Did the insulation company do this right

[mike93lx]

Well yes it meets code as far as fire blocking which is all that’s required in residential. It doesn’t have to be fireproof like commercial work

I know. I was trying to share some info with the OP, as he doesn't seem to be familiar with insulation. If it was sold as fire retardant, he should know that it is noy

 

[Hot shot]

I decided to leave it like it is
Thanks for all the helpful info

 

[rayra]

The rest of the job looks ok from the pics

Was the spray foam they used orange? That stuff isn't actually fire retardant, it's just colored to make it visually easy to identify that gaps were sealed for inspection

You're saying the orange stuff labeled fire retardant is not a fire retardant?

 

[rayra]

NONE of that insulation is properly installed. The flanges of the paper-faced bats are supposed to be stapled to the face edge of the lumber, not on the inner faces. That's what helps form the vapor barrier. Having the studs exposed partially negates that.
All over those pictures the bats are tucked in and partially compressed. Thus reducing their insulation effect.
They finished your job with somebody else's unfaced bats remnants, instead of buying more of the proper material. Further negating the vapor barrier effect.
Same goes for the ridiculously undersized vents. Why even have them at all, or go to the trouble of new construction, just to totally hamstring it.

I'd withhold balance of payment until they unscrew it all. But if they are that unprofessional in the first place they'll likely just file a lien and never fix it.
Your best compromise solution might be to have them add a poly vapor barrier. But that might not even be wise in your location. But since you put 'Home' for that, instead of at least a region or State or mega-city, there's no way of even telling where your barrier even ought to be or if you really shouldn't have one at all.

 

[mike93lx]

You're saying the orange stuff labeled fire retardant is not a fire retardant?

Read that label again. It doesn't say fire retardant.

"Resistant is defined as a material that is inherently resistant to catching fire (self-extinguishing) and does not melt or drip when exposed directly to extreme heat. Retardant is defined as a material that has been chemically treated to self-extinguish."

 

[spudley]

It's an air sealing product with breathability

Are you related to Yogi Berra?

 

[DC73]

Are you related to Yogi Berra?

yeldogt is correct. They are called smart membranes. Vapor permeability changes with humidity but they block airflow. Some are best used when you have both a summer cooling season and a winter heating season.

Here's a link to one: https://www.certainteed.com/building-insulation/products/membrain/

DC

 

[yeldogt]

For what its worth in my 17 years in the construction industry in England I have never seen insulation with a paper face on it. We don't use as much fiberglass insulation now in new construction as you can't get the values out of it you need with out ridiculous thickness, but they still stuff tons of it in existing lofts to improve them.

We can't get the values either ...

The tests don't factor air movement -- be it from wind or "stack effect" .. Stack is much misunderstood .. but a big factor in energy loss.

Fiberglass Batts will not stop air movement -- if you test w/o air movements the product has an effective "R rating ... and any air movement .... who knows since they never test.

That's why I like foam

 

[yeldogt]

NONE of that insulation is properly installed. The flanges of the paper-faced bats are supposed to be stapled to the face edge of the lumber, not on the inner faces. That's what helps form the vapor barrier. Having the studs exposed partially negates that.
All over those pictures the bats are tucked in and partially compressed. Thus reducing their insulation effect.
They finished your job with somebody else's unfaced bats remnants, instead of buying more of the proper material. Further negating the vapor barrier effect.
Same goes for the ridiculously undersized vents. Why even have them at all, or go to the trouble of new construction, just to totally hamstring it.

I'd withhold balance of payment until they unscrew it all. But if they are that unprofessional in the first place they'll likely just file a lien and never fix it.
Your best compromise solution might be to have them add a poly vapor barrier. But that might not even be wise in your location. But since you put 'Home' for that, instead of at least a region or State or mega-city, there's no way of even telling where your barrier even ought to be or if you really shouldn't have one at all.

