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DaveT

Well-known member
Joined
Feb 14, 2019
Messages
238
Location
St. Louis area
Charles,

That Craftsman is made by Wilton.

The bench dog should be flushed, there maybe something stuck underneath keeping it from going down further. If I remember correctly? The thumb handle should be threaded into the bench dog and can unscrew allowing you to remove the bench dog.

I believe that is a Columbian made vise. Check the serial if it starts with 506 that is the prefix for Columbian made in USA. I have the 391.5195 which was made in Japan but certainly looks like the same mold. I am not sure if the 391.5195 was still Columbian. Here is mine. The original color was red. This was bead blasted and coated with Penetrol.
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macgee

Well-known member
Joined
Jan 11, 2014
Messages
2,834
Location
Sepulveda Pass, CA
McGee, CRSNMICH,
Right you were!
The crud in there took quite a while with a curved, sharp dental pick to break loose.
Got the vise cleaned and mounted and it works fantastic!


Awesome, glad it worked out. It a great vise; I love the speedy feature. Enjoy!


I believe that is a Columbian made vise. Check the serial if it starts with 506 that is the prefix for Columbian made in USA. I have the 391.5195 which was made in Japan but certainly looks like the same mold. I am not sure if the 391.5195 was still Columbian. Here is mine. The original color was red. This was bead blasted and coated with Penetrol.


Dave,

I stand corrected, you're right! I pulled the trigger too fast calling it, it must be my lazy tired eyes (I'm blaming it just on my eyes :))

I like the finish job on yours. Cheers
 

CRSINMICH

Well-known member
Joined
Aug 15, 2015
Messages
2,405
Location
Southeastern Michigan
SUPERIOR TOOL CO. VISE
It has rotating jaws. It's an oddball and something of a mystery. The only thing I have been able to find out about it is that at least one other GJ member has one. If any of you know anything about it I'd be glad to hear it.
 

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KMScott

Well-known member
Joined
Feb 14, 2012
Messages
4,642
Location
Daufuskie Island, South Carolina
Good afternoon and Happy Holidays.

Where might I get a new set of jaws for a two inch Wilton?
I'd make them, but the "checkering" suggests the need for a shaper...

Before I go off the deep end and try to make these, is there someone who sells them?

Sent from my SM-G975U using Tapatalk

Like Outlaw mentioned I made a fixture and used a 90 included angle cutter to cut the serrations. Late Summer I showed Mary the new jaw building Machinist how to make the baby jaws at Wiltonviseparts.net , we made 10 pairs and they was gobbled up in 2 weeks. I hope she is making more soon. The pitch between serration cuts are .050 and around .012-.018 deep if I remember right. The angle of the jaws on the fixture plate is 30 degrees. Good luck.
 

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budget76

Well-known member
Joined
Jan 19, 2016
Messages
502
I wondered why you guys had >1 bench vise, who needs more than one? then 3 more followed me home :D They're fun and easy to clean up, now I get it.

Picked up a 4" Wilton, 3.5" Parker 973A?, and an 3.5" Athol 623 1/2 for $100 off FB market. Contacted the guy about 10 minutes after posting and was there as soon as I got off work

Both the Wilton & Parker were frozen up, the Athol moved. All 3 were crusty. First step was to get some PB Blaster soaking into all threaded areas & the slides of the two frozen ones. Kept hitting them for 2-3 days, and eventually both the Parker & Wilton started moving.

Bonus view of my previously restored Parker holding its' brother vertical, done with copper Rustoleum hammered.
 

budget76

Well-known member
Joined
Jan 19, 2016
Messages
502
Part 2:

Athol 623 1/2 got restored first as an Xmas present for Dad. Electrolysis really cleaned her up nice. Then it got a coat of satin clear on the exposed metal areas, butchers wax on the slide, Rustoleum Hammered Black on the non-bare surfaces, and gold highlighting for the letters. Mounted to a clampable bench mount so he can move it out of the way when not in use since he's limited on bench space.

Itching to restore the Wilton now, but the temp dropped and my motivation to be out in the cold is low


 

AngryBeaver

Well-known member
Joined
Jul 12, 2017
Messages
1,705
Location
Lake Milton Ohio
SUPERIOR TOOL CO. VISE
It has rotating jaws. It's an oddball and something of a mystery. The only thing I have been able to find out about it is that at least one other GJ member has one. If any of you know anything about it I'd be glad to hear it.

