So the other night I started checking my dads truck (2005 GMC 2500) over for it's annual state inspection. Found a couple of bulbs out and the rear brakes were just over the state minimum requirement of 2/32". So I removed the calipers and rotors, cleaned the caliper brackets and the rotor mounting surfaces of any rust. Today at lunch I called around to local shops and asked if they could turn a set of rotors if I brought them down. I called twelve shops and the only place that would turn rotors was a parts store with a machine shop. The eleven other shops said that they don't turn rotors anymore and that it's just cheaper to replace them. These rotors are the OE parts that came on the truck, they have been on there for 14 years and 138K miles, they have a slight amount of rust on the outer edge. The OE GM rotors are over $200 a piece for this truck, aftermarket rotors are around $75. I have never had good luck with aftermarket brake rotors so I was not going to go there. When I was in the dealership we always turned rotors and never had any issues. Why would you throw away a perfectly good part when you can spend about 15 minutes of time while charging a customer an hour labor? So what everyone was telling me to do was to toss away a quality part and replace it with aftermarket piece of ****. I have been out of the auto business for six years now, have things changed that much since then? Sorry for the rant, it's just that I don't get it.
Does anyone turn rotors and drums anymore?
- Thread starter Aqua-Andy
- Start date
texasprd
Well-known member
I still get my rotors turned, if they are thick enough. At $25/pr to turn them, its economically worth it for me.
sbosecker
Well-known member
Aqua-Andy,
It might be helpful to know where you are located.
It's probably been a couple of years or more since I had some rotors turned but I used a local Meineke Car Care Center when I did that. I don't know if they are in your area.
Best regards,
Scott
48RON54
Well-known member
Personally, for the hour or so I have to sit around and wait for them to get turned (this assumes a guy is sitting around waiting for something to do) I'll just go buy new ones. I only have one car, so having to find someone willing to waist an hour with me in the middle of the day is going to cost me lunch and a beer so not much savings to be had there once time is factored in.
I've had them do a bad job resurfacing them a couple times though so I'm reluctant to even try that again.
I can totally understand those of you that do though
I've had them do a bad job resurfacing them a couple times though so I'm reluctant to even try that again.
I can totally understand those of you that do though
Chevy-SS
Well-known member
Buy new rotors. End of story.
OR simply re-use the old ones without turning if they are reasonably good.
I owned two service stations back in 70's and we turned drums/rotors all the time, but that was because new parts were prohibitively expensive. Nowadays it's cheapest and most reliable to buy new rotors. I've done many brake jobs since I left the business, and I use new rotors whenever possible. I tried a few times to get local shop to turn drums/rotors but they always seemed to cause brake vibrations, so I just gave up. For me, it's new parts only. I mount every new rotor and spin it by hand with dial caliper to ensure minimum runout. If there is excess runout, it's always been because of rust or crud on the hub. Even the cheapest POS rotors spin true when mounted to clean hub.
Anyway, that's my $.02
OR simply re-use the old ones without turning if they are reasonably good.
I owned two service stations back in 70's and we turned drums/rotors all the time, but that was because new parts were prohibitively expensive. Nowadays it's cheapest and most reliable to buy new rotors. I've done many brake jobs since I left the business, and I use new rotors whenever possible. I tried a few times to get local shop to turn drums/rotors but they always seemed to cause brake vibrations, so I just gave up. For me, it's new parts only. I mount every new rotor and spin it by hand with dial caliper to ensure minimum runout. If there is excess runout, it's always been because of rust or crud on the hub. Even the cheapest POS rotors spin true when mounted to clean hub.
Anyway, that's my $.02
I guess the problem I have with all the aftermarket rotors that I have tried is that the metal falls apart within a couple of years, joys of living in the rust belt. They are just not the same quality as an OE part. Aftermarket rotors are cheap now because they are cheap, the quality is just ****. Back maybe 10 or 12 years ago GM came out with a less expensive brake products line under the AC Delco brand (they were just relabeled Raybestos blue box) . These brake parts were about half the retail cost of the genuine GM parts. This move did make the dealership more competitive in the market but at the cost of quality. We had nothing but problems with this line of products. I'm impressed that you go through the work of checking runout when mounting rotors. Very few techs do that these days, most of the other techs I worked with thought I was wasting my time checking runout.
kythri
Well-known member
Are there any caveats about turning slotted or cross-drilled rotors?
