frank001
Well-known member
This is the pro way to store extension cords without tangles and twists:
This is the pro way to store extension cords
- Thread starter frank001
- Start date
I've seen that before but I won't do that. I don't like to put my cords in that tight of a loop for long periods. I just loop them like he does in the beginning. I've not really had an issue doing that and unwinding it.
I wind over arm & hand like he did at the beginning, or or long loops removing the bias and black tape them.
Tyberius
Well-known member
I prefer counter coiling/over-under coiling
wyliesdiesels
Well-known member
I cant stand that method.
Much prefer the over-under method.
If done right, one can toss the cord out while holding the plug and it will unwind and go to where you need it.
Much prefer the over-under method.
If done right, one can toss the cord out while holding the plug and it will unwind and go to where you need it.
esvee
Well-known member
From working with AV equipment I learned counter-coiling (or over-under as folks have mentioned here).
Fast, easy on the cables, makes for a perfect throw every time. All of my extensions and rope are stored this way.
Fast, easy on the cables, makes for a perfect throw every time. All of my extensions and rope are stored this way.
outdoorspace
Banned
- Joined
- Jan 28, 2014
- Messages
- 356
Overworked and underpaid.
alfredeneuman
Well-known member
I always do it like the guy frank001's youtube vid shows.
It really makes quite a difference when dealing with 100' cords like on construction sites.
It really makes quite a difference when dealing with 100' cords like on construction sites.
Jim greengo
Well-known member
I've done it that way for years,nothing new.
techieman33
Well-known member
Over/under is where it's at. Time is money, and OPs method takes way to much time.
johnnyradiant
Well-known member
If time is money maybe OP is making money doing it the 'wrong' way?
Miss the Pontiacs
Well-known member
I started doing it as the OP’s video demonstrated. The jury is still out on if I will continue.
I did this method with 2 100 footers. Haven’t had to use them since lacing them. Actually once you split it in two it really doesn’t take long to lace them once you get the pattern down. It will be great to not have to over arm the whole cord once you have completed a project. Just unlace what you need and redo when completed.
I did this method with 2 100 footers. Haven’t had to use them since lacing them. Actually once you split it in two it really doesn’t take long to lace them once you get the pattern down. It will be great to not have to over arm the whole cord once you have completed a project. Just unlace what you need and redo when completed.
Zeke
Well-known member
Yeah, he acts like he's just invented the newest and best way to lose belly fat.
I wouldn't bother with a 25' or even 50' cord, I do the over/under (or just wind them up, who cares about a silly 252 footer?) My 100' cords are done in chains but started with 4, not 2. Then the stupid thing isn't seven feet long all *******.
If you're unlucky enough to have a 16 ga. 50 footer(or a 100 footer, godforbid), the chain works pretty well as they become spaghetti just looking at them. I only have such animals for corded yard tools. I have a thing about cordless yard tools — too expensive and I hate fooling with the batteries. I get enough of that with cordless tools on the truck.
jeffmoss26
Well-known member
Nope.
Over-under all the way.
Over-under all the way.
Bad00SS
Well-known member
This has to be the stupidest way I've ever seen in my life. I don't have time to weave some complex chain of ****. I can put away my 25ft'r wrapping around my arm in 10 seconds and hang it on the hook in my garage and done. Don't re-invent the wheel. geez.
red94chev
Well-known member
That looked like an over complicated PITA to me.
slow
Well-known member
Over under for me, after doing audio/video/ and stage lighting, no going back to other methods.
BillK
Well-known member
I agree completely. Actually getting ready to buy a corded drill for the shop, sick of batteries too.
jives
Well-known member
^^This. On heavy gauge 100 footers, double them up twice, then chain 'em. Too heavy to coil. . .
Robert Haas
Well-known member
- Joined
- Sep 30, 2010
- Messages
- 1,749
Known as a "Bosuns weave" long heavy gauge cords tossed into tool lockers or job site work boxes need to be weaved. Roll them up nice and then put 10 of them in a pile and you will quickly understand why.
Over under for all hanging stock around the shop but the stuff out on my job sites or in my wrk trucks is weaved.
Over under for all hanging stock around the shop but the stuff out on my job sites or in my wrk trucks is weaved.
bczygan
Well-known member
I do it and also the back and forth looping.
Didn't do the shortening he shows. Will try it.
