The VISES of Garage Journal

[Andy FitzGibbon]

I wonder how much different it is than a Starrett 926.

This is my Starrett 926.

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[va.grouseman]

I want a 926 too.---Would someone Go-Fund-Me a 926?---As Outlaw says, it never hurts to ask.

 

[rusty65]

Outlaw: yes there are three 1in Colton type vises. I’ve started to grow a soft spot for them.


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[12vx2]

The Starrett 626 is not mine, it is in a shop at one of the sites I work. There are quite a few large vises of all sorts.

 

[Smitty]

I found an old school Wilton C3 and just finished cleaning it up. The vise is dated 12/30/65 and cleaned up pretty well after stripping off a secondary paint job. I added a fresh set of choppers and a swivel base. I really like these old school C3’s.


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[chrisnazzy]

In the spirit of the holiday season I thought I'd share some pics of a couple vises I fixed up as gifts this year.

The first is a Wilton 745 Mechanics Vise I picked up in February. It is dated March 1983 and was in really good shape under a full black spray bomb.
This is the first vise I've ever painted red but I refurbished it for my friend & owner of the company I work for and his newly renovated garage has a definite red theme going!

The second vise is a Rock Island 571 that I refurbished for my brother. Initially he thought he wanted a 4"-5" vise but once he realized that vintage vises in that size range from 45-80lbs he realized this RI was perfect for his needs. He wanted it black to match all the toolboxes and racking in his garage. He actually had the idea to file the lettering after paint which I had always wanted to try and am really happy with the results. This one is dated Sept.1944 and while it has certainly been used over the last 76 years, the jaws are still crisp and it's now one finger smooth and good as new!

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[engineer2]

I know this is the common-as-dirt Wilton vise, but where is the model number?
I need a new pivot locking bolt that mounts under the base.
Got it for free from an estate sale.

 

[Shiftless]

I know this is the common-as-dirt Wilton vise, but where is the model number?
I need a new pivot locking bolt that mounts under the base.
Got it for free from an estate sale.

Free is good!
Just use a carriage bolt of the appropriate size. If you don’t have a proper swivel lock down with handle and can’t fab one up yourself, a stainless steel acorn nut will probably be OK for you.

.

 

[Dan8906]

Hello all, haven’t been on much since COVID. But I’ve recently found sometime to finish up some vises I had staring at my the last few months.




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[MayerMR]

Hello all, haven’t been on much since COVID. But I’ve recently found sometime to finish up some vises I had staring at my the last few months.




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Love the color, but I think you'll find that painted slide is going to get scratched up in short order.

 

[ncgun99]

Finally got the welding done on my stand for the No 22.
Mocked up. Just a little more paint for the base and we’re in business.



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[va.grouseman]

Yep Dan, your slide looks bare metal up front but painted in the rear.---Is it bare metal all the way with an optical allusion from the lighting in the pic, or is part of the slide painted?---Probably better to just oil or grease the slide if it is a user cause the paint will cause drag and eventually ware off, but if it is a collector and will see no use, then as Cam Newton says, "it all good".

 

[Charles Waugh]

Smitty,
Gorgeous C3. I love the raw metal finish.
: - )

 

[Dan8906]

Yep Dan, your slide looks bare metal up front but painted in the rear.---Is it bare metal all the way with an optical allusion from the lighting in the pic, or is part of the slide painted?---Probably better to just oil or grease the slide if it is a user cause the paint will cause drag and eventually ware off, but if it is a collector and will see no use, then as Cam Newton says, "it all good".

It’s bare between. I repainted it, following what looked like the original paint scheme. Which the tail was painted as well. Didn’t seem to cause any issues or dragging. The vise is already gone to another user so I won’t know how it will hold up over time.


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[lowdowndodge]

ncgun99
That stand looks fantastic!

Sam

 

[Smitty]

Thanks Charles. The BLO finish really seemed to suit the vise.

