Woodworking 101--Tools and Tips

[turbowoodworker]

Fantastic. Looks like that might have involved an Incra jig set? Well done.

 

[Rockil]

Thanks yes it was done with a incra jig but i had to modify the jig they are ok from the factory but they need to have some adjustments done to them to make them perfect

 

[fartymarty]

Thanks yes it was done with a incra jig but i had to modify the jig they are ok from the factory but they need to have some adjustments done to them to make them perfect

Do tell, ....about the mods/adjustments. (please?)

 

[txlonghorn1989]

Thanks yes it was done with a incra jig but i had to modify the jig they are ok from the factory but they need to have some adjustments done to them to make them perfect

Great box Rock! Care to share those needed adjustments or are they already documented somewhere?

 

[turbowoodworker]

Searching “Incra double dovetails” will get you all you need to make those joints (if you have the Indra jig).

 

[fartymarty]

Searching “Incra double dovetails” will get you all you need to make those joints (if you have the Indra jig).

To be clear, I was not asking about how to make the double dovetails nor the wooden hinges. Just the mods to the jigs.
They (search results) don't mention mods or adjustments, they act as though the jig is perfect out of the box. Rockil mentioned mods...perhaps he was referring only to the wooden hinge jig? I don't have, nor do I desire one of those. I was thinking from his post that Rockil had some adjustments or mods to the original Incra jig itself?

As an example of what I'm looking for on a somewhat related INCRA product,
I found this guy's mods and tips pretty good for an Incra 5000 sled.

 

[turbowoodworker]

Gotcha. Sorry Marty. if you watch their videos or ever see them in person at a WW show, the salesfolks make them look so slick. I don't have one as I don't think I would use it much in the type of work I do.
I do have the Incra box joint jig which is great, but not foolproof.
I can see how some mods might be helpful.
Rick

 

[rlitman]

To be clear, I was not asking about how to make the double dovetails nor the wooden hinges. Just the mods to the jigs.
They (search results) don't mention mods or adjustments, they act as though the jig is perfect out of the box. Rockil mentioned mods...perhaps he was referring only to the wooden hinge jig? I don't have, nor do I desire one of those. I was thinking from his post that Rockil had some adjustments or mods to the original Incra jig itself?

As an example of what I'm looking for on a somewhat related INCRA product,
I found this guy's mods and tips pretty good for an Incra 5000 sled.

I've got the 5000 sled, though since my saw is a left tilt, I have everything on mine reversed.

I have to say that I'm not a fan of all of his mods (not totally disagreeing; just a "to each his own" sort of thing), but I still found it worth watching. I'll explain:

For my part, I like the fact that the 5000 acts more like a sliding table and less like a sled. I don't have anything against sleds, however, a sled only works when everything fits onto the sled. In this case, that includes the offcut. By creating a zero-clearance bridge that goes over the blade, he has created a bad situation where both the workpiece and offcut are being pushed unequally (just like using one hand on each side of the blade). That only works if the fence extends far enough to support the offcut as well (a proper sled), and his bridge just cannot do that.

As designed, the sliding table allows the offcut to just sit there next to the blade as soon as the workpiece is disconnected, since nothing is pushing on the side opposite the blade.

However, I think he's onto something. I may just create a zero-clearance end for my 5000. But I won't be having it cross the blade. I only want it to be zero-clearance tearout free on the sliding table side. Then again, I have my aluminum fence quite close to the blade, and have not had tearout issues. Maybe because I only use very sharp blades.

Also, his magnetic table spacer/support is a GREAT idea. I WILL be making one of those. Right now my offcut table is larger than the one that came with the 5000, but there's still some iron left uncovered on the left side (remember, my setup is backwards) that could be used to support work.

 

[fartymarty]

I've got the 5000 sled, though since my saw is a left tilt, I have everything on mine reversed.

Me too, although I thought long and hard about it because (perhaps a mistake on my part) I always felt more comfortable standing to the left of the blade. However standing to the right of it was easier of an adaptation than I was expecting it to be.

