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Between 485 & 705 SQ/FT Mid-Century Moto Mecca Makeover

Workspaces between 485 and 705 squarefeet.

Mistafishe

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May 22, 2018
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Columbia, MO
Gregor, Super rad thread! I happily stayed up until 3am last night reading the whole damn thing, so thanks for that. :lol_hitti

Coffee, motorcycles, photography, and even pizza?? super cool and definitely subscribing so keep up the good work!

As a student working on a photography minor, I was wondering if you had any recommended photography books/videos/articles that go into more detail about the actual process of shooting and setting up shots? I understand that a lot of it is just practice and things that come with time but I'm always interested in learning new methods. Apologies if this has already been asked/answered.

Thanks,
Matt
 
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kjdhawkhill

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Flyover state #4
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So I pulled the engine, took it apart and bead blasted the head and barrel back to it's shiny former self. I drew the line at splitting the cases. I man has to have limits.

This used to be a really impressive little XR and was so clean and tidy. The years haven't been kind but I'm looking forward to getting it back into shape and making it cool again. No big upgrades, just lots of cosmetic maintenance.

Well, maybe a few little things. I mean, while it's apart...

Gregor

PS Oh, and the last video of the XR series is now up. It was a bit of a mess with a few different cameras being used and me not having a handle on color correcting just yet but it will work for the purpose or wrapping this up.


"A man has to have limits" said no Gregor I've ever read before... I have enjoyed the full collection on YouTube and have subscribed.
 
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sakurama

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Portland - the cool one.
Gregor, Super rad thread! I happily stayed up until 3am last night reading the whole damn thing, so thanks for that. :lol_hitti

Coffee, motorcycles, photography, and even pizza?? super cool and definitely subscribing so keep up the good work!

As a student working on a photography minor, I was wondering if you had any recommended photography books/videos/articles that go into more detail about the actual process of shooting and setting up shots? I understand that a lot of it is just practice and things that come with time but I'm always interested in learning new methods. Apologies if this has already been asked/answered.

Thanks,
Matt

Thanks Matt. Very cool when someone makes their first post in this thread.

I honestly have no idea if there are any good books about photography. It's one of those strange conundrums about a craft. Welders don't spend time in welding forums, pro racers don't frequent motorcycle forums and pro photographers don't frequent photo forums or read photo books.

Once you've acquired a certain level of skill in something you tend to not spend any time in endless discussions of the process. You spend the time doing it. Those who can do and those who can't teach - or pontificate about it in forums?

Photography is a very hands on sort of thing - books are a tricky medium to try to teach it with and even schools struggle with it. The best teacher is becoming an assistant to a photographer. My assistants always learn so much in a day because there are so many things that I do that I don't think about that are part of the process.

That said I'm actually working on doing a video right now on how I shoot a bike and I'm hoping to break it down and give some insight into the process that is worth learning.

If you can find someone local to you that you can work with (now is not the right time with most shoots all but canceled) you will learn a lot. It's very much of the way a skilled trade was learned in an apprenticeship. That said YouTube has a lot of good videos but again - not really any top tier talent doing how tos.

"A man has to have limits" said no Gregor I've ever read before... I have enjoyed the full collection on YouTube and have subscribed.

It's a problem. It tends to get things done but also spread me thin.

The buffer is finished. I'll try to get some shots of that today. Next is getting the XR exhaust done. Lots of video editing and Jwoo is asking that I tackle the kids room. Nadia and Lucas have shared bunk bends for the last 6 or so years but Nadia has decided she wants her own room now. So home projects are on the horizon as well.

Gregor
 
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sakurama

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I've been using Rustoleum enamels for a while when restoring machines. I like the heavy thick look of the brushed on paint as it's reminiscent of the finishes of old machine tools. It also hides a lot of sins.

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And it has the benefit of needing only one coat to cover and you don't need a respirator when brushing on paint. Maybe I should have one but it's pretty low odor. The colored spray cans were for an idea that I thought would be a fun and easy way to add a little to the project but turned out to be a disaster.

