rattle_snake's random shop projects v0.1

[rattle_snake]

So at this point I had to put the big tires on....


A lot of work to get to this point. Long ways to go. Next steps are brake and fuel system plumbing. Then steering, and so on...




Bent the arm just enough to clear at full turn. Guessed correctly for once.

 

[OutlawDrifter]

Looks killer Justin!

 

[zmotorsports]

Looks killer Justin.

 

[rattle_snake]

Thanks guys.

Truck, car, motorcycle and boat all need maintenance. I would rather work on the 72.

Cobra line lock leaking. Bought a rebuild kit. Bled system. Now it leaks worse out of solenoid post. ****.


I did a custom install and put it down with ABS module


Working in the garage with jackstands like in the 'old' days.

 

[rattle_snake]

Making progress on Fuel system. Holley sniper 650hp efi. 340lph in tank pump, 6 an lines. 31g tank

Sent from my SM-G973U using The Garage Journal mobile app

 

[rattle_snake]

Trying the GJ app.
Looks like you cannot add pics to an existing post. poo.

 

[rattle_snake]

Finally did front yard landscape, 5 years later. Yard was plain, removed the one bush to make a turn around so wife could park trailer. Since then cut back fence and buried part of irrigation ditch so no need for turn around. When shop was build I had a small retention basin dug to keep garage apron from flooding. It worked well but crude and too small.

So I rented a mini JD and dug out the area. Reshaped and increased the basin by 2-3x. Gave it some more contour and made a hump to keep an ocotillo dry. buried some of the existing boulders to make it look more natural. Put 12 tons of screen rock down. Planted 8 shurbs.

No water system wanted or needed. Ripped out the old dilapidated system when I moved in. Now I plant only things that don't need water. I hate fixing sprinkler systems.

before


basin dug

after

 

[nsula_country]

Thanks guys.

Truck, car, motorcycle and boat all need maintenance. I would rather work on the 72.

Cobra line lock leaking. Bought a rebuild kit. Bled system. Now it leaks worse out of solenoid post. ****.


I did a custom install and put it down with ABS module


Working in the garage with jackstands like in the 'old' days.

This sounds like a 1st world problem...



CT

 

[nsula_country]

Making progress on Fuel system. Holley sniper 650hp efi. 340lph in tank pump, 6 an lines. 31g tank

Sent from my SM-G973U using The Garage Journal mobile app

Very nice. Curious to see how this works out.

Don't know if I want to build a BBC for the C20 or just "LS Swap" it? LS will be cheaper... But BBC with Fuel Injection sound badass!

CT

 

[Bigblue&Goldie]

Once finished, I'm curious on how you like the Sniper system also. I'm thinking of going with one if their 2bbl kits for my 1962 Impala that I'd like to keep original, but more driveable.

 

[rattle_snake]

This sounds like a 1st world problem...


CT

Yes, that thought did cross my mind

Very nice. Curious to see how this works out.

Don't know if I want to build a BBC for the C20 or just "LS Swap" it? LS will be cheaper... But BBC with Fuel Injection sound badass!

CT

depends on how you want to use it. LS with modern lock-up converter and overdrive would be better on highway.
I went BBF so it retains the old truck look and feel. Simple.

They make BBCs with 5"+ bore space so a 900+ ci would sound really cool, yes.

Once finished, I'm curious on how you like the Sniper system also. I'm thinking of going with one if their 2bbl kits for my 1962 Impala that I'd like to keep original, but more driveable.

Hopefully it will start and run well enough to break in the cam... Will find out at some point.

 

[rattle_snake]

I was able to resolve (I think) the line lock leak on the Cobra. The Hurst instructions called for locktite. I used some and assembled immediately. Even new O-rings are not enough to seal. The thread locker was washed out of the threads on dis-assembly. I guess 1000 psi will do that. I re-applied and let sit 24hrs to fully cure and effectively seal the threaded joints. I bled the system with coil off to inspect the plunger tower, it stayed dry.

NOS ships red locktite as thread sealer in there nitrous products. So I guess you can call it an anaerobic sealer.

Decided to skip the oil cooler inspection on the 14 F250. Went ahead and changed oil to not complicated dune trip coming this weekend. Not sure I am ready to move forward with repairing at this point.

Got the oil changed in the Raider as well. Some more items to go but getting some things off the list.

 

[rattle_snake]

Got some work done on the 72 chassis around the fuel tank. After getting the actual tank in place, I decided to go ahead and remove the 2nd rear factory cross member and build another out of 2x4 3/16 wall rec tube. I debated actual location and ended up putting it forward about 3" of the original, about where the lower frame bends start to prevent a decent attachment point. The tank hangs down enough to hit diff, and the location provides about 2" of horizontal clearance at bump. There is wiring on the left side so I made provisions with some 2" tubing.

