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rattle_snake's random shop projects v0.1

OutlawDrifter

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Wow, three post update!

Interior looks very sanitary, Justin, nice work. That is wacky about the steering column, it definitely looks much better. Your transmission "hump" is similar to what I had to do in the '49, used the same type of tape to seal to the floor.

What are your thoughts on the fuse block? Update/Replace?
 
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rattle_snake

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Thanks Marc.

As for electrical system, you can guess how the electrical engineer will do it.
:)

I've started some planning and scribbling of circuits. Main points are:
- repair the factory harness. No solderless crimps, taps or shady splices
- Remove high current items from factory harness (fan motor, lighting, ignition)
- Make a high current fuse/relay center under the hood
- Expand in cab power distribution/relays
- build new disconnectable/modular wiring harnesses for all aftermarket accessorizes (EFI/ignition, audio, gauges, trailer brakes, ect)

Basically same thing I did for my 77 bronco. I used molex connectors back then, looking to use weather pack this time.
 

OutlawDrifter

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Thanks Marc.

As for electrical system, you can guess how the electrical engineer will do it.
:)

I've started some planning and scribbling of circuits. Main points are:
- repair the factory harness. No solderless crimps, taps or shady splices
- Remove high current items from factory harness (fan motor, lighting, ignition)
- Make a high current fuse/relay center under the hood
- Expand in cab power distribution/relays
- build new disconnectable/modular wiring harnesses for all aftermarket accessorizes (EFI/ignition, audio, gauges, trailer brakes, ect)

Basically same thing I did for my 77 bronco. I used molex connectors back then, looking to use weather pack this time.

That should make it easier to execute/use/repair when needed.

I've been building the fog light harness for the 'burb in my noggin, need to get it plotted out and check the goody box to make sure I have what I need. I think I should probably do the Big 3 while I'm wiring it in, I noticed the factory cable sizing is a bit on the smallish side.
 
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rattle_snake

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Spent a lot of hours re-doing the steering box mounting for the 80-97 style ford box I'm switching to. This allows a forward facing pitman arm for better fitment of everything. The 80-97 box has a much shorter sector shaft which places the whole box lower and moves sector/pitman arm towards the center. This shortens drag link and puts the input shaft close to the oil filter. To mitigate these issues I decided to recess the box into the frame like ford did on a stock frame. Could have just used spacers but I like to over complicate for marginal improvements. So I bent a hunk of 1/4x4 flat in the press.
ACtC-3fr62n2XLDNB_LQu0eLpFjcL6E2M2C_IuRbVv7TT-ISrqNi7Xly7jwTEfyMbS4NNp9CbnV1rDiVu8-_Ils0zofBR9VCL60KV_5aQK5Xo9SplxYMZgDXKXvbifkY7yXh0-2CdFK8iMhuca7MC4_fLi4E=w994-h745-no

Then I hacked up the previous attempt and grafted in the recess plate at an appropriate place and angle to get best fitment including the pitman arm to frame at full lock.
ACtC-3fC_kBgSF_P-thefHGWvlbqxZC1CntduikCwzg0x0J6SNMfCdbzZ1C0zQuztMBqgrOsZtj4Ec40n9W4m_8VsM3a9cS3cDw3x9w64XswwGNgyR5jCUIMou4ji398LFUwOQw8LtM8vnGO4VKJz4p-ILN4=w994-h745-no


This placement put upper bolt above frame so I made some provisions
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After lots of welding and grinding I ended up with this. I extended the forward section for aesthetics, and added another brace back to the engine cross member. I moved the track bar mount forward considerably so now the existing brace didn't connect to it. There is a lot of loading here so added some material and a vertical gusset
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Track bar mount moved forward. You can see where it was next to coil over tower, which made the track bar hit the diff, regardless of bending. Of course the new holes are in the way. Now the bracket would hit the tie rod at full bump, so had to cut the lower hole off and make it a 2-holer
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Rolled it outside to paint. Hot as F@#$ so dry in a few minutes.
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Looking ****
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rattle_snake