Bigblue&Goldie
Well-known member
I always have mine turned if I can. OEM rotors are always way nicer than aftermarket, or even OEM aftermarket in a lot of cases.
G1GRANDEUR
Well-known member
- Joined
- Aug 22, 2009
- Messages
- 2,094
personally I like to use only O.E rotors or Brembo blank. till they are too thin to turn.
quality of those cheap aftermarket rotors and pads are not worth it for me.
but i understand that nowadays cost of turning = new rotors.
quality of those cheap aftermarket rotors and pads are not worth it for me.
but i understand that nowadays cost of turning = new rotors.
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Good question. I've never had the opportunity to work with this type of rotor. I see you live in Oregon. The summer before last my wife, kids and friends of ours did a 10 week cross country RV trip, unfortunately I had to work for most of it. I did however fly out to Vegas and spend two weeks with the family during the west coast part of the trip. When we were in Northern Cal and Oregon I could not believe the amount of 30 or more year old vehicles I saw on the roads and they looked great. I live in New Hampshire and you would be hard pressed to find a ten year old vehicle that is not full of rust. On the upside used engines and drivetrain parts are very reasonable around here as our cars die from rot before the mechanical parts can wear out.
BajaScout
Well-known member
I have had to turn new rotors and especially drums. Quality parts are getting harder to find.
alexb2000
Well-known member
Me too. I picked up a brake lathe a couple of years ago because I was sick of taking off never turned OE and putting on Chinese ****. I just did brakes on my F250 using OE severe duty pads for $50 an axle and 2-3 hours including turning the OE rotors, can't beat that IMO.
OccupantRJ
Well-known member
I get mine machined by a nearby small town shop for $20 a pair. They do them while I wait, and we shoot the breeze while he is doing it.
visionguru
Well-known member
Never turned one, because turning result varies depending on the equipment and the operator.
Having been doing my brakes for 15 years with aftermarket rotors/pads, never had any issues, much cheaper and many cases better than OEM. As long as you avoid the dirt cheap ones, buy brand name (like $20~$50 per), you'll be ok.
For engine parts, parts with rubber, I'd go OEM only. Brake rotors, there are so many good choices.
Professional Tool User
Well-known member
Not worth it unless it's from an application where the rotors/drums are super expensive.
MileHighRover
Well-known member
- Joined
- Mar 13, 2018
- Messages
- 1,120
IF you have an O'Reilly auto parts store, they turn them for $15 a rotor. Just had mine done last month.
Not sure if Advance Auto Parts, AutoZone, etc do the same.
Not sure if Advance Auto Parts, AutoZone, etc do the same.
Mikeske
Well-known member
Most of the reason that rotors and drums are replaced and not turned down is the fact that most places that do brakes 1 don't want the liability of a failed rotor and 2nd all they have is part changers that would not know their thumb from their mouth. 3rd it is way faster and to slap the new parts on and send the customer on his way.
kctyphoon
Banned
At this point i think its just people’s preference over time vs money.. sometimes its just easier to replace, and most people i think would rather just do that. Not to mention for a shop - why buy an expensive piece of equipment that would take you a long time to actually earn money back on, when they can just markup a part instead and make a few bucks off every set they order for a customer and be profitable from day 1.
Where i am the labor rates are so high that there would be little to no difference in price in replacing vs resurfacing, but i bet dealerships are still resurfacing cause it would be hard to force people to swallow the price of OEM parts on top of their whole “book rate” schemes.
Where i am the labor rates are so high that there would be little to no difference in price in replacing vs resurfacing, but i bet dealerships are still resurfacing cause it would be hard to force people to swallow the price of OEM parts on top of their whole “book rate” schemes.
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Dave455
Well-known member
It’s got to depend on what you are dealing with.