Bill
Didn't do the shortening he shows. Will try it.
Bill
techieman33
Well-known member
You just have to tie them up when they're coiled. Leave a piece of string or a velcro wrap near the male end of the cable.
Miss the Pontiacs
Well-known member
I now prefer this method. Doubling them up is an excellent idea for the 2 100 footers I have.
Robby321
Well-known member
Damn! Did they stop making cord reels? Or get a 5 gallon bucket and and loop it around in there. Or drill a hole and stick the plug out side bottom, and then take out what ya want...(world getting SOOOO stupid)
Stevie-Ray
Well-known member
I just loop it around my arm, but double it first. Works perfectly every time for those 50 and 100 footers.
thirdgoat
Active member
I was in the audio-visual business for 43 years, always used the over/under method. That's a lot of cable coiling...
LS6 Tommy
Well-known member
I like the chain method, but the reality of it is it takes up too much space to store multiple cords. After being in bands since the late 70's, it's always been over/under for me.
Tommy
Tommy
ez-duzit
Well-known member
Figure-8's work great; very fast and don't tangle.
Arkansas COB
Well-known member
I chain my 100' 10 ga cords. All others just get looped and tied off.
One thing for sure is on the 10 ga cords they really need to be not twisted to begin with to make the chain work properly. Getting them non twisted took some doing but once done and chained they havent got twisted again.
When buying a brand new cord thats been rolled up I find it best to stretch it out tightly in the sun for several hours before trying to chain or loop.
Have never seen the over/under method. Seems like this would be good on small gauge cords. Will have to give this a try.
COB
One thing for sure is on the 10 ga cords they really need to be not twisted to begin with to make the chain work properly. Getting them non twisted took some doing but once done and chained they havent got twisted again.
When buying a brand new cord thats been rolled up I find it best to stretch it out tightly in the sun for several hours before trying to chain or loop.
Have never seen the over/under method. Seems like this would be good on small gauge cords. Will have to give this a try.
COB
Bretny
Well-known member
If your looping it around your arm you will have a twisted mess of a cord in short order...also dont touch my cords.
The only cords i loop in a circle are 25ft and the loop is roughly 4ft. So very few loops.
The only cords i loop in a circle are 25ft and the loop is roughly 4ft. So very few loops.
Bretny
Well-known member
If your looping it around your arm you will have a twisted mess of a cord in short order...also dont touch my cords.
The only cords i loop in a circle are 25ft and the loop is roughly 4ft. So very few loops.
The only cords i loop in a circle are 25ft and the loop is roughly 4ft. So very few loops.
techieman33
Well-known member
The other thing to do is to unroll it properly. New cable is rolled around a drum, not coiled from the side. It needs to be unrolled the same way or you’ll introduce a ton of twist right from the start.
The over-under is topologically equivalent, it's just folded in half. It's also much easier and faster to do freehand.
threeputt
Well-known member
I'm curious what a wire & cable manufacturer would suggest. For one, repeated flexing of copper work-hardens it; so the more flex, the harder the wire.
I'm all for good care of wire & cable; I just want to know what a metallurgical engineer would say.
I'm all for good care of wire & cable; I just want to know what a metallurgical engineer would say.
I'm curious what a wire & cable manufacturer would suggest. For one, repeated flexing of copper work-hardens it; so the more flex, the harder the wire.
I'm all for good care of wire & cable; I just want to know what a metallurgical engineer would say.
I'm all for good care of wire & cable; I just want to know what a metallurgical engineer would say.
SGKent
Banned
water skiiers have the same issue with tow ropes. Fishermen have issues with anchor line. If you put the cord in a 5-gallon bucket randomly it will come out exactly the same way it went in without tangling. A figure 8 is preferred to a coil. My father was USCG officer for years, sea duty, coastal search'submarine bombing WWII, and SAR. If anything had to be coiled it was in a figure 8. That said I have tried looping, figure 8's, buckets and reels. My 100' cords are on a reel. A little silicone spray on it once a year and it will spin with no friction. 10', 25' & 50' cords are figure 8 using my arm and elbow. I get tired of trying to store loops in the shed where they get in the way. Also if someone else tries to use it I end up undoing knots because they didn't understand how simple it was to start. Like pulling a string on a potato sack. There is an easy way and a take all day way. Everyone should know how to do it but using it depends on the use and frequency. My 2 cents.
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