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When I lived in NYC I worked with a lot of magazines, stylists and editors in fashion. While I wasn't exactly part of that world I spend time on it's fringes and my favorite designer was Paul Smith for his playful use of color but also for his knack of hiding details. Many of his shirts had his trademark striped pattern on the inside of cuffs or collars where you'd never see it until you rolled up your sleeves. I loved that hidden whimsey so I decided that while my stand was a traditional gray I'd paint the inside of the door with some stripes.

This proved out the adage that there's never enough time to do things right but always enough time to do them over. My first attempt was nearly perfect but for a couple of small tape bleeds. When I tried to fix them the tape pulled up paint because I hadn't let it dry enough. When I tried to fix that it got progressively worse until I finally gave up and sanded it all off after letting it dry for a day. I think I would have given up but Nadia saw it and thought it was fun and encouraged me to keep going. Thanks Nadia!

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The Rockwell belt/disc sander is an awkward machine in that it needs access on two sides. It's light enough that I tend to just rotate it when I need to but I've found a happy spot by leaving it at a bit less than 45 degrees. The buffer seems to fit that way as well and it helps to crunch the space plus the angle allows the door to the bead blasting cabinet to open.

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The adjustable feet work perfectly. Just enough of a point to resist sliding but enough bluntness to not rip up the tile. And they level out quickly. Not that I need the buffer level but it keeps it from rocking. Also, the weight of the combined set up is about 220lbs and it doesn't move when you put pressure on the wheels or walk from vibration. Tools that aren't bolted down and walk on their own drive me crazy. Not a worry here.

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The motor is perfectly smooth but wheels aren't perfectly balanced so while the stand resists vibration completely the door does not. It vibrates and buzzes and I don't know that I left room for a solution but it might be enough to put some rubber over the magnet to push the door out a tiny bit. You don't notice it if you're using it but when it's just running you hear it.

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Most of the buffers out there are 3/4hp and that's what I've used in the past in small shops. I was glad to have found a single phase that was 1-1/2hp but a little worried that I'd need to swap it to 240v if it tripped the breaker. Luckily I ran 20amp 120 throughout the shop and it runs just fine.

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While I haven't gotten any of my supplies yet I did have little compound and gave it a trial run. The true test of a buffer is when you lean into the wheel if you stall it. When I did the little Honda tracker side cover almost any pressure would stall the wheel - it was a 1/3hp grinder and just not up to the task. Happily I can not stall this wheel - with my full body weight leaning into the part I can slow the wheel down a bit but not stall it. That pressure works super fast and the spiral stitched wheels are pretty hard so the combination makes very fast work of aluminum.

I'm happy with how it turned out. I got rid of that damned diamond plate and the buffer has a stand that is better than anything I could have bought for it. Some day someone else will end up with this and they'll appreciate the work that went into it.

Now to edit that video...

Gregor
 
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zmotorsports

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Nice job Gregor.

The Baldor 1.5 HP buffer is the exact same one I had in my paint shop on my parent's farm but ended up selling it when the farm was sold because I told myself I would never paint nor polish anything in my home shop because of the mess it made. I'm still holding onto that statement but there are times I miss being able to walk over to the polisher and touch up a piece.

As for your belt/disc combination sander, I have the same one in the Wilton flavor and was just messing around with angling it a bit last night for a little easier access to the belt side. I'm still on the fence.:lol_hitti
 

Kiwi Canuck

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Dec 13, 2014
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156
Location
Langley BC
I have the same machine with the Baldor stand I believe.

Edit , just looked up what I have, Baldor 410B with GA14 Baldor Stand

My neighbour was moving and he wanted me to buy his buffing machine as he didn't want to move it, came with a quite a bit of product and different wheels.

It's never been used but was probably 5 years old when I got it, the electrical box at the back is still in brand new condition, no sign of it ever being wired up.

It will be a bit of an upgrade from my 1/3 HP cheapo machine that I currently use.

I was thinking of finding some after market fenders to install as a backstop to prevent making a mess of the walls behind the machine.

Here's the machine I got.

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IMG_2168_zps4p3eghet.jpg
 
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sakurama

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I have the same machine with the Baldor stand I believe. It will be a bit of an upgrade from my 1/3 HP cheapo machine that I currently use.

I was thinking of finding some after market fenders to install as a backstop to prevent making a mess of the walls behind the machine.

