Shed height off ground

[jpcjguy]

Hi all,

So I am going to move my 12x20 shed behind the garage now that the exterior build is done.
It used to be where the garage is located now, and the current home is temporary. If you look at the pics attached you can see the gravel area it is going on. The pic with the shed, you can see it is moving about 50 feet straight back, centered between the fence and the garage.
So, of course, I don't remember locations of the blocks it used to sit on. It was pretty high because it was over dirt/grass by the previous owner. It was also on a hodge podge of cinder block and wood.
I want to do this right since it is in the final home. I plan to use the 4" solid concrete block. What should the block spacing be for optimal support? Every 5 feet? There are five 4x4 runners on the 20' length. So that would 4 rows of 5. Is that overkill?
The guy that will move it (for $250) has one of those specialized trailers that it slides up on. I want to have the blocks set and/or ready to go when he goes to move it.

Thanks!

 

[couch67]

What is the floor structure like? Assuming there are floor joists and plywood above the 4x4 runners? I dont think every 5' is overkill but I guess depends what you are planning to store in the shed.

 

[Dutch106]

When I had my shed moved for my garage build they moved it and placed the blocks and leveled it. My shed is a 20x12 as well.

 

[Jeepster04]

Its amazing those blocks dont sink.

 

[Marctrees]

Double check whatever you plan on doing w the moving/ trailer guy to make sure it does not conflict w his modus operandi.

Marc

 

[NUTTSGT]

Double check whatever you plan on doing w the moving/ trailer guy to make sure it does not conflict w his modus operandi.

Marc

That's good advice.


Just remember, it's going to be worth it to spend money on extra blocks now rather than wishing you put a few more under it later.

 

[readhead]

It will depend on if he moves it with the trailer or his mule. Usually we ask that nothing sticks up more than 4” in order to get the equipment in place. If he is using the mule the tires on one end of the center skids will hit the blocks. The center two rows of blocks have to be perfectly leveled because there will be no access later.

A better solution is to grade a level pad for the building. An even better bet is to talk to the mover and ask him what you should or shouldn’t do.

 

[jpcjguy]

Thanks for all the feedback. He will be using one of those specialized shed trailers that tilts. Looking at what Dutch106 has, I think 5 rows might be better spaced at 4 feet apart.
I will double check with the shed mover on what he thinks.
Thanks!

 

[Kaizen]

I moved my 12x10 in pvc pipe. Then just used my floor jack to raise it and slide blocks under from the sides. It is now on a hill so goes from four inches to about a foot off ground. Shed is no match for hydraulics. Even if you place the blocks won’t he just plow into them? Doubt he can cantilever far and drop down on blocks.


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[burleyfarm]

My shed is built as yours is and sits directly on 6-8 inches of crushed stone.


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[jpcjguy]

I moved my 12x10 in pvc pipe. Then just used my floor jack to raise it and slide blocks under from the sides. It is now on a hill so goes from four inches to about a foot off ground. Shed is no match for hydraulics. Even if you place the blocks won’t he just plow into them? Doubt he can cantilever far and drop down on blocks.


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Part of me is thinking having him put it on the ground and then I will do just that - jack it up and put my blocks to my desired height.

 

[mike93lx]

If it is going on stone, just place it on the ground. Why raise it up?

 

[jpcjguy]

If it is going on stone, just place it on the ground. Why raise it up?

Just thinking about better air flow and rain splash up on the sides....

 

[Farmerjonathan]

Ground hogs love buildings laying flat on the ground. Up a couple of blocks and they feel vulnerable and generally don't live under them. Don't forget to block the center, not just the outside perimeter. Planning is good!

 

[jpcjguy]

Ground hogs love buildings laying flat on the ground. Up a couple of blocks and they feel vulnerable and generally don't live under them. Don't forget to block the center, not just the outside perimeter. Planning is good!

good point - not creating a "safe space" for animals!

 

[Kevin54]

Set the shed directly on the stone. It will keep the critters from getting under it. I've moved our shed 3 times in the 27 years we have lived here and have always set it on the stone. Any new prebuilt shed that gets delivered in the neighborhood, they always set it directly on stone and never on blocks.

