Toughest rattle can paint?

[Bennylava]

I'm hoping someone here can school me on the easy way to do tough paint. I don't really have the room to use a spray rig properly. At least not right now. The first thing that comes to mind when you think of durable paint would be something mixed with a hardener. But can you get "durable" in a rattle can? If so, what brand would you go with?

How is it normally done? Can you just use whatever paint you want, as long as you make sure that your rattle can clear has hardener? Or does the paint itself need a hardner as well? I'm something of a painting newb. I'm reminded of those cans that have a button on the bottom, and once you press it, the hardener flows into the can with the rest of the clear. Then you mix it well by shaking.

Any help here would be greatly appreciated. I have a few small items around the house that I need to paint. But it never fails that the typical rattle can paint just isn't tough enough. It usually ends up scratching too easily or flaking off at some point.

 

[isb cornbinder]

All of the information you will need is on the Rustoleum site
https://www.rustoleum.com/pages/find-a-product/
The BBS wheels and old engines were painted with Rustoleum almost 10 years ago.

 

[Don1357]

The quick answer is that you want an acrylic or an enamel, not a lacquer based paint. Technically you can spray paint anything and finish it with an acrylic based clear coat.

But when you say this:

I don't really have the room to use a spray rig properly.

What do you mean by this? Technically a can of spray paint is a self contained spray rig. When you say 'properly' are you thinking about the setup or that you don't have a spray booth to go all in? Because if you have a compressor and a spray gun, that's all it takes, you don't need to have a special place to spray it. It would be nice but if you are already going to spray without it, it makes no difference if you spray, with a gun, without it.

 

[555]

You can buy 2K paint in spray cans from several sources. Google 2K spray paint!

 

[mfewtrail]

I've painted stuff(mostly car wheels) w/ duplicolor and krylon rattle cans that has held up for 10-15 years outside in the sun 24/7.

 

[Retroman]

SEM is a great spray paint used for repainting auto trim. Different paints for metal and plastic.

 

[mc4life27]

I'm hoping someone here can school me on the easy way to do tough paint. I don't really have the room to use a spray rig properly. At least not right now. The first thing that comes to mind when you think of durable paint would be something mixed with a hardener. But can you get "durable" in a rattle can? If so, what brand would you go with?



How is it normally done? Can you just use whatever paint you want, as long as you make sure that your rattle can clear has hardener? Or does the paint itself need a hardner as well? I'm something of a painting newb. I'm reminded of those cans that have a button on the bottom, and once you press it, the hardener flows into the can with the rest of the clear. Then you mix it well by shaking.



Any help here would be greatly appreciated. I have a few small items around the house that I need to paint. But it never fails that the typical rattle can paint just isn't tough enough. It usually ends up scratching too easily or flaking off at some point.

Fist off I have used rattle can spray enamel and dripped heavy chucks of steal not intentionally and the base of my drill press did not chip or scratch. And the finish is holding up great.

The main things you have to watch out on is prep, make sure you read the can only second, their and fourth coat times and make sure you let the paint cure before reassembly. I have had real good luck with professional rust oleum enamel rattle can paints and their automotive line too. Make sure your surface is as clean as possible and free from any oils dirt grime, spray your primer, I like the self etching for metal and they also have a filler and primer that works well, get the primer where you are happy with it and remember to wear gloves and do not let any oils from your skin or anything else get in the primer. Also make sure it’s not too hot or too cold. Now when spraying color do lights coats and read the can for coat times. Sometimes you want to wait a couple of minutes other times you have a window of like 30-45 mins Or you have to wait 48 before the next coat. There’s a window that the paint will bond to its self and stick. Now I have sprayed 3-4 coats and waited like 3-4 days and sprayed another 2-3 coast and it turned out great but one thing to keep in mind once you get all your coast laid down and like the way everything looks let the parts dry and cure. The longer the better. Like I have waited months before reassembly and that worked out to be the best. The paint may feel dry to the touch and it very well could be dry but it has not harden yet and it will still chip easy. Also when all is said and the lint is cured put a nice coat of wax over your items it will help a to keep it looking great and help keep things to just slid off instead of chipping. Try taking a few items and read the cans and follow them to a t. Make sure your prep is good and the temp is right and the pint a fully mixed and be patient take your time and do not rush it. But from my experience enamels turn out great. Also SEM paint is awesome pint as well but it’s hard to find in my area and it’s expensive around here. But it is good stuff and really good for interior paint. But remember clean parts and clean prep. TAke your time and when it’s all done let the paint harden witch can take a week or two. The longer the better.


