The VISES of Garage Journal

[sqyards]

UPDATE: lol ok so I started sanding anvil and slide (got more to do) but looking better atleast I think. thats for the advice on sanding it..

 

[sqyards]

Me too with the JB Weld for filling minor saw marks on the tops of jaw towers.

Here’s a trick I learned from somebody on GJ years ago. You can avoid the overly smooth look of epoxy by pressing in some sandpaper of the appropriate grade (you’ll have to experiment with this yourself...different grits and application after different curing times will give different results.
That gives you texture mimicking cast iron.

When you tool the epoxy, you can lay a piece of Saran Wrap on to minimize tool marks.

Here are 2 shots of my last project taken mid way. I experimented with a skim coat of JB Weld with no texturing.

.

thanks for the tip still fixing my 1st vise project

 

[DeeDubz]

replacement vice from the one I broke a month ago. Its a little weathered but will do the trick.

 

[Dan8906]

You’ve got to clamp the vise body down to something immovable. Get the biggest crescent wrench you can find (I’d be happy to loan you my 24 incher) pull some tension on it and have somebody whack the end with a BFH for the “ impact”. That just might work. (I assume you’ve already soaked it with penetrating oil)

I have had success with a much larger drag link socket and an electric impact wrench. Using that tool it’s not so important to immobilize the vise body.

Yeah I bent my tool I made. I’m going to let it soak over night and see if can’t borrow a bigger crescent wrench or something.

 

[Outlawmws]

replacement vice from the one I broke a month ago. Its a little weathered but will do the trick.

That almost looks like it has a verdigris patina!

 

[DFB]

Where’s my Reed guys? I’m not crazy that this comes out like a regular bolt? Lol thing is in there good.

Boy maybe I lucked out on my Reed 403 as it was hex head and not slotted.

But I did end up buying an extra large socket as my 3/4" drive set didn't have that exact size was
1-9/16". Did have 1-5/8 but was too loose a fit and I didn't want to damage the corners.

Then again maybe it actually cost me in the long run because I first got a 6 point but was an impact and I' ll be danged with thicker sidewalls it didn't fit in the recess so ended buying twice and got a 12 point chromie instead to do the deed

See that same bolt here...https://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showpost.php?p=6549446&postcount=28


I dimensioned out it for another GJ member whose vise was missing that part

Good luck with that one

On old Harleys we made a draglink type socket by welding in a piece of flat stock of the right thickness to a socket that been slotted a little

 

[RTM]

Where’s my Reed guys? I’m not crazy that this comes out like a regular bolt? Lol thing is in there good.

I have a 1/2” one but that wasn’t working. I made something that for tighter out of some bar stock with a crescent wrench also not budging

I have had success with a much larger drag link socket and an electric impact wrench. Using that tool it’s not so important to immobilize the vise body.

I have a gigantic Williams drag link that I used with my electric impact. I had to bolt it in a vise, a 16” breaker bar wouldn’t do it. If you can’t get one quick from Amazon, I can mail mine across the Bay. Mine is 1-1/4” wide by 3/32 thick, about $15 to my door.

 

[Dan8906]

Boy maybe I lucked out on my Reed 403 as it was hex head and not slotted.

But I did end up buying an extra large socket as my 3/4" drive set didn't have that exact size was
1-9/16". Did have 1-5/8 but was too loose a fit and I didn't want to damage the corners.

Then again maybe it actually cost me in the long run because I first got a 6 point but was an impact and I' ll be danged with thicker sidewalls it didn't fit in the recess so ended buying twice and got a 12 point chromie instead to do the deed

See that same bolt here...https://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showpost.php?p=6549446&postcount=28


I dimensioned out it for another GJ member whose vise was missing that part

Good luck with that one

On old Harleys we made a draglink type socket by welding in a piece of flat stock of the right thickness to a socket that been slotted a little

I like that idea of making a drag link!