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Got the steering shaft mocked up. Went with a collapsible type since the angles are low and shafts are lined up at my chest.
ACtC-3cJYnmPHcqJvQJskYV--bKAqvwt1qUb-a31aQdMOs3Qppp7wFCp17q5DLPhzUYXm-O1iNmoZ7nRntj3pmsWT4hZ2lfjeZlaJAzmU1T--GvTWPr330jBcvt3PsNt59jlTL2tb9LohgiGdw3RSNBI_2l0=w559-h745-no


P/S hose will still work for new box. No need to hack up tower for shaft clearance with new box and mounting scheme.
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Spent a fair amount of time locating the track bar bracket to make sure it wouldn't have other issues. At full bump in upper frame hole bar comes close to steering box nut. With frame bracket cut down it still comes really close to drag link when installed over the knuckle. I plan to use GM 1T TRE, with a y-link type on right side. This yields a similar horizontal distance for the drag link and track bar. To get same vertical offset I have 2 close options in track bar mount holes plus another on either side, so should be plenty of adjustability for bump steer.
ACtC-3f6nKH4FjiNhFUWdqGCMZAA9a8dxPAboHj1E-XALOGo-UOF0EadSpOe02TpTcyoYPMOqR9WqbKVL7lBrIZ2vmQSSe2BDakxGDVWY6tZ-dDREQB2kMZ87gg6_-SSWMpRHIv_t7PJdDfEU1FG2rQyfoGe=w994-h745-no

Should still get 12" of travel, I think the fenders will be the problem next.

Filled in the steering wheel cracks with epoxy and hit with some spray paint. Wiped paint off the rubber coating around the rim. Came out OK for minimal time and effort.
ACtC-3c5HtKRYK5vSytrcvhsneDkEWg_gMG0G1UxuDCrEqGiH5QTGvvp9T6yVNM1FuWje-0lTbyI5MwtLIPFZdoBPBcdWWgxRWzJAGTzhDoCNRp8BaPXJxQp6bwMDECm0fMMMVZhstPVBFLkUFzuDUbqRgYA=w994-h745-no


Cleaned up the bench seat and tightened up the drooping upholstery on the drivers side. Installed the seat to get it out of the way and keep grinder sparks off it.
ACtC-3cilcXmmt6z5TI5KphM_5ibnx4fdJSTqr9q1iKzuH-uhiDodcNKD3GRYVynQX9lwltRA9zuM1ptYkVX615ImO5wzXHc2_LfAZoc3KXAaPBoJ3_sxdYuQh8ikNA41mu1Jqn768D5Ymgja1Xlu6eePrHo=w559-h745-no

Steering wheel finally connected to knuckles.
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rattle_snake

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Pulled the wiring harness for TLC. The blower motor has bad bearings and squeals like a pig in addition to drawing way too much current. So someone hacked up the fuse box and put in a auto reset breaker.
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The fan switch also had issue from excessive current. Fan high speed didn't work or the A/C comp clutch circuit for that position. I disassembled the switch, it was corroded badly from overheating. Cleaned contacts but still not working on high. The issue was the middle contact had worn until it didn't bridge the gap between the slides. Used a punch to reshape and now all is well.
s-eBA2xcmmShYX19HzZSBGy93K=w994-h745-no?authuser=0.jpg
 

LXCam

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Ya she is.....sooo hot :drool:

Looking ****
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Dang Justin I thought I'd posted in this thread before but noticed today I hadn't. Been following along for a while when time allows and just had to say....killer project bud. :beer:
 

OutlawDrifter

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Another good update, the recessed box mounting looks like a good solution.

That cab evokes of lot of memories of awesome old pickups I've had the pleasure of driving and riding in...one being a later 70s F150 Ranger trim in green.

Side note/question...do you own stock in black paint?
 

bonneyman

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Excellent fab work!

Is it just the angle of the photo, or is changing the oil filter gonna be a royal pain?
 
