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2020 Garage Sale Thread

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pelletman

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I do like seeing the anvils. The anvil I picked up this year, my first, is also a trenton stamped 99 and weighed in on my scale 97. So far I have just wheeled off the rust and oiled it. Plan to mount it on a log I cut earlier this year when time allows.

What do you plan for yours?

I will either find a log or build a base out of 6 x 6 or 8 x 8. Probably clean it up a bit and make it pretty! I haven't weighed it yet but the damn this seems like more than 100#! Maybe chain it to whatever base I find. Maybe sell it if I find one I like better
 
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pelletman

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Couple things from yesterday. I gave my Craftsman block grinder to a friend of mine when I moved, and I got sad every time I have seen it. I have been picking them up since but none as nice as the one I had. Finally I found one to compete with it and complete me! $25

Also a parking meter head for $10 and 4 1950 Pontiac hubcaps for $20 and a free 18V Bosch hammer drill with weak batteries but in very nice condition
 

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jpickar

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made by klein for channellocks? thanks for info

No not made for Cahnnellocks. Klein and a few other Electrical companies made hard plastic handles that you heated in boiling water so they became flexible then you could slide them on a pair of lineman pliers. They were considered "insulated" grips. The thin rubber coverings that comes on Kleins or channellocks are not considered "insulated" grips.
 

b.well

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I got 6 gallons at $13.58 too, it was the limit I think

would you recommend it over electrolysis?

I did buy my first gallon of evapo-rust off amazon for $20 maybe 10 days before prime day....doh. but haven't used it yet.

I do have alot of respect for electrolysis. I have a setup ready to go in a 5gal homedepot bucket. I use 4 pieces of rebar spaced around. I have some jigs to hold things, maybe up to 10 pieces. Let it run about 24hrs usually.

I actually use electrolysis alot less since I got my bench grinder. Surface rust easily comes off with a wire wheel. For deeper rust the electrolysis definitely helps. Sometimes wire wheel, then electrolysis, then wire wheel again....lol. Good example recently was restoring a hand plane. WD40 and wire wheel alone didn't get it back to shiny metal. Electrolysis then wheel again.....much better!

FYI: Amazon deal is dead. back up to $20.
 

pelletman

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would you recommend it over electrolysis?

I did buy my first gallon of evapo-rust off amazon for $20 maybe 10 days before prime day....doh. but haven't used it yet.

I do have alot of respect for electrolysis. I have a setup ready to go in a 5gal homedepot bucket. I use 4 pieces of rebar spaced around. I have some jigs to hold things, maybe up to 10 pieces. Let it run about 24hrs usually.

I actually use electrolysis alot less since I got my bench grinder. Surface rust easily comes off with a wire wheel. For deeper rust the electrolysis definitely helps. Sometimes wire wheel, then electrolysis, then wire wheel again....lol. Good example recently was restoring a hand plane. WD40 and wire wheel alone didn't get it back to shiny metal. Electrolysis then wheel again.....much better!

FYI: Amazon deal is dead. back up to $20.

If it is a part that is sensitive and fragile I like it better. Don't have to worry about it eating the part away. I don't have that much electrolysis experience
 
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LesserSon

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I have never used an electrolysis setup, but I understand there is a limitation to “line of sight” / path of least resistance that makes it work best on the surfaces of solid objects.
EvapoRust is expensive, partly because of the volume of the container. Same company makes a concentrated product called Thermocure, which as far as I can determine does the same thing. If the dilution directions match the concentration of EvapoRust, then it is a better bargain. I have used them further diluted and also allowed them to evaporate into a tarry goo (they don’t work in that state), separately and combined, then reconstituted with water and used again. They work until they turn black. The dark residue left on steel has a sulfurous odor to me, perhaps suggesting the underlying chemistry.
I find in my unheated basement that a crockpot set on warm keeps them going, whereas they don’t work much at all below summer-daytime temperatures. The product(s) do especially well with interior surfaces that can’t be reached except by immersion. In a larger container, or with objects with problematic interior cavities, I think a small submersible pump, like those used in aquariums or garden ponds, would help, and likewise, small immersible heaters are available.
I have found EvapoRust at Tractor Supply, and ON ONE OCCASION Thermocure at Walmart (never since). Though the product itself is labelled nontoxic and biodegradeable, there ARE toxic contaminants and environmentaly unfriendly elements in what they remove from rusty tools. They remove cadmium, for instance. So not a surprise that CA, which seems to have the states’ most stringeant regulations, wouldn’t allow shipping it in.
But in most cases, I prefer mechanical rust removal - scraping then wire brushing (by hand or wire wheel). I rarely want to achieve a bright surface on steel, as it is a temporary condition that exposes it to further oxidation. My preference is to remove the crunchy red rust but leave as smooth and shiny a layer of black oxide as possible, which traps oil and thus protects the steel. I have repeatedly advocated this as the ideal, natural and functional state for bare steel, achievable without the use of toxic chemicals found in quick bluing products (which do not and can not leave as durable a surface - you may as well apply black magic marker). Yet I see most guys want to polish it away, then treat the bright surface with gun bluing or clear coat.
It’s a free country.
 