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[theoldwizard1]

the KEY to every paint job is preparation ! Clean it and then clean it again ! Primers are important*. For durable jobs, multiple coats are required. Follow the instruction closely for the time between coats. 3-5 coats is not unheard of.

Last make sure the paint is fully cured before putting the item to use. This can be 24-48 hours.


* Metal Primers - do you use a corrosion inhibitor (like old-fashioned Rustoleum primer or maybe zinc chromate for aluminum) or a "self-etching" primer ?

 

[CraigStu]

It's just a one part but I find the Rustoleum 'Hammered' rattle can over their self etching primer to be pretty tough. I start w/ a light coat and work my way heavier totaling 4 coats. I spray the next coat when the existing coat has gotten tacky. The heavier you can make the last coat or two gives a more pronounced 'hammered' look so laying the object down flat to reduce the chance of runs is best but not absolutely needed. It is quick drying so 4 coats may only take 10 minutes to apply.

 

[brandonsmash]

Quite honestly I use a lot of Rustoleum products but haven't found anything truly "tough" without a hardener. I just accept that I'll be touching up the product if it is subjected to impact or abrasion.

 

[sjvicker]

For grey and flat black I've been using steel-it lately and it's awesome. Not cheap but it's the best spraying paint I've ever worked with.

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[Denwood]

On the primer issue, for minor automotive work I always use a 2K epoxy primer first. You can buy this in a spray can which gives you about 4 days of pot life after activation. With a primer like that, the top coat matters less, but using a 2K top coat system will be hard to beat for durability. Anything I've done using the 2K epoxy primer has far surpassed any other coating system...

No guns to clean either

 

[csp]

Hammerite, hands down for me.

Not Rustoleum hammered finish either. The brand is Hammerite, made by the same company that makes Kilz.

You must be willing to give it a few days to full cure however. Once that happens good luck removing it if you have an area that needs to be stripped for welding or other reasons.

 

[karoc]

It's just a one part but I find the Rustoleum 'Hammered' rattle can over their self etching primer to be pretty tough. I start w/ a light coat and work my way heavier totaling 4 coats. I spray the next coat when the existing coat has gotten tacky. The heavier you can make the last coat or two gives a more pronounced 'hammered' look so laying the object down flat to reduce the chance of runs is best but not absolutely needed. It is quick drying so 4 coats may only take 10 minutes to apply.

I'm with Craig over the yrs I have painted lot of my woodworking machines and metal working machines with this paint. But like others have said prep is everything,right before I primer I would wipe down with lacquer thinner or acetone. Let set few minutes then spray on thin coat of primer, then when it looks dull go over it again with another coat,then again making sure that its thick enough that can't see through it. As directions says wait 48 hrs before more primer of your finish coat. Don't cut time short or you pay price,wait then wait some more. I would give it few days before your finish coat,and don't hold to close or you will see strips in your finish so make sure its not to thick to run but close it. The hammer paint will hide some flaws but not all.

 

[tarmy]

Refrigerator enamel...works great...

 

[yugami]

Last make sure the paint is fully cured before putting the item to use. This can be 24-48 hours.

Most rattle cans are so thinned down that I find pre warming the part flashes the solvent off a bit quicker and cures a little harder you should still wait the full 48. The gloss is a little duller though.

Keeping the part warm is key - gives the paint the energy to do the cross linking.

 

[nadogail]

I have used Rustoleum spray cans since 1960, it is still my rattle can of choice.

 

[ColoMid]

For important things I use Rustoleum paints followed by baking in an oven at 150 to 200°
for 1 1/2 to 2 hours. Turn off the heat and letting it cool down inside helps as well.
Once cooled the solvent smell is gone and the finish is tough and ready to use.
When a part is too big a corrugated cardboard box placed over it and 100W lamp(s)
for heat. I have done many machine tool restorations this way. Highly recommended.
RichD

 

[Showkey]

For important things I use Rustoleum paints followed by baking in an oven at 150 to 200°
for 1 1/2 to 2 hours. Turn off the heat and letting it cool down inside helps as well.
Once cooled the solvent smell is gone and the finish is tough and ready to use.
When a part is too big a corrugated cardboard box placed over it and 100W lamp(s)
for heat. I have done many machine tool restorations this way. Highly recommended.
RichD

This^^^^^^^^^^^

Then buy the paint qt and add hardener for even better flow out, quicker cure and Improved hardness.

