Garage door reverses just before closed

[superduty1]

I have a garage door that reverses just before it gets to the bottom. It gets about 2 inches from the bottom and reverses back up. It reverses probably 80-90% of the time and other times it goes to the bottom as it is supposed to.

It is a Liftmaster 8500 opener. I have double checked the door limits.

Garage door is about 5-6 years old. Professionally installed. I have 3 of the same doors with the 8500 openers. I called out the installer about 2 yrs ago for this problem and they said the springs needed adjustment. They adjusted the springs and the door actually worked for some time. I am guessing on dates, but a number of months after they adjusted the springs it started having the same problem again.

I recall the service guy said that the springs need regular adjustment or this will happen. The other two doors, installed on the same date, have never been adjusted and work perfect.

I am skeptical that this is a spring issue, but I am far from an expert.

I will add that if I pull / force the door downward as it nears the bottom it will go to the bottom and not reverse.

 

[rlitman]

Disconnect the opener and manually open and close the door. Something is probably sticking.

 

[superduty1]

Disconnect the opener and manually open and close the door. Something is probably sticking.

When you say disconnect it, do you mean put it in to manual mode, by pulling the rope?

 

[SGKent]

Put the door down then pull the manual rope - then lift it to see if it balances about 1/2 way up. Don't pull it with the door up in case the door is too heavy and slams to the ground, damaging it and hurting someone.

There are limit adjusters on most door openers for how much resistance they feel before opening - to protect if a child or pet was there. Also there is a infrared beam that could be dirty, webs in it, or out or of adjustment.

My door was 9 1/2 years old and never needed spring adjustment. I just had the springs replaced last week because the average life of a spring is 8 - 10 years.

 

[curiousB]

Openers reverse when they sense a restriction in travel. This is unrelated to the door travel limit settings.

You can adjust the force to open and close but you should really ensure the door travels smoothly when disconnected from the opener first (yes pulling the rope to unlink the opener from the door). Its a bad idea to correct a binding door by turning up the force setting. The reversing door is a safety feature you don't want to undermine.

 

[MattRMagnum]

I have a garage door that reverses just before it gets to the bottom. It gets about 2 inches from the bottom and reverses back up. It reverses probably 80-90% of the time and other times it goes to the bottom as it is supposed to.

I had this problem for a long time (since I rarely opened that particular bay, I just disconnected the motor and clamped the door shut, and opened it manually from the inside.

I finally got sick of it, and had a garage door company come take a look. Something was up with the alignment of the tracks, and so one side was dragging a tiny amount, and seemingly it caused the door to think it had "hit" something and then open back up (safety mechanism). The guy fixed that, replaced the spring and cleaned the area up for $250. Maybe call a company out and see if they think it needs repair?

 

[superduty1]

Put the door down then pull the manual rope - then lift it to see if it balances about 1/2 way up. Don't pull it with the door up in case the door is too heavy and slams to the ground, damaging it and hurting someone.

There are limit adjusters on most door openers for how much resistance they feel before opening - to protect if a child or pet was there. Also there is a infrared beam that could be dirty, webs in it, or out or of adjustment.

My door was 9 1/2 years old and never needed spring adjustment. I just had the springs replaced last week because the average life of a spring is 8 - 10 years.

Seriously, those springs only last 10 years?

I don't think I've ever spoken to anyone who has replaced them. Unlike the old school seeing up garage door springs.

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[2level]

Is anything obstructing the beam/eye? I've seen that issue with a giant poster that's taped onto the inside of the overhead door.

 

[superduty1]

I don't feel any obstruction. Once it gets to a few feet above the ground it seems gravity takes over and causes the door to close so if there is any obstruction i can't feel it.

I will clean those eye sensors again to ensure no issue there.

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[Viper98912]

You've either got something sticking (causing too much friction) or you might have a slipping clamp somewhere and it keeps slipping back into position when it reaches the full open position.

 

[superduty1]

You've either got something sticking (causing too much friction) or you might have a slipping clamp somewhere and it keeps slipping back into position when it reaches the full open position.

There doesn't seem to be any friction once it gets a few inches from ground. With opener disconnected it falls to ground on its own at that point.

