Another compressor question

[threeputt]

I got my old Weaver 432 compressor ( 1962 year ) going and plumbed it to a 60 gallon tank. It works great but over the years people have messed with the pressure regulator valve setting.
. I have it set at 120 psi to cut out and it works. Not sure what pressure it should kick back on ? It is now cutting back on at 40 psi which I think is low. There are two adjustments under the cover I made the red mark on. One is larger than the other so assume that is cut off setting and the smaller one is cut back on ?
Can anyone recommend a regulator to install on this ? To be honest its never had a regulator since 1962.
My compressor is being run by the original 5 hp 3-phase motor. It is old like me and I want to make sure it out lives me
Any suggestions welcomed.
I have three new 90 inch belts installed now. Not sure how tight they should be ? I was reading tonight here about over tightening the belts.

 

[Boilerhouse]

If it cuts off at 120, I would have the compressor come on around 100 psi, 40 is definitely too low. For belt tension, my compressor specs 1/2 inch deflection when a 5 pound force is applied to the middle of the belt. So use common sense, tight enough so the belts don't slip, but not so tight as to cause stress to any bearings.

 

[sberry]

This is 2 stage, on at 120/130, off at 175. This allows tools like 1/2 impact to deliver 90 thru 50 ft of 3/8 hose and reel at any point in its cycle. Set regulator just above its kick on.

 

[threeputt]

This is 2 stage, on at 120/130, off at 175. This allows tools like 1/2 impact to deliver 90 thru 50 ft of 3/8 hose and reel at any point in its cycle. Set regulator just above its kick on.

Even if the tank is only rated at 150 psi ?
Also do you know which one of these adjustments set what ? I read where the larger one sets cut in when pressure is low. I always though the larger one was the one you adjust to cut off compressor when air pressure is achieved ??
Thanks

 

[TonyJ]

That tank should be rated at 200psi like almost all tanks are. Find the tag on the tank that has been welded on and has the info stamped on it. Tighten the taller adjustment to raise cut out pressure and tighten the shorter one down to close up the gap in cut out and cut in pressure. I would close up the gap before raising the cut out pressure first if it was mine and if it won’t close up the gap then replace the switch.


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[threeputt]

That tank should be rated at 200psi like almost all tanks are. Find the tag on the tank that has been welded on and has the info stamped on it. Tighten the taller adjustment to raise cut out pressure and tighten the shorter one down to close up the gap in cut out and cut in pressure. I would close up the gap before raising the cut out pressure first if it was mine and if it won’t close up the gap then replace the switch.


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This is not the original tank. It is stamped on the side> rated 150 psi , I almost sure. I will look again tomorrow. My original 80 gallon horizontal was rated at 200 or maybe a little higher.


I also installed a new 150 psi Safety Valve.

I am not running but a few things in this shop that use air and its only me here so lower pressure like 120 psi would be fine unless I need to set it higher ?? I do have a 50 foot reel hose ( 3/8th ) that I use. I don't want to plumb air to this shop at my age. I just need air on occasion.

I just wanted to get this old 432 compressor back running and I did. I know this compressor is a overkill for what I do but it is here and with a little work I got it back going. It was already wired for 3-phase and the motor runs great now.

I just want to make sure I have things set right so I don't trash this thing. I do remember many years ago the heaters went bad but I had leaks back then under the slab and the compressor was running a lot. The setting were probably wrong.
I was young back then and didn't pay attention to things because I had to make a living working here. Not anymore. Just a hobby for me now.

I also had this 60 gallon tank that was give to me in perfect condition so why not use it.

Thanks for the info on the setting. I will see tomorrow if I can set it.
I will also check the pressure rating on tank again.

 

[TonyJ]

If you installed a 150psi safety valve then like other have said I would just set it’s cut out at 140 and cut in at 100 and you should be good to go. I currently have my 1963 Quincy setting at 145 off 110 on and I also use a 50ft hose and hose reel and have two more 50ft hoses to add to it when I have to reach farther away and I’ve not had any problems at all. It’s fun getting the old compressors up and going and giving them a new life

 

[threeputt]

Thanks TonyJ. Any suggestion on a regulator to use ? What about the cheap ones at Harbor freight ? They are 1/4 inch but so are the quick connects I screw in my air tools

 

[sberry]

I like thje stuff with 3/8 ports for this type of thing. The bity ones are fine to dedicated tools, I have one ahead of my paint reel. I havnt looked at HF but have used them from HD, they make a nice little combo fil reg for 30$ or so.
I happened to plumb this out the 1/4 port cause I had it all in hand at the time but its got 3/8 in, a 3/8 and 2 1/4's out, put a gage in one.