 

[Josh C]

Dan8906 - Those swivel base bolts can be tough if rusted in and no proper size socket to fit it. I am not in possession of the correct one myself ever I don’t believe, and have taken at least 10 of those out. I have a scrap metal supply that has always yielded a solution so far which is a chunk of flat stock or plate that fits the slot well enough. One thing to keep in mind when removing a stuck fastener is that as mentioned by Shiftless shock is frequently instrumental in getting some movement. A tip that was passed on to me when I was just beginning to learn about the turning of wrenches was from my father who never had a torch setup at his disposal. He taught me that when you encounter a stubborn and stuck fastener to attempt to tighten it. Sounds contrary to what is trying to be accomplished but when last turned that’s the direction it was being turned. ��. Sometimes you won’t even tell if it moves but if you give the wrench a whack with a hefty hammer one time frequently when you flip everything around to head the other direction (remember to shoot a little penetrating oil at its base before attempting to turn it) that with little bit of a tap on the 24” adjustable it will be backing out with little fuss. Good luck, and there’s many ways to accomplish this task so if things start bending again pull back and look for the drag link socket or stronger metal for the “Key”. Josh

 

[Dan8906]

I have a gigantic Williams drag link that I used with my electric impact. I had to bolt it in a vise, a 16” breaker bar wouldn’t do it. If you can’t get one quick from Amazon, I can mail mine across the Bay. Mine is 1-1/4” wide by 3/32 thick, about $15 to my door.

I just ordered the same size right before I saw this. Maybe you were the comment on Amazon about using it for a vise! It’s 4 days out tho. I’m in no rush.

 

[pelletman]

Where’s my Reed guys? I’m not crazy that this comes out like a regular bolt? Lol thing is in there good.

a drag link socket that fits and an impact wrench, I use cordless but I am sure the handheld hammer type would work if you put the vise in a vise

 

[RTM]

I just ordered the same size right before I saw this. Maybe you were the comment on Amazon about using it for a vise! It’s 4 days out tho. I’m in no rush.

Yup, think I gave the dimensions too, just for future vise connoisseurs.

 

[TonyCH]

My new Parkinson Samsonia Perfect 37 Model J all steel vise.

 

[RBarnes]

Found this looking for vises. A shop built into a container . Insulated walls, full electircal, Pretty interesting as it even has AC, might give some of you some planning ideas during the quarantine. It is in listed as a complete shop with contents being for sale in Brookville, Florida ($19750), but they are willing to ship. You could get a lot of vises in one of these...

 

[RBarnes]

A few more photos...lots of tools I did not copy pictures of. Looks like it even has a microwave and a mini fridge.

It is on Craigslist
https://houston.craigslist.org/hvo/d/brooksville-container-shop-with-tools-ac/7093977936.html

 

[DeeDubz]

That almost looks like it has a verdigris patina!

It was painted a blueish color, I just tried to strip as much of it off as i could. I was gonna paint it but got toooo lazy

 

[WAITS]

Here’s the vise that started it all with me, I didn’t know retiring these were a thing until I got here!

Just picked these up yesterday for a steal



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[CrotalusAtrox]

replacement vice from the one I broke a month ago. Its a little weathered but will do the trick.

If you break this one.... you have done something. ATHOLS are one of my favorites.

 

[dutchgray]

My new Parkinson Samsonia Perfect 37 Model J all steel vise.

Looks like a very nice example just in need of a good cleaning and some rust removal.

 

[Mslund1]

Found this looking for vises. A shop built into a container . Insulated walls, full electircal, Pretty interesting as it even has AC, might give some of you some planning ideas during the quarantine. It is in listed as a complete shop with contents being for sale in Brookville, Florida ($19750), but they are willing to ship. You could get a lot of vises in one of these...

I too ran across that post while down in AL last month, also looking for vises.

I even went as far to reach out to the person and ask if they would sell the big ridgid separately.

