Conduit on walls questions/examples
- Thread starter Samh
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nadogail
Well-known member
We bought the Benfield bending guide book and followed the instruction.
Do you happen to have any pictures of your install?
Shiftless
Well-known member
I wired 3 boxes with receptacles on the wall in back of my workbench. I also have 5 duplex receptacles hooked together in conduit on the ceiling with a switched circuit for overhead lights. Works for me.
For the connectors, I used the outdoor style rather than the ones with set screws. Only a few pennies more each and I like the smoother look and no protruding screws to catch on.
You can use those connectors for EMT coming out of surface mounted sub panels in your garage. I don’t have any pics handy of my sub panel set up, but I used these connectors.
They’re called “rain tite “
Edit: I used “compression” fittings...NOT rain tight
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If they are in a indoor dry location no need to spend the extra money for raintight fittings.
Bad Habit
Well-known member
"Only a few pennies more each and I like the smoother look and no protruding screws to catch on."
Bunk
Well-known member
I'm with you Shiftless, I like the outdoor style fittings as well.
nadogail
Well-known member
IMHO, Set Screw fittings are for amateurs.
There are 2 kinds of compression fittings, raintight, and just plain compression, if indoors and a dry location unless you have money to squander there is no reason to use raintight, plus raintight is more finicky to work with.
Bad Habit
Well-known member
True, I wonder if the big box stores carry both though, especially in the smaller sizes. I figure not a big difference for a few fittings. More than that, you're probably in the trade and would get them at a real wholesaler.
Shiftless
Well-known member
Correction:
When I mentioned rain tight fittings earlier, I should have said “compression fittings”. I used compression fittings. Sorry
Here are Home Depot prices for a 5 pack of half inch EMT straight connectors.
Set screw style connectors $2.40
Compression connectors $3.10
That’s 14 cents more for each one.
When I mentioned rain tight fittings earlier, I should have said “compression fittings”. I used compression fittings. Sorry
Here are Home Depot prices for a 5 pack of half inch EMT straight connectors.
Set screw style connectors $2.40
Compression connectors $3.10
That’s 14 cents more for each one.
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Here's pictures of the conduit I redid in my garage. I used compression fittings on all the boxes. This was my first time bending EMT also.
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/B7rIknjJWaRRJzGQLQXeXHtIoc6ZuOSCkXswSXiuvHgr0eiQqv1Ek5xRiwvpSZzEC_SiCItWLe3TF9TJxOElyvPludQ0lFp3Dzq2kkrUOOZm1cW7XQiHLeKOmxg_wmOCKaYdeeYi_vVvUq1yM_wrj8oZ0vxfRjpQZKEGfiZvEKu-94bHtBKB9bQkhNfHL60iw1JG2brGpAMynrECt79Sv9JPjERIzG9JzVP_HoD-CMpkEqfgRmI4U78dJkx6q4k2rYhepBKtw5pReBCtX9hrY5tMYN5VkIDrCfh4KJItDjaSOSRGdtbLmOA7I9l5O5ROzEngEeyo2749NokBLbokyt7h5JqeqFmyq4TfwTEekopCjLCKz1HxsKlU6PSfcWhm2qFZEX2s9Bph-vk1ZyQGYdaSiBnBEN4A_mKVrBXIdWCmZtwaz405jTjCqQJlRL7OiTDVjUr1hp0T7rhNh5JMQnuiPQtm0N7ZBNssmbP8cC5c5U05LhuGNTJttX0tYp-gvWl23hKX_obY8fvuj5W31Nfi9KgCZLqqqwBU0Jwnfo_DAxrDSDquuqxKTSY_7nVU
gLWvEuZJNJdTW39YOtgoRLdFJ3ay8rsw7v6A7QUc3yd4LPZHaRExpumPv4OE5JnN1jXkFpCXP7QgGGkCzK8OIQRntb0q44WayqrSnrVFwfMTa1Y3miF2Rlh7CI7mZA=w640-h480-no?authuser=0
While I don’t want to pick on the poster, this is a very good example of what not to do, those handy/gem boxes are the absolute worst boxes to work with they are exceeding the box fill and have to cut the every device screw because they bottom out on the fittings, it’s like trying to stuff 10 pounds of manure in a 5 pound bag, use a 4 square box and a device cover and it will be easier to wire and be a cleaner install.