 

[threeputt]

The unloader switch seems to be leaking. I got it set to kick off at 140 but no matter how tight I adjust the smaller spring it will not kick back on until 40 psi. I sprayed soap bubbles and it leaking pretty good around diaphragm on bottom of unloader valve. I actually need to install a good known gauge. This one is old and could be not as accurate as a new one. I could have been higher than 140 psi and didn't know it. The safety valve didn't blow off so I might have been ok. I got one I bought a few months ago from tractor supply that is 1/8th There is one hole in
I think I will remove the unloader and see if diaphragm has a hole in it,
It has been almost 23 years since I last ran this compressor.

 

[threeputt]

I like thje stuff with 3/8 ports for this type of thing. The bity ones are fine to dedicated tools, I have one ahead of my paint reel. I havnt looked at HF but have used them from HD, they make a nice little combo fil reg for 30$ or so.
I happened to plumb this out the 1/4 port cause I had it all in hand at the time but its got 3/8 in, a 3/8 and 2 1/4's out, put a gage in one.

Thanks, I was thinking 3/8th would be better as the one from HF I put on my small compressor looks cheap. I got to resolve the issue with the unloader now.

 

[TonyJ]

The unloader switch seems to be leaking. I got it set to kick off at 140 but no matter how tight I adjust the smaller spring it will not kick back on until 40 psi. I sprayed soap bubbles and it leaking pretty good around diaphragm on bottom of unloader valve. I actually need to install a good known gauge. This one is old and could be not as accurate as a new one. I could have been higher than 140 psi and didn't know it. The safety valve didn't blow off so I might have been ok.
I think I will remove the unloader and see if diaphragm has a hole in it,
It has been almost 23 years since I last ran this compressor.

It may be a easier fix for you to just get a new pressure switch that has a unloader port and you have several different options to normally pick from as in switch’s that are already preset to ranges your looking to be in. Tractor supply has 3 or 4 with different ranges for around $26-$40 depending on brand

 

[threeputt]

It may be a easier fix for you to just get a new pressure switch that has a unloader port and you have several different options to normally pick from as in switch’s that are already preset to ranges your looking to be in. Tractor supply has 3 or 4 with different ranges for around $26-$40 depending on brand

I am open to suggestions as to which one to buy . I am just learning about air compressors. Tractor supply is high in prices around here but I can stop in on the way from my shop today

 

[threeputt]

Here is the one on it now. As you can see it cuts off at 175 and back on at 140. My tank has a data plate on it saying 150psi

 

[TonyJ]

Here is the one on it now. As you can see it cuts off at 175 and back on at 140. My tank has a data plate on it saying 150psi

If your tank is only rated at 150 then this one would put you at 135 off and 105 on and keep you under the 150 limit



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[TonyJ]

If your tank is only rated at 150 then this one would put you at 135 off and 105 on and keep you under the 150 limit



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Other places I’m sure has switches so you can always shop around and get the best deal around your area. I just bought the next one up from this one just a few weeks ago and it has a cut out of 155 but I lowered it just a little bit to suit my compressor better

 

[threeputt]

If your tank is only rated at 150 then this one would put you at 135 off and 105 on and keep you under the 150 limit



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135 and 105 would be prefect.

 

[sberry]

155 is way better. The purpose here is to store energy. Along with a regulator it gives way more headroom and steady supply. At 135 could skip a regulator but on any heavier tools it will start to fall below its performance threshold about 1/2 way down the cycle. It may not matter but it all kind of defeats the purpose of having a good compressor.
If you wanted less would have bought a 400$ single stage.

 

[threeputt]

155 is way better. The purpose here is to store energy. Along with a regulator it gives way more headroom and steady supply. At 135 could skip a regulator but on any heavier tools it will start to fall below its performance threshold about 1/2 way down the cycle. It may not matter but it all kind of defeats the purpose of having a good compressor.
If you wanted less would have bought a 400$ single stage.

sberry, I didn't just buy this compressor. It came with the shop I bought from my Dad in the 70's.
I am only trying to bring it back to life without spending a lot of money.
I work at this shop 7 days a week but not because I have to. I love doing this.

I won't be needing air everyday and this compressor is here so why not use it.

 

[TonyJ]

sberry, I didn't just buy this compressor. It came with the shop I bought from my Dad in the 70's.
I am only trying to bring it back to life without spending a lot of money.
I work at this shop 7 days a week but not because I have to. I love doing this.

I won't be needing air everyday and this compressor is here so why not use it.
I just got to find a new pressure switch that will work with this compressor . I hope maybe you have a suggestion or maybe someone here. It needs to be 3/8th pipe so I can just screw it in and connect my wires. I guess I could use a reducer. No lines going out like the ones I have seen online so far. I will keep looking or maybe try and replace the diaphragm. I got some material as shown in picture ( red ) but I don't have a clue if it will get this thing going right.