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b.well

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If it is a part that is sensitive and fragile I like it better. Don't have to worry about it eating the part away. I don't have that much electrolysis experience

Electrolysis is also advertised for delicate items; it does not damage the metal. So electrolysis and evapo-rust are the same in that way.

I can see evapo-rust being better if you want to clean one small part and can just pour some into a small cup. Electrolysis is a bit more involved to setup but quick as well once you get setup with it. My complication in the beginning was finding a manual battery charger. Automatic Battery chargers do not work and is all that is sold these days. Of course a power supply can be used too.

I have never used an electrolysis setup, but I understand there is a limitation to “line of sight” / path of least resistance that makes it work best on the surfaces of solid objects.
EvapoRust is expensive, partly because of the volume of the container. Same company makes a concentrated product called Thermocure, which as far as I can determine does the same thing. If the dilution directions match the concentration of EvapoRust, then it is a better bargain. I have used them further diluted and also allowed them to evaporate into a tarry goo (they don’t work in that state), separately and combined, then reconstituted with water and used again. They work until they turn black.
I find in my unheated basement that a crockpot set on warm keeps them going, whereas they don’t work much at all below summer-daytime temperatures. The product(s) do especially well with interior surfaces that can’t be reached except by immersion. I have found EvapoRust atTractor Supply, and ON ONE OCCASION Thermocure at Walmart (never since). Though the product itself is labelled nontoxic and biodegradeable, there ARE toxic contaminants and environmentaly unfriendly elements in what they remove from rusty tools. They remove cadmium, for instance. So not a surprise that CA, which seems to have the states’ most stringeant regulations, wouldn’t allow shipping it in.
In most cases, I prefer mechanical rust removal, scraping and wire brushing (by hand or wire wheel). I rarely want to achieve a bright surface on steel, as it is a temporary condition that exposes it to further oxidation. My preference is to remove the crunchy red rust but leave as smioth and shiny a layer of black oxide as possible, which traps oil and thus protects the steel. I have repeatedly advocated this as the ideal, natural and functional state for bare steel, achievable without the use of toxic chemicals found in quick bluing products (which do not and can not leave as durable a surface - you may as well apply black magic marker). Yet I see most guys want to polish it away, then treat the bright surface with gun blue or clear coat. It’s a free country.

I've seen electrolysis free up rust frozen parts. I agree logically it's line of sight. That's one reason I put rebar on four corners of my container.

I was recently working on an old rusted frozen usa c clamp I just wanted to put back into production. Couldn't get the screw to turn. WD40 and wire wheel first. Did a couple rounds of electrolysis. Not moving by hand. Heated it. Still no good. Gave it a few good wacks with a hammer and then it freed. Finally. Now moves smooth.

Most things I do not need to be shiny; just free of rust. I want Chrome shiny. Vise handles and slides too (put wax on those). I had an old rusty meat cleaver in the last elctrolysis bath; it came out black. stayed that way on the wheel. I wiped it down (alot of residue on things after using the wheel) and applied a bit of oil; still black, great.

I hadn't heard of Thermocure or knew that Evapo-Rust needs warm temps. Thanks for the tips.
 

Private Lugnutz

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Yet I see most guys want to polish it away, then treat the bright surface with gun bluing or clear coat.
Most guys? Really? You mean in real life? There are some, er, um, (searching for the most polite term...) overdoers here on GJ, too quick to resort to a grinder or wire wheel, and too heavy-handed when they do, for my liking/preference/aesthetic, I will emphasize, but my feeling is the exact opposite. My feeling just from being here and seeing pics and reading through the many and various "Cleaning and De-Rusting Vintage Tools" threads that have popped up over the last few years (some of them captured and linked in the Sticky Index) is that the majority of collectors just use a penetrating oil of choice (WD40, PB Blaster, etc) with a light abrasive of choice (Scotchbrite, 0000 steel wool) and/or a hand wire brush of choice if they can get away with it, Evaporust (or alternative - I actually much prefer Metal Rescue, but it's even more expensive) or e-tank only if badly needed. I don't see too many guys going to the grinder/wire wheel. Maybe I am wrong and just subconsciously averting my eyes to avoid the horror! :)
 

RTM

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I am on a FB page where every thread on how to clean a tool got posts of Belt Sanders, Disk Grinders, and Wire Wheels. After suggesting those are good for tools that are already trashed, and suggesting gentler alternatives getting harsher as they fail, I just avert my eyes from those threads. Keep my secrets to myself. Or here.
 