...No response haha


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[TonyCH]

Looks like a very nice example just in need of a good cleaning and some rust removal.

Thanks. Yes, it seems to be in very nice condition. Jaws are good, very little hammer marks on the vise itself but the handle has some, quick action works.

Needs indeed a good clean and a rust removal bath. Then I am thinking oil or satin black maybe.

 

[Dan8906]

I won! I got the bolt out. I took my tool I made and mushroomed it out so that I needed to tap it into the slot for a tight press fit. Then used a 10” pipe wrench with my go to BFH. First try. I’m sure letting it soak over night helped.

 

[Smitty]

This is a Leavens Jersey vise no. 45 it has 2” jaws, opens 2” and weighs in at 3 1/2 lbs. What I find really interesting is that this vise has been nickel plated. There are still large portions visible on the slide, handle and cylinder. There are no markings on the slide but there are stamps on the anvil. The front stamp says Leavens Co Vineland NJ

Stanley Jersey did offer a nickel plated vise no. 663N so this could be its predecessor. The large stamp on the anvil appears to be a 62 it’s hard to read.


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[Shiftless]

Dan:
Congrats on freeing up that bolt. Soaking with penetrating oil is always a good move. Keep your eye out for some bigger wrenches. Once in a while, extra leverage comes in REALLY handy.

Smitty:
That’s a sweet little addition to your nickel plated collection.
Will there be more Blue Magic in its future?

 

[Smitty]

Thanks shift, the Stanley collection is about four feet long at this point. I wish the vise had more nickel to work with but after 110 years it’s pretty sparse. I’m going to leave it in as found condition.


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[rusty65]

This is a Leavens Jersey vise no. 45 it has 2” jaws, opens 2” and weighs in at 3 1/2 lbs. What I find really interesting is that this vise has been nickel plated. There are still large portions visible on the slide, handle and cylinder. There are no markings on the slide but there are stamps on the anvil. The front stamp says Leavens Co Vineland NJ

Stanley Jersey did offer a nickel plated vise no. 663N so this could be its predecessor. The large stamp on the anvil appears to be a 62 it’s hard to read.


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From my understanding nickel plating was common on vises that may have been used in a dentist office from years gone by. Back in that time period things were more mechanical/ hands on and I would imagine that a third hand could have been used to help aid in repairing or maintaining the machinery/tools the dentist would use.


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[Smitty]

Hold the phone...I just figured it out. The vise is a Leavens Jersey no. 29 nickel plated jewelers vise.


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[chrisnazzy]

Here are a few pics of my big drag link socket that works flawlessly on slotted Reed and Athol shoulder bolts. The one pictured is the A15 which is the largest 1/2" drive @ 1 3/16 blade width but I ended up buying an A17 also which is a bit smaller @ 15/16". These can be found on Ebay often for around $10-15.
Oh and speeking of Athol vises, I finally got around to choosing a color and painting my 624N. It's Rustoleum Forged Hammered Antique Pewter. Not sure if the Forged designation is new or not but it's a color I hadn't seen before and I'm happy with the results.

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[DFB]

Here are a few pics of my big drag link socket that works flawlessly on slotted Reed and Athol shoulder bolts. The one pictured is the A15 which is the largest 1/2" drive @ 1 3/16 blade width but I ended up buying an A17 also which is a bit smaller @ 15/16". These can be found on Ebay often for around $10-15.


Oh and speeking of Athol vises, I finally got around to choosing a color and painting my 624N.It's Rustoleum Forged Hammered Antique Pewter. Not sure if the Forged designation is new or not but it's a color I hadn't seen before and I'm happy with the results.

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Them BIG UN'S for sure

The largest drag link I have is a stock Craftsman it's 3/4" x 1/8". The one I mentioned earlier made up for a slotted Harley inspection cover I believe it was is 1-1/2"x 1/4"

Chris thanks for sharing the Hammered Antique Pewter. Especially in brightly lit photos.