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rattle_snake

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Ya she is.....sooo hot :drool:
Dang Justin I thought I'd posted in this thread before but noticed today I hadn't. Been following along for a while when time allows and just had to say....killer project bud. :beer:
Thanks Cam. There is some great wheelin' up on your side of town. Hope to get it out there at some point

Another good update, the recessed box mounting looks like a good solution.
That cab evokes of lot of memories of awesome old pickups I've had the pleasure of driving and riding in...one being a later 70s F150 Ranger trim in green.
Side note/question...do you own stock in black paint?
Not yet, but I am a spray paint snob. Must be Krylon. Rustolem is horrid and take FOREVER to dry even in AZ summer sun.

She is looking amazing!

Good progress. Nice job on steering setup.
Interior looks great.

Truck is awesome.

She does look **** out in the sun :pimpflash

Thanks Guys!

Excellent fab work!
Is it just the angle of the photo, or is changing the oil filter gonna be a royal pain?
Thanks. The oil filter was one of the reasons I went the extra complicated route. It clears the steering shaft u-joint with plenty of room. The van motor came with an leaking angled adapter, but I didn't want to use it. Will still make a mess on cross member so will use some tin foil.

The truck is coming along very nicely Justin. Great work.:beer:
Thanks Mike. Hurt my back wrenching on the cobra so have to just stare at it for awhile. Using the down time to developed electrical plan and schematics.
 

zmotorsports

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Thanks Mike. Hurt my back wrenching on the cobra so have to just stare at it for awhile. Using the down time to developed electrical plan and schematics.

That ***** Justin. I feel for ya as I know how bad an injured back hurts so I wish you a speedy recovery.

Don't overdo it too soon or it will just prolong the recovery.
 
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rattle_snake

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Don't overdo it too soon or it will just prolong the recovery.

Well that's the problem, I don't know any other way. My time is very valuable to me, so to have to lay around for weeks wishing the days away is frustrating. Focusing on the positive and going over next steps on projects in my mind. Parts and pieces arriving for the truck, but I can only fondle them.
:)
So instead of 'working on the truck', I have been doing some light mock-ups and slight modifications on various things.

Built throttle linkage. Used QA1 rod ends and a piece of SS threaded rod. Not complete or what I want but will work for now. A cable setup would be better. The pivot ratio isn't quite right, need to extend the upper bar to decrease pedal range and get pedal closer to floor for foot comfort. I had already cut the felt out below pedal to help the situation.
Need to add a throttle return spring anchor. Plan to redo the trans kick-down bracket to incorporate it, and move the cable over to line up better with throttle cam.
SE3rOKA2vDXF8QtjjN8zT6cQNo=w994-h745-no?authuser=0.jpg

I made a proof-of-concept shift linkage setup. Since the transmission is out of a 78/79 Bronco, the gear select lever is 180* from the 72 2WD C6. So the '72 simple single rod linkage results in the gear pattern being backwards. I looked up the 79 linkage which consists of brackets on trans and frame, and a bar across that has a bell crank. This is to get linkage out of the way of the front driveshaft.
I simplified the system using a bell crank on trans only. Rod end connect to gear selector. I made an aluminum bushing on the lathe to adapt to the large hole that would have had a rubber bushing. The bell crank has a bronze sleeve and a bolt cut to length to bottom out in threads. I measured the relative lever throw distance and started with a 1:1 ratio on bell crank arms. The distance between gears on the column shift was a bit off so I drilled another hole to adjust ratio and it's pretty close. I shortened the factory link and bent it to not bind the rubber bushing at the column.
The setup works OK and will have to work for now. Most of the shift slop is gone now that shift collar is actually attached to column tube.
Would like to build a larger bell crank that will accept a 0.75 hole for a 0.5 ID bronze bushing. This way I can use a 3/8-16 x 1/2 shoulder bolt, which is a better solution than bottoming threads. Have some DOM to make the barrel out of. Also got another rod end, might replace the factory link and rubber bushing end.
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Machined the steering column shaft to properly fit the Borgeson u-joint. Spun the shaft and used grinder like a lathe to cut the shaft down to spline minor diameter.
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Decided to use braided soft AN3 brake lines for the master cylinder to distribution block. Used inverted flare to AN adapters and 90* hoses. For this to work well the distribution block needed to be rotated and flipped. The mount is swedge on, so I cut it off and welded it back on the other side. Still need to redo the hard lines.
RhCfQ6MuXEzzRmAdj1HhYjlxyE=w559-h745-no?authuser=0.jpg