Here in the U.K. I can get OEM parts for most British or European vehicles at very reasonable prices so it’s often not worth it. Thankfully for us, the days when you had to choose between Original Equipment (good but costly) and aftermarket (not so good) are pretty much gone. Most parts suppliers here offer an original equipment option, to the original spec, usually from a known maker, at reasonable price.
Some stuff though, mostly sports and high performance, is very expensive and worth having skimmed, especially if they just have a glaze. Thankfully, these are usually meaty enough that you can. No problem getting it done!
I encounter different problems though, and often the issue is simply corrosion, especially on low use vehicles. I tend to blast these off and enamel paint them, which is a big improvement. I enamel paint (not the contact surfaces, obviously) rotors for my own vehicles before installation now!
Here in the U.K. I can get OEM parts for most British or European vehicles at very reasonable prices so it’s often not worth it. Thankfully for us, the days when you had to choose between Original Equipment (good but costly) and aftermarket (not so good) are pretty much gone. Most parts suppliers here offer an original equipment option, to the original spec, usually from a known maker, at reasonable price.
Some stuff though, mostly sports and high performance, is very expensive and worth having skimmed, especially if they just have a glaze. Thankfully, these are usually meaty enough that you can. No problem getting it done!
I encounter different problems though, and often the issue is simply corrosion, especially on low use vehicles. I tend to blast these off and enamel paint them, which is a big improvement. I enamel paint (not the contact surfaces, obviously) rotors for my own vehicles before installation now!
dalehsc
ALLIANCE MEMBER
If it's for maintenance of the rotor(rust,glazing),you may get by,if you are turning the rotor to get rid of pulsation,forget it,a thinner rotor is more prone to warp. Here in the rust belt a brake job requires new rotors.
OccupantRJ
Well-known member
I was in a garage in town yesterday. We got to talking about older machinery because he knows I like to do refurb on them. He pointed to the brake lathe on one side of the bay and made the comment that he had not used it in the last 5 years, so there’s that.
Locker537
Well-known member
An alternative opinion...
I would buy new OE rotors. Your prior set lasted 138K. That's good life. New parts, clean everything being re-used, and potentially never have to do brakes again for the life of the vehicle or your ownership.
I would buy new OE rotors. Your prior set lasted 138K. That's good life. New parts, clean everything being re-used, and potentially never have to do brakes again for the life of the vehicle or your ownership.
The Fall
Well-known member
We always turn them. The guy at the end of the bay has a brake lathe. The only time we don't is when they're pitted (the car has been sitting for years) or out of spec.
We work on Studebakers and other cars where getting replacement parts can be difficult or unavailable from Advanced, O'Reilly's, etc. for quick turnaround.
It's $20 to turn a pair of rotors. Our neighbor recently did it on my 2007 Silverado. Saved me some money. If our friend is out, one of the parts drivers will take rotors/drums back to the store and return them the same day after turning them.
People just don't want to do it anymore like they used to. Parts prices (and quality) has dropped. It seems like on-car brake latches are the new thing. Just another overpriced gizmo to buy on credit.
I'm glad the guy at the end of bay has a brake lathe. It's saved us time sourcing some drums and our customers money.
We work on Studebakers and other cars where getting replacement parts can be difficult or unavailable from Advanced, O'Reilly's, etc. for quick turnaround.
It's $20 to turn a pair of rotors. Our neighbor recently did it on my 2007 Silverado. Saved me some money. If our friend is out, one of the parts drivers will take rotors/drums back to the store and return them the same day after turning them.
People just don't want to do it anymore like they used to. Parts prices (and quality) has dropped. It seems like on-car brake latches are the new thing. Just another overpriced gizmo to buy on credit.
I'm glad the guy at the end of bay has a brake lathe. It's saved us time sourcing some drums and our customers money.
Robbie B
Well-known member
O’reilley auto usually has the capability to turn rotors and drums provided that they have someone who can run the lathe.