Yup, exact same machine. The upgrade is exponential to say the least. I’m torn about fenders - I know they would probably help but I know I’ve hated them on any buffer I’ve used because odd shaped parts tend to wrap around the wheels as you get in the odd spaces. Then again that’s just the sort of thing that will rip a part from your hand and fling it across the room.

Like most things I’ll play it by ear and see how this works out.

Congrats on such an amazing machine.

Gregor
 
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zmotorsports

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I have the same machine with the Baldor stand I believe.

Edit , just looked up what I have, Baldor 410B with GA14 Baldor Stand

My neighbour was moving and he wanted me to buy his buffing machine as he didn't want to move it, came with a quite a bit of product and different wheels.

It's never been used but was probably 5 years old when I got it, the electrical box at the back is still in brand new condition, no sign of it ever being wired up.

It will be a bit of an upgrade from my 1/3 HP cheapo machine that I currently use.

I was thinking of finding some after market fenders to install as a backstop to prevent making a mess of the walls behind the machine.

Here's the machine I got.

IMG_2167_zpsx1mitfdn.jpg


IMG_2168_zps4p3eghet.jpg

David, that is the same setup I had. It worked well for the 10 years or so that I had it. Kind of miss it somedays but not the mess.:lol_hitti
 
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sakurama

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A Uni-ball? :wtf: Shouldn't that be a Lamy or Faber-Castell technical pen?

You know I had been wanting to try out a white pencil and pen for adding highlights and Ben suggested a couple and I bought a couple of others - this was the one that seemed to do the best going over the markers and pencil.

So when I find a better one I'll try it out but so far it's my favorite.

Gregor
 

Cypress

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May 2, 2020
Messages
141
Location
Colorado
I'm brand new to Garage Journal as a 'member' but have been lurking for years. This thread gave me the final push to finally sign up. I just read through the entire thread within the past two days or so and was completely mesmerized and engaged with the attention to detail and precision that this thread delivers. Thank you Gregor for documenting your projects and life over the years so thoughtfully and beautifully.

Question: As a practicing architect, I obviously was sucked into this thread with the MCM restore. Love the genre. Do you have any upcoming tasks / projects on the horizon related to the house?

Paul
 
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sakurama

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I'm brand new to Garage Journal as a 'member' but have been lurking for years. This thread gave me the final push to finally sign up. I just read through the entire thread within the past two days or so and was completely mesmerized and engaged with the attention to detail and precision that this thread delivers. Thank you Gregor for documenting your projects and life over the years so thoughtfully and beautifully.

Question: As a practicing architect, I obviously was sucked into this thread with the MCM restore. Love the genre. Do you have any upcoming tasks / projects on the horizon related to the house?

Paul

Thanks. Yes and no.

We need a new roof and were planning on getting a loan to cover that but now we're in a wait and see mode. House projects on deck are to replace the stairs with something more akin to the original. I wanted to build a stair that had storage underneath (small surprise) but the original was a floating stair and I'm going to look at doing that possibly.

I have wanted to make a small booth in the kitchen where we could sit and the kids could do homework - now that they're at that stage. And a project that probably won't happen for a while is removing and replacing the deck with a tiered concrete/wood patio. The garage door needs to be done this summer and we want to redo the entrance and front door as well. So we have a lot of things lined up but with the way the economy is we're just going to hold tight and see.

Thanks for joining up and making your first post here - very cool!

Gregor
 

BoilermakerFan

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Apr 17, 2006
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Location
Indianapolis, Indiana
You know I had been wanting to try out a white pencil and pen for adding highlights and Ben suggested a couple and I bought a couple of others - this was the one that seemed to do the best going over the markers and pencil.

So when I find a better one I'll try it out but so far it's my favorite.

Gregor

Cool. There are a couple of white pigmented inks on the market, but I haven't tried any of them.

I discovered that the fountain pen is a very small part of the rabbit hole... the inks; the inks are the REAL rabbit hole!

I purchased a vintage Parker 51 set for my wife for Mother's Day. Then I realized she would need ink and paper. I spent as much on five inks and 5 notebooks as I did on the pen set! And all I bought was blue ink. But, I am looking forward to finally having a hobby my wife and I can enjoy together. She enjoys riding on the motorcycles with me, but the pens will be a hobby we can enjoy together year round.