The building that the tank and compressor is in now does have a few leaks so moving the 60 gallon tank inside might work best anyway.

Thanks for your help. Tom

You actually don’t need it to be 3/8” because from what I’ve seen with your setup your not going to be using none of the “out” ports and only the “in” port so just use a 1/4 to 3/8 bushing and screw it right in. One of the out ports you can put in a gauge if you would like too.

 

[threeputt]

You actually don’t need it to be 3/8” because from what I’ve seen with your setup your not going to be using none of the “out” ports and only the “in” port so just use a 1/4 to 3/8 bushing and screw it right in. One of the out ports you can put in a gauge if you would like too.

I got brass fittings and have I a bushing I could use. I just wanted to make sure .
The one you mentioned you used should work ?? I checked and our Tractor Supply does not have that one in stock. I could put a gauge in the empty hole like you mentioned or a plug.

Before I order one I want to make sure 100 % it will work with my setup. Again suggestions welcomed. THANKS

 

[TonyJ]

I got brass fittings and have I a bushing I could use. I just wanted to make sure .
The one you mentioned you used should work ?? I checked and our Tractor Supply does not have that one in stock. I could put a gauge in the empty hole like you mentioned or a plug.

Before I order one I want to make sure 100 % it will work with my setup. Again suggestions welcomed. THANKS

Yes it will work. You can get the 155psi one and adjust it down if you want too. Their the same switch’s but just set differently. They put hot glue in the Phillips adjustment screw to keep ppl from adjusting them but the glue is easily removed to lower the psi to suit your tank pressure

 

[TonyJ]

Yes it will work. You can get the 155psi one and adjust it down if you want too. Their the same switch’s but just set differently. They put hot glue in the Phillips adjustment screw to keep ppl from adjusting them but the glue is easily removed to lower the psi to suit your tank pressure

Also they have built in unloaders so that would also solve your leaking unloader problem too

 

[threeputt]

Also they have built in unloaders so that would also solve your leaking unloader problem too

My mistake. The leaking was around the pressure switch diaphragm, not the unloader.

My unloader seems to be working and no leaks.

I will order the 135 psi one tomorrow unless I find one local. Wish I could just replace the diaphragm. I am betting that is all that is wrong with it.

I also never used a regulator in the shop but will look into getting one because I want to paint a golf cart.
I know we should have used a regulator . I also know that the tank should have been drained regular but can't go back in time to correct all the mistakes I made.

 

[TonyJ]

My mistake. The leaking was around the pressure switch diaphragm, not the unloader.



My unloader seems to be working and no leaks.



I will order the 135 psi one tomorrow unless I find one local. Wish I could just replace the diaphragm. I am betting that is all that is wrong with it.



I also never used a regulator in the shop but will look into getting one because I want to paint a golf cart.

I know we should have used a regulator . I also know that the tank should have been drained regular but can't go back in time to correct all the mistakes I made.

I don’t run a regulator on mine either. If I was going to be running between 155-175 then I would but I just use the adjustment ones that I can put right at my tools. And really the only ones that I even have those on is my paint gun and brad nailer. Impacts and ratchets and grinders and all of those are air hogs anyways so I don’t bother lol

 

[threeputt]

TonyJ, I really appreciate the tips on this compressor. I got the part today that you suggested I order. I wired it white wire to line and black hot wire to load. This thing works perfect. I cannot believe how fast this old compressor builds air. No leaks at all. Kicks back on at exactly 105 psi.
This part does look cheap but it is working and no more than I will use the air compressor it will probably out live me

 

[TonyJ]

TonyJ, I really appreciate the tips on this compressor. I got the part today that you suggested I order. I wired it white wire to line and black hot wire to load. This thing works perfect. I cannot believe how fast this old compressor builds air. No leaks at all. Kicks back on at exactly 105 psi.
This part does look cheap but it is working and no more than I will use the air compressor it will probably out live me

Good deal. Glad to see your up and running and getting to enjoy it again. That switch is mass produced and is used on a wide range of compressors from pancake compressors to very large compressors. They even use the same exact switch even down to the same part numbers but have them set up at different pressure ranges and sell them at different prices lol. I use a magnetic starter with my compressor so I just use the pressure switch to control the coil in the starter so there is basically no load on the switch itself therefore my contacts in the switch should out live me. Again glad it worked out for you and set you in the range you wanted to be in


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[threeputt]

Tony, I even ordered and installed three new belts for this old compressor. I cannot believe how good it is working.

Today I found a set of heaters that were installed probably close to 25 years ago laying on a rail in the compressor room. I remember hiring a person to repair this for me back then.