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Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Farmall450
Well-known member
I don't disagree, but I've had really good luck on my 2002 2500HD, which sees similiar use as your dads, not a ton of miles, and rust is more of an issue before wear. It was over 200k when I did the rear pads and rotors. Actually had a rear caliper go first, which made me decide to do it all then.
The fronts got their second set of pads and turned rotors (I did myself in HS) around 200k.
I've had good luck with NAPA rotors on the rear, but if that's a worry, the $400 for OEM stretched out over the next 140k miles is pretty darn cheap. Since you can do the work I would go with the cheaper brake pads. The hard rocks just are too noisy, imo; if I ever have to change the pads again I'll throw the cheap ones in for the relatively small amount of my time it takes.
Farmall450
Well-known member
Agreed. That's basically what my essay turned into at the end of the thread.
Mecha
Well-known member
Thank God there is places that still do it. I recently had my wife's rotors and pads replaced with new Powerstop branded stuff from Rock Auto just before a cross country move. After trailering a few different times the brakes pulsated badly. Also we live on a mountain now. I'd had them for 6 months. Took it to a local long time shop they took a look, did a turn on them and now they work perfect. Apparently the installer never bed the brakes.
Also to those who are looking for good close to OEM quality, I've had excellent luck with Powerstop pads and rotors. Multiple cars and trucks.
Also to those who are looking for good close to OEM quality, I've had excellent luck with Powerstop pads and rotors. Multiple cars and trucks.
ken w.
Well-known member
I have my own brake lathe. I turn mostly drums. I will put new drums & rotors on to check that it spins true. Here in the northeast rotors are not worth turning after 2-3 years in the snow and salt.
ScottsGT
Well-known member
Years ago I use to have luck with turning them, but for the past 15 year or so, just replace them. About 2 years ago I tried to salvage some OEM Honda rotors on the wife's '13 Pilot. They lasted about 2 weeks, or until the first rainy day and warped again. I ordered Stop Tech Cryogenic rotors and OEM pads and all has been good since.
All I will use now is Cryogenic rotors and OEM pads if I can find them. I cannot tell you how many sets of budget rotors I swapped until I realized I was just beating my head against the wall.
FWIW, my personal experience on turning warped rotors is that once warped, they will warp again after they were turned. And easier because now they are thinner.
All I will use now is Cryogenic rotors and OEM pads if I can find them. I cannot tell you how many sets of budget rotors I swapped until I realized I was just beating my head against the wall.
FWIW, my personal experience on turning warped rotors is that once warped, they will warp again after they were turned. And easier because now they are thinner.
Chevy-SS
Well-known member
Ya know, this is a good post ^^^^^. I used to turn a lot of rotors and drums back in the 70's, and we seemed to have good luck with them. I honestly cannot ever recall a customer coming back with brake shudder complaints. But I must say, we were very careful to set the machine (and parts) up properly, so that the cutting was true.
I sold my service equipment many decades ago, and since then, I have farmed out a few rotors and drums for turning .... with HORRIBLE results. Maybe it's the guys doing the work, or I just don't know what it is. But I am totally done with turning rotors and drums. It's new parts from now on.
jgromada
Well-known member
I think i am the same as most people if i am doing brakes i like to have everything i need ahead of time. No way i want to have a car sitting up on jack stands waiting for them to be turned. I guess one could buy one replacement and then if your original rotors were still thick enough you could send those out and they would be waiting. But it could be YEARs ! before they might be used. Rotors just sitting around tend to rust even if stored in garage or something
ovilla
Well-known member
I’m in Chicago and found O’Reilly and Pep Boys turn them, for like $20 per rotor.
I just picked up an AMMCO 4000 rotors and drums brake lathe for $300 last summer. I know this sounds a bit expensive but a front set of brembos for just one of my Porsche’s is more than that, so this machine will pay for itself really quick. Plus I’ve just always wanted one of these lathes too.
frankd
Well-known member
When changing the pads on my wife's minivan I called a bunch of local shops and couldn't find a shop that would turn the rotors. I ended up finding a pep boys about 20 miles away that said they would do it for $150!!
I ended up buying Centric premium rotors for around $100.