And as always, the buffer stand is awesome. I have a buffer on a simple stand. I need to make a splatter guard for it soon.
 

Dr Klaun

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Mar 28, 2010
Messages
59
Location
Tumalo
Let’s talk about ways to get some rigid insulation on the roof when you do that.

This was going to be my comment as well. Your walls with the large expanses of glazing will never have much energy efficiency, but adding the thermal layer to the roof will make a well received change to your interior comfort level. Also, don't skimp on your roofing membrane!
 
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sakurama

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So the other day Gino called me. His restaurant is closed and of course he's worried and trying to make sense of what's going to happen. I generally take my calls in the shop and for once, with the buffer done, the bench was empty. I'm not good at just sitting still and while we chatted I fiddled with the vise (a Chas Parker No. 973) which has never had a functional rotation lock and has always bugged me. I was curious and assumed it was because one of the two locking bolts had broken...

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This happened over the course of our phone call.

What I learned is that the vise doesn't have two locking bolts like my Wilton - it has a single one and a drum brake type expanding set up. It was filthy and covered in grease. I figured I'd give a good clean and getting rid of the grease would fix the locking mechanism.

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It spent about 4 hours in the ultrasonic and I changed the cleaner twice. Now, with all the grease gone and the inside clean and dry the lock worked even worse.

Great, I just made an annoying vise worse and more useless.

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I chucked up the base in the 4 jaw and cleaned up the casting inside as all surfaces of the this vise are super rough and raw castings.

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I didn't go for a super smooth finish - I just wanted it to be even. Now the vise had absolutely zero lock no matter how tight I locked it. Wow, I'm still going backwards. I contemplated throwing it away and just mounting the great Wilton that I've owned forever but never use because it's not bolted to the table.

That's what I should have done.

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Instead I then sanded down the shoes so that they'd be smoother. Again, it made things worse.

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Finally I realized that the cam plate was bottoming so I removed some material from that and then smoothed the faces on the shoes and cam. It started to work again. I bolted it all together and it actually now worked pretty good.

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Gee, maybe this isn't a lost cause after all.

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I was considering just putting it back together but, it was clean and apart and it won't be that way again. So I put the body in the bead blasting cabinet for a quick clean up.

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Then I looked for unoffensive paint that I wouldn't have to prime and was close enough to empty that I could use it and throw away the can freeing up space. Turned out Hammerite dark gray was the winner.

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At that point I was going to just put it together but someone on IG sent me a photo of the same vise they'd restored and it looked nice. I couldn't clean up the vise screw unless I cut off the bent handle...

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I bored the hole out to half inch and cleaned up the screw. I didn't have any 1/2" rod except for stainless which wouldn't be strong enough. I found an old vise handle that was 5/8" and turned that down.

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Then the slop bothered me so I made a bronze washer to take up that space, some end caps for the handle and at that point I decided to grind down the tops of the vise jaws as they weren't level.

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I didn't take a "before" photo because I didn't mean to do this. I never liked this vise but it came with the table and because it was there I've used it. Trying to refinish this vise without a vise to hold things in - wow, that was really hard. You take vises for granted.

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This isn't really any kind of "restoration" but more of a fixing a broken vise thing and while you're in there you might as well put some paint on it so it doesn't rust. I didn't dress any of the casting imperfections or do anything other than put two coats of Hammerite on it. And it got two coats because that's when the can ran out.

I will say that the longer handle with no slop in it is really nice. The brake now locks the vise but not nearly as well as the Wilton. I think I may rotate the table 90 degrees and drill and tap the corner so that the Wilton is in this spot and this vise is to my left. If I ever need to clamp something long I'll have two (different which will annoy me) vises in line with each other.

So, that was an accidental mission creep due to a phone call. But that vise is now not annoying me and is functionally improved.

Gregor
 

Zippercat

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Nice! Of course, now it looks like y’all need to clean up that table too while it’s mostly empty.......
 
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sakurama

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Nice! Of course, now it looks like y’all need to clean up that table too while it’s mostly empty.......