I haven't been able to find out much about mine. Mine had one of the mounting ears broken off, that I welded a new mount on and its on my welding table.

that T handle is original from what I can tell, can't say for certain on the spindle handle as mine was missing.

I've seen one other one, other than mine in 4-5 years. Its an extremely heavy little ******. (for its size)
 

RTM

Well-known member
Joined
May 13, 2019
Messages
13,190
Location
SF Bay Area
Like Outlaw mentioned I made a fixture and used a 90 included angle cutter to cut the serrations..... The angle of the jaws on the fixture plate is 30 degrees. Good luck.

Thanks for sharing a bit of the magic with that picture. The non machinist in me would have never thought to make them that way en masse.
 

Vise

Well-known member
Joined
Apr 16, 2019
Messages
575
Location
NE
Like Outlaw mentioned I made a fixture and used a 90 included angle cutter to cut the serrations. Late Summer I showed Mary the new jaw building Machinist how to make the baby jaws at Wiltonviseparts.net , we made 10 pairs and they was gobbled up in 2 weeks. I hope she is making more soon. The pitch between serration cuts are .050 and around .012-.018 deep if I remember right. The angle of the jaws on the fixture plate is 30 degrees. Good luck.

I bought a pair of Mary-made Prentiss 57 jaws recently and they are great!
 

macgee

Well-known member
Joined
Jan 11, 2014
Messages
2,834
Location
Sepulveda Pass, CA
Part 2:

Athol 623 1/2 got restored first as an Xmas present for Dad. Electrolysis really cleaned her up nice. Then it got a coat of satin clear on the exposed metal areas, butchers wax on the slide, Rustoleum Hammered Black on the non-bare surfaces, and gold highlighting for the letters. Mounted to a clampable bench mount so he can move it out of the way when not in use since he's limited on bench space.

Very nice!

Those particular Athols are one of my very favorite out of all vises. I have one of those Athol's marked Starrett, same shape and look but has removable jaws. I love it.
 

Fierljeppen

Well-known member
Joined
Jan 26, 2018
Messages
1,159
SUPERIOR TOOL CO. VISE
It has rotating jaws. It's an oddball and something of a mystery. The only thing I have been able to find out about it is that at least one other GJ member has one. If any of you know anything about it I'd be glad to hear it.

I haven't been able to find out much about mine. Mine had one of the mounting ears broken off, that I welded a new mount on and its on my welding table.

that T handle is original from what I can tell, can't say for certain on the spindle handle as mine was missing.

I've seen one other one, other than mine in 4-5 years. Its an extremely heavy little ******. (for its size)

You're right, there isn't much information on the web about those vises. My notes show a vise with "Bay Vise & Tool Saginaw 12 Mich" castings that looks the same as the "Superior Tool Co" vise. Although, neither one of these companies show up in any vise mfg. directories, there was a very small company, "Webster Vise Works" out of very nearby Bay City, MI that was producing vises in the late 1890's, which would've been circa correct for that style of vise.

You know I love vise puzzles, but this one is going to take some blind luck or a hard investigative effort to solve. I'd rather be lucky than good any day.

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Rileysan

Well-known member
Joined
Sep 11, 2015
Messages
4,298
Location
Milwaukie, Oregon
This was a long project that I left behind and returned to numerous times. If not for the fact it was an elusive Craftsman 5196, I might not have tackled it - at least not with this level of detail.

When I bought it, it was so caked in dirt, grease, and layers of paint, I had no idea what I was getting into. What I found was disappointing: The "Anvil" on top of the static was cracked, the main screw was starting to separate from the meatball (not to mention the handle was bent and the meatball was stamped "5191"), the swivel base lock-down bolt was broken and the lock handle bent. Even the stamped date of manufacture is unreadable due to the abuse the slide took!

After I stripped the vise down to bare metal, I started working on the anvil. I drilled a 3/8" hole about 1/2" beyond the crack, cut a groove the length of the crack, and ground a bevel into the new cut. I used 316 stainless rod to fill the gap and raise the height of the anvil about 1/16".

I used an angle grinder with a flapper disc to clean up the anvil and remove casting slag before painting the whole thing Hammerite "Hammered Deep Green".

I used a die grinder to cut a groove into the back side of the meatball so I could weld the main screw tight to the meatball (it originally appeared to be press-fit and spot welded), straitened the main screw handle and sanded out all but the deepest peens on the handle, then polished the whole thing.