 

[Vise]

Rusty - thanks for the extra pics. Your collection is something to behold.

Smitty - that C3 is another keeper. Very nice job cleaning it up.

Chris - the 571 is as clean as they come. Love the 57X series Rock Islands.

NCgun - your 22 is something to be proud of. Turned out great.

Dan - the Wilton looks very good. Nice work.

 

[NYBODYMAN]

Looking for some info on this old monster Reed. It belongs to a friend's father. The jaws are 7" wide, the base is missing (looks like the ears where it mounts were broken off at one time. He told me it's from the old Erie Railyard in Port Jervis, NY where they live and he's had it forever. It's definitely seen it's share of use but still functional. Any idea of age or approximate value?

 

[wrenchguy]

107 was a non swiveler, the base thats left is all it had.

Here is the reed vise dating thread.
https://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=400156&highlight=reed+date+thread

 

[zkling]

107 was a non swiveler, the base thats left is all it had.

Here is the reed vise dating thread.
https://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=400156&highlight=reed+date+thread

Look again, it appears to me that the side mounting bosses are broken off.

 

[davethorik]

If it didn't have the feet broken off, worth probably $500+.
As it sits it is a parts vise. How is it even attached to the bench?

 

[Andy FitzGibbon]

If it didn't have the feet broken off, worth probably $500+.

As it sits it is a parts vise. How is it even attached to the bench?

Looks to me like someone welded it to a steel plate that's then been welded or bolted to the bench top.

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[PierceA]

I agree with Davethorik, with the broken mounting ears, it's a parts vise. And since a Rood 107 is far from common, it's not worth much as parts either. With it's ears intact, it's probably worth $400-$500.

The vise appears to have been welded directly to the steel workbench. I guess not a bad way to make the vise have some functionality. Just a crying shame to see a good vise having been somehow destroyed. There had to have been some incredible abuse or foolish mounting method used to break the mounting tabs off the base.

I looked at my Reed 106S and can't imagine breaking even the swivel base's tabs. I suppose there are some 20# sledgehammers in the world and guys using them, maybe that could have done the damage..

PierceA

 

[NYBODYMAN]

Looks to me like someone welded it to a steel plate that's then been welded or bolted to the bench top.

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It is welded to the steel top.

I agree with Davethorik, with the broken mounting ears, it's a parts vise. And since a Rood 107 is far from common, it's not worth much as parts either. With it's ears intact, it's probably worth $400-$500.

The vise appears to have been welded directly to the steel workbench. I guess not a bad way to make the vise have some functionality. Just a crying shame to see a good vise having been somehow destroyed. There had to have been some incredible abuse or foolish mounting method used to break the mounting tabs off the base.

I looked at my Reed 106S and can't imagine breaking even the swivel base's tabs. I suppose there are some 20# sledgehammers in the world and guys using them, maybe that could have done the damage..

PierceA

It is welded and still works. It's surprisingly smooth believe it or not. He claimed the vise to be almost 100 years old as he is in his late 70's and remembered it as a kid. Remember it is from a rail yard and then was used as in heavy equipment repair so it has had a rough yet useful life

 

[Vono]

Earlier type Parkinson No8.

I got this the other day, cool old thing.

 

[dutchgray]

Don't see many of those Parkinson's with the screw on jaws that are in such good shape, usually the threads have given up, jaw plates go loose and the castings get broken under them, especially the bigger sizes.
They have a cleaner look about them than the bolt through type.

 

[Vono]

Hello dutchgray

Yes I agree most of the older style Parkinson's i've seen have been rather battered.

They do look cleaner don't they, it's a style I rather like. I think it's from around WW1 as I think they changed around 1920 to the bolt through type (if anybody knows for definite though i'd be very interested to hear). I wonder if they changed them as it was stronger ?

