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MDchanic

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Joined
Dec 2, 2017
Messages
68
Location
Hudson Valley, NY
Hey, Don — Fantastic work!

I've got an almost identical unit (with a replacement motor, unfortunately), so it's nice to see how you're cleaning it up.

In case you're interested, I've ordered a set of gaskets and seal rings from a custom maker (I'm waiting to receive them), and he can make up a set for you from my specifications. I was going to order extras to sell to others, but the price was a bit higher than I'd expected, so I just bought enough for my unit.

Keep posting those photos! I love seeing how these look cleaned up.

- Eric

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Joined
Sep 27, 2018
Messages
6
Location
Iowa
Here is my 1947 Erie Meter Systems compressor. It has a 1/2 hp Peerless motor. Still works like a charm. I think it's a 30 gallon tank.
 

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MDchanic

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Joined
Dec 2, 2017
Messages
68
Location
Hudson Valley, NY
Hi Don — One other thing:

I see from your photos that the original motor on your USACo compressor is a Century repulsion-start/induction-run 1/2 HP, 1,460 RPM, model RS1½.

Would it be possible for you to measure the diameter of the motor pulley?
It looks like 3" to me, but if I know just what it is, I can figure out how fast the pump is supposed to run.

Thanks,

- Eric
 

diesel_dan

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Joined
Dec 10, 2018
Messages
2,233
Location
Foothills, CA
Update on the no-data Quincy 325 in post #991
Completely forgot about the auction closing tonight at 7:28PM.
Missed it by about 15 minutes, it sold for $57.50.

Bummer - I would have paid freight just to put on top of my: never-will-run-in-my-lifetime Curtis E-57 80 Gal vert (it just isn't worth fixing it), compressor...

Got a nice 5 HP Baldor motor ready for that deal to come along....

Oh well...:(
 

LWB

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Joined
Oct 6, 2019
Messages
1,228
Location
ON, Canada
Picked this up the other day and started dismantling it looking for clues.

From what I can find they were made from 1928 - 1950 under SSEC. The ends appear to be brass that is brazed?? Any additional info would be appreciated.
 

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pickinpop

New member
Joined
Jan 21, 2021
Messages
1
Location
livingston la
cleaning up and painting my chamion 2 stage pump i bought recently, what type paint do yall normally use on the jug, i was thinking VHT engine paint, going with a bright red
 

May Pop

Well-known member
Joined
Aug 7, 2005
Messages
783
Location
Lake in the hills Il.
I will add to the last question.Agree with engine paint or any quality enamel.
Does anyone know of a color code or rattle can to match Speedair green?

Thanks
Ron
 
Joined
Mar 4, 2013
Messages
24
I went through every page on this thread and enjoyed looking at the vintage compressors.

I picked up a 45 year old Kellogg 321TX pump is two stage rated up to 8.8 CFM. With the pulleys I have it is about 8.2 CFM.
New bearings in the 2 HP motor. Rebuilt the valves and new unloader valve.
New check valve. Now it works well. I did a home Hydro Pressure test to 310 psi.

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Before
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After
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Head Before after head to make a tool to get the valves out.
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Cylinders/pistons look great

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MDchanic

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Joined
Dec 2, 2017
Messages
68
Location
Hudson Valley, NY
Anyone Want to Sell a Tank?

Finally got a warm enough day to pressure test the tank of the 1928 US Air Compressor Co Model HA.

Unfortunately, the result was less than good.

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So, my question is, does anyone have or know of a 14x48" tank for sale?
One that actually holds air.

Alternatively, is anyone aware of people welding or brazing these?
I would think that even a top-notch welder would shy away from this, if only for liability reasons, but if anybody has had this done, I'd be interested to hear about it.

Thanks,

- Eric
 

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American Locomotive

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Joined
Jan 8, 2017
Messages
10,958
Location
Rhode Island
Tank is done, sorry. Nobody is going to weld or braze it, because the rest of the metal is going to be too thin.

However, 100 pound propane tanks are just about that size, and are pretty cheap.
 

diesel_dan

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Joined
Dec 10, 2018
Messages
2,233
Location
Foothills, CA
Tank is done, sorry. Nobody is going to weld or braze it, because the rest of the metal is going to be too thin.

However, 100 pound propane tanks are just about that size, and are pretty cheap.

^^^ He has you covered on this, the tank is toast and I like the idea of going to a commonly available one... Spend your time on the rest of it - tanks, esp. older ones, are a very real risk...
 

don long

Well-known member
Joined
Mar 31, 2012
Messages
8,845
Location
southern california
Hey, Don — Fantastic work!