Actually -- both ways are allowed. And both leak --

With the tabs over the studs the drywall will not be held fast to the face of the stud. Ideally the OP would ask for a continuous bead of construction adhesive on all the studs -- this will greatly reduce air movement between bays. Sadly -- it's rarely done correctly.

Plastic in humid or cold climates should not be used

 

[beech1948]

The OSB will act as a vapour barrierbecause of the high amount of resin present. Much better than the paper over the insulation which is basically useless..the paper not the insulation.

I'd get the company back to replace their sloppy work and get the OSB up.

 

[dutchgray]

We can't get the values either ...

The tests don't factor air movement -- be it from wind or "stack effect" .. Stack is much misunderstood .. but a big factor in energy loss.

Fiberglass Batts will not stop air movement -- if you test w/o air movements the product has an effective "R rating ... and any air movement .... who knows since they never test.

That's why I like foam

I like foam to, the stuff with the aluminium foil both sides, typically we would have 100mm under the floor and in the wall cavity and at least that much in the roof. But the building is calculated as a whole so every thing else effects how much insulation you need.

 

[machsnell]

You're saying the orange stuff labeled fire retardant is not a fire retardant?

I read somewhere it was the same as the great stuff gap foam....just colored orange and a good bit of extra money per can.

I lit both on fire and they burned like 10 year old kindling.

Total bs.

The fire portion is based on stopping air movement like blocking walls over 8 feet.



Sent from my SM-G960U using Tapatalk

 

[mike93lx]

I read somewhere it was the same as the great stuff gap foam....just colored orange and a good bit of extra money per can.

I lit both on fire and they burned like 10 year old kindling.

Total bs.

The fire portion is based on stopping air movement like blocking walls over 8 feet.



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You're right, same stuff, plus orange color. Supposed to help in inspections

 

[scottydosnntkno]

NONE of that insulation is properly installed. The flanges of the paper-faced bats are supposed to be stapled to the face edge of the lumber, not on the inner faces. That's what helps form the vapor barrier. Having the studs exposed partially negates that.
All over those pictures the bats are tucked in and partially compressed. Thus reducing their insulation effect.
They finished your job with somebody else's unfaced bats remnants, instead of buying more of the proper material. Further negating the vapor barrier effect.
Same goes for the ridiculously undersized vents. Why even have them at all, or go to the trouble of new construction, just to totally hamstring it.

I'd withhold balance of payment until they unscrew it all. But if they are that unprofessional in the first place they'll likely just file a lien and never fix it.
Your best compromise solution might be to have them add a poly vapor barrier. But that might not even be wise in your location. But since you put 'Home' for that, instead of at least a region or State or mega-city, there's no way of even telling where your barrier even ought to be or if you really shouldn't have one at all.

Stapling the paper to the stud faces is only required in zone 6 and 7 I believe, as they are the ones who require a true vapor barrier.

most other areas require vapor retarder instead, Which unstapled faced batts meet.

It can also be met by just plain old unfaced insulation, with taped drywall joints and two coats of paint on it.

Most installers around here use the new JM staple free mineral wool. It doesn’t even have a flange since it’s not required in michigan (zone 5) to have a true vapor barrier. It’s nice to install you just press it into place as it’s slightly oversized so it holds itself in the bays

 

[scottydosnntkno]

I read somewhere it was the same as the great stuff gap foam....just colored orange and a good bit of extra money per can.

I lit both on fire and they burned like 10 year old kindling.

Total bs.

The fire portion is based on stopping air movement like blocking walls over 8 feet.



Sent from my SM-G960U using Tapatalk

Correct, which is all that is required in residential construction is all penetrations must be sealed with fire locking foam. Nothing has to be fire proof or fire retardant.

My point was great stuff makes the red can (gaps and cracks) in the pro can for $11 which is approved as a fire block foam. And they make the fire block foam in the orange can ($23) which is also approved as a fire blocker but costs a ton more. They are both orange when dry and work the same

 

[Hot shot]

This is what they used

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