I have to say that I'm not a fan of all of his mods (not totally disagreeing; just a "to each his own" sort of thing), but I still found it worth watching. I'll explain:

For my part, I like the fact that the 5000 acts more like a sliding table and less like a sled. I don't have anything against sleds, however, a sled only works when everything fits onto the sled. In this case, that includes the off-cut. By creating a zero-clearance bridge that goes over the blade, he has created a bad situation where both the work piece and off cut are being pushed unequally (just like using one hand on each side of the blade). That only works if the fence extends far enough to support the off cut as well (a proper sled), and his bridge just cannot do that.

As designed, the sliding table allows the off cut to just sit there next to the blade as soon as the work piece is disconnected, since nothing is pushing on the side opposite the blade.

However, I think he's onto something. I may just create a zero-clearance end for my 5000. But I won't be having it cross the blade. I only want it to be zero-clearance tearout free on the sliding table side. Then again, I have my aluminum fence quite close to the blade, and have not had tearout issues. Maybe because I only use very sharp blades.

Also, his magnetic table spacer/support is a GREAT idea. I WILL be making one of those. Right now my offcut table is larger than the one that came with the 5000, but there's still some iron left uncovered on the left side (remember, my setup is backwards) that could be used to support work.

If I'm understanding you correctly, you are referring to the long off cut he showed to demonstrate the off cut lifting at the blade. The short cut off he made was supported by the cross blade support. I think that if the magnetic cutoff support is in place and that the off cut side is clamped to the cross blade support that it would work well and address the problem you mention.
Yes? No? It would be difficult clamp a wide panel of course on the cutoff side. I do think that I will make my crosscut support a little longer than he did, but it appears to work well with shorter cutoffs.

(He) Someone made a new cutoff side board that is only for cuts made with the blade tilted at 45 degrees. I thought it was Unemployed Redneck but I don't see it right now to link to perhaps I'll go back and watch again.

 

[fartymarty]

(He) Someone made a new cutoff side board that is only for cuts made with the blade tilted at 45 degrees. I thought it was Unemployed Redneck but I don't see it right now to link to perhaps I'll go back and watch again.

OK, I found it, turns out it was someone else, OTB (outside the box?) anyway I call him Windy since he likes to talk. But regardless, in his video linked below he shows his cutoff support for 45 degree bevel cuts. I'm not sure what he did with his original Incra laminate covered cutoff support though.

 

[ALinCarolina]

I've been on a homemade pizza making kick lately and decided I needed a pizza peel. Not a huge project, actually knocked it out in one day. Looking through my stash of lumber and found a smaller piece of Birdseye maple. Then found a skinny piece of left over mahogany and had a bunch of walnut scraps. Used it that night and it worked well.

 

[rlitman]

I've been on a homemade pizza making kick lately and decided I needed a pizza peel. Not a huge project, actually knocked it out in one day. Looking through my stash of lumber and found a smaller piece of Birdseye maple. Then found a skinny piece of left over mahogany and had a bunch of walnut scraps. Used it that night and it worked well.

Wow that looks fantastic!

 

[purplezr2]

I've been on a homemade pizza making kick lately and decided I needed a pizza peel. Not a huge project, actually knocked it out in one day. Looking through my stash of lumber and found a smaller piece of Birdseye maple. Then found a skinny piece of left over mahogany and had a bunch of walnut scraps. Used it that night and it worked well.

Looks good, just glue? biscuits/dominos?

 

[ALinCarolina]

No, just edge glue with Titebond3. If run through the jointer with straight edges it is stronger than the wood itself. I finished it with a product that is mineral oil with waxes.

 

[rlitman]

No, just edge glue with Titebond3. If run through the jointer with straight edges it is stronger than the wood itself. I finished it with a product that is mineral oil with waxes.

All good choices. Long grain joints work well with just glue, so long as the fitup is good, and Titebond III is the best glue I've ever used on wood. I've also seen that product, and the ingredients appear to be really good (I'm just too cheap to buy something like that so I'll make it myself). It looks to have a lot of beeswax, so a little heat from a hair dryer will speed up it's absorption.

 

[rrich1]

Great box rockil!

