Framing in and insulating pole building

[Ethernaut85]

Planning on framing in and insulating this building over the winter and I had a couple questions regarding framing in this wall here with the header?



My thought was nailing a 2x10 ripped down to cover that gap then framing with 2x4s in traditional 16” centers. I’d have to shim out the 6x6’s and 2x6’s to be flush with that header you see at the top. Then my plan was to insulate with unfaced r19, since the building is wrapped with that reflectix bubble wrap. From what I’ve read that is my vapor barrier.

Then above what would be my top plate that my studs will nail into, I was going to just let the blow in insulation I’m putting in the attic be the insulation for that 10-12” or so

Does anyone see any issue with this?


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[brownsmustang]

You could do that. I slid the 2x4s behind it and just screwed them to it. Mine just worked out to be 8ft to the bottom of my top wrap so my plywood sheeting fit perfectly so I just left it exposed.

 

[Ethernaut85]

You could do that. I slid the 2x4s behind it and just screwed them to it. Mine just worked out to be 8ft to the bottom of my top wrap so my plywood sheeting fit perfectly so I just left it exposed.

Did you have the foil insulation between your Perkins and the metal sheeting?

That’s the main thing throwing me off, trying to decide if I should use faces or unfaced batts


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[Augus7us]

I'm doing this now. I have 6x4 posts but I framed with 2x4. I didn't bother with ripping boards or anything up under that top banding board. I'm just going to stuff some batts up there and let them rest on the top plate of my walls.

I also did walls on 24" centers because they are not structural. In fact my walls in between my posts looked like the roman numeral III, it used a total of five boards to save on costs, again they aren't structural so I just want something to hang batts and drywall.

On the blown in, I have sofits up there so I'll have attic baffles and blown in wouldn't work where the banding boards are. That's where I'll stuff the batts and the rest of the ceiling will get the blown in.

I'm using visqueen for a vapor barrier. To my knowledge it needs to be on the inside of the building. I'm just an amateur so take my advice for what its worth!

 

[Ethernaut85]

I'm doing this now. I have 6x4 posts but I framed with 2x4. I didn't bother with ripping boards or anything up under that top banding board. I'm just going to stuff some batts up there and let them rest on the top plate of my walls.

I also did walls on 24" centers because they are not structural. In fact my walls in between my posts looked like the roman numeral III, it used a total of five boards to save on costs, again they aren't structural so I just want something to hang batts and drywall.

On the blown in, I have sofits up there so I'll have attic baffles and blown in wouldn't work where the banding boards are. That's where I'll stuff the batts and the rest of the ceiling will get the blown in.

I'm using visqueen for a vapor barrier. To my knowledge it needs to be on the inside of the building. I'm just an amateur so take my advice for what its worth!

Did you put a board all the way across the banding board on the bottom, blocking off the air going up into your attic space?


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[Voi]

Did you have the foil insulation between your Perkins and the metal sheeting?

That’s the main thing throwing me off, trying to decide if I should use faces or unfaced batts.

I believe in your climate the vapor barrier needs to be on the conditioned side of the structure. So if you use faced batts you'll have the possibility of vapor being trapped between two barriers, with the foil being one of them.

However, I'm not sure how big of a deal this is in Kentucky.

I have heard of people going to the extreme of removing the foil insulation between the girts but I wouldn't do that without some more research for your climate zone.

As far as framing, I would not personally use traditional framing between columns and over girts since there is the potential of the slab moving independently from the walls.

I'd either do the wide insulation blankets or bookshelf girts with horizontal insulation.

 

[Augus7us]

Did you put a board all the way across the banding board on the bottom, blocking off the air going up into your attic space?


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Not technically because the space between the two boards is 5.5" and I used 2x4's to build my stud walls. Once I put insulation between my banding board it will essentially be blocked off though. Air will get into my attic space via my sofits which are above the banding boards. And my memory kicked in just now, the 'banding boards' are actually called truss carriers.

All that said, like your shop, my truss carriers are in the conditioned side of the shop so you're going to want some insulation up there. Air should get into your attic via the sofits, that's why I mentioned attic baffles if you're going to use blown in insulation up top.

I can take some photos if you want, next time I'm out in the shop.