The final step was to repair the broken swivel lock-down bolt by cutting off the broken section and welding a new bolt to the cast portion that locks into the ring (and straightening &polishing the lock down handle/nut).

I still need a Craftsman emblem and even though the the paint ran on one side, I'm still very happy with the end result. Considering what I had to work with (and the lack of available replacement parts) this turned out really good.

Cheers!
-Brian
 

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Butterman2473

Active member
Joined
Nov 28, 2020
Messages
36
Location
San Antonio, Texas
Look at what I picked up today. Athol 624 1/2...weighing in at 77 lbs. .
It's such a beast compared to my Reed 104R.
 

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gpw_42

Well-known member
Joined
Apr 24, 2017
Messages
717
Location
NC Sandhills, USA
Picked up this Morgan Chicago 145 today. Will get it into the e-tank and go from there; I'm stoked to get working on this project. Don't think it'll take much except to finish with rust removal, then prime and paint. Check the condition of the jaws.
 

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AngryBeaver

Well-known member
Joined
Jul 12, 2017
Messages
1,705
Location
Lake Milton Ohio
This was a long project that I left behind and returned to numerous times. If not for the fact it was an elusive Craftsman 5196, I might not have tackled it - at least not with this level of detail.

When I bought it, it was so caked in dirt, grease, and layers of paint, I had no idea what I was getting into. What I found was disappointing: The "Anvil" on top of the static was cracked, the main screw was starting to separate from the meatball (not to mention the handle was bent and the meatball was stamped "5191"), the swivel base lock-down bolt was broken and the lock handle bent. Even the stamped date of manufacture is unreadable due to the abuse the slide took!

After I stripped the vise down to bare metal, I started working on the anvil. I drilled a 3/8" hole about 1/2" beyond the crack, cut a groove the length of the crack, and ground a bevel into the new cut. I used 316 stainless rod to fill the gap and raise the height of the anvil about 1/16".

I used an angle grinder with a flapper disc to clean up the anvil and remove casting slag before painting the whole thing Hammerite "Hammered Deep Green".

I used a die grinder to cut a groove into the back side of the meatball so I could weld the main screw tight to the meatball (it originally appeared to be press-fit and spot welded), straitened the main screw handle and sanded out all but the deepest peens on the handle, then polished the whole thing.

The final step was to repair the broken swivel lock-down bolt by cutting off the broken section and welding a new bolt to the cast portion that locks into the ring (and straightening &polishing the lock down handle/nut).

I still need a Craftsman emblem and even though the the paint ran on one side, I'm still very happy with the end result. Considering what I had to work with (and the lack of available replacement parts) this turned out really good.

Cheers!
-Brian


Nice work.. the casting line on the anvil seems to be a common spot for them to crack. had two that way myself. I'm always on the lookout for the heritage badges. i'll let ya know if I run across another one.
 

Rileysan

Well-known member
Joined
Sep 11, 2015
Messages
4,298
Location
Milwaukie, Oregon
Thank you AB!

Here are some more photos of the areas that were damaged. I didn't photograph every step of the process but have enough photos to tell the story.

Brian
 

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fuNBags1

New member
Joined
Dec 27, 2020
Messages
4
Location
RI
hello, i just picked up a prentiss vise for cheap the other day, on the side of vise it is labeled "no. 71" but can't seem to find anything about this vise online. it has a trigger on the base of the vise that acts as a quick release so you can move the jaws quickly. ill provide some pics and any info on vise is greatly appreciated!
 

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akasrick

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Joined
Apr 10, 2017
Messages
795
Location
south jersey
hello, i just picked up a prentiss vise for cheap the other day, on the side of vise it is labeled "no. 71" but can't seem to find anything about this vise online. it has a trigger on the base of the vise that acts as a quick release so you can move the jaws quickly. ill provide some pics and any info on vise is greatly appreciated!


Hello

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A removable jaw pad style #71 is on the spreadsheet

akasrick
 

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Kramercjk

New member
Joined
Nov 13, 2017
Messages
1
In my uncle's machine shop. Quart oil can for reference.
 

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fuNBags1

New member
Joined
Dec 27, 2020
Messages
4
Location
RI
thank you! trying to figure out how to take off the jaw inserts to replace them but it doesn't have any set screws, would anyone know how to do so?
 

Charles Waugh

Well-known member
Joined
Dec