The farm implement paints like Valspar, Old 55, Majic using the same technique ( qt and hardener with bake) have even better results.

 

[Bennylava]

Thanks to everyone for the replies!

the KEY to every paint job is preparation ! Clean it and then clean it again ! Primers are important*. For durable jobs, multiple coats are required. Follow the instruction closely for the time between coats. 3-5 coats is not unheard of.

Last make sure the paint is fully cured before putting the item to use. This can be 24-48 hours.

* Metal Primers - do you use a corrosion inhibitor (like old-fashioned Rustoleum primer or maybe zinc chromate for aluminum) or a "self-etching" primer ?

That's the problem I'm having, they don't seem very tough even though I'm following the instructions. I'm painting in the garage with the AC on, so the temperature shouldn't be a problem. I should've said I'm generally referring to plastics. I painted a heater to match my bathroom. Just a yellow, industrial looking Stanley heater from walmart. I have a large bathroom and it gets cold in there in the winter, so that little heater is a nice addition. The bathroom is all fixed up and has a color scheme, so I figured I'd paint the heater to match.

The paint on the heater is quite fragile. If you grab it too fast and hit it with your fingernail, you may scratch it or knock off a bit of paint. Then again you may not. I just wanted the paint to be a lot tougher. It's rustoleum brand. The same thing goes for a nice little computer case I did. That one has both metal and plastic. The paint just isn't tough, and it seems to come off easily.

I asked this question over at the autobody forums. I got a lot of replies and they all centered around one main point, which was that rattle can paint "Never really dries hard". That goes with my experience. I'd have to agree that even years later, the paint still seems somehow soft, and delicate. Pretty annoying after you spent several hours working on it. Granted this won't be the exact set of steps for every paint, but essentially you've got:

1. Sand the item, clean it all real good with an appropriate degreaser

2. Dry it off. Then let it dry on it's own in case you've got some water droplet somewhere that you can't see.

3. Spray your primer.

4. Allow the primer to dry for a good long time

5. Sand the primer

6. Clean all the sanding dust off. This will likely involve water, so now you wait for it to fully dry again

7. Spray paint coat #1, and wait

8. Spray coat #2, wait

9. Spray coat #3, wait

10. Maybe let it dry overnight, if the paint needs to be dry for the clear

12. Spray the clear with hardener, wait

13. Once fully cured, sand and polish the clear to get the best possible shine. This may be optional, as the clear may have been shiny and slick enough for your liking without needing to polish it. You're finally done, you can reassemble the item and use it.

That seems like a lot of time (and plenty of expense) to go through just to paint something properly. So I'm kind of annoyed that the paint is coming off after doing all that. Granted you do have to touch these things or lightly bump them, but I wanted tough paint that will stay forever on something that doesn't see any real abuse, like a bathroom heater and a computer case.

 

[Mirage]

If all you need is black, I really like VHT epoxy cans. oops looks like they have gloss white now too.

 

[Bennylava]

If all you need is black, I really like VHT epoxy cans. oops looks like they have gloss white now too.

I don't know a whole lot about various types of paints... is Epoxy known for being tougher?

Maybe there's something that's an all-in-one? Primer, and a glossy paint that's tough? Maybe one of the ones with hardener. I've seen the ratter cans that claim to be "paint and primer in one".

 

[mjchamp]

Blitz Black. You can get it at your local John Deere store

 

[Stuart in MN]

If all you need is black, I really like VHT epoxy cans. oops looks like they have gloss white now too.

If you have a motorcycle dealer or parts store nearby, another choice for black epoxy is PJ1. I've used it to paint motorcycle frames and it is very durable. https://pj1.com/product/fast-black-epoxy-paint/

 

[240sxguy]

If you're painting plastic you need proper prep solvents etc... I have a bunch of SEM products here and they never let me down. The prep is time consuming and annoying though.

 

[thr3squared]

For grey and flat black I've been using steel-it lately and it's awesome. Not cheap but it's the best spraying paint I've ever worked with.

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Another vote for Steel-IT!

 

[Bennylava]

If you're painting plastic you need proper prep solvents etc... I have a bunch of SEM products here and they never let me down. The prep is time consuming and annoying though.