I've got an almost identical unit (with a replacement motor, unfortunately), so it's nice to see how you're cleaning it up.

In case you're interested, I've ordered a set of gaskets and seal rings from a custom maker (I'm waiting to receive them), and he can make up a set for you from my specifications. I was going to order extras to sell to others, but the price was a bit higher than I'd expected, so I just bought enough for my unit.

Keep posting those photos! I love seeing how these look cleaned up.

- Eric

attachment.php

Mine is getting closer to going back into my 30's garage. I'm waiting on the small pulley to get back from the chrome shop and I'll be mounting casters on the runners to make moving it around easier.

51057544582_8c65d7006b_c.jpg2021-03-18 13.21.35 by Ann Long, on Flickr

51056738423_b729f2eb49_c.jpg2021-03-18 13.21.23 by Ann Long, on Flickr

And the motor up close

51057546487_56664ff7c8_c.jpg2021-03-18 13.21.19 by Ann Long, on Flickr
 

MDchanic

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Joined
Dec 2, 2017
Messages
68
Location
Hudson Valley, NY
Nobody is going to weld or braze it, because the rest of the metal is going to be too thin.

But it didn't fail through the metal, it failed through the seam.

I don't know enough about how these are constructed, myself, but it seems it may (or may not) be possible to essentially reseal the seam, IF there is enough metal there, unlike in cases where a tank fails due to a rust pinhole, where the entire area is probably shot through with similar damage.

As far as similar tanks, sure, but they have to be exactly 14" in diameter, or the brackets won't fit around them. That's why I'm afraid I may need to buy another old tank, rather than a new one.

- Eric
 

dkmc

Well-known member
Joined
Jan 20, 2008
Messages
950
Location
NYS--Upstate in the corn fields
Don, Man you just don't know when to quit! I mean that as an utmost complement. If there's ever a vintage air compressor show competition, YOURS gets my vote for best-of-show. A lot of time and effort went into that compressor and it shows.

:bowdown:
 

MDchanic

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Joined
Dec 2, 2017
Messages
68
Location
Hudson Valley, NY
It don't matter, its been stressed. Its for display.

Well, that's my assumption as well, but I thought it was worth getting a few opinions.

Unless I can find another tank, I'll just end up plumbing the pump into my air system and using the tank on my large compressor for it if I ever want to run it.

- Eric
 
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wrenchguy

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Sep 22, 2011
Messages
4,698
Location
NW Indiana
You could prolly have a certified tank made to your specs (less rivets) for less than what you think. Your unit deserves it and everyone would agree 1000%. Those are super cool looking units.
 

American Locomotive

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Jan 8, 2017
Messages
10,958
Location
Rhode Island
But it didn't fail through the metal, it failed through the seam.
It's all the same. Basically no one is going to take the risk of welding the tank. If you want to cut it open and re-weld it - you could try, but I wouldn't put any more than 10 PSI in it.

A 100 gallon propane tank is usually around 14x48, and can be had for around $150-250 new. Just take a bracket and go size it up and see if it fits around. Even if it's a bit bigger - like 14.5" - you'd be able to make it work.
 

larry4406

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Joined
Jan 27, 2006
Messages
19,259
Location
Northern Virginia
Don Long - that compressor is beautiful! The motor's belt tension adjust mechanism on glide tubes with center screw adjustor is a work of art!
 

don long

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Mar 31, 2012
Messages
8,845
Location
southern california
Thanks Larry.
That motor adjuster is a stock item on those old compressors.
I finally found the time to finish the motor and get it mounted. I think it turned out pretty good even the tag gleaned up ok.

51067459557_b179008da4_c.jpg2021-03-23 16.04.06 by Ann Long, on Flickr

The back side with a flash

51066664648_0e557149c7_c.jpg2021-03-23 16.19.10 by Ann Long, on Flickr

The compressor is now in it's own spot in my 30's garage

50998157195_f375e1e745_c.jpg2021-03-23 16.20.51 by Ann Long, on Flickr

51067420592_2a4ca636d2_c.jpg2021-03-23 16.21.41 by Ann Long, on Flickr

waiting for the motor pulley to be chromed and a belt mounted.

.
 

don long

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Joined
Mar 31, 2012
Messages
8,845
Location
southern california
Thank you gentlemen
It's nice to have it done finally. I got the compressor back in 2011 and have been looking at it ever since wishing it were restored and it is finally done enough to put it on display while I wait for the motor pulley to come back from the plater.
 