Old Radar

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RTM, your FB group are undoubtedly descended from people who used to mark their tools like this:

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Outlawmws

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Electrolysis is great but has some inherent limitations:
  • Iron/Steel only in he soup (Including the connecting "wire" use rebar tie wire...)
  • No plated parts or SS...
  • It WILL remove paint generally (this is either a good or bad thing...)
  • Sort of line of sight but can work to free things as well
  • If it is a joined item, with parts "insulated" with rust, you need a a wire to both parts (I had a pair of pliers that only got 1/2 done on the first go...)


Evaporust is costly, large items takes a LOT of juice (One trick is to bag the part and half fill the bag, seal it, and then put THAT in a bucket of water so the water "displaces" the Evaporust, so you don't need a full bucket... make sure you don't puncture the bag however, maybe double bag it?)

It also for the most part leaves paint alone. If saving most of the paint on something this is a plus for Evaporust over an E-tank.

All in all its not one is "better"; it's what works best for the application...
 

Private Lugnutz

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It also for the most part leaves paint alone. If saving most of the paint on something this is a plus for Evaporust over an E-tank.
It depends on the paint! Evaporust and Metal Rescue will loosen and dull any paint made with oxide pigments in no time, and it will strip it in an hour or so. A lot of old paint has oxide pigments in it, and it's making a resurgence in modern paint. And, it's not confined to red, brown, and yellow. Blue paint has magnesium and other oxides. Perhaps you've just been lucky so far.
 

BFBOB

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Electrolysis is a bit more involved to setup but quick as well once you get setup with it. My complication in the beginning was finding a manual battery charger. Automatic Battery chargers do not work and is all that is sold these days.

Yes, you can use an automatic - just keep a small 12V battery next to your E-tank. Hook up charger to tank electrodes, then briefly touch the battery to the charger leads. It will start the charger, which will then keep working until you disconnect it. An annoyance, but a pretty minor one!
 
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BFBOB

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Electrolysis is great but has some inherent limitations:
[*]Iron/Steel only in he soup (Including the connecting "wire" use rebar tie wire...)

Why? I have always used solid copper wire to suspend the rusty tools - 12 or 14 gauge - hasn't caused any problems I'm aware of - or am I just not paying close enough attention?:dunno:

I use Washing Soda (Na2CO3) for the electrolyte, in case that matters.
 
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LesserSon

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Most guys? Really? You mean in real life?
Maybe not “most guys” here. I’ll own up to a tendancy toward rhetorical generalization, and another one toward aesthetic evangelism. Thanks for coaxing me off the soapbox.
I consider a preference for dark plain steel to be rationally derived from the facts of our atmosphere and the low-cost, low-tech methods and materials available for maintaining such a finish.
 

mikeinri

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I am on a FB page where every thread on how to clean a tool got posts of Belt Sanders, Disk Grinders, and Wire Wheels. After suggesting those are good for tools that are already trashed, and suggesting gentler alternatives getting harsher as they fail, I just avert my eyes from those threads. Keep my secrets to myself. Or here.

Um, you left out sandblasting...



RTM, your FB group are undoubtedly descended from people who used to mark their tools like this:

attachment.php

Is that really an intentional marking, or maybe the tool was abused during use? If you have a while set like that, he obviously felt the need to make sure no one wanted to steal his tools...

Mike
 

b.well

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Originally Posted by Outlawmws View Post
Electrolysis is great but has some inherent limitations:[*]Iron/Steel only in he soup (Including the connecting "wire" use rebar tie wire...)

Why? I have always used solid copper wire to suspend the rusty tools - 12 or 14 gauge - hasn't caused any problems I'm aware of - or am I just not paying close enough attention?:dunno:

I use Washing Soda (Na2CO3) for the electrolyte, in case that matters.

My connecting wire is copper. I've put chrome sockets and wrenches in the soup without issue. Definitely NO Stainless Steel.
 

Private Lugnutz

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Between the mist and my mask fogging up my glasses, I couldn't see a danged thing at the flea market this morning, but I managed to come home with my kind of haul (Lugz 2020_49).

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I didn't uncoil the rope, which is genuine 1" three-strand manila, but I am guessing at least enough for three WWII Jeep tow ropes. Allen hex wrench holder. Botnick in a size I don't have. RIDGID screw extractors. The little leatherette CORNWELL TOOLS case has a sharpening stone in it. Long C pipe cutter. H.D. SMITH extra heavy duty machinists' screwdriver. Complete 1921 Indestro No. 19 set. A wartime Barcalo-Buffalo 28S wrench. And a Victor multi wrench.

More photos and details on various Vintage Board threads later.