Shiftless
Well-known member
Norcal has it right.
The 4x4 boxes are so much easier to safely stuff wires back into. Plus, if you ever found the need to have 4 receptacles in one location or later wanted 2 duplex receptacles on 2 different circuits in the same location, there would already be an adequately sized box waiting for you to use.
The 4x4 boxes are so much easier to safely stuff wires back into. Plus, if you ever found the need to have 4 receptacles in one location or later wanted 2 duplex receptacles on 2 different circuits in the same location, there would already be an adequately sized box waiting for you to use.
BigGarage
Well-known member
I've since been told that I should not have used these size boxes but it's too late now. I used the set-screw connectors. I have a box every 30".
Dennis
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grounded-b
Well-known member
Actually, in earthquake prone areas, I have read that the steel ( not die-cast) set-screw type maintains it's mechanical connection to the conduit better than a compression connector.
here's a link : https://amftgs.com/seismic_rated_electrical_fittings/
Steve
At the panel? With a surface-mount panel, there's nothing special to do. Just run the EMT right out the side, top, or bottom. Mild offset bends make the conduit lay flatter on the wall.
Compression connectors may not meet the requirements for ground/bond path, and you have to pull in the extra EGC/bond wire. Not sure what the NEC says about it (not my Code).
Maybe in Canada, but not under the NEC.
grounded-b
Well-known member
I don't see a single conduit support ( strap ) anywhere... Need a strap within 36" of a box and every 10 feet there after.
Steve
Shiftless
Well-known member
Yes, those are the rules.
Is there a generally allowed length of conduit that is allowed to be supported only by its terminations? The boxes on each end?
BigGarage has boxes every 30 inches. So one could possibly argue that the conduit is indeed supported within 36 inches of each box because it is firmly attached to the next box.
(But we all know what the likely outcome will be if you argue with a building inspector)
.
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BigGarage
Well-known member
Those pictures were taken before the job was completely finished. Thanks for your concern.
P.S. Note my signature line. Inspectors don't concern me.
Dennis
AntonLargiader
Well-known member
BigGarage's long 240V run is visibly sagging without support.
BigGarage
Well-known member
There is no 240 volt anywhere in the garage and as I just posted those pics were taken before the job was completed.
Dennis
AntonLargiader
Well-known member
My bad; I thought the big box in the last pic was a 240V recep. Well, whatever that long upper run is, that's what I was talking about.
And you're the one who posted it as an example... don't get annoyed with us for thinking that's what you actually did
And you're the one who posted it as an example... don't get annoyed with us for thinking that's what you actually did
BigGarage
Well-known member
I am not annoyed sir, quite the opposite actually. It's not the first time I've posted pics I took while a project was in progress and someone misinterpreted them as a finished product. Those pics are probably 9 years old now.
Dennis
Kaizen
Well-known member
AntonLargiader
Well-known member
Kaizen
Well-known member
That quad box looks a little off.
Yea the ceiling sucked. Wanted the boxes lower then the ceiling and at a certain spot so I got the bend off.
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EngineerNate
Well-known member
The steel setscrew type tend to maintain better electrical continuity over time as well, probably because the setscrew bites past the zinc coating on the outside a bit.
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Light to light will be exposed under ceiling. Rest is in attic but still paid attention to accurate lines. Get a laser.
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Thanks, this is exactly what I was looking for.
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Kaizen
Well-known member
It’s important to visualize where everything will be so you knock out the right holes. To the right I have 2 circuits of outlets and a 3/4 for 240 plug. Punched out at the height I wanted. Try not to have conduit crossing makes it easier as it’s all on the same plane
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Ilikeike
ALLIANCE MEMBER
EngineerNate
Well-known member
The zinc set screw connectors are ugly. I don't mind the steel ones.
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sberry
Banned
I like set screw, use some handi boxes too. Usually at the end of the line or for switches.
sberry
Banned
I don't know squat about electricity, wiring is another matter but I have a lot of design experience and copy old timers for a long time and do it or hopefully done it wrong a lot of times.
Mostly so as no one notices but me, it looks good and that's how I can get by without being a true sparky because the design looks good and most people don't know any different. I can still find a couple things I might change with most jobs and even portions of jobs, the layout, mounting, and if its big enough the list of coulda woulda shoulda gets longer. Did it last week doing a job I have done dozens of times.
