rattle_snake's random shop projects v0.1

[Bigblue&Goldie]

You're going full engineer on us with this sending unit!

I was just talking to my buddy last night and they are building a 1975 and are going with the Dakota Digital cluster. This is a full tube chassis truck that they are trying to keep it as "stock looking" as possible, but need quality gauges to monitor the motor ($$$$).

 

[rattle_snake]

You're going full engineer on us with this sending unit!

I was just talking to my buddy last night and they are building a 1975 and are going with the Dakota Digital cluster. This is a full tube chassis truck that they are trying to keep it as "stock looking" as possible, but need quality gauges to monitor the motor ($$$$).

Haha yes, that's the only way I roll I guess.

Compared to damaging the motor $800 isn't that much. Funds are a little tighter now, but luckily I'm most of the way through the purchasing for this project.

Mmmm.

 

[nsula_country]

What vendor is that cluster from? I like the period correct look.

I agree that the flat plate with gauges isn't the same look.

CT

 

[OutlawDrifter]

What vendor is that cluster from? I like the period correct look.

I agree that the flat plate with gauges isn't the same look.

CT

Dakota Digital...don't let the name sway you...they still have some cool "analog" looking stuff!





Justin, just remember, if I were spending YOUR money

 

[rattle_snake]

460 BBF camshafts handles for my beer fridge as seen over in free parking
https://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=452407

 

[PhantomEB]

That’s cool!

 

[OutlawDrifter]

Nice work...I also like the Stone IPA...other names gave me a chuckle.

 

[zmotorsports]

That's awesome Justin. Just wonder if the cams helped the fridge's performance.

 

[Bighead38]

Haha yes, that's the only way I roll I guess.

Compared to damaging the motor $800 isn't that much. Funds are a little tighter now, but luckily I'm most of the way through the purchasing for this project.

Mmmm.

Bumpside truck? I grew up in a bumpside f250 highboy. I will own one someday.

Do you have a build thread or a specific folder of just the truck? I would love to see it. What are the details on the truck? If it’s all in this thread I’ll read through it later just let me know if it’s here.

 

[rattle_snake]

That’s cool!

Thanks!

Nice work...I also like the Stone IPA...other names gave me a chuckle.

Those are my home-brews

That's awesome Justin. Just wonder if the cams helped the fridge's performance.

Yes but it was difficult to get the cam phasing in sync.

Bumpside truck? I grew up in a bumpside f250 highboy. I will own one someday.

Do you have a build thread or a specific folder of just the truck? I would love to see it. What are the details on the truck? If it’s all in this thread I’ll read through it later just let me know if it’s here.

Yes a bump. Details are in this thread but spread around.
build thread on pirate;
https://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/ford/2679042-72-f250-2wd-4wd-build.html

 

[Bighead38]

Thanks!

Those are my home-brews

Yes but it was difficult to get the cam phasing in sync.

Yes a bump. Details are in this thread but spread around.
build thread on pirate;
https://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/ford/2679042-72-f250-2wd-4wd-build.html

Thanks, gave me some new reading material.

 

[zmotorsports]

Thanks, gave me some new reading material.

^^Exactly.

 

[rattle_snake]

Working on steering pump and mount. My 76 van motor came with a Saginaw pump so I got a reseal kit for it.
Did some mods from this site: Modifying your Power Steering Pump - GM Truck Central
I drilled out the output fitting from 0.138 to 0.144. Max recommended is 5/32=0.156. My pressure regulator has 2 shims, so I removed them to increase working pressure of pump. From the article I guess pressure went up 30%.
Luckily I had a PS pump pulley puller from the last time I did the same mods on a Saginaw pump I installed in my 77 bronco. Installed all new seals including shaft seal and painted.

Not happy with the funky factory brackets, I made my own with design loosely stolen from left eye blind. I plan to add A/C so I wanted the pump lower and more to the outside.

I made a spacer on the lathe and got the belt alignment looking good in the various planes. Also made a slotted tensioner bracket with a slight jog in it.

Was able to adapt the original P/S hose from the 2wd setup for the time being. This much bend in the hose is not good, but it works for now. Cut off the pump end and swapped in an inverted flare to work with the Saginaw pump. Put a ****** in the return line. Will add a cooler loop at some point.

 

[zmotorsports]

Nice job on the brackets Justin.

I've built a lot of brackets over the past 30 years of engine swaps and it's not easy getting everything lined up properly to avoid noises. Looks like you did a very nice job.

 

[rattle_snake]

Thanks Mike. Had to tweak a few things and use a shim to get it right with belt tensioned.

 

[rattle_snake]

Puttering away on the old Ford. Try to focus on what needs to be done before cab goes back on.

Re-bent the late model pan dipstick to work with my custom engine mounts and the L&L headers. Cut the factory bracket off and moved it to another location with future A/C pump in mind


Picked up a JB fab twin stick shifter for the 205. It and the shift rails needed some mods to fit properly but other than a missing knob all went well.