After a long engineering analysis and a few setbacks I decided on a ignition system for the 466 Ford. Holley owns MSD and others, so they re-brand ignition amplifier boxes under many names. They sell the MSD 6Ax variants in other flavors. Distributor is a Ford Duraspart II custom curved by Scotty at PPAM, who ported the heads, for this motor combo. It uses an induction coil rotation sensor so I needed a box that accepts mag inputs, so I went with the MSD 6EFI. Aka 6AL but $75 less. Inside it is a 550 V step up power supply to drive the coil.
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EFI ECUs can have electromagnetic interference issues from the noisy high voltage ignition system. So plan it to run coil on right fender and keep plug wires away from throttle body. Using cut to length wires, well, because I am particular. Need to get the inner fenders cut up to fit around the coil-over towers and installed before I can mount anything or run wiring.
BfjYJVsuCIaERyyc-MmBhmHgy=w1063-h797-no?authuser=0.jpg
 
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rattle_snake

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Rebuilt the transmission kick down bracket to improve cable alignment and add a throttle return spring attachment. Cut up the old and extended it. I wanted to be able to adjust spring pre-load, so I drilled and taped a piece of solid rod and milled a flat for mounting on the bracket. Cut the head off a bolt and cross drilled for the dual springs.
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Also added an analog fuel pressure gauge
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OutlawDrifter

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Justin, I was actually getting ready to check on you. I had the thread opened up and got called out of the office...and then you posted...were your ears burning?

How's the back?
 
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rattle_snake

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Decided to rebuild/reseal the brake distribution block and disc delay circuit. Else the law of Murphy would dictate it would leak. Seals are cheap. Had to use a fermented beverage and a grease gun to force the piston out. Got away with making adapter out of a hose and clamps.
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Since drum brakes actuate slowly compared to discs, Ford added a mechanical delay circuit. Just a spring that prevents flow to output ports until spring force is overcome.
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rattle_snake

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Justin, I was actually getting ready to check on you. I had the thread opened up and got called out of the office...and then you posted...were your ears burning?

How's the back?
Back is doing better, going to PT. In the dangerous part were I can do stuff but need to be careful. So puttering on the things I can to keep my sanity.
 

OutlawDrifter

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Glad to hear you're on the mend.

I see a can of Sierra Nevada Pale Ale...good stuff! I've found its one I can get most places I travel.
 
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rattle_snake

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Decided to go ahead and upgrade alternator while I am redoing the entire electrical system. The externally regulated 55A unit is noisy and under sized for winching duties.
Went with a large case 3G unit rated at 240A. Non-single wire, so can run sense wire to bat. My boat has a GM based self-excited alt, and you have to rev it up to get it to charge once warm, don't like that.
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The large case 3G is physically larger so the mounting brackets needed some mods. I cut a wedge out of the lower slotted bracket to align the arc and center in the adjustment range. The pulley ratio is 8/2-5/8 = ~3, which is fairly high given the big crank pulley. This allows 2000 alt rpm at engine idle speed of 650 and should make 100A. At 5500 engine rpm, alt is around 16k which is about max for this type.
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The axial alignment was sightly off with the spacer I made for the old alternator, so I cut 50 thou off. I had to use washers to space the bracket for the old, now everything fits properly with no spacers.
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rattle_snake