This does have one smallish nick out of it on the static jaw (see pic) but it seems quite stable & it looks worse in the pic than it is so given its age i'm not worrying too much ! If it starts to bother me I may perhaps JB Weld that bit (or use something similar), but there's no rush.

Merry Christmas

 

[engineer2]

Just use a carriage bolt of the appropriate size.

Thanks, it worked perfectly. bought a 3/8x1-1/2 and cut a 1/4" off and it works fine. The original bolt was just worn out. Now I'm inspired to rebuild it and paint it. It looks like it was originally a very dark gray. Anybody know a good paint match for a Schiller Park Wilton 3-1/2" mechanics vise?
Does anybody make a jaw insert for holding pipes?

 

[Shiftless]

Thanks, it worked perfectly. bought a 3/8x1-1/2 and cut a 1/4" off and it works fine. The original bolt was just worn out. Now I'm inspired to rebuild it and paint it. It looks like it was originally a very dark gray. Anybody know a good paint match for a Schiller Park Wilton 3-1/2" mechanics vise?
Does anybody make a jaw insert for holding pipes?

If you’re looking for a gloss finish that’s easy to wipe clean, I suggest Rustoleum Smoke gray. I used it to refinish this little Columbian 63. I used it to repaint my Craftsman drill press and the bench grinder that I converted into a buffer motor to spin my Nyalox brush wheels.

You can get pretty good results with a brush if you’re not set up to spray paint. I used a 3/4 inch wide camel hair artist brush. Thin the paint about 10% with mineral spirits.

The down side to using this paint is that recoat time is 24 hours and although you can handle painted objects in 6 hours or so depending on temps, it takes weeks to fully cure.
And you need multiple coats. I think this vise took 3 to look like this.

 

[engineer2]

Thanks again!

 

[PSCo1867]

Please help with nailing down the identity of this Columbian. The stamp pad says "556", but the first "5" appears to be stamped over an original "6". After these stamped digits is a cast "M".

Look how robust (and long)the fixed-jaw base is! And what's with the lever by the meatball? This model is clearly steel (not iron), as seen in the welds. Someone welded the base down to a huge hand cart, and It's been hidden in plain sight for years.

I could not find this model in any old literature. Any info would be appreciated.

Thanks.

I finally got this Quick Release Columbian Model 556 cut free and brought inside for the first time in a good while. It was non-functioning because the quick-release linkage (long metal strip) had come out of a slot underneath the vise. Since the vise was stitched to a boiler plate, there was no access to fix it. So, after a quick fix of the linkage, and a much-needed WD-40 bath, I took a few more photos. I am still searching for any literature mentioning the 556, or any Columbian QR models. Big thanks to KMScott for fielding all of my novice vise questions.

 

[Old Radar]

If you’re looking for a gloss finish that’s easy to wipe clean, I suggest Rustoleum Smoke gray. I used it to refinish this little Columbian 63. I used it to repaint my Craftsman drill press and the bench grinder that I converted into a buffer motor to spin my Nyalox brush wheels.

You can get pretty good results with a brush if you’re not set up to spray paint. I used a 3/4 inch wide camel hair artist brush. Thin the paint about 10% with mineral spirits.

The down side to using this paint is that recoat time is 24 hours and although you can handle painted objects in 6 hours or so depending on temps, it takes weeks to fully cure.
And you need multiple coats. I think this vise took 3 to look like this.

"...it takes weeks to fully cure"--unless you give it some help! As I posted last week Here, I used an old toaster oven I bought at a garage sale to cure my vise in three hours. I used Behr Oil-Base Semi-Gloss Enamel. I also brushed it on but only used a single coat so most of the old dings and cuts of its past use would still be visible.

 

[Shiftless]

O.R.:
That Cadet looks great
Newcomers may not know that your orange is quite close to the original color that
Wilton used back in the day.

I have a Cadet laying around that I have yet to paint. Chevy engine orange is another close match.

Here is a pic I lifted from you know who showing one I presume to be in original paint.