Yes, exactly. It's been my plan for the last 12 years or since I bought it. I'm glad that I didn't do it back when I got it because I wasn't a very good welder then but then, neither was the person who built this table.

So, I will open this up for discussion because I haven't come up with a good solution.

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I am at a complete loss as to why someone thought this 816lb slab of steel needed to be welded to the base in as many places and as much as it was. For machinists it didn't seem like they were thinking. Aside from warping the steel it's weight alone would serve to hold the table in place. It would have made far more sense to simply use four bolts to hold the top to the frame and not weld it.

Which is what my plan is going to be once I free the top from the ****** base. It is welded nearly all the way around inside and out. I thought one day that I'd just buckle down and use a cut off wheel to cut through the welds and after 10 minutes realized it would take hours and hours.

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If I have to do it that way I will do it outside.

I thought maybe the plasma cutter but the way it's welded would leave a large amount on if I did manage to cut it. I considered using the cutting torch but it's the same thing and I'd probably damage the top.

I could cut the top free and leave the angle attached and try to have that ground off when it's blanchard ground but they'd probably charge me $$$$ to clean it up if they'd even accept it.

So, got any ideas?

Gregor
 

Pressingonward

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SW WA
Here's a crazy idea I have no experience with but I'll throw it out there - get a carbide tipped blade for a circular saw and run it along the edge of the table to cut the weld off. You could clamp a wood support block (aka a 4x4) on top of the table at the edge to better support the saw shoe and keep it square
 

Brian R

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Dec 1, 2009
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Chestertown, MD
I am at a complete loss as to why someone thought this 816lb slab of steel needed to be welded to the base in as many places and as much as it was

Practicing their welds (and not getting better)??
 

Bakafish

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Abomb-79 just had a video about truing his new Baldor flanges to improve the runout and help reduce vibration. No idea if this is just an issue with the newer versions, but it seemed like a pretty worthwhile enhancement.

 

ebarker9

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Oct 1, 2010
Messages
85
Gregor, any chance you have measurements for the locking bolt and wrench for that vise? I also have a 973, although mine locks really nicely, but it's missing the original wrench which I'd like to get. The wrench that seems to fit the best is 9/16" but most of the replacements I've seen are listed as 3/4".
 
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sakurama

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Abomb-79 just had a video about truing his new Baldor flanges to improve the runout and help reduce vibration. No idea if this is just an issue with the newer versions, but it seemed like a pretty worthwhile enhancement.


Hmm, I hadn't thought to check that but I'll just add to my list. I just sort of assumed that the buffs that I got were old and that was the reason.

Gregor, any chance you have measurements for the locking bolt and wrench for that vise? I also have a 973, although mine locks really nicely, but it's missing the original wrench which I'd like to get. The wrench that seems to fit the best is 9/16" but most of the replacements I've seen are listed as 3/4".

Mine nut was very hammered and rounded out at the bottom so I cleaned it up on the mill a while ago. I think this took it down to 15mm and I think 9/16 is like 15.5? The wrench is a "no.1" and it measures 15.5mm-ish.

Not sure that is helpful.

Gregor
 

ebarker9

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Mine nut was very hammered and rounded out at the bottom so I cleaned it up on the mill a while ago. I think this took it down to 15mm and I think 9/16 is like 15.5? The wrench is a "no.1" and it measures 15.5mm-ish.

Not sure that is helpful.

Gregor

Very helpful, thanks. Just have to track down a No. 1 wrench.
 

gasgas17

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Nov 7, 2009
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Nova Scotia, Canada
They may have had the table in a shop equipped with an overhead crane or forklift. The last thing you want is the table top moving on it's base if you bump it with a similarly heavy work piece while setting it on or moving around the table. Like in my brothers work place below. I would say they were wise to have welded it in place for safety reasons.

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Honest Bob

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Jul 3, 2010
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263
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Easton, PA
I've been using the Rustoleum Pro enamel on a frame off restoration on my truck for everything but the frame itself. Axles, and other brackets. Brushing it on may be a bit slower but way less mess.
 
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sakurama

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I've been wanting to get projects wrapped up without taking on new ones - a difficult proposition - but the little XR is very close.