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Since I'm deep in electrical mods, the time seemed right to address the instrumentation. I'm cheap but my better half thought a Dakota digital VHX analog gauge set would make a nice father day gift. Not convinced I'm worth it, but it does solve some issues and offset some cost.
I need reliable, accurate gauges for my new $7k motor to be run hard in the middle of nowhere. I've repaired the factory gauges a few times now and would not consider them robust or accurate given no actual values on the faces. So I needed get the following:
-oil pressure
-water temp
-trans temp
-fuel for GM sender
-volts
The VHX system can support all this plus a tach, and is expandable. Can add up to 16 more data channels that can be displaced on little LCD. I added a temp channel for the transmission. The fuel gauge is programmable so can connect directly to in tank sender plus calibration.
But can't put the new panel in the old bezel. All chrome was gone from 48 years of UV, now just yellow plastic.
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I masked and painted black and grey. Came out OK.
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Goods arrived and test fit. 2 and 3 wire diff sensors and PHX style removable connectors. Can ditch mech speedo cable plus calibrate. Into the 21 century now.
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rattle_snake

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Started into mod and repairs on factory harness. Uses as an excuse to upgrade my wiring quality and tooling.
-a pair of new Kline strippers for 10 to 30 ga.
-Weather pack assortment from 1 to 5 pin and a crimper
-heatshrink crimp connector kit with crimper
-adhesive cloth and non-adhesive vinyl harness wraps
-12 different colors of quality 18 ga copper wire spools.

I printed 1972 schematic to identify and plan mods. Going to add a 6 fuse/6 relay power block under the hood for the various needs. The factory harness will do only lighting, wipers, cigar. Instrumentation, ignition and HVAC will have their own harnesses that integrate with connectors so each piece is removable.
nKT3J7Hp9LWpvzm3QxLkGlxE5-=w972-h729-no?authuser=0.jpg
 
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rattle_snake

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Awesome score on the gauges!
Ya I'm pretty happy to have decided to go this route. Didn't want aftermarket gauges sprinkled around in the cab. I could have adapted some of the aftermarket gauges into stock cluster but would have been a lot of work, and a kludge at best. Now I have 7 gauges in the cluster plus the other indicators all with clean wiring.
 
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rattle_snake

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Chandler, AZ
With distribution block re-orientated, I re-bent the output lines to match up. Much cleaner. I tried to position the block inside the frame as best possible in case the front drive shaft u-joint fails and the shaft flops all over wrecking things. It should never come up high enough to get inside frame, but you never know.
YdbkFbNBw_Hc5o188GAuQdJgCv=w972-h729-no?authuser=0.jpg

Committed to the front brake hose locations. Finish welded, painted. The brake system is almost complete. Just need to hook up pedal, tighten all fittings, bleed and check for leaks.
XgM3lTjjRJv9tx1z-K8mpXPJE9=w972-h729-no?authuser=0.jpg
 
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rattle_snake

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Chandler, AZ
Finally got the newer wheels and used tires put on Mrs rattle_snake's burb. Tires were from the 72 ford, decent load range E Pirelli's. Saved a bunch of money not buying 4 new tires. 20200702_120123.jpeg
 

OutlawDrifter

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Jan 20, 2015
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3,876
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Wheels/tires definitely look better.

I towed 250k+ miles with a similar 2005 Suburban at my last job. Should treat the Mrs. ok.
 
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rattle_snake

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Welded in a bung for transmission temperature sensor. C-6 has a non-lockup converter and will run hotter pushing against 40" rubber and 1960's aerodynamics. Although there is a port in trans body, best place to sense is in fluid reservoir.
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I'm not a good enough welder to do a 360 weld, so I do 90 at a time the best i can. Cam out ok shouldn't leak. One can see how start/stop creates hot spots.
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I hammered a few more dents out of the pan and fixed up the paint. Need to run a hard line to the trans vacuum actuator.
 
