Farmall450
Well-known member
I'm a big fan of the Streamlight Stylus pro. No hi/low, but damn to they hold up. If I don't lose them (like the one before my current one) they keep running long after the paint wears off.
Anyone who uses AA or AAA batteries really needs to wake up and discover Eneloop or GP ReCyko rechargeable batteries. I've been using both of them for 10 years and never have had to throw a single one out. The GP ReCykos really are a sleeper because they put up numbers very close to the Eneloops yet are about half the cost. Why throw your hard earned money away.![]()
I don't necessarily prefer the aluminum over the polymer light. They're very comparable and you're right that polymer lights are very durable and don't seem to show wear like aluminum. The light I keep in my shop is an old G2 with a custom Malakoff drop in. The only drawback is that the polymer does not conduct heat well. In really high output lights, you want to get as much heat away from the head as possible and the extra conduction and convection from the aluminum body is not trivial. In the case of the g2x pro, the output isn't so great that you're at risk of frying the led. You might experience a slight reduction in output once the head gets hot compared to the aluminum light but like not noticeable.Thank you all for the fantastic replies -- way better info than I hoped for. Sounds like a surefire is in my future.
GeoBruin -- Why do you like the 6PX aluminum series over the G2X polymer series? I usually don't buy plastic tools, but a polymer could have the potential to be quite tough to break depending on what they used and it saves on weight.
Also, I'm wary of durability problems with 'clicky' switches -- is this a failure point for these lights?
Last question -- what do you think about the Surefire Titan Plus? I like the idea of standard AAA batteries as I always have a bunch on hand (disposable Lithiums for electronics mostly) -- I use a flashlight a fair amount, but I never 'expect' to, so it's nice to not worry about charging or specialty batteries.

I've been wondering if the rechargeables are worth it. Not sure that the 2 AAAs every 2 months or so will break me (more often in the winter).
I swear, you guys cost me more money than my ex-wife! I've been perfectly happy with my $8 HF special until I suddenly found out that I 'need' a $100 small flashlight.
Ahh thank you, their filtering was weird for me last night. After posting I was browsing some more since it had been a while and was finding that clicking on different subcategories of lights would bring up lights that it wasn't showing me when filtering after clicking on the flashlight major category. Or heck maybe it could just have been me up late that was missing something. Haha
If you're going to take recommendations in the SF price range about the only thing I could possibly add to GeoBruin's excellent post is to check out Modlite Systems. They've been making lights that the past couple years have been gaining favor over even Surefire. Worth checking out at least even if for no other reason than to see what else is out there.
Lots of p60 drop ins out there. The G2 has a little less room than an aluminum p60 host (like a surefire 6P) so there might be a small gap between the head and the shoulder of the body.This thread reminded me to find my Sure Fire as I couldn't find it after a move. I started my search for the last couple of days since I read the post and I Just found it. I have a G2. Any reasonable upgrades for this little guy? Thanks
Another USA made option is Elzetta, I have a few. But they are not a cheap alternative.
I agree if you're talking about alkaline batteries - but lithium primaries (like Energizer Ultimate Lithium) are very compelling choices for a variety of reasons.Anyone who uses AA or AAA batteries really needs to wake up and discover Eneloop or GP ReCyko rechargeable batteries. I've been using both of them for 10 years and never have had to throw a single one out. The GP ReCykos really are a sleeper because they put up numbers very close to the Eneloops yet are about half the cost. Why throw your hard earned money away.![]()
They did used to use the m60 modules (and could accept the m61 modules with a lens/gasket kit) but the newer versions have moved away from that and their heads are integrated units now.Those are really nice, I've never owned one but they have a great following. Not sure if they still do but in the beginning they were using Malkoff modules for their lights. Which ones do you have.
Lots of p60 drop ins out there. The G2 has a little less room than an aluminum p60 host (like a surefire 6P) so there might be a small gap between the head and the shoulder of the body.
The G2 can't dissapate as much heat as an aluminum light so I would avoid any super high output options and try to find something with plenty of thermal mass in the Dropin itself.
My personal recommendation would be something from Malkoff. The modules are machined from brass which gives them some mass of their own. They're also not overdrive so you don't have to really worry about heat anyway. The M61 modules are single mode only but they do offer the m361 variants that have modes built in. I'm not a huge fan of the way the chip handles mode switching but it's the only option for multi-mode dropins from Malkoff. They are available from Malkoff's site or Illumn.
There are some other great drop in options but I can't guarantee the fit with the G2. Nailbender's drop-ins from Customlites or Vinh Nguyen's stuff from Sky Lumen. Both offer more UI options than Malkoff and should fit with some possible trimming of the springs.
The Malkoff bodies accept 18mm li-ion cells and the m61 dropins will run regulated on a single li-ion for a long time before they begin to taper off. That's my preferred configuration and it is how I run all of mine. The Surefires will run 16mm li ion cells but I don't think they'll be fully regulated. Might be worth the trade off for increased overall runtime and convenience but maybe not. Again, OP simply stated "standard" batteries so we don't know whether he is willing to go the rechargeable route.GeoBruin,
maybe i missed something, but the lights you recommended only take primaries, right?
if it's a flashlight you'd use with any regularity (sounds like the case for OP), why not rechargeable lithium ion?
if you like 18650s or 21700s, what are your favorite lights that take those?
also, thoughts on zebralight?
i'm in love with my sc64w hi (i always have it in my pocket) and h600w mk4 headlamp, but i'm always on the lookout for something i'd like even more.
one button UIs are dogshit, but it could be a lot worse. at least it's pretty flexible, and i can get to the modes i want quickly. also, i love having sub-lumen modes.
Anyone who uses AA or AAA batteries really needs to wake up and discover Eneloop or GP ReCyko rechargeable batteries. I've been using both of them for 10 years and never have had to throw a single one out. The GP ReCykos really are a sleeper because they put up numbers very close to the Eneloops yet are about half the cost. Why throw your hard earned money away.![]()
I agree if you're talking about alkaline batteries - but lithium primaries (like Energizer Ultimate Lithium) are very compelling choices for a variety of reasons.
1) 20 Year guaranteed shelf life. So you could have a flashlight stashed away in a drawer for 20 years, and it will be pretty much guaranteed to work.
2) Very high capacity (1200 mAh for AAA, 3500 mAh for AA), which means long run time
3) Very low internal resistance, which means the cells can drive a lot of current while still retaining their capacity.
My personal favorite for rechargeable AA/AAA batteries is Ikea Ladda. Exactly the same as Eneloop Pros but 6.99/4pk. Even if you don't have an Ikea nearby they still come out cheaper than almost any other battery including shipping.
Energizer Ultimate Lithium are 3,000 mah at 1.5 volts (4.5 watt hours). A rechargeable 32650 (D size) lithium ion is 6,000 mah at 3.7 volts (22.2 watt hours), they can withstand significant current draw, and they're rechargeable. The capacity is so high the self discharge would be negligible over time. I just think the use cases for a D size primary are too few.I wonder if it would be practical for the industry to introduce and sell a D size cell that is lithium primary-seems like it could have power,shelf life and leak freedom that would blow away the old alkalines---
if AA (ultimate Lithium) is 3500 mAh,what would the mAh for a decent alkaline D cell be?
m(watt)h as a measure of power delivered instead of mAh? (takes account if voltage differs)