Canuckwoods

Member
Joined
Nov 17, 2020
Messages
7
Location
ON
2 Out of 3 are Vintage
The last one might interest the Quincy fans, out there. :)
Primary Compressor- Windy Worthy
Worthington 20 H.P. 1940's-ish, converted from an engine drive unit in 1984.
The tanks are 60 & 80 gallon Saylor-Beall rejects.
SB cuts out the tag on their reject tanks with a torch to stop
people from reclaiming them.:bounce:
I welded a piece of 1/4" flatstock to plug the holes.
This unit has run almost everyday for the past 25+ years with very little problems. Pump size is 6 X 3-1/2 X 4" Stroke.
Forced oil and still holds around 30 psi.
Worthington.jpg


Backup Compressor-
Ingersoll Rand Type 30 5 H.P.
Date on tank says 1968, and its never been painted, just factory primer.
Has a watercooled after cooler thats not currently hooked up to
a water source.
IR.jpg


Compressor #3-
Located in another building, but plumbed into the main system.
Quincy QT-5 5 H.P.
Special prototype breathable air unit.
We have never used the breathable filter unit,
just run it as a standard air compressor. Only 237 hours on this one.
And yes, that is a real tag, no computer magic here. :beer:
QuincyQT5.jpg

Tag.jpg

Yes, I know this is an old post BUT I need to know what the unit between the air filter and air inlet is on the Ingersoll Rand I have one on an IR type 30 that I am restoring. Does it need to stay what does it do how do you adjust it yada yada yada
here is mine from before the restoration started.
compressor_-_Copy.JPG

Thanks
 
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1FordTech1

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Joined
Sep 18, 2010
Messages
64
Location
Lawton Oklahoma
Picked up this Emglo GC a couple weeks ago. Cleaned up nice and works great. I couldnt get an Emglo decal so I used a Jenny who bought out Emglo about 20 years ago. I also found nice industrial cart to move it around the garage on and painted it to match. I found you can still order a belt guard and added that to it for safety. It came painted with warning labels affixed. I had to modify it some because Jenny reversed the configuration on theirs with the pump and motor on opposite sides. It worked out great and makes a fine compressor for my small garage needs. Im retired now and just tinker these days.
FYTokO.jpg

vEoPKK.jpg
 

wrenchguy

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Joined
Sep 22, 2011
Messages
4,698
Location
NW Indiana
Hobart Bros. picked at sale Wednesday. Anyone know how to date these?
 

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islander50

Member
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Apr 16, 2021
Messages
6
Location
Michigan
Here's one I picked up a couple months ago.. its a Franklin ..
 

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MacMcMacmac

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Oct 21, 2014
Messages
1,584
Location
canada
Yes, I know this is an old post BUT I need to know what the unit between the air filter and air inlet is on the Ingersoll Rand I have one on an IR type 30 that I am restoring. Does it need to stay what does it do how do you adjust it yada yada yada
here is mine from before the restoration started.
compressor_-_Copy.JPG

Thanks

It looks like a suction unloader which just cuts off the intake from the ambient air. They can be a problem if your rings are worn since it encourages oil to come up from the case and into the cylinder. once the pump starts drawing a vacuum inside itself. If you aren't running constant run, you don't need it. The line you are pointing to is the unloader line which blows down the pump and discharge line at shutdown. The line going to the crankcase near the oil seal is the crankcase vent.
 

bbbarracuda

Well-known member
Joined
Jun 1, 2008
Messages
709
it's not a compressor, but saw this at a local online auction. Says its an Army surplus oxygen tank repurposed as a portable air tank. Scares me. :dunno:
 

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diesel_dan

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Dec 10, 2018
Messages
2,233
Location
Foothills, CA
I have a new vintage air compressor to run my sand blasting container

2021-04-28 13.40.40 by Ann Long, on Flickr

2021-04-28 13.40.52 by Ann Long, on Flickr

It runs on an old flathead V8 motor with special heads that house 2 spark plugs and 2 compression cylinders on each side of the motor

2021-04-28 13.41.12 by Ann Long, on Flickr

.

That is something that qualifies for "the Thread of Awesome", just in my humble opinion - it is waaaay cool and thanks for sharing :beer:
 

don long

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Joined
Mar 31, 2012
Messages
8,845
Location
southern california
Thanks Dan
I rolled up on it one morning on my way to a swap meet. It had popped off the ball of the truck that was towing it to the swap meet. It was laying on its side still attached by the safety chain. After about a 1/2 hour of fighting it we managed to get it back up on her tires the guy started it up for me and we made a deal right there on the street. He brought it over after the meet . it pumps 200 lbs of constant pressure and runs like a clock.
I'll be doing the body work and putting a paint job on it this summer
 
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