I made a sharpening station from plans at simplecove.com. easy enough project but I manage to make things take much longer than needed. I modeled it after my hand tool cabinrt that I built. Case is mahogany and the front and top pieces are tiger wood. I switched from the veritas honing guide to the lie Nielsen and needed to make stops for the correct angles. Pics of the box and my hand tool cabinet for reference. Some might remember it when I built it.

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[ALinCarolina]

All good choices. Long grain joints work well with just glue, so long as the fitup is good, and Titebond III is the best glue I've ever used on wood. I've also seen that product, and the ingredients appear to be really good (I'm just too cheap to buy something like that so I'll make it myself). It looks to have a lot of beeswax, so a little heat from a hair dryer will speed up it's absorption.

Good idea r. I should do that since I am a beekeeper and have wax. I'm sure it is not critical but what is your recipe? Does the mineral oil just dissolve the wax or do you have to heat it up with heat gun or double boiler?

 

[ALinCarolina]

Nice job on the sharpening station rrich. Those dovetails are tight like someone who knows what they are doing!

 

[rlitman]

Good idea r. I should do that since I am a beekeeper and have wax. I'm sure it is not critical but what is your recipe? Does the mineral oil just dissolve the wax or do you have to heat it up with heat gun or double boiler?

I've never found the two to mix. I'll soak the piece in plain mineral oil first and let it "dry" by soaking in completely. On harder woods where it soaks in slowly, mineral oil may be enough. If it soaks up to a dry surface too quickly, I'll heat up some beeswax in a mug in the microwave and brush it on. Then heat it directly on the surface with the hair dryer (or even a carefully used heat gun) and watch it soak in. Then let it cool, and try the mineral oil again. The wax will really slow down the oil uptake. It's merely about getting enough oil into the wood that no more soaks in. I don't want any volatile solvents. They're generally toxic, and time performs the same function at least as well.

 

[ALinCarolina]

Since r and I mentioned Titebond3 I thought this might be interesting to other woodworkers. I have a glass top table that I use for an assembly table. It is a glass top my wife found at a second hand store which I placed on an old SS restaurant table legs and added casters.

When I do glue ups I am good about placing pieces of waxed paper or similar under the glue lines to keep glue off my parallel clamps. My son is not (separate topic!). So when he did a glue up with Titebond3 there were drops of glue on the table. When he took a dull chisel to get them up, the glue took pieces of glass with it and left craters in the glass! Tough to see in photo, I held a piece of gray melamine under it to help show. So if anybody says that glue is not strong enough or adhesive enough you will know they don't know what they are talking about. We know it has no gap filling properties but that is a different issue.

 

[ez-duzit]

...Titebond3...
he took a dull chisel to get them up, the glue took pieces of glass with it...
So if anybody says that glue is not strong enough or adhesive enough you will know they don't know what they are talking about...

What your son did to that table has absolutely no bearing whatsoever on how Titebond will perform as a wood glue.

 

[fartymarty]

What your son did to that table has absolutely no bearing whatsoever on how Titebond will perform as a wood glue.

You could be correct about that, could be more about his skill with a dull chisel.....still it could be an interesting idea to investigate further.

 

[ALinCarolina]

What your son did to that table has absolutely no bearing whatsoever on how Titebond will perform as a wood glue.

I disagree. On further inquiry it was a dull, wide blade putty knife. Such attachment to a nonporous surface compared to wood at least to me was impressive. If it sticks this well to glass I think one could assume it will also stick to lignum vitae.

One of the things that prompted me to bring this up was discussions with other woodworkers in the past that were under the impression that epoxy is much stronger than Titebond or other similar type glues. Tests have been published that show there is very minimal difference between the two when used on wood and stressed tested. This is assuming well designed and oil-free tight joints

 

[dscable]

awesome intricate work!

 

[dscable]

very nice!

 

[dscable]

I disagree. On further inquiry it was a dull, wide blade putty knife. Such attachment to a nonporous surface compared to wood at least to me was impressive. If it sticks this well to glass I think one could assume it will also stick to lignum vitae.