 

[rattle_snake]

Put the core support on to check fitment of the steering box and radiator. I would appear that they could fit, just barely, but just further pointed out that I'm trying to force in the wrong steering box. The rear facing pitman arm makes the stack up of radiator/box/track bar/axle just not viable with axle moved forward. The tie rod cannot go over the knuckle as it would hit the drag link directly on top of it near bump.
So I need a box that is geared the opposite direction so the pitman arm can go forward. Then there will be plenty of room for everything, and I can do whatever steering linkage I want. Adapt and overcome.

 

[86turbodsl]

Nice job on the brackets. That is not trivial. And looks way better than mid-70s Ford bracketry..

 

[OutlawDrifter]

Put the core support on to check fitment of the steering box and radiator. I would appear that they could fit, just barely, but just further pointed out that I'm trying to force in the wrong steering box. The rear facing pitman arm makes the stack up of radiator/box/track bar/axle just not viable with axle moved forward. The tie rod cannot go over the knuckle as it would hit the drag link directly on top of it near bump.
So I need a box that is geared the opposite direction so the pitman arm can go forward. Then there will be plenty of room for everything, and I can do whatever steering linkage I want. Adapt and overcome.

Sounds like hotrodding...change a part to change a part!


Seeing this view really puts the ride height in perspective with your wall!

 

[rattle_snake]

Nice job on the brackets. That is not trivial. And looks way better than mid-70s Ford bracketry..

Thanks. I won't admit how many hours it took to get them dialed in. Or how many belts it took to find ideal lengths.

Sounds like hotrodding...change a part to change a part!
Seeing this view really puts the ride height in perspective with your wall!

Yes, the builder kept only the 2 frame rails and 2 cross members. Everything else is custom. What could go wrong?

 

[rattle_snake]

Well the direct image link converter isn't working anymore. So back to shared album links...

Completed disassembly of firewall and cleaned surfaces for foil faced gooey butyl rubber. I used a cheap dynamat clone called Kilmat in 0.080". I cut an extra relief around all holes and fasteners to keep the goo from squishing out into threads and what not.
Job took awhile and is non-trivial for those with OCD. A few sheets have pattern in wrong direction. I bought a roller and it was worth the $ for a better install. Would be a real pain to have to remove this ****.


Did the back cab wall is it is a large flat surface with minimal reinforcement. Plan to do the doors at a later time.

 

[rattle_snake]

So I figured it was time to plop the cab on and see what didn't clear.


As expected the transfer case hits the brace on the bottom of the cab. So I chopped out a hole to clear the vent on the rear output bearing retainer.

Used the brake to make patch piece out of 1/8" and boxed in the hole.

 

[rattle_snake]

Not sure how this damn truck got so tall. Well, Ok maybe I do, and mathematical projections are right on track. It's still about 2" above expected ride height without the weight from the rest of the body.
My wife said she hates it. My daughter said it's scary. So perfect to me, other than I need a vertical aid to get into the cab.


Should be about 7' when its done, so same as my 2014 on 37s. Door handle is right at forehead level, which seems right for a gearhead redneck like myself.


The T-case pocket worked out and the exhaust just clears the floor on the right side where I re-worked it. Can get a pinkie between the trans and firewall pinch weld. Tight but it fits with no body lift. Motor is up 1/2 from the 390 location.

 

[Boosted1]

That's a big milestone! Cab looks good back in place.

 

[Bigblue&Goldie]

Those wheels were the perfect choice for that truck; looks awesome!

 

[Monza Harry]

Picked up a JB fab twin stick shifter for the 205. It and the shift rails needed some mods to fit properly but other than a missing knob all went well.

Sorry R-Snake but I keep thinking about that twin stick and wonder why you didn't get the triple stick and the Off-Road Designs Doubler and 3:1 gears for your T-Case for this? A truck this heavy and powered as it is will likely break less with more gearing it will allow you to apply finesse instead of 460 Big Block force, it will be way more controllable traction permitting. I know this isn't an inexpensive deal but you have much to protect there. Pretty cool for a Ford just the same![Chevrolet Monza] Harry [I wanted a Poke emoji but I didn't find one in our library]

 

[OutlawDrifter]

SUNDAY, SUNDAY, SUNDAY!!!!!!

It's all coming together, really paints a better proportional picture with the cab on. And if it's gearhead redneck approved, you know I'm on board!

 

[zmotorsports]

Truck looks great Justin, and Bb&G is right on track, perfect choice on wheels.

 

[Monza Harry]

Truck looks great Justin, and Bb&G is right on track, perfect choice on wheels.

Is there anything from that era that looks bad with slots? That and the original ET Mags [Torque Thrust's] are all period correct magic. Especially the slots with a floater and Eight Lugs. Harry

 

[rattle_snake]

That's a big milestone! Cab looks good back in place.

Those wheels were the perfect choice for that truck; looks awesome!

SUNDAY, SUNDAY, SUNDAY!!!!!!

It's all coming together, really paints a better proportional picture with the cab on. And if it's gearhead redneck approved, you know I'm on board!

Is there anything from that era that looks bad with slots? That and the original ET Mags [Torque Thrust's] are all period correct magic. Especially the slots with a floater and Eight Lugs. Harry

Thanks guys. I took a minute to just step back and take it in, with a cold beverage. Long way to go but it seems at least possible at this point.