Yeah I did some boat seats with SEM and it is excellent stuff.

 

[skippydoo]

Another vote for Steel-IT!

I bought 6 steel it spray bombs and painted a steel front axle for my kids race car. I am disappointed with how this paint is holding up. I scuffed the round tubing first and cleaned it off. Chips and no better chemical resistance .

 

[My Old Tools]

Gee, why not use a brush. You can add hardener and Penetrol so it flows out. You won't see brush marks with Penetrol added. You'll also get a thicker initial coat. Cost are much lower than a bunch of rattle cans, some of which won't work.

 

[Bennylava]

Gee, why not use a brush. You can add hardener and Penetrol so it flows out. You won't see brush marks with Penetrol added. You'll also get a thicker initial coat. Cost are much lower than a bunch of rattle cans, some of which won't work.

I'll give it a try! I've always thought those rattle cans were way to expensive. You can get to $50-$75 real easy buying those rattle cans. That's why I'm about to give up on them, cause they were expensive and the paint didn't seem to be very tough.

Any particular instructions you'd give on how to use the Penetrol? Any do's and don'ts?

 

[My Old Tools]

I use Rustoleum in quarts. I pour the paint I need in a smaller container, add Penetrol about 1:16 or so, I don't measure it, just eyeball, and add a dash of hardener. The actual amounts change a bit with weather, but you'll get the hang of it. It doesn't take a lot of hardener to get Rustoleum to setup hard overnight. If your paint doesn't flow out and fill the brush strokes like you want, add a bit more Penetrol. My latest is a 17" Delta drill press. I'm a crappy painter (ask my wife) and I impressed myself. I did use Rustoleum clean metal primer this time.

 

[fasteddie]

Plastic is a whole different animal it's problematic to get paints and glues to adhere to it. Rustoleum has a plastic primer in rattle can. Your problem is probably not so much the paint itself but problems adhering to the substrate. If you want to spray bulk paint with hardener without a spray rig, look into a 'Preval' sprayer. Not as good as a spray gun but it's an option. If you do use hardener , spray outdoors and use a serious respirator, it is bad stuff.

 

[Bennylava]

Plastic is a whole different animal it's problematic to get paints and glues to adhere to it. Your problem is probably not so much the paint itself but problems adhering to the substrate.

That's why I'm thinking I should've been using this:

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B007VTSRZ8/?tag=atomicindus08-20

Adhesion promoter. It softens the surface of the plastic so that the paint bonds better with it. Supposedly. Anyone every used adhesion promoter on plastics? If so, did you also need a primer? Doesn't seem like you would. Seems like your adhesion promoter would negate the need for primer.

 

[david3921]

I've used the Rustoleum plastic primer mentioned above with great success. I've used it on both my front and back bumpers before the final coat. This year will be the third winter here in Michigan with no problems. The can states that you can spray any type of paint over it. It goes on a pale white so it takes a few coats to cover the substrate if it's dark. It also takes a few to cover over if the top coat is dark, also. I ended up spraying Rustoleum aluminium (paint color) over them as it was a perfect match to the oem color. I let them dry for probably 3 days in a hot summer garage before putting them back on.

 

[Bennylava]

How about something that already had paint on it? Like an appliance you wanted to paint, but don't want to go to the trouble of stripping down. Just sand it, and spray primer on top of the old paint?

 

[rayra]

Sounds like the OP needs better surface prep.

 

[ezzzzzzz]

Another Hammerite fan here. I use it on underbody parts, rock sliders, etc. It's very durable and can be touched up easily. It beats powdercoating hands down.

 

[Ilikeike]

The 2 part 2K rattle can stuff is the most durable, you can spill gas on it and I won't just whipe off like other spray bomb paint.
I get it from Eastwoods.

for those not familiar it has a balder of hardener in the can that you puncture with the built in pin on the bottom of the can. at has a 24hr pot life, I usually get a bit longer.

 

[dreamingmuscle]

Buy what ever paint you want mix with hardness and spray it with this contraption.

https://www.homedepot.com/p/Preval-9-oz-Complete-Spray-Gun-267/202533738.

Glen

 

[Wheelingit]

The most durable rattle can paint that I have ever used is Rustoleum High Performance Enamel. It is rated for industrial use and dries quick, hard and glossy. The second best has been John Deere paint.