Then I accepted that the rear most cross member was not in the ideal location and carefully cut it out so it could be moved forward about 4". This solved a few issues, reduces weight and will simplify tank mounting.
The rear most bed bolts were blocked and accidentally welded shut, so I re-drilled them and can use typical bed bolt.
I had drilled some mounting holes for the bumper/hitch, but a few now interfered with the wiring pass-thru, so moved them. This area will get boxed so captive nuts were welded in.

Moving the cross member closer to the rear hangers helps reduce flex, so I did minimal boxing between the two with 3/16 plate. Cut a vent so dirt and **** can't get trapped in it. I think the rear part of chassis is at least as strong and rigid as it was. Had to paint the frame as I went to make it feel like progress was being made, as opposed to just re-doing stuff.

I wasted a lot of time filling pretty much every hole in the rear end of the frame. Should make the wheel well look better. For some reason I feel compelled to fill holes from the items I have removed.
At this point I think the 40g tank could be made to fit but would need longer bump stops to prevent diff contact, ultimately reducing up travel. So the 31g fits nice and should give 250-300 mile range.

Next step is provisions for tank mounts and straps. Plan to mimic the blazer/burb mounting system with some flat bar welded to the rec tube, and some mounts for the tank strap studs. Moving the rear tube made this easier and will match the other end. The forward tube provides a nice place to put the fuel filter.

 

[zmotorsports]

Coming along nicely Justin. Good job on the rear crossmember and the spring mounts.

 

[lilscorpion]

Looks super clean Justin, great progress!

 

[rattle_snake]

Coming along nicely Justin. Good job on the rear crossmember and the spring mounts.

Looks super clean Justin, great progress Justin!

Thanks guys. Slowly coming along.

 

[rattle_snake]

Getting fuel tank mounted on the 72 Ford. Used some cardboard to space and locate tank and upper stops. Plan to use some 1/4" rubber for to isolate tank from frame. Mounted the upper pieces at an angle to center and prevent a pressure point on tank.

Used the press to bend a pair of tabs for the rear mount. Simple mount now that the tube was relocated.

Also used the press to make some angled brackets for the front. Bent both legs to get the center around the angle that the tank strap studs enter.

 

[OutlawDrifter]

Nice, clean solution.

 

[rattle_snake]

Made another trip to the dunes. Got 100 miles of riding in including a loop through the highest area with the biggest bowls and features.

Had to make a redneck repair on one of the bikes with a beer can.

 

[OutlawDrifter]

I'm half redneck on my dad's side...haha

Never know when you'll have to improvise!

 

[nsula_country]

Made another trip to the dunes. Got 100 miles of riding in including a loop through the highest area with the biggest bowls and features.

Had to make a redneck repair on one of the bikes with a beer can.

Innovative. Founder's is pretty good .

CT

 

[C91x]

Made another trip to the dunes. Got 100 miles of riding in including a loop through the highest area with the biggest bowls and features.

Had to make a redneck repair on one of the bikes with a beer can.

Think of all the weight saved on that new and improved power valve cover.

If you ever want to go riding up here, let me know. I ride a 300xc

 

[rattle_snake]

I'm half redneck on my dad's side...haha

Never know when you'll have to improvise!

So your a half-neck?

Innovative. Founder's is pretty good .

CT

I call it diet beer. but yes a good 'session' IPA.

Think of all the weight saved on that new and improved power valve cover.

If you ever want to go riding up here, let me know. I ride a 300xc

Had to lighten up the can first!
Will do, our Prescott trip got rained out last summer. Plan to try again this year.

 

[rattle_snake]

Semi-committed to rear shock frame mount scheme. Made a measurement/math error on horizontal part of the shock dimension and ended up ordering a 12" travel shock for a 30* installed angle. The bed cross rail is right in the way of the area where frame is bent to clear. Ended up putting the mount in front of the bed rail which ended up being the right distance anyhow so it all worked out. Not a lot of options to get 12" of axle travel and not cut the bed.

Since the bar needed to be up high I sliced it like the engine cross member which gives lost of weld area. Ground out the tabs to mount at a slight angle and positioned to clear the reservoir hoses. Plan to mount both reservoirs on the cross bar

 

[OutlawDrifter]

I dig it

 

[rattle_snake]

I dig it

Thanks!

Burned in the shock mount bar and was forced to miter and cap the ends, well because.

I guess I have to paint after each step so it feels like progress is made. Or something like that.

Tacked the lower shock mounts onto the axle such that they do not go below the axle tube. Angled them (and uppers) in so the shock end bearing are almost straight at ride height.
Pulled the assembly to make it easier to work on. Have to re-clock the spring perches, weld up the shock mounts, and get the trac bar brackets on.
Even on a full size rig space is tight between the diff, trac bar, shock, brake line and so on. Plan to cut some of the diff housing off to keep the bracket in the shown location. This will allow me to weld the inside of the inner bracket to the tube itself.