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For this exhaust I wanted to avoid doing the machined steps that I did on the mini tracker. Supposedly steps are an advantage because they disrupt the reverse exhaust pulses. I think that plays a pretty small part compared to the more primary issues such as size and length. And that seems smaller than things like intake design. Without dyno testing you're really just guessing.

So I decided to guess that it would be fun to make a mandrel to flare the tube and get rid of the steps. It's something I've always liked in terms of design but didn't really know how to do. I saw a YouTube video from the Japanese BMW builder 46 Works and saw him make a simple steel one and use his hydraulic press to do the flare. I had tried this a long time ago with an expanding flare tool with poor results and gave up. With the press this worked really well.

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I bought one of the Mfurick glass lenses to try and so far haven't found it much different aside from getting a better view. Looks cool though.

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Normally I pulse fuse my stainless. This is much easier than feeding rod because you eliminate one task but I wanted to try feeding the rod so the weld was proud and then grind the weld down and polish/brush the whole exhaust so it looked like a single tube.

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My test part showed that it would be really tricky to do this because there would almost always be some low areas that will persist and you'd have to go back, fill and regrind them. Aside from how much work this would be it would be compounded by some of the bends. Also, in the end, success would end up making it look like a stock exhaust so I bailed on that idea.

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I had ordered a extra fittings for air hose for the power drawbar and thought this would be a good time to make a specialized fitting for purging the exhaust. I was a little concerned that heat might make the o-ring melt but the back of the exhaust was about 5" from the cap.

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My test part didn't melt the o-ring which was great.

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I repacked the exhaust so it should be much quieter now.

Part of what was holding me back on this was wanting to do video and the confusion that imparts to my process. In the end I said screw it and just started putting it together. I worked from front to back and back to front since the muffler already had it's single mounting point.

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One of my goals was to reangle the muffler. The stock BBR pipe held the muffler at an almost horizontal angle and that looked very slow and dull. I wanted to tip that up to match the rear fender and to make the exhaust sort of wind in and out along the motor so it had a very snake like feel. The purpose was to try to keep it tucked in as tight as possible as Lara always burned her pants on the old exhaust despite the fact that it had a heat shield.

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I love the look of a tacked up header pipe. They're so sculptural.

So some of the things I learned from my tracker I thought I'd apply to this XR - more out of curiosity than burning need. One was the smaller exhaust port. This Takegawa head is 15 years old and has a much larger port than the new Kitaco head. It's probably just over an inch in diameter compared with less than 3/4" for the Kitaco.

i-HbJt2dw-X2.jpg


For this exhaust I decided to use the 1" header tube that I used on the tracker to neck down the exhaust but I also sectioned it and ground the inside of each section to tighten, ever so slightly, the tube as it came out of the head. I never liked the giant radius of the mini tracker exhaust. Then I did the tapers from 1" - 1-1/4" and then to 1-1/2" so this pipe should have bit more velocity to it.

i-tkNNj4G-X2.jpg


The issue with taking a bit out of the inside of the sections is that it can look faceted but I think I took out a small enough amount that it still has curve and doesn't look bad.

i-F2G39Qd-X2.jpg


I love the look of it. The BBR exhaust that this replaces was much larger diameter at the front and about the same at at the back with one diameter change done by inserting the smaller tube into the larger. I'm hoping that this pipe gives a bit more grunt - being a relative term for a 12hp bike.

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The other thing I learned from the tracker is that a bigger carb flows more air. I'd been told by lots of people that smaller carbs have more velocity and so far I've never seen or experienced that. My KTM 990 on the dyno was much better with a 41 than the 39 despite what everyone said. Supposedly a big carb would make the motor fall on it's face but the 28mm Lectron truly woke up the tracker. So the next thing on the list is to bore the 24mm Mikuni flat slide that is on it out to at least 26mm and maybe more. 26 is probably the smart money as this is a smaller motor.

I've never bored a carb so that should be fun. That's next and then the bike should be pretty close to wrapped up and ready to terrorize the neighborhood.

Gregor
 

zmotorsports

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The other thing I learned from the tracker is that a bigger carb flows more air. I'd been told by lots of people that smaller carbs have more velocity and so far I've never seen or experienced that. My KTM 990 on the dyno was much better with a 41 than the 39 despite what everyone said. Supposedly a big carb would make the motor fall on it's face but the 28mm Lectron truly woke up the tracker. So the next thing on the list is to bore the 24mm Mikuni flat slide that is on it out to at least 26mm and maybe more. 26 is probably the smart money as this is a smaller motor.

