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How many amps does a typical 2-Post Lift use when in operation?

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ImmDanny

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I know most lifts require a 30 amp breaker, but is it required for that Lift to be the ONLY thing on that breaker? Reason I ask is I'm planning on installing a lift, and where I'd be installing it is within extremely close proximity to the laundry room. I'm wondering if I can tap into that circuit the wire is on (30 Amp breaker) and also have it be the power for my lift? So basically have both the dryer and the lift on the same 30 amp circuit.

What I'd like to know is if this is a bad idea? I'm imagining as long as I don't have the dryer running at the same time as operating the lift, it should be fine correct? I'm not electrical engineering so maybe I'm talking out of my *** right now.

I do have another solution, but would require more work and leave me without my stove lol. My kitchen is a bit older, and has a dedicated circuit for the stove top, and another dedicated circuit for the oven (30 Amps and 50 Amps respectively). I'd disconnect the stove over the oven just so that i still have that 50 amp circuit available for whenever i redo my kitchen and get a stove/oven unit. So obviously I'd prefer if i just taped into my dryer circuit. I also can't add another 30 Amp breaker as my breaker box is full.

I'd like to know your thoughts, as I'm almost complete building my carport/shade structure, so getting the wiring ready is the next step before purchasing a lift.
 
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19Vert64

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Probably get more action on your question in the electrical section


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ImmDanny

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sberry

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A dryer is wired slightly different than a lift. I got a bud has one 120v been plugged in with a cord for 25 yrs. If it's not running the same as the dryer it doesnt know, would probably trip a breaker if it did. Ideally this type of equipment is wired to its own breaker. There can be some ways around a full panel but it's a little work.
Mine has a welder outlet on the same wire, both allow the same overcurrent protection.
 
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MattRMagnum

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If you're buying new, check your warranty. My explicitly states that it has to be on a dedicated circuit, or the warranty is void. Considering the installers are who you'd most likely make the claim through, if the electrical doesn't mean their snuff, your lift won't get any warranty work.

Hopefully it never needs it, but just worth considering.
 
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ImmDanny

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sberry said:
A dryer is wired slightly different than a lift. I got a bud has one 120v been plugged in with a cord for 25 yrs. If it's not running the same as the dryer it doesnt know, would probably trip a breaker if it did. Ideally this type of equipment is wired to its own breaker. There can be some ways around a full panel but it's a little work.
Mine has a welder outlet on the same wire, both allow the same overcurrent protection.
Click to expand...

That was my thought too, if I don't run them at the same time.. should be fine right? And even if I did, hopefully the breaker would do it's job and trip. I get that it might not be the cleanest way of doing, and it should have it's own dedicated circuit, but I'm going to usability at the moment.
 
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ImmDanny

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MattRMagnum said:
If you're buying new, check your warranty. My explicitly states that it has to be on a dedicated circuit, or the warranty is void. Considering the installers are who you'd most likely make the claim through, if the electrical doesn't mean their snuff, your lift won't get any warranty work.

Hopefully it never needs it, but just worth considering.
Click to expand...

Well the lift will be installed outside, so the warranty is already out the window anyways.
 
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finn

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Do it right and install a dedicated circuit. The cost is insignificant over the life of the lift.

I am continually amazed that shortcuts and working around codes and established design practices comes up so often on this site.

Look at the Collins thread in free parking. People defending sloppy aircraft kluge repairs and failure to follow established procedures resulted in a warbird crash and eight deaths.

The manufacturer calls for a dedicated circuit for a reason.
 
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Bert_

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finn said:
Do it right and install a dedicated circuit. The cost is insignificant over the life of the lift.
The manufacturer calls for a dedicated circuit for a reason.
Click to expand...

And that reason is to cover their ***.

Reality is as long as the wire is big enough, the lift won't care. The dryer will be wired with #10. Good chance the lift will run on #12 legally. This isn't the sort of thing I would wire for a customer but the reality is that it will work fine. Worst possible case the dryer and the lift get turned on together and the breaker trips. Op is aware of that possibility, it's nothing more than a nuisance no safety hazard.
 
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sberry

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inphx said:
Yes and tap the two 110v legs for standard oulets at the lift AND do a 220v plug compatible with the Tesla you will have next year...
Click to expand...

Where did you come up with that.? Mine has a 10 wire. The lift and the welder allow 14, the lift is listed for 30A breaker. I have outlets on it, separate circuits. 120V. Gfci.
 
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sberry

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My shared cicuit is slightly different. Both are wired the same, the added outlet is on the lift, not remote to another appliance. Not saying the lift and dryer couldn't be used separately, more than likely its rated 30 ocpd but a guy should look at the manual. .
 
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finn

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Bert_ said:
And that reason is to cover their ***.

Reality is as long as the wire is big enough, the lift won't care. The dryer will be wired with #10. Good chance the lift will run on #12 legally. This isn't the sort of thing I would wire for a customer but the reality is that it will work fine. Worst possible case the dryer and the lift get turned on together and the breaker trips. Op is aware of that possibility, it's nothing more than a nuisance no safety hazard.
Click to expand...

You also have to consider the next owner, and the one beyond that. If he kluge the wiring, chances are he’ll have to fix it anyway, when the house is sold and it fails the buyer’s inspection.
 
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Bert_

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finn said:
You also have to consider the next owner, and the one beyond that. If he kluge the wiring, chances are he’ll have to fix it anyway, when the house is sold and it fails the buyer’s inspection.
Click to expand...

I'm guessing most would take the lift down and keep it when/if they sell. On a residential property most buyers wouldn't even want the thing.

Disconnect the wire now the issue is gone.
 
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ImmDanny

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Bert_ said:
I'm guessing most would take the lift down and keep it when/if they sell. On a residential property most buyers wouldn't even want the thing.

Disconnect the wire now the issue is gone.
Click to expand...



Yes whenever I do move I’ll be taking the lift and it will be easy enough to remove the wiring as if it never happened. It’s a very short run. The electrical is the least I’d have to worry about anyways, I may or may not have built a not entirely legal shade structure next to my house.


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dkroth

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There are a lot of factors that can make up "typical".

Here's a mid-rise lifting a 3400 lb car near the bottom of the stroke where it's moving fastest.

Power company is running things a little hot tonight at 121.4 VAC.

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kmk7110

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my issue would be noise from either appliance or if one does have an issue causing problems for the other.
 
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