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rattle_snake

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Fitted and installed the plug wire. Taylor spiro pro's. Used some 5/16 SS tubing clamps to secure wires. Kind of a redneck solution, but cheap and effective. Goes with my camo arrow radio antenna.
_3ysVRjxZZWhZ8Iv0ebwQpKDsn=w986-h739-no?authuser=0.jpg

Tried a few schemes, ended up clamping only the rear-most wire and using the separators to hold the rest. Since actual distributor clocking positsion is unknown, I had to guess and make sure the wires were long enough to allow rotation in either direction.
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Jeff Ivers

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Apr 9, 2010
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Location
Oklahoma
Started into mod and repairs on factory harness. Uses as an excuse to upgrade my wiring quality and tooling.
-a pair of new Kline strippers for 10 to 30 ga.
-Weather pack assortment from 1 to 5 pin and a crimper
-heatshrink crimp connector kit with crimper
-adhesive cloth and non-adhesive vinyl harness wraps
-12 different colors of quality 18 ga copper wire spools.

I printed 1972 schematic to identify and plan mods. Going to add a 6 fuse/6 relay power block under the hood for the various needs. The factory harness will do only lighting, wipers, cigar. Instrumentation, ignition and HVAC will have their own harnesses that integrate with connectors so each piece is removable.
ACtC-3dHTlRYTj48guwMfmEIr9ZGrqhmY30SFdZ9S6RDd_KCn98OFozHhpbEmSljXdKtuVrh9JwqkxZKvBQyGmOF4NitwzMeI2A0BLfTCGGEryYKGeBnmDY5kphHho3l3NnKT3J7Hp9LWpvzm3QxLkGlxE5-=w972-h729-no

What is the story with what appears to be an oil pan hanging above your bench?
 

zmotorsports

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21,381
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Clean wiring job Justin. Nice job on putting the temperature sending unit bung in the trans. pan. They also serve well as drain plugs to avoid the ATF down the arm dripping off the elbow syndrome.:bounce:
 
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rattle_snake

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What is the story with what appears to be an oil pan hanging above your bench?

I bought a 460 for my project truck and that was the pan it came with, but obviously not usable. So I turned junk into a shelf, to space random **** up off the workbench. Wall was too plain and needed character. I seem to have plenty of 'stuff' that I can't quite throw away (yet), and too cheap for shop decorations that anyone else can just go buy.

Clean wiring job Justin. Nice job on putting the temperature sending unit bung in the trans. pan. They also serve well as drain plugs to avoid the ATF down the arm dripping off the elbow syndrome.:bounce:

Hmmm, had not though of that side benefit. I seem to find a way to end up with ATF in places it shouldn't go, armpit, back of skull, and so on.
:dunno:
 
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rattle_snake

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Started fitting (aka hacking) the front inner fenders to clear the coilover towers. Hung the fenders and valence/bumper temporarily just to see how things would look. Sometimes I have to waste time on stuff like this to provide the illusion of progress.
Te3bqLQ2w-GWjmvJyIc52ig6gU=w986-h739-no?authuser=0.jpg

I moved the front axle forward about 2" for cab mount clearance and improved approach angle, with the plan of opening up the front of the wheel opening for the larger tire. There is enough clearance behind and above the tire, by design. I back calculated 'ride height' from a mock-up tire while truck was at this height on the lift. Most things don't quite go to plan but somehow I didn't manage to mess this up.
So the plan is to section the already dented fender and move front half of opening forward 2", then raise the front section up a bit too. Needs to clear when at full steering lock and bump. Have to trim valence to match and mod bumper.
t2hwt7rBufN9oe3mmCVo5SDwkY=w555-h739-no?authuser=0.jpg
 

LXCam

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Apr 23, 2013
Messages
19,122
Location
AZ
So the plan is to section the already dented fender and move front half of opening forward 2", then raise the front section up a bit too. Needs to clear when at full steering lock and bump. ]


Orrr, ya could leave it be and let it self clearance :dunno: :lol:



Once again J, she’s turning out stellar! :bowdown:
 

zmotorsports

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Oct 20, 2009
Messages
21,381
Location
Northern Utah
Stance is looking great Justin.

Are you thinking about cutting something like this and moving the section forward about 2", then you would just have a small section to fill over the middle of the lip?
 

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