I've never bored a carb so that should be fun. That's next and then the bike should be pretty close to wrapped up and ready to terrorize the neighborhood.

Gregor

Great work as always Gregor. The pipe turned out great.

As for the carb theory, I found that with the TM flatslides this didn't necessarily hold as true as with the VM carbs. With the VM too large a carb would flow great at mid to upper RPM's but be somewhat flat from idle to mid range, then come on strong. The TM's pretty much threw that out the window as the cross section being less they grabbed the fuel almost instantly off idle and pulled it from the bowl.

Around the late 90's there was a product that came out call UFO's (Ultimate Flow Optimizers) that were designed for the VM series of carbs These filled in the void under the slide and were supposed to flow just like a flatslide (TM). Although they did improve immensely they still didn't respond quite as favorable as the true TM carb.

When we'd install the UFO's onto a sled it was almost a perfect starting point to cut the pilot jet in half and drop the needle jet at least one full scale and usually still ended up dropping the needle a clip position or two. That was how much better the VM's flowed and responded with the UFO's installed.

Sorry to sidetrack, just a little flashback for me to my two-stroke racing days.:bounce:
 

Vertigo Cycles

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That's looking SO good. Great work as always.


FWIW, I haven't found too many of those fancy welding cups to be very good and I have a few of them. I think the biggest issue is that there's not enough volume behind the screens to build up a little pressure to have a nice columnar argon flow. None of the fancy cups I've purchased has better than a #12 EXCEPT the Tika cup from UBI. Those have outstanding coverage...however, I wouldn't recommend that anyone buy one of the new ones as the guy who makes them changed the collet to something goofy that's a huge pain in the beans to use, doesn't last long and prevents you from flipping the tungsten if you've accidentally dipped it in the puddle.

You can make your own, and I know you'll probably want to. When I can find the video my buddy posted about how he does his, I'll send it to you. Or if you'd rather spend a little money, call up Brad Bingham and buy one of his. I don't own one, but I've used one and they're unsurprisingly excellent. Very similar to the Tika but with components that make more sense, that are easily replaceable and allow you to run a couple inches of stickout with great coverage (at ~25-30 cfh) if you need it.
 

zmotorsports

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I haven't noticed much, if any, improvement in the big cups either. Maybe a little better coverage if you bump the flow but the tradeoff for gas usage is negligible.

For years I've been using gas lense #6 (for aluminum) and #8 (steel and stainless steel) but about a year ago tried a #12 because it seemed all the rage. I wasn't all that impressed and again, saw very little if any improvement but a lot more gas usage. About six months ago I purchased and tried a #10 and found that as a nice compromise on coverage and gas usage. I still use a #8 gas lense for the majority of my work but for some applications I'll swap in my #10 cup.
 
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S

sakurama

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I don't know a lot about gas flow dynamics but screens don't exactly make sense in any way I can think of. A wire has an equal cross section so I can't see it helping smooth flow.

I do know about light flow and if I were to make one I think I'd try to cut up a photo grid. We have extremely fine mesh honeycomb that is about 10mm thick with super fine aluminum (10-20 thou?) and an opening of... hang on. I'm curious now.

i-D4nv55n-X2.jpg


I was pretty darn close. The aluminum is .010" thick and the openings are about .050-.060 so that's a far better ratio in terms of directing flow. It's funny because I remember the first time I saw a screen I thought it seemed an odd solution but what do I know about welding?

i-jDftf9j-X2.jpg


Now, a lot more than I used to. As you both said to make them work you're really bumping the flow way up - I ran double and it was still below the recommended amount which is triple or about 45cfh. When I turned it up that high all I could hear was the sound of money running out of the torch and a flow rate so high it seemed like it would disrupt the arc. I guess it doesn't but still - seems like a poor solution.

Now the question would be how to cut that grid? I suppose a super fast, thin band saw blade might work. Obviously laser or water would work but I don't have that. I think a high speed cut off in a dremmel might work too. It might make sense to freeze the grid in water and then cut it. If you're curious Sean I'll donate a grid to the cause. We never use the fine mesh grids so it wouldn't be a huge loss.