I have heard it mentioned in some of the Craftsman Toolbox threads here on the GJ as a possible restoration color to the early Gray and Red boxes. Seems to be brighter or maybe a bit shinier than the Rustoleum Hammered Gray I have.

I just did a small Craftsman vise in the gray for a quick cleanup

I also did see a Hammered Silver in my searches too. All are quite close though it seems .

 

[rusty65]

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[RyanE]

A few pages back I posted some photos of my son's vise. Here are some better shots. It's a Columbian No. 63 "Red Arrow". The dynamic jaw support was snapped off and there was quite a lot of slop in the bore of the dynamic. I pressed in an oilite bushing for the leadscrew and shimmed the split washer. Tightened it right up. This particular homeowner grade vise has no jaw inserts and any knurling (if it had any) is long worn off. It came from a basement workbench in an old 1940's house. Anyone have an idea on age?

 

[Shiftless]

My Red Arrow also has smooth jaws. Apparently that was the way they came from the factory.

 

[Dan8906]

A few pages back I posted some photos of my son's vise. Here are some better shots. It's a Columbian No. 63 "Red Arrow". The dynamic jaw support was snapped off and there was quite a lot of slop in the bore of the dynamic. I pressed in an oilite bushing for the leadscrew and shimmed the split washer. Tightened it right up. This particular homeowner grade vise has no jaw inserts and any knurling (if it had any) is long worn off. It came from a basement workbench in an old 1940's house. Anyone have an idea on age?

I’ve seen a restoration video where they mark off a grid and use a cut off wheel to cut it in to create some jaw teeth. Could be an option

 

[DFB]

I’ve seen a restoration video where they mark off a grid and use a cut off wheel to cut it in to create some jaw teeth. Could be an option

I have thought about doing something like that on a couple worn fixed jaw faces i have at least maybe make some file cuts

 

[Shiftless]

I’ve seen a restoration video where they mark off a grid and use a cut off wheel to cut it in to create some jaw teeth. Could be an option

I have thought about doing something like that on a couple worn fixed jaw faces i have at least maybe make some file cuts

Many times it’s handy to have a vise with smooth jaws so you don’t mar your work piece. Other times it’s nice to have sharp teeth jaws for heavy duty work where you’re not concerned with marks.

Here’s a novel idea...have more than one vise to use for different purposes!


.

 

[RyanE]

I’ve seen a restoration video where they mark off a grid and use a cut off wheel to cut it in to create some jaw teeth. Could be an option

I have thought about doing something like that on a couple worn fixed jaw faces i have at least maybe make some file cuts

I will have to give this a try on some scrap metal and see how proficient I am with the pattern. It will bother me if they aren't all parallel.....

I think I will leave the Red Arrow as is for now. My 3yo doesn't need any extra holding power yet

Shiftless - any idea on age of the Red Arrow line of vises?

 

[exmaxima1]

It's Rustoleum Forged Hammered Antique Pewter. Not sure if the Forged designation is new or not but it's a color I hadn't seen before and I'm happy with the results.

I really like that all-business look.

 

[DFB]

Many times it’s handy to have a vise with smooth jaws so you don’t mar your work piece. Other times it’s nice to have sharp teeth jaws for heavy duty work where you’re not concerned with marks.

Here’s a novel idea...have more than one vise to use for different purposes!


.

 

[RBarnes]

My Red Arrow also has smooth jaws. Apparently that was the way they came from the factory.

In the shop on several vises. I spend most of my time using magnetic rubber jaw inserts, factory copper jaw inserts, some sheet copper inserts I made, or even a special fitting pair of wood blocks I made - to keep from marring surfaces. I rarely ever use the sharp cross hatch jaws without something between them and the work. Would not alter original jaws until you are sure they will not do what you need them to.

 

[vintagebob]

Brass tools and equipment also used in submarines.