I bet it was running way too long to build up air because of the bad pressure switch and several leaks. No telling how long this old square D switch was bad.

I left the shop soon after it was got back running and took a job. I just about know for sure that it was overheating and the heaters did their job to protect my motor.

Again I cannot thank you enough. I never would have got it back going if not for you.

 

[TonyJ]

Tony, I even ordered and installed three new belts for this old compressor. I cannot believe how good it is working.

Today I found a set of heaters that were installed probably close to 25 years ago laying on a rail in the compressor room. I remember hiring a person to repair this for me back then.

I bet it was running way too long to build up air because of the bad pressure switch and several leaks. No telling how long this old square D switch was bad.

I left the shop soon after it was got back running and took a job. I just about know for sure that it was overheating and the heaters did their job to protect my motor.

Again I cannot thank you enough. I never would have got it back going if not for you.

Your welcome and glad I could help and glad you can enjoy the oldie but goodie again. I’m about done with my oldie too. 1963 Quincy that I got from a water treatment plant that quit putting out air and I got it for free and only costed me $28 for a new set of valve disks and springs lol. If you look at the attached picture on the right you will see the same pressure switch you have.

 

[dkmc]

I'd set that thing to come on at 90psi and turn off at 120 tops. Air tools are designed to run on 90 psi minimal. Higher pressures generate more heat, and the motor works harder also generating more heat which is electrical energy being wasted as heat. Not to mention more stress on mechanical components.

 

[TonyJ]

I'd set that thing to come on at 90psi and turn off at 120 tops. Air tools are designed to run on 90 psi minimal. Higher pressures generate more heat, and the motor works harder also generating more heat which is electrical energy being wasted as heat. Not to mention more stress on mechanical components.

His won’t make any more heat in the basically 10lb difference in cut in cut off cause his is capable of running high pressures and he is running well below the pumps capacity and also running 3phase


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[MacMcMacmac]

That Weaver is probably a DeVilbiss 432. Never heard if Weaver but that i.d. tag is a perfect knockoff and the crankcase around it looks identical.

 

[threeputt]

His won’t make any more heat in the basically 10lb difference in cut in cut off cause his is capable of running high pressures and he is running well below the pumps capacity and also running 3phase


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3-Phase is always better if you are lucky enough to have it. I hope

Wish I had got this back running last year when I got the tank . This compressor is rock solid. The pressure switch works perfect Tony and I have used this thing a lot in the last two weeks.

At my age it will probably outlast me but I do feel great and don't plan on stop working. I think that's what keep us all going. Retirement just want not for me.

Tony, you got a good looking compressor . I would have painted mine but I didn't want to jink it I once painted a riding lawn mower that I rebuilt and it blew up soon after lol but that was 45 years ago.

I do see the same pressure switch I have now . Again thanks so much for your help. Maybe I can help you one day. Tom

 

[threeputt]

That Weaver is probably a DeVilbiss 432. Never heard if Weaver but that i.d. tag is a perfect knockoff and the crankcase around it looks identical.

I am not sure Weaver made this compressor but it does have their tag. Also, yes you are correct. The compressor is a DeVilbiss 432

 

[Fordoldfart]

90-120 psi will do most any home work shop work.

 

[threeputt]

90-120 psi will do most any home work shop work.

One year update. I have it set like you mentioned and all is good. This old compressor is still going. Use it almost everyday. Thanks again to Tony J and all who helped me on this project.
To add This was a fast year since I last posted about this compressor.

 

[TonyJ]

Glad to hear that it’s still up and going and your right that was a fast year that’s went by.

 

[redmondjp]

90-120 psi will do most any home work shop work.

True, but for busting loose axle nuts and harmonic balancer bolts, 135-150 psi is going to work much better especially with an older impact gun.

I have worked in a shop with a 2-stage compressor with this pressure range, and we used torque sticks to tighten the lug nuts which worked well. At home, with my 90-120psi single-stage compressor, I tried using the torque sticks on my own lug nuts. Well it turns out that torque sticks don't work properly if you apply too low of energy to them, so I went back to the manual torque wrench at home.

The torque stick is designed to hit a resonant point where the latest impulse applied hits the reflected (untwisting) previous impulse and cancels out, thereby limiting the applied torque to the fastener to a fixed level. You have to apply a higher level of power to the torque stick in order to ensure that you reach this resonant point else you will not reach the stick's advertised torque.

 

[sberry]

I think somone tightened the wrong screw to set up the pressure. The instructions are often in the cover cap. I agree you dont NEED to run this to the max but if I was on a 150 tank would run it close, it just works so much better if you are using it regular.

 

[sberry]

The paint makes a difference,,,, that quinc looks good. I would have been fine with a fixer upper for my last one I bought new, was harder to shop in those days.