 

[dreamingmuscle]

Height off the ground is tricky. Too low and rodents and other critters move in. Too high and it becomes a catch all for leaves and trash.

Some space under neath does have some storage possibilities for long stuff like ladders, long iron ect.

Fiberglass ladders and ladder ropes prefer to be out of the uv light.

If you have a dog. Some height will give them a cool dry place to crash. And cats will love the hunting grounds

 

[Kaizen]

good point - not creating a "safe space" for animals!

Roll out small galvanized hardware cloth in the ground. They won’t nest if they can’t get under it. I’ve had groundhogs yearly and they never choose under my shed.


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[dreamingmuscle]

Roll out small galvanized hardware cloth in the ground. They won’t nest if they can’t get under it. I’ve had groundhogs yearly and they never choose under my shed.


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That's a good idea. Chicken wire might be cheaper.

 

[Kaizen]

That's a good idea. Chicken wire might be cheaper.

I wanted to keep little chipmunks out as well so I went with like half inch. Gauge is also important. I think chicken wire is pretty thin isn’t it? If whatever tries to take a bite and breaks it then it won’t work.


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[theoldwizard1]

If it is going on stone, just place it on the ground. Why raise it up?

Is it crushed (jagged edge) stone ? How deep ? Was it mechanically compacted ? How much border outside of the shed will there be ?

The biggest problem with placing a shed directly on the ground is getting suburban wildlife (raccoons, possums, skunks, etc) burrowing underneath. I you have a good 4"-6" of compacted crushed stone with at least a 1' border, you will probably be alright.

 

[acer66]

Ground hogs love buildings laying flat on the ground. Up a couple of blocks and they feel vulnerable and generally don't live under them. Don't forget to block the center, not just the outside perimeter. Planning is good!

Yup, they have set up shop under mine which are sitting on one row of cinder blocks.

 

[Sevenhills1952]

Hate groundhogs! I finally found a cure though (besides 12ga 000buck) which is to get 8 insulators, I use ceramic ones, 1 screw in middle. Put them about 6" up from ground. Fence wire around to electric fence charger.

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[Sevenhills1952]

Hate groundhogs! I finally found a cure though (besides 12ga 000buck) which is to get 8 insulators, I use ceramic ones, 1 screw in middle. Put them about 6" up from ground. Fence wire around to electric fence charger.

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That's 2 insulators each corner, a few inches apart. Wire looped around.

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[mike93lx]

I have some groundhogs in my yard. A couple years ago, we had a conversation where I let them know they could live here as long as they don't dig holes in my lawn. If they didn't play nice, they would be looking down my 22.

So far, we are still in agreement.

 

[burleyfarm]

I wanted to keep little chipmunks out as well so I went with like half inch. Gauge is also important. I think chicken wire is pretty thin isn’t it? If whatever tries to take a bite and breaks it then it won’t work.


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My stone extends out at least 12” on all sides and I’m slowly adding length on one end for storage.

I attached my half inch wire cloth to the 4x4 runners on each end and extended the cloth out about 8” to deter rodents from burrowing under yet still allowing air to circulate. I installed this on both ends. I left the cloth that sits on the ground somewhat loose so that if an animal did gain access that they would be able to crawl out. So far no woodchucks, squirrels or chipmunks but I think there may be some mice that have gotten under which is not a problem. Woodchucks would be a problem. [emoji35]



Dave

 

[Kaizen]

I have some groundhogs in my yard. A couple years ago, we had a conversation where I let them know they could live here as long as they don't dig holes in my lawn. If they didn't play nice, they would be looking down my 22.

So far, we are still in agreement.

Having some around provides good dog entertainment


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[rusty1]

...I stick-built one shed, about 12x 24',...built it on top of some old planks laid on the ground where I used to park my car trailer,...shed built on 4x4's ,...never had a problem with varmits on that one,..built another shed on the grass on 4x4's, varmits found a home under it.