So at this point the smart people are wondering why I didn't' just link the rear. Before buying the leaves and making the hangers I considered but did not for the following reasons;
- The leaves will perform well enough for my application
- Link kits are over $1000 not including truss, springs/coilovers and so on.
- Don't want to hack up the bed for a good coil over mount geometry.
- Didn't want to go to the cost and effort to link and use regular coils, although air bags would be a decent option. Then I would need a air system and so on.

 

[PhantomEB]

I hear you on not wanting to go coilovers for cost reasons. I didn’t either but I am linked in the back with coils.

 

[rattle_snake]

Cool bronc. Quite the smile on your face there, nice work!

If I had more time and money I would make thing harder for myself

 

[PhantomEB]

If we all had more money.... I doubt life would be any simpler than it is right now for me.

That truck has been in my possession for 20 years, she’s finally become a pleasure to work on.

 

[rattle_snake]

Took the time to address a typical shortcoming on engine hoists. The handle attachment. Seems to slip at the wrong time and pinch the web of your hand while something heavy is dangling precariously.
So I welded a nut to hold it tight. I made a knob for the air over hydraulic ram release so no need for the jack handle going up or down.

 

[rattle_snake]

Got the diff hacked up and brackets installed.

Moved the perches for -1 pinion angle and welded up the shock brackets. Threw some paint on it and re-installed the axle. I positioned the brackets such that nothing hangs below the tube. Everything should fit...

Went forward with traction bar links. Welded on the bushing sleeves and test fit to see what to do with the frame end.

 

[rattle_snake]

Built a mobile base for my press. Re-purposed the base of axle stand now that they are completed. Used my new squares to build the new base out of 2" square .120 wall.

Welded a flange on the bottom of the press beams to secure to the base. Casters are from HF 44's. Tapped holes, bolted on.

Removed bottom cross brace to have unobstructed lower shelf. Used some 3/4 plywood and 1/2 rubber mat for shelf.

Can store the break and whatever else.


Still need to build some hangers and whatnot for the various press tooling. The added height the base provided was needed anyhow.

 

[rattle_snake]

Got some time to work on the 72 Ford. Decided on a plan for the traction bar forward mount. Went with the bar below the shackle, so just a main cross bar was needed. To clear driveshaft it needed to be up quite high, I again used the slice method to attach. Tube is some leftovers I found, 1-5/8 OD, 0.225 wall DOM.


Since chassis is light it sits up 4" higher than planned ride height. This impacts the geometry, so some compensations were needed to build at a different height. I set shackle angle to be vertical at ride. Started to tie the cross bar into the left radius arm mount, but put that on pause for now. The traction bar will only apply a vertical load, however it will want to lift the whole chassis at bar attachment point. Plan to add some type of reinforcement.


Fit, welded, painted and installed the links. Also cleaned the center section of the frame including the only 2 remaining factory cross members. Didn't fill any more holes, for now.


The lower link is 60" which is right about what driveshaft will be. Angle is similar, will keep pinion pointed at TC at all times. It seems to hang low, but driveshaft will be right there too.


Installed the rear shocks.


Put the reservoirs on the shock bodies for now.

 

[zmotorsports]

Coming along very nicely Justin.

 

[rattle_snake]

Coming along very nicely Justin.

Thanks.

Not sure I needed to, but I made some reinforcement plates for the rear shock mounts. The tube ties into the vertical part of the frame but not much.


Made a simple shape out of 3/16". The shock mount takes a lot of force for a short time before energy is transferred to spring.

 

[rattle_snake]

Not much time to work on the 72 ford.
I made simple reinforcements for the traction bar mount out of plate. Used the same radius edge design as the next forward plates, which fits well around the cab mount cross member. Same bracing on other side.


Hopefully that's it for frame mods. Trying to decide if rear bump stops need additional support... depending on fuel filter location I May make an 'X' brace over rear axle.

 

[rattle_snake]

Started on a barn door for Mrs rattle_snake. Been delinquent for many years now....


Material is all 'used' oak. The thinner planks are re-sawn so at least there is almost a flat side to work with. Used a joiner sled on table saw to rip them all down to consistent width.

Was going to build a torque box type core, but wouldn't work out so used one piece of 3/16 hard board for inner panel. Resawn pieces will glue to it.

Got the frame built and did some selective sanding to the boards. Then let management arrange to her liking.

 

[jjeffries]

Such beautiful work you produce and work conditions you maintain.
John

 

[stinkity stoink]

Always impressed at the attention to detail

 

[rattle_snake]

Such beautiful work you produce and work conditions you maintain.
John

Thanks, sometimes I think the latter inhibits the work getting done. But I like things clean and tools are easy to find when they are in their home.

Always impressed at the attention to detail

Thanks. Sometime the details are all the fun, other times they are the devil!