The VISES of Garage Journal

[4Nines]

I have that vise but stamped as Chas parker. What do you need to know?

I'm hoping that the mounting bolt holes line up to match the attached templet. Any chance you could check and see if all the mounting holes are equal distance apart? It sounds easy, but it's really hard to find a vise that has three mounting holes that are all exactly the same distance apart.

I'm offering a $100 reward to anyone who can find a vise that matches these dimensions and I will pay REALLY good money if you have the actual vise!

 

[Serrat Yasargil]

So I looked at Andrews IG given the wall of vises. I don’t get it. Is IG just to post pics? There was something he had for sale. But does he actually sell stuff off of IG? Or does he have another site where he sells his stuff? As you can tell, I am anti-social media ****.
IG~Instagram

 

[Perrorojo]

So I looked at Andrews IG given the wall of vises. I don’t get it. Is IG just to post pics? There was something he had for sale. But does he actually sell stuff off of IG? Or does he have another site where he sells his stuff? As you can tell, I am anti-social media ****.
IG~Instagram

You'd need to send him a direct message about the item to buy something. Instagram is predominantly pictures and short videos.

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[NastyNate]

I'm hoping that the mounting bolt holes line up to match the attached templet. Any chance you could check and see if all the mounting holes are equal distance apart? It sounds easy, but it's really hard to find a vise that has three mounting holes that are all exactly the same distance apart.

I'm offering a $100 reward to anyone who can find a vise that matches these dimensions and I will pay REALLY good money if you have the actual vise!

Yea mines not even close to that. Its a "standard" base layout almost like a stationary vise.

 

[Shiftless]

Here is an uncommonly large clamp on vise. Brink and Cotton, 3 inch wide jaws and an ability to clamp onto a work table 2 inches thick.

I bought it last week for $10 and just finished removing some rust from the 2 sliding posts, some polishing and some straightening up on the clamper handle.

Here are 2 pics. There is a Wilton C1 for scale in the first pic and a baby bullet in the second.

The true color is a medium gray which didn’t come through too well in these night time shots.

 

[Shiftless]

.
Here is something some might find interesting.

I was playing around with an extra vise body that I’ve had laying around for a while. (Would make a very effective paperweight )
I decided to surface the sides of the jaws and after some polishing I noticed a distinct line of demarcation where the factory somehow attached the hardened jaw faces. Cast in place. Notice the shape of the hardened steel. I found that interesting. I hope somebody else does too.

 

[seanmnaes]

.
Cast in place. Notice the shape of the hardened steel. I found that interesting. I hope somebody else does too.

I wonder what the point of such an elaborate profile is if you're just going to cast it in place. I don't think you could mill that, you would have to use a shaper or something. Maybe they thought the curve would press into the casting over time.

-Sean

 

[kenc184]

I wonder how "cast in place" works? If tney just put a bar of hardened steel in the mold,wouldn't the heat of casting have a negative effect on the hardness of the jaws? I've also seen similar non screwed in faces identified as "welded", I think it was Reed but I might be wrong?

 

[trijeff]

I didn't want this thing in the truck with me if I got in an accident. Even outside it would probably be like shooting a cannon ball if you got in an accident at highway speeds.

Shiftless and I were just talking about this during his visit a couple days ago. I always ratchet strap down a vise in the back of my truck. Probably unnaturally so, it honestly makes me a little nervous/uneasy when I see photos on here of unsecured vises in autos because I picture in my mind what would possibly/likely happen in a crash.

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[kenc184]

That would be this guy I saw it come up and was like eh I don’t know and but ended up taking the plunge.


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Selling it already Rusty?

 

[rusty65]

Selling it already Rusty?

I don’t really collect Parker vises unless they are the double swivel kind.


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[Shiftless]

Shiftless and I were just talking about this during his visit a couple days ago. I always ratchet strap down a vise in the back of my truck. Probably unnaturally so, it honestly makes me a little nervous/uneasy when I see photos on here of unsecured vises in autos because I picture in my mind what would possibly/likely happen in a crash.