Mostly so as no one notices but me, it looks good and that's how I can get by without being a true sparky because the design looks good and most people don't know any different. I can still find a couple things I might change with most jobs and even portions of jobs, the layout, mounting, and if its big enough the list of coulda woulda shoulda gets longer. Did it last week doing a job I have done dozens of times.
sberry
Banned
My service pops out and this is a segmented thought, its easy to use multiple posts, I might have written it, didn't hit the send or from another device,,, so,,,,
Big things I learned is when I plan I got wayyyyyyyyyy too much. More than I need when the dust settles and its worth making some changes, its worth doing some jobs, details twice, you can try for perfect but oft just as easy to tailor it when done. A couple well planned tailorable hydrants beats a dozen everywhere .
I was the king of starting complicated,,, I can relate to the garage journal cause I done some of these jobs a lot, some several, some once but ones interest me is the lot. It has become second nature for me to install or mod a hydrant when its needed or practical, some I put up with long enough but its a place where the rubber hits the road and I needed to add 20 ft after all that planning to get it to work right.
So,,, whats it got to do with it,, get the mains in the right spot, leave some means and when I wired as needed and as I went I used 1/2 the material and 1/2 the work to get it tailor made. I have some remnants I still could remove from changes, at first I needed a box with 4 outlets cause I had **** plugged in from everwhere but as I tailored and added most of that went away and the service outlets are empty and have a dozen but use a couple one at a time and the need for double circuits everywhere is highly exaggerated. I got another I could get on adjacent or could be added any time or can even be solved by cords on occasion, all that **** and even multi wire in common residential is ok, its ok with a lot of people but for the diy its just more stuff.
Sometimes I aint messisng with it, been there done it and on occasion asimply run another wire or even a pipe so it aint gotta all be in one and there is nothing better,,,, more better than a pipe single circuit to an outlet or equipment.
I got 3 6/50 mounted in a deep 2x4 box and 1/2 pipe the horror of it all. Scrap of pipe, 2 connectors, small box with recept screwed in, few ft of 10 wire.
Fundamentally don't have any pipe bigger than 3/4 and use 4 inch boxes and if I am putting devices like gfci or welder in I have some deep, 2 inch I think.
Big things I learned is when I plan I got wayyyyyyyyyy too much. More than I need when the dust settles and its worth making some changes, its worth doing some jobs, details twice, you can try for perfect but oft just as easy to tailor it when done. A couple well planned tailorable hydrants beats a dozen everywhere .
I was the king of starting complicated,,, I can relate to the garage journal cause I done some of these jobs a lot, some several, some once but ones interest me is the lot. It has become second nature for me to install or mod a hydrant when its needed or practical, some I put up with long enough but its a place where the rubber hits the road and I needed to add 20 ft after all that planning to get it to work right.
So,,, whats it got to do with it,, get the mains in the right spot, leave some means and when I wired as needed and as I went I used 1/2 the material and 1/2 the work to get it tailor made. I have some remnants I still could remove from changes, at first I needed a box with 4 outlets cause I had **** plugged in from everwhere but as I tailored and added most of that went away and the service outlets are empty and have a dozen but use a couple one at a time and the need for double circuits everywhere is highly exaggerated. I got another I could get on adjacent or could be added any time or can even be solved by cords on occasion, all that **** and even multi wire in common residential is ok, its ok with a lot of people but for the diy its just more stuff.
Sometimes I aint messisng with it, been there done it and on occasion asimply run another wire or even a pipe so it aint gotta all be in one and there is nothing better,,,, more better than a pipe single circuit to an outlet or equipment.
I got 3 6/50 mounted in a deep 2x4 box and 1/2 pipe the horror of it all. Scrap of pipe, 2 connectors, small box with recept screwed in, few ft of 10 wire.
Fundamentally don't have any pipe bigger than 3/4 and use 4 inch boxes and if I am putting devices like gfci or welder in I have some deep, 2 inch I think.
sberry
Banned
so buy 2 benders, a 1/2 and 3/4, 2 full boxes of male threaded adapters each size, box of couplings should last the rest of your life, now is the time to buy a box of ground screws. Buy pipe 10 at a time, have some extra and we can get to wire later but the point is to have it on hand.