I just noticed this part of the door where there is a handle appears to be protruding a bit. I wonder if that is catching the sensor eye. It would be in the correct location for when it reverses.

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[Lassen Forge]

I can see it being a spring issue, if it has too much tension keeping it from closing, the auto-sensor on the lift will think it's coming into something in the way (like your kid) and auto-reversing instead of the spring stopping it. BUT... that means your door, when released from the opener drive (pulling the little emergency lever thingy) should spring open.

The only time I've seen springs being replaced is when they break, and that's pretty rare, and not after only 10 years.

Regardless, the sensor in your opener needs to be readjusted to where it will still stop and reverse when it hits something, but not when it hits the regular spring tension.

Otherwise it's probably gunk or crud on your door rails, or (I've seen this more often than not) a rail misalignment, causing it to bind down near the bottom. FAR moore likely than a "worn out spring" which would cause more weight from the door on the lifting mechanism, not less.

 

[TriumphFan]

Hmmm, I had this issue and I ended up replacing the circuit board. Cost about $60 and was plug and play.

 

[PassnThru]

Seriously, those springs only last 10 years?

No. Torsion springs should last longer than that. If they don't, then the door wasn't adjusted correctly to begin with.

 

[Jeepster04]

Watch the led on the sensor and see if it flickers.

Mine was doing something similar and it was a bad connection for the sensor. Someone just twisted the wires together and over time they corroded. Vibration from the door caused it to randomly reverse.

Anyway, I could see the led on the sensor flickering as fhe door went down. Thats how I knew to suspect the sensors.

 

[Glaffer]

There doesn't seem to be any friction once it gets a few inches from ground. With opener disconnected it falls to ground on its own at that point.

I just noticed this part of the door where there is a handle appears to be protruding a bit. I wonder if that is catching the sensor eye. It would be in the correct location for when it reverses.

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That will cause your issue. Can you move the handle up higher?

 

[superduty1]

I gave it a good whack outward and the garage has now closed properly a few times.

It looks like something happened there which caused that handle to protrude.

The other doors have handle in same spot. I think a bit higher would make more sense.

That may have been the problem.

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[ghnl]

That handle might be the issue. Easy to remove it for a test. But why would it now cause the problem? Are the sensor lights aimed properly?

If not the handle/sensor positions, it might be a slipping set screw. See: https://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=381524&highlight=liftmaster+3800 & https://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=207656

View media item 54906

 

[superduty1]

As i mentioned it looks like there is some damage at the base near where that handle is that might be causing it to protrude inward.

I will speculate that depending on whether it pushes in a bit is whether it triggers the sensor. Maybe that's why 90% of the time it's no good and the few times it pushes outward it doesn't hit the sensor.

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[Hubmonkey]

Take the handle off and move it to a better location. Mine are on the side about 3 feet off the floor.

Hub

 

[ScottsGT]

Had a similar issue one time. It was the perfect time of the day for sun light to be beaming directly into the sensor.

 

[vrinner]

Similar issue here and it ended up being the sensors were just at their limits and it seemed like the weight of the doors would cause the sensor to be slightly off and cause the door to go back up. Once I re-centered the sensors problem went away.

 

[couch67]

not familiar with that brand but most systems have a diagnostics LED that blinks when something is wrong. Count the blinks and look up online or in the manual.

 

[Turducken]

A co-worker had this problem. It took ages to isolate the problem to one circuit in the house. It was a bedroom clock radio causing the problem.

 

[ludakris04]

mine does this sometimes... change remote batteries?
or reset limits..(I think mine is because of the set screw thing)....

 

[superduty1]

A co-worker had this problem. It took ages to isolate the problem to one circuit in the house. It was a bedroom clock radio causing the problem.

How did the clock radio cause the problem?

Are we talking about a modern day garage door?

While i appreciate all the feedback, Sometimes i feel the suggestions on forums can be more confusing than helpful.

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[superduty1]

mine does this sometimes... change remote batteries?
or reset limits..(I think mine is because of the set screw thing)....

I think you have some other problem and it's not what i described.