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Right!
Truck drivers have been killed in relatively minor crashes when their loads shift forward and penetrate the cab from behind. Think pipe or I beams. Gruesome stuff.

I dropped by trijeff’s shop for a visit while westbound through his town on the return leg of an almost 200 mile round trip vise buy with a Craftsman 5196 in the trunk. Not strapped down but in a recessed section of the trunk of a car with a back seat. I made it home safely with this one that I bought from Honza.Vosalik

 

[PghJKB]

.
Here is something some might find interesting.

I was playing around with an extra vise body that I’ve had laying around for a while. (Would make a very effective paperweight )
I decided to surface the sides of the jaws and after some polishing I noticed a distinct line of demarcation where the factory somehow attached the hardened jaw faces. Cast in place. Notice the shape of the hardened steel. I found that interesting. I hope somebody else does too.

Me

If you take some more metal off it gets a bit more interestinger (I just made up a word!)

I have two small Reeds(they are fairly common around her, very common a bit further north) that both have what appears to be brazing on the top of the jaws - my guess is that they were seconds. I have to dig them out.

JKB

 

[va.grouseman]

Shift, that is a beauty.---Easy life.---Look forward to the after shot.

 

[Shiftless]

Shift, that is a beauty.---Easy life.---Look forward to the after shot.

Thanks va
It might be a while until that one gets rehabbed. For now it’s sitting up on the shelf next to its 5191 brother.

 

[honza.vosalik]

Thanks va
It might be a while until that one gets rehabbed. For now it’s sitting up on the shelf next to its 5191 brother.

Don't you also have a 5197? You should put it next to them

 

[Reversepolarity]

Picked up this Hollands 14 1/2 vise today.
Any info on the age of this model?




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[Smitty]

The vise looks like it’s going to clean up really well, nice find.

 

[Reversepolarity]

The vise looks like it’s going to clean up really well, nice find.

It is in great shape



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[Bottlecapdigger]

Just recently came across this vise while in Vegas, anyone want to guess where I see it? BCD.

 

[bikencycle]

That is a pretty serious off road rig in the back ground. Probably not one of the casinos.

 

[rusty65]

Picked up this Hollands 14 1/2 vise today.
Any info on the age of this model?




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Probably somewhere from 1930-1960. Holland’s Made that model for many years.


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[Smitty]

Just recently came across this vise while in Vegas, anyone want to guess where I see it? BCD.

Fingerprinting?

 

[bargainhuntingking]

While I’m not a big fan of exposed screws, this 3.5” Wards Master Quality anvil vise followed me home from an antiques’ arcade. It’s smooth, solid and heavy. Good old USA iron. I tried to leave it on the floor and walk away but it kept luring me back.


Edit: This is the vise featured in the 1941 Montgomery Ward catalog:

 

[Shiftless]

For sale near me...asking $105. Looks like a C Zero

I’ve never seen this kind of damage to the jaws.

 

[davethorik]

My Athol 325-1/2X has similar jaw damage/wear. I'm guessing repetitive use of an air belt sander on a part held in the vise...just a guess, though. That or constant hammering day in and day out for 50 years.

 

[Smitty]

For sale near me...asking $105. Looks like a C Zero

I’ve never seen this kind of damage to the jaws.

I saw that, the vise is beat to death. What a shame.

 

[Smitty]

Bargain
It’s a cool piece of Americana that was waiting for you to walk by.

 

[Shiftless]

Bargain
It’s a cool piece of Americana that was waiting for you to walk by.

So is this...

As I get older, I see more clearly that all cool old pieces of Americana are not worth messing with.

Some things are fixable...others aren’t.

 

[Smitty]

Do they sell evaporust in 55 gallon drums?

I finally found my C0 today

 

[kenc184]

So is this...

As I get older, I see more clearly that all cool old pieces of Americana are not worth messing with.

Some things are fixable...others aren’t.