 

[KMScott]

I finally got this Quick Release Columbian Model 556 cut free and brought inside for the first time in a good while. It was non-functioning because the quick-release linkage (long metal strip) had come out of a slot underneath the vise. Since the vise was stitched to a boiler plate, there was no access to fix it. So, after a quick fix of the linkage, and a much-needed WD-40 bath, I took a few more photos. I am still searching for any literature mentioning the 556, or any Columbian QR models. Big thanks to KMScott for fielding all of my novice vise questions.

Great pics PSCO, I have a Columbian M series with C style jaws too. Don't see to many around. Also a Columbian with Tee style jaws. Yours is marked Columbian Hardware built in Cleveland. Note the large Dynamic Support and a quick release. Pretty rare vise, first one I have seen. Can you weight it for us. Nice find PSCO. Be sure to post pics of that 6" double swiveler Yost that I seen earlier, the guys here would appreciate it.

 

[TailGunner3000]

"...it takes weeks to fully cure"--unless you give it some help! As I posted last week Here, I used an old toaster oven I bought at a garage sale to cure my vise in three hours. I used Behr Oil-Base Semi-Gloss Enamel. I also brushed it on but only used a single coat so most of the old dings and cuts of its past use would still be visible.

You can also add a catalyst/hardener. Not only will it speed the drying time, it will provide a more durable finish when fully cured.

 

[PSCo1867]

Great pics PSCO, I have a Columbian M series with C style jaws too. Don't see to many around. Also a Columbian with Tee style jaws. Yours is marked Columbian Hardware built in Cleveland. Note the large Dynamic Support and a quick release. Pretty rare vise, first one I have seen. Can you weight it for us. Nice find PSCO. Be sure to post pics of that 6" double swiveler Yost that I seen earlier, the guys here would appreciate it.

I'm coming up with 82# for the M 556 Columbian. Great work to you and all who are compiling all this info for others to use.

And....cool examples of C-style and T-style Columbians that you presented.

6" Yost double-swivel pics to follow.

 

[PSCo1867]

Great pics PSCO, I have a Columbian M series with C style jaws too. Don't see to many around. Also a Columbian with Tee style jaws. Yours is marked Columbian Hardware built in Cleveland. Note the large Dynamic Support and a quick release. Pretty rare vise, first one I have seen. Can you weight it for us. Nice find PSCO. Be sure to post pics of that 6" double swiveler Yost that I seen earlier, the guys here would appreciate it.

Here's the 6" Yost double-swivel. I still need to get back and measure max opening, and possibly to unbolt and weigh. I don't think the replaceable jaws are original, but don't know enough about them. This vise is still in it's original service location:

 

[wrenchguy]

It is welded and still works. It's surprisingly smooth believe it or not. He claimed the vise to be almost 100 years old as he is in his late 70's and remembered it as a kid. Remember it is from a rail yard and then was used as in heavy equipment repair so it has had a rough yet useful life

I have several broken users around here, i believe if it works its good to go. We all can't be silk purses. I'd be proud to put that uncommon clamper to work.
thanks 4 posting.

 

[dutchgray]

I finally got this Quick Release Columbian Model 556 cut free and brought inside for the first time in a good while. It was non-functioning because the quick-release linkage (long metal strip) had come out of a slot underneath the vise. Since the vise was stitched to a boiler plate, there was no access to fix it. So, after a quick fix of the linkage, and a much-needed WD-40 bath, I took a few more photos. I am still searching for any literature mentioning the 556, or any Columbian QR models. Big thanks to KMScott for fielding all of my novice vise questions.

That flat metal strip is supposed to be flat and straight and yours looks to be quite twisted, if it is I would replace it. They get like that when something has been binding or when people have been using the QR without knocking the tension off the vice first.

 

[Mugen AP1]

Here is a shot of my daily drivers. 800n and a 1765.
Dake arbor press cameo.