Get a lifetime supply of 16 cords a few lamp cords a couple 4 pack of power strips and bring the service in and a couple outlets and hook the place up. When you figure some out run the pipe out of the way a piece at a time, a handi box makes a great coupling in spots, so easy to run a cable for a fixture too, allows access for another switched wire.
Pipe lets a guy switch,,, its one of its huge assets, no more fixtures, clamps etc simply add another wire, use a 4x4 box so 2 switches is easy and common. I worked on residential the other day, a newer home but the builder wire guy used a 2x4 and had to start out with a 15$ switch where 2 49 cent one would worked better and not made a cramped job.
A little extra wire is well worh a gob of automation if it will work. Same thing,,, well lets just use this gadget, its only 60$ and hooks to the phone or some **** and only needs 2 batteries in the unit and a couple in a remote, yuck. I charged another hour for pulling in another cable for 3 way, done deal, I wanted done instead of another trip to a fukkin store for some more **** in tamper proof packages.
Nothing beats surface or even some combination for being able to wire as you go but the key is getting SOME simple stock you will eventually use, find the custom later but have enough that you can reach it when needed.
A couple different times I spent a couple weeks off and on or one time came home in the evening and wired a circuit every night.
Get a lifetime supply of 16 cords a few lamp cords a couple 4 pack of power strips and bring the service in and a couple outlets and hook the place up. When you figure some out run the pipe out of the way a piece at a time, a handi box makes a great coupling in spots, so easy to run a cable for a fixture too, allows access for another switched wire.
Pipe lets a guy switch,,, its one of its huge assets, no more fixtures, clamps etc simply add another wire, use a 4x4 box so 2 switches is easy and common. I worked on residential the other day, a newer home but the builder wire guy used a 2x4 and had to start out with a 15$ switch where 2 49 cent one would worked better and not made a cramped job.
A little extra wire is well worh a gob of automation if it will work. Same thing,,, well lets just use this gadget, its only 60$ and hooks to the phone or some **** and only needs 2 batteries in the unit and a couple in a remote, yuck. I charged another hour for pulling in another cable for 3 way, done deal, I wanted done instead of another trip to a fukkin store for some more **** in tamper proof packages.
Nothing beats surface or even some combination for being able to wire as you go but the key is getting SOME simple stock you will eventually use, find the custom later but have enough that you can reach it when needed.
A couple different times I spent a couple weeks off and on or one time came home in the evening and wired a circuit every night.
sberry
Banned
I have a steel building, the recepts are all run at ground level but I have a 1/2 pipe up the columes for lights and got a case of handi boxes for 50 cents a piece and another box of adapters, the switch box I used 4x4 and ran 2 14 colored wires up, alternated boxes, probably capped the wire in the last,,, just in case ha,,, but most of it never changed, wired a couple really minor changes, no real mystery in most of it. I tapped a couple outdoor light from generals, it was so easy and in the end not working 2 shifts, don't use most of it and is obsolete where it used to be 500 watts.
I use some so rarely that havnt bothered to change it to modern. Mine was built before a gfci requirement, I made a change the other day to include it but in the ceilings are simple recept, fixtured clamped up with plugs. This led is so much better, we got a couple things but I am on zone or area light with most fixtures on individual switches but its all old stuff and,,, its old, tire of repacing lamps fussing ballast etc.
I use some so rarely that havnt bothered to change it to modern. Mine was built before a gfci requirement, I made a change the other day to include it but in the ceilings are simple recept, fixtured clamped up with plugs. This led is so much better, we got a couple things but I am on zone or area light with most fixtures on individual switches but its all old stuff and,,, its old, tire of repacing lamps fussing ballast etc.
sberry
Banned
Not gonna buy 4$ lamps to fix an 8$ 500 watt fixture, gonna put the 4 towards a 40$ one I aint got to work on. I am using some up, someone gave me a couple few lamps the other day that will prolong the agony.
Ok, here is a code violation or 2, some of it built during Conan or Letterman when the tv got 2 channels. The gfci on its own circuit, a switched recept in one, a bandit needs changed and the upper recept is its own goes to my Aframe that has onboard gfci. Lower switches ceiling fixtures.
Ok, here is a code violation or 2, some of it built during Conan or Letterman when the tv got 2 channels. The gfci on its own circuit, a switched recept in one, a bandit needs changed and the upper recept is its own goes to my Aframe that has onboard gfci. Lower switches ceiling fixtures.
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