If no one is already doing this I can almost guarantee this would be a massive improvement. Very little restriction and exceptional direction. What is Bingham's solution?

Gregor
 

Vertigo Cycles

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If no one is already doing this I can almost guarantee this would be a massive improvement. Very little restriction and exceptional direction. What is Bingham's solution?

Gregor

I'm blown away that 45cfh is the recommendation for that cup.

Brad's solution...I'll try to describe what I remember. It was in 2013 when I saw it and tried it out so my memory of it probably isn't perfect. It was a #8 or #10 cup run backwards so a standard PTFE gasket would work between it and the torch. He had a gas lens with the bulk of the threads machined off and the shoulder rounded so it would fit in the now backwards cup. All the packing and screens were removed from the lens. He had small tube made from what I think was rolled up copper foil that was pressed or brazed into the lens where the tungsten exits so that it surrounds, but doesn't touch, the tungsten. I think there was also some bronze wool packing crammed up into the cup. IIRC, he provided extra wool so you could pack it at a density you liked.

I should just buy one, but I've got three Tika cups (and a bunch of other crappy ones) in my kit already.

Here's the custom cup from my buddy Rody if you want to check it out.
. This cup needs more packing though, IMO.
 
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Kiwi Canuck

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Langley BC
Gregor, on a different note, what are you using for lathe parting tools and have you much experience in this area?

I need to get setup as I'm currently using a hacksaw which is not awesome, I cut aluminum, brass and some steel and hoped I could get something that would cover most common materials.

I was going to buy an import kit from my local supplier, a holder with HSS blades, but then started reading and noticed that several people have had issues with breaking tools and inserts and wrecking the machined part.

My lathe is a PM1340GT and I have an Aloris QCTP, so I can use anything up to 5/8" with the holders I have or maybe 3/4" X 3/4" shank.

Someone recommended the Aloris BXA-71 as a starting point, but at about $325 US (tool plus holder and inserts) that's quite a bit for a starter setup, not that I don't mind spending the money on good gear, it just seems the more I researched the deeper the rabbit hole went and before I spend that sort of money I would like to make sure it's what I need.

Your welding is looking awesome BTW.

David.
 

Vertigo Cycles

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I haven't noticed much, if any, improvement in the big cups either. Maybe a little better coverage if you bump the flow but the tradeoff for gas usage is negligible.

For years I've been using gas lense #6 (for aluminum) and #8 (steel and stainless steel) but about a year ago tried a #12 because it seemed all the rage. I wasn't all that impressed and again, saw very little if any improvement but a lot more gas usage. About six months ago I purchased and tried a #10 and found that as a nice compromise on coverage and gas usage. I still use a #8 gas lense for the majority of my work but for some applications I'll swap in my #10 cup.

I've tried a #10 on titanium and it's just not enough coverage for the results I'm looking for. Technically, it's fine in most situations as it keeps the weld bead nice and shiny with the right travel speed, but in acute areas (like a 40° inside "corner" on tubing) you can't get enough stickout AND coverage to keep the puddle clean without damming up the joint with foil or another backer. Also, in the outer areas of the HAZ, it'll start to pull in contaminants and will get gold/brown...which is technically OK, but for what I do, it needs to be removed. I'd choose spending extra $$ on argon to get a super clean HAZ over spending 3-5 hours removing oxidation and graining complex joint angles with scotchbrite any day of the week. If I were bead blasting, maybe I'd feel differently...but then again, the really light beads like Potters AH isn't aggressive enough to remove even brown oxidation on titanium without a lot of time spent hitting the oxidized areas...and then you have to match the look on the rest of the frame so it again comes down to time spent vs money spent.
 

Trapps

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Gregor, your skills and creativity continue to inspire. As a DIY guy who also dabbles in motorcycles and photography, there is so much in your thread I can relate to (from an 'in awe' and "holy cow, that's even possible?" kind of way).

Thank you. :thumbup:

In my travels around the intrawebz, I came across this image which can only be one of your creations:
large.jpg

Please share with us how you did it!:headscrat
 
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