As the owner of a 57 and a 56 Chev I can assure you that a 57 convertible IS worth saving! Those things fetch a mint.

 

[rusty65]

As the owner of a 57 and a 56 Chev I can assure you that a 57 convertible IS worth saving! Those things fetch a mint.

Yeah and honestly the vin and frame are probably worth a good chunk of change.


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[jmhinkle]

Couple of new additions for the collection.

Prentiss bulldog 263 in pretty nice shape. Only real issues are the handle itself is pretty beat, where the handle sits on the nose is flared out and the wrench for the base is missing.

And an Athol 10 for the smaller side. Surprisingly heavy and very stout for its size.

For size comparison.

 

[kenc184]

Picked up an extremely rough 1750 the other day. I've fixed most of the issues, but am left with the task of removing four totally rusted in screw shanks. I had to drill out the heads to remove the one and a half jaws present.

anyone here have some "cast iron" advice on the best way to do this. I usually use heat with the oxy and try to twist out the shank but they ineveitably break and I have to drill them out and retap.

Please don't advise useless **** like kroil or pb blaster, in my many decades of fixing stuff I have never had any success with penetrating fluid of any type. Sure it's fine to lube a dry thread once a nut or bolt has been loosened but it never penetrates into a truly frozen joint. Never.

In the past I've tried welding on a piece of steel to the shank and trying to twist it out but same story, something usually snaps off, either the weld or the shank.

Anyway if you have good personal experience with getting these things out I'd love to benefit from it.

 

[nutjob]

Anyway if you have good personal experience with getting these things out I'd love to benefit from it.

Heat the vise cherry red, than weld a nut onto the screw stud.
Back in the day we removed lots of broken off bolts from exhaust manifolds heating them red and than vise grips.

I have had good luck just welding a nut on to the broken bolt/screw.

I broke 2 pin punches getting jaw pins out of a Parker 204. Got the torch out with the rosebud and got it red. No problem after that.

Heat, Heat, Heat

Kevin

 

[rusty65]

Ken: if I were you I would try a pair of vise grips first and then weld if it didn’t work but that’s just me because I don’t have a torch or welder.


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[MetalChick]

Hi All,

I'm looking for some information on a Yost 102 vise, but I can't find any. Can anyone help me out?

 

[rusty65]

Hi All,



I'm looking for some information on a Yost 102 vise, but I can't find any. Can anyone help me out?

Honestly I’ve never heard of that model before. How wide are the clamping jaws and how far do you think it opens?


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[Mr. Wonderful]

Picked up an extremely rough 1750 the other day. I've fixed most of the issues, but am left with the task of removing four totally rusted in screw shanks. I had to drill out the heads to remove the one and a half jaws present.

anyone here have some "cast iron" advice on the best way to do this. I usually use heat with the oxy and try to twist out the shank but they ineveitably break and I have to drill them out and retap.

Please don't advise useless **** like kroil or pb blaster, in my many decades of fixing stuff I have never had any success with penetrating fluid of any type. Sure it's fine to lube a dry thread once a nut or bolt has been loosened but it never penetrates into a truly frozen joint. Never.

In the past I've tried welding on a piece of steel to the shank and trying to twist it out but same story, something usually snaps off, either the weld or the shank.

Anyway if you have good personal experience with getting these things out I'd love to benefit from it.


Ken, you read my mind. Never once has the oil worked for me either. Its always been either brute force or drilling and re-tapping. I did see some have very good luck online a while back with left hand drill bits when I was trying to solve your same problem. I am almost ready to purchase a set. Good luck.

 

[Shiftless]

ken:
Mr. W.:
May I respectfully disagree with you guys about penetrating oil. I think I am not the only one who has has success with stuck fasteners using Kroil or a few other high quality products.

Sure, it isn’t magic. The hand of God doesn’t come down and spin the screws out for you.
But I have used impact tools to loosen fasteners what wouldn’t budge dry. After a few minutes soaking with Kroil, the same impact tool successfully did the job. To me, that demonstrates the value of penetrating oil.