Around here I just don't think there are enough people that need the service, and maybe the shops don't want to deal with such small dollar jobs. Also, for the time and hassle of bringing the rotors somewhere and waiting...I'd rather just buy new ones
I ended up buying Centric premium rotors for around $100.
Around here I just don't think there are enough people that need the service, and maybe the shops don't want to deal with such small dollar jobs. Also, for the time and hassle of bringing the rotors somewhere and waiting...I'd rather just buy new ones
Parrothead
Well-known member
Rotors turned? Nope
I’m paying $82 for the Akebono performance pads, I’m not going to cheap out with turned rotors. The Centric Cryogenically treated rotors are $79 each.
If I wanted basic Centric rotors they’re $49 each.
I’m paying $82 for the Akebono performance pads, I’m not going to cheap out with turned rotors. The Centric Cryogenically treated rotors are $79 each.
If I wanted basic Centric rotors they’re $49 each.
I quit turning rotors years ago when I had a sudden brake pad failure (disintegration!) on my '91 Explorer in the middle of winter 1200 miles from home. The rotor was visibly trashed, but under the circumstances the best I could do was slap new pads on and pray. I replaced both sides just for luck.
Fast forward 40K miles or so, and the brakes were still working perfectly when I sold it.
If a rotor is bad enough it's causing noticeable problems - shimmy, shudder, screech - I replace it. No more turning.
Fast forward 40K miles or so, and the brakes were still working perfectly when I sold it.
If a rotor is bad enough it's causing noticeable problems - shimmy, shudder, screech - I replace it. No more turning.
2ndGearRubber
Well-known member
I'll try to save non-euro OE rotors. No sense cutting aftermarket rotors, cost and forever owning any brake pulse the customer may get makes it not worth it. No point in cutting the soft euro rotors either, when they have 20thou of dish on each side. Pulsation means NO on cutting, new or nothing.
Most of the rotors around here are typically quite rust rotted, so they're not even candidates. IME just about any rotor is fine, in most applications. Clean the hub, grind the rust off the brackets, grease above and below the hardware, bed them in.
I have always turned my rotors & still do. Seems like a waste of money to just replace rotors everytime of they are still useable (thick enough to turn). I've had my truck for a long time & don't ever plan on selling it. I have 2 sets of Centric rotors (used to have Brembo but will never buy Brembo blanks again), well one on the truck & one spare set. So when it's time to do brakes I just get the spare set turned ahead of time then when I replace my brakes it's a quick job, no waitiing for rotors to get turned.
I now take my rotors to a mom & pop shop auto parts store to get turned, $10ea. Chain auto parts stores charge double & they take forever, sometimes more than one day cause "the guy who runs the brake lathe doesn't work today".
Whoever asked about drilled/slotted rotors getting turned. Yes you can turn em, I used to do it all the time when I worked at a performance shop. Some customers wanted the cheapest rotors available & we've had to turn em right out the box cause they weren't true.
When my dad had a 5 series bimmer, dealer said you can't turn the rotors cause if you do they will be under the minimum recommended thickness since that vehicle's tolerances were tight. Need to replace rotors every brake job. Now I could understand if some new cars are made that way but I never did bother to check if that was BS or not. He's had em turned before (by the shop he goes to) & we don't own that car anymore.
I now take my rotors to a mom & pop shop auto parts store to get turned, $10ea. Chain auto parts stores charge double & they take forever, sometimes more than one day cause "the guy who runs the brake lathe doesn't work today".
Whoever asked about drilled/slotted rotors getting turned. Yes you can turn em, I used to do it all the time when I worked at a performance shop. Some customers wanted the cheapest rotors available & we've had to turn em right out the box cause they weren't true.
When my dad had a 5 series bimmer, dealer said you can't turn the rotors cause if you do they will be under the minimum recommended thickness since that vehicle's tolerances were tight. Need to replace rotors every brake job. Now I could understand if some new cars are made that way but I never did bother to check if that was BS or not. He's had em turned before (by the shop he goes to) & we don't own that car anymore.
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