P.S. - Even if I had gotten skunked it would've been a banner day, because I ran into Jack, an oldtimer who used to sell antique and vintage tools at my Wednesday flea market in Lakewood, which, as some of you may recall, has now been flattened and landscaped for a condominium complex. He told me he now sells at New Egypt on Wednesdays. New Egypt is one of the oldest flea markets in NJ. Tiny but legendary. There are a few dozen shacks there that vendors built over time. Each shack has a table or two in front of it. The vendors would lock their stuff up in the shacks, and sell off the tables and inside the shack. Going back seventy years, resembling a hobo camp and an arts colony combined, but dilapidated and abandoned. Apparently alot of the sellers from Lakewood have migrated there.
 

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Smokeshow69

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Between the mist and my mask fogging up my glasses, I couldn't see a danged thing at the flea market this morning, but I managed to come home with my kind of haul (Lugz 2020_49).

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I didn't uncoil the rope, which is genuine 1" three-strand manila, but I am guessing at least enough for three WWII Jeep tow ropes. Allen hex wrench holder. Botnick in a size I don't have. RIDGID screw extractors. The little leatherette CORNWELL TOOLS case has a sharpening stone in it. Long C pipe cutter. H.D. SMITH extra heavy duty machinists' screwdriver. Complete 1921 Indestro No. 19 set. A wartime Barcalo-Buffalo 28S wrench. And a Victor multi wrench.

More photos and details on various Vintage Board threads later.

P.S. - Even if I had gotten skunked it would've been a banner day, because I ran into Jack, an oldtimer who used to sell antique and vintage tools at my Wednesday flea market in Lakewood, which, as some of you may recall, has now been flattened and landscaped for a condominium complex. He told me he now sells at New Egypt on Wednesdays. New Egypt is one of the oldest flea markets in NJ. Tiny but legendary. There are a few dozen shacks there that vendors built over time. Each shack has a table or two in front of it. The vendors would lock their stuff up in the shacks, and sell off the tables and inside the shack. Going back seventy years, resembling a hobo camp and an arts colony combined, but dilapidated and abandoned. Apparently alot of the sellers from Lakewood have migrated there.



That rope is the find of the day! You can’t really fake that kind of patina per se... also running into that old seller sure will pay off!


Sent from my iPhone using The Garage Journal mobile app
 

Old Radar

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Is that really an intentional marking, or maybe the tool was abused during use? If you have a while set like that, he obviously felt the need to make sure no one wanted to steal his tools...

Mike

Almost all his Snap-on was marked more or less like that. I guess no one wanted to steal them and it kept me from buying any.
 

mikeinri

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I'm going to go out on a limb and guess that he'd had stuff stolen before, maybe even with his name on them. Or, he didn't have the proper tools to etch his initials carefully?

Mike
 

Private Lugnutz

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Here's that Allen key rack and the RIDGID pipe extractors from this morning.
 

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Private Lugnutz

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And some teasers for more photos on Mystery Vice Grips, Cornwell, H.D. Smith, and DOE Wrench threads.
 

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BFBOB

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And speaking of Evapo-Rust, to whomever sent me a quart of the stuff,
THANK YOU!
It's already being put to good use, cleaning up some old Thorsen sockets.

I guess Secret xmas came early this year:headscrat
 

Private Lugnutz

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What is the mystery? Whether they were actually made BY or FOR Botnick Motor Corporation (which seems to have ended the 20th century as a Chevrolet dealership)?
"Mystery Vice Grips" was the name of Ryan's thread, LS. He was not familiar with BMC at the time. They were indeed made by the Botnick Chevy dealership, initially, just for their own shop, because the old man couldn't find a vise grip that was adjustable by precise size with jaws that stayed squared-up to the workpiece. So he designed and made his own! They sold them by hand and later distributors. More info in Ryan's thread.

BTW, just posted cleaned up pics of this Indestro No. 19 set in the Indestro thread...
 

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Outlawmws

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Why? I have always used solid copper wire to suspend the rusty tools - 12 or 14 gauge - hasn't caused any problems I'm aware of - or am I just not paying close enough attention?:dunno:

I use Washing Soda (Na2CO3) for the electrolyte, in case that matters.

Originally Posted by Outlawmws View Post
Electrolysis is great but has some inherent limitations:[*]Iron/Steel only in he soup (Including the connecting "wire" use rebar tie wire...)



My connecting wire is copper. I've put chrome sockets and wrenches in the soup without issue. Definitely NO Stainless Steel.

Electrolysis is a nice safe process for iron and steel. If you introduce copper, chrome, or other heavy metals you are now adding those heavy metals to the process and therefor to the waste products. go ask a plating shop what EPA cleanup costs...

I don't want my yard to be a superfund site. With just the iron and steel you can safely pour the iron oxide rich solution in to iron loving plants for watering...
 
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