I have zero clue how changing remote batteries could be the problem. Unless when your remote is low on batteries it is sending a second signal to the opener at the exact split second when there garage door is 2 inches from the bottom. In which case you have a problem with your remote likely not battery related.

As i said, I'm no expert, however i have been using electric garage doors and gates for 40 years and have changed my share of remote batteries. Never once have i experienced such a phenomenon with low batteries.

In reading the above posts i think you will see it's not the limit switches. I have set those and the symptoms are not such since it does close properly sometimes.


I appreciate the suggestions, but that is 100% not the problem I'm having.




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[19Vert64]

Had similar issue and needed to adjust the cable tensioner sensor, the bolt the roller was on was slightly bent, took it apart straightened it and reinstalled, works great now. Good luck


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[jubilee]

My springs are about 45 years old. Doors opened daily usually multiple times. Guess I better budget in new springs after reading some of the above posts.

 

[VT JD]

Hopefully gnpenning will see your post and chime in.

He has a great deal of experience with these openers and may be able to help solve your problem.

 

[Dave in Mass]

I can bypass my sensors by holding the wall switch down (I have about a month of the sun in the sensor issues some days in the summer whne I get home from work).

This is a good troubleshooting trick before you start adjusting doors, springs, etc...

 

[Hubmonkey]

I can bypass my sensors by holding the wall switch down (I have about a month of the sun in the sensor issues some days in the summer whne I get home from work).

Use a toilet paper roll to slip over the sensor and zip-tie it in place to keep the sun off of it. Had to do that on my last house.

Hub

 

[Stevie-Ray]

Take the handle off and move it to a better location. Mine are on the side about 3 feet off the floor.

Hub

Yup, handles should definitely not be down that low.

 

[Hot Rod Grampa]

So here are a couple of things to try. If you are standing in the garage and push the button to close, watch the green eye sensor. If the green light goes out for a moment and the door reverses, the problem is with the track, an in bent door panel, or even a leaf hanging off a cobweb. Yes I've seen it. Sweep the bottom of the door, check that the track isn't too tight when door gets down. It will still close but pushes the track apart causing the eyes to stop seeing each other. The other sensor on those openers is on your cable. If there is enough slack, the unit will reverse itself. I have seen those adjusted a little too close, where even the slight bounce of the cable would trip it. Torsion springs are built, designed , installed, to a minimum of 10,000 cycle life expectancy. You do the math of how often you open etc as to how long they will last. Longer life springs are available, same labor but a bit more initial cost for the spring. On those types openers, you want the door a little "heavy", not a lot, maybe 20 lbs, so the cables always have tension. Good idea to once a year uncouple the opener, lube all the moving parts and cycle the door by hand to make sure the door is not binding anywhere.

 

[superduty1]

How often is it necessary to adjust the torsion springs?

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[JK#2]

just went through this with mine. the sensors were aligned just enough to work sometimes. i found out by closing the door and putting my foot on one of the sensors and it closed with no problem. a quick tightening of all the track mounts and it hasn't happened again.

 

[Hot Rod Grampa]

You adjust them only to maintain balance of the door. That is why you should check the door manually at least once a year. When the door feels heavy you should tweak the springs. But alway check for balance first, put the door into mid opening position, check that the roller is not in the middle of the curve and let go of the door. If it stays there you are good. This does not apply to a door with a shaft drive opener. Those doors should be 10 lbs heavy at a minimum to keep tension on the cables at all times.

 

[Fueler]

FWIW I have had a spider web fake out the sensor. Drove me nuts for a little while.

 

[SGKent]

My springs are about 45 years old. Doors opened daily usually multiple times. Guess I better budget in new springs after reading some of the above posts.

10,000 cycles is what everyone was telling me, and what the articles say. Frankly I did not know they had torsion springs for consumer doors 45 years ago. Everything we saw 45 years ago was stretch springs on mostly plywood doors. Some roll up but the springs were all stretch style with the cable in them to prevent them from knocking a hole in the roof when they went off, or putting a big dent in a car door.

4 cycles a day x 365 days a year x 8 years = 11, 680 cycles. Mine were at about 15,000 cycles when they were replaced on GP.

 

[Darryl2]

The 8500 wall panel will tell you what caused the reversal. Then you can zero in on the problem.