShadowBoxer]

Yes, that is what I was thinking Va.Grouseman. It's a nice example, but for that money I want the whole thing.

I just wasn't sure what if any value is there. Someone wants $2000. for a rusty wreck might sound bad, but someone who knows what they're looking at might think it's a rare car, under the rust the metal is actually pretty good and each light is worth at least $700. The opposite can be true too. Relatively common junk is often overpriced just because it's an attractive design and is dirty enough to look old and rare but it's actually not rare at all.

I am patient and this is not a high priority. I am looking but I just happened to find this by accident. I was looking at a few larger Wilton bullets just to check prices. I wasn't actually looking for an old Prentiss. Of course now that I found it, and I do prefer old and vintage so now I want it, but I'm not just going to run over there greedy and ignorant.

So I came here to help cure some of my ignorant...

Thank you all.

 

[Ww7573]

Hi All,

I'm in the process of attempting to adjust the backlash on a Reed 4C, but I think either the adjuster is broken (not sure how it happened) or it does not work the way i thought it should. There is right now ~1/8" gap between the adjuster and the main nut

Do i just keep bending that tab over? Should it thread through?
And related, how much of a turn should I turn the handel before the jaws start to move, Should I be targeting close to 0 degrees, or is 90 a safer number so nothing binds?

See pics

 

[Outlawmws]

You do realize that post the screw is in should be in one piece, and the screw hitting the Main nut?

 

[Shiftless]

Here is a close up of the adjuster nut on my Reed 406r

Outlaw is right. It should be in one piece but there is a slot. See mine. Looks like yours broke off there. If you did that by trying to bend it over, you don’t have to confess here on these pages.

As far as adjusting goes, personally I like 1/8 to 1/4 turn so nothing binds. Each vise is different. The Reed system is great in that you can easily custom tune the slack to minimize free play and at the same time avoid binding. If properly set up and lubricated, ANY vise should be able to be turned with one finger.

Fellow GJ member JZiggy has a 4C where he had to fabricate that post and screw arrangement. He also added a thrust bearing to the front. I have used that vise myself and I can tell you it is one sweet clamper!

 

[jmhinkle]

Here is a close up of the adjuster nut on my Reed 406r

Outlaw is right. It should be in one piece but there is a slot. See mine. Looks like yours broke off there. If you did that by trying to bend it over, you don’t have to confess here on these pages.

As far as adjusting goes, personally I like 1/8 to 1/4 turn so nothing binds. Each vise is different. The Reed system is great in that you can easily custom tune the slack to minimize free play and at the same time avoid binding. If properly set up and lubricated, ANY vise should be able to be turned with one finger.

Fellow GJ member JZiggy has a 4C where he had to fabricate that post and screw arrangement. He also added a thrust bearing to the front. I have used that vise myself and I can tell you it is one sweet clamper!

Have you seen another type that doesn't have an adjuster. I recently pulled my old 204 apart to clean up and paint it and it doesn't have that style. It looks more like a plug with a tip to pull it out with. I'll get a picture of it and post because I was going to ask about it anyway. I need to find a piece of metal hard enough to make a giant screwdriver for the swivel bolt as well.

 

[Ww7573]

You do realize that post the screw is in should be in one piece, and the screw hitting the Main nut?

That's why it didn't make any sense how it worked because it's broken!

What's the purpose of the slot cut into the adjuster? (Why isn't it just a pin with a tapped hole in it?)

 

[PacificaVette]

Have you seen another type that doesn't have an adjuster. I recently pulled my old 204 apart to clean up and paint it and it doesn't have that style. It looks more like a plug with a tip to pull it out with. I'll get a picture of it and post because I was going to ask about it anyway. I need to find a piece of metal hard enough to make a giant screwdriver for the swivel bolt as well.

A big drag-link socket works perfectly for that. I soaked the bolt/swivel base in Master Blaster for two days, then used the drag link socket on an 18" breaker bar. Magic!

 

[Shiftless]

That's why it didn't make any sense how it worked because it's broken!

What's the purpose of the slot cut into the adjuster? (Why isn't it just a pin with a tapped hole in it?)

I’d also like to know what purpose the slot has.

jm:
Lots of Reeds have a pin stuck into a hole to retain the main nut. You can bend the pin a bit to tighten up the slack if necessary.

Like PacificaVette, I use a drag link socket for stuck swivel screws. They come in different sizes. Here is a pic if you aren’t familiar with that tool.

It is half inch drive so you can use serious tools to break those screws free. A few bumps with a pneumatic impact gun??