One of the things that prompted me to bring this up was discussions with other woodworkers in the past that were under the impression that epoxy is much stronger than Titebond or other similar type glues. Tests have been published that show there is very minimal difference between the two when used on wood and stressed tested. This is assuming well designed and oil-free tight joints

interesting that it stuck to the glass, I wouldn't think that would be possible since it is nonporous.

 

[topcok88]

Well for the past few months my woodworking time has been directed toward finishing out about 830 sq ft of our basement. Finally getting to the trim work and accent wall stuff though.

The baseboards are finger joint pre-primed 1x4 and the wall at the fireplace is finger joint pre-primed shiplap. Looking forward to getting to the built-ins and floating walnut shelving on either side of the fire place.
I did use the domino on all the base boards and it was great to be able to do long runs and corners with no gaps and perfect alignment.

And I’m super happy I got rid of my old craftsman compound miter saw and got the KS120REB. I actually don’t dread miters anymore.

Not the usual fine furniture or jar944 level work but man it feels good to be making progress!


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[ALinCarolina]

Wow, dominoed baseboard! Impressive, that's going further than I typically do. I agree that miter saw is awesome. I still have my old green Ryobi CMS from 30 years ago and use it for mobile applications but when I built my new shop I got the Festool.

 

[purplezr2]

Wow, dominoed baseboard! Impressive, that's going further than I typically do. I agree that miter saw is awesome. I still have my old green Ryobi CMS from 30 years ago and use it for mobile applications but when I built my new shop I got the Festool.

Cool idea for whiteboards in the cabinet fronts.

 

[ALinCarolina]

Thanks Purple. I used metal ones so I can also stick things up with magnets also. It's a handy place to stick up a cutting list for instance. The rails and stiles are from left over pieces of the ash floor.

 

[jar944]

Well for the past few months my woodworking time has been directed toward finishing out about 830 sq ft of our basement. Finally getting to the trim work and accent wall stuff though.

The baseboards are finger joint pre-primed 1x4 and the wall at the fireplace is finger joint pre-primed shiplap. Looking forward to getting to the built-ins and floating walnut shelving on either side of the fire place.
I did use the domino on all the base boards and it was great to be able to do long runs and corners with no gaps and perfect alignment.

And I’m super happy I got rid of my old craftsman compound miter saw and got the KS120REB. I actually don’t dread miters anymore.

Not the usual fine furniture or jar944 level work but man it feels good to be making progress!


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Looks good.

Can't say i'd ever domino a corner, but I like them on **** joints.
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[jar944]

Made some tdl cabinet doors. The glazing bars were a royal pain to make (well the short 6" ones at least) the profile didn't make it any easier.

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[ez-duzit]

4--nice job.

 

[jar944]

I posted this up on ig, but I figured I'd add it here as well. One benefit of a shaper is being able to cope after sticking (suprisingly controversial topic) using a square backer for both ends.

I personally find its a good bit faster and honestly easier. The down side is needing a pair of coping cutters that will spin clockwise and counter clockwise. The upside of that is that if you build thick doors and use a 8pc passage door cutter head set ypu already have the heads to cut both directions.


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[purplezr2]

Finished this media console up.
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Two questions for you, would you have an interest in sharing the plans for this.

Do you glue your MDF centers in, or use a product like space balls?

 

[jar944]

Two questions for you, would you have an interest in sharing the plans for this.

Do you glue your MDF centers in, or use a product like space balls?

Id happy share plans, but they don't really exist. I just build everything off a sketch (and a spreadsheet if its complicated enough)

This was the design/build sketch. No spreadsheet needed as there weren't many parts
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As for mdf center panels they are about 1/16 undersized in length and width and glued in place

 

[ez-duzit]

4--that's the way I do it--just a freehand sketch on quadrille tablet.

 

[rrich1]

Slow going for me this last be month. The chest of drawers is all glued up after getting the dust frames made. Currently going through all the glue joints and making sure there isn't any epoxy left in them. I am waiting on my friend who is on the opposite schedule of me to get me some maple that he has for the drawers. Once I get those I can get the drawers made.

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[ez-duzit]

1--looking good.

 

[orangeblood]

rrich1 ....nice work.

design inspired by james krenov?