 

[rattle_snake]

Sorry R-Snake but I keep thinking about that twin stick and wonder why you didn't get the triple stick and the Off-Road Designs Doubler and 3:1 gears for your T-Case for this? A truck this heavy and powered as it is will likely break less with more gearing it will allow you to apply finesse instead of 460 Big Block force, it will be way more controllable traction permitting. I know tis isn't an inexpensive deal but you have much to protect there. Pretty cool for a Ford just the same![Chevrolet Monza] Harry [I wanted a Poke emoji but I didn't find one in our library]

Crawling isn't really the main purpose of this rig. I agree more gearing is good on the trial but I want to keep things simple and cheap for now, and can upgrade things over time.
As you know the 'Yota guys like lots of leavers and gear boxes all stacked together to get super deep gear to offset the lack of torque the small 4 bangers make.

Not sure what this thing will weigh. Guessing under 6000. trying to keep weight down, I even removed the original under dash speaker from 1972!

 

[Monza Harry]

Not sure what this thing will weigh. Guessing under 6000. trying to keep weight down, I even removed the original under dash speaker from 1972!

Yep that 8oz's will really help out! LOL! Henry Ford II has been quoted as saying the easiest way to lose 100#'s from a vehicle is to lose 1oz in 1600 places! it all adds up or it doesn't as the case may be! LOL! You have a NP205 there correct? Those twin sticks will come in real handy trying to back a trailer up a bump in the wet grass, pop it in 2Lo Front and no tearing up the lawn for you, just point and shoot!
Harry

 

[rattle_snake]

Yes it is a 205. I had a twin stick Dana 20 in my 77 bronco and really liked being able to shift axles separately and have front axle only.

 

[rattle_snake]

I'm looking for a shop vac that doesn't ****. I have a few. I mainly use a Ridig model but the hose is cheap, pops off both ends. The plastic attachments are fragile and broken/repaired many times. The wheels **** and it only rolls perpendicular to desired direction. Cord is too short.

I'm looking for a step up in quality. Noise level isn't a big deal. medium size 10g or so. I use the floor attachment often on bare concrete. I see Dewalt and Vacmaster make models with big back wheels (I like big tires if you have not noticed) are they any better than the typical 4 swivel casters?

Please recommend a model if you have one you like, thanks.

 

[ptt49er]

I picked up one of these guys during our remodel. So far, I'm impressed. Plenty of cord and the large hose is crucial!
Edit - link would be helpful...
https://www.lowes.com/pd/Shop-Vac-16-Gallon-6-5-HP-Portable-Wet-Dry-Shop-Vacuum/1000368803

Sent from my SM-G975U using Tapatalk

 

[Jeff Ivers]

I'm looking for a shop vac that doesn't ****. I have a few. I mainly use a Ridig model but the hose is cheap, pops off both ends. The plastic attachments are fragile and broken/repaired many times. The wheels **** and it only rolls perpendicular to desired direction. Cord is too short.

I'm looking for a step up in quality. Noise level isn't a big deal. medium size 10g or so. I use the floor attachment often on bare concrete. I see Dewalt and Vacmaster make models with big back wheels (I like big tires if you have not noticed) are they any better than the typical 4 swivel casters?

Please recommend a model if you have one you like, thanks.

I am sorry, but I simply must ask this - WHY? I have always preferred shop vacuums that have good suction!

 

[Monza Harry]

You Both did that on purpose didn't you?
I laughed and thought of a couple of inappropriate things I won't/can't post. Harry

 

[rattle_snake]

Got the trans hump cover hacked up and put in. In factory form it didn't fit for **** and had a good 1/2" gap in places. I reshaped the cover to fit the hole with press and a BFH. Cutting a hole for the shifter was a PITA as expected and took way longer than I will admit. Started with a small hole in the wrong spot and went from there. Had to weld back in a strip cut out from the other side. Hammered out some of the contours to get the boot to fit tight. Wrapped it in Kilmat and finished the edges in foil tape as this is some sticky ****.


Used some closed cell foam tape to make a gasket. Once installed it fit pretty tight. Should be able to be removed/installed many times, as anything I own can and will break down at some point.

 

[rattle_snake]

I've realized now that every system and feature on this truck is worn out or jacked up. Next on the list was the steering column. I figured the upper bearing was shot as the wheel was loose and wobbled around. Not going to work as a handle to climb in with. The wiring was hacked, and so on. Turns out the head wasn't bolted to the shaft at all, guess it was too difficult for the last guy to re-assemble. Bearing were OK, so I got it put back together and gave it some TLC.


Cleaned up the welds and painted. Shifter lockout works like it should. I had previously added back the NSS. Wheel itself needs some help.

 

[rattle_snake]

I decided to put some of the interior back in so I could make forward progress, before redoing the steering and track bar. Got a new firewall pad from repops. it fits OK and was cheap. Cut the existing flooring I installed a few year back to fit.


Of course most important aspect is the audio system, so got that back in after some repairs. TC shifter boot installed. The wiring is mostly original, but someone hacked up the fuse block so that is one of the next big projects.