 

[nadogail]

It will depend on if he moves it with the trailer or his mule. Usually we ask that nothing sticks up more than 4” in order to get the equipment in place. If he is using the mule the tires on one end of the center skids will hit the blocks. The center two rows of blocks have to be perfectly leveled because there will be no access later.

A better solution is to grade a level pad for the building. An even better bet is to talk to the mover and ask him what you should or shouldn’t do.

Please educate me about tires on a mule.

 

[readhead]

I will presume that this is a serious question. A mule, in shed speak, is a fork lift type device to move around a shed. It is usually paired with two sets of tires, actually four tires on a single frame, so the mule can lift one end of the building and place the tires under the two skids and then go around to the other end of the shed and pick it up. The shed is now mobile and the installer can drive it anywhere.

 

[burleyfarm]

Here’s the Mule they used to move my shed onto the pad.



Dave

 

[Marctrees]

So it looks like IF one is going to be able to use a Mule, that the underside of the shed needs to be structured in a specific way ?

Saying that cause it appears the "forks" on the Mule are super short, so they need something specific to "plug into"?

I looked again - So if there is another set of tires hiding behind the building then I guess the forks do not need to be long, BUT it STILL looks like the ability to use Mule needs to be built into bottom of building.

I mean ya can't just hook under a standard rim joist and Mule away ... it would rip it out.

?

Marc

 

[Marctrees]

And also it looks like the adjustable height of that T brace is set for same height as top plate of wall.

Marc

 

[burleyfarm]

I wish I could post my video. The forks are short and lift at the floor joists closest to the end. The mule operates and pulls one end of the shed with a set of double tires, friction fit to two 4x4 skids on the opposite end of the shed. Not sure how many joists are engaged. The T-brace helps to steady the mule and shed. In the last picture the operator has lowered the towed end and has moved to the double tire end to lift it higher and knock the tire assembly off then lowers the shed.

 

[burleyfarm]

And also it looks like the adjustable height of that T brace is set for same height as top plate of wall.

Marc

I think you’ll find this interesting.

 

[readhead]

Depending on the builder there is a double joist or a double joist and a 2x6 flat behind the double joist. The flat 2x6 is used by builders that use WK trailers. The trailers use a winch to load the building and they use large hooks to hook over the skids against the flat 2x6. Pine Hill trailers use a roller chain system and don’t need the flat 2x6.

The largest mules can pickup 10k pounds and they are used to move shipping containers. There is only one company that makes and sells mules and only two companies that build and sell trailers. A well equipped trailer is over a 100k.

 

[jpcjguy]

So here is the update. The guy that moved it originally is no longer moving sheds. So I am starting at square one. So much for my $250 follow up move deal. Worked out well for him.....
Now I need to find a new mover - or tackle it myself. Quick look at rates locally and they are starting at $350. This thing has to move about 50 feet slightly down hill...wonder if I can move it myself...

 

[mike93lx]

So here is the update. The guy that moved it originally is no longer moving sheds. So I am starting at square one. So much for my $250 follow up move deal. Worked out well for him.....
Now I need to find a new mover - or tackle it myself. Quick look at rates locally and they are starting at $350. This thing has to move about 50 feet slightly down hill...wonder if I can move it myself...

Pipes to roll it on and 3 buddies. Be done in no time

 

[burleyfarm]

I once moved a 16’ x 24’ garage from one side of my yard to the other by myself.
I jacked it up and put veneer logs under it then pulled it with a come along attached to my truck bumper. Cranking inch by inch. I started after my wife went to work and was done before she got home. [emoji1]. Anything is possible.


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[Marctrees]

So here is the update. The guy that moved it originally is no longer moving sheds. So I am starting at square one. So much for my $250 follow up move deal. Worked out well for him.....
Now I need to find a new mover - or tackle it myself. Quick look at rates locally and they are starting at $350. This thing has to move about 50 feet slightly down hill...wonder if I can move it myself...

If you have an experienced qualified party to move it for $350, I would sure do that.

All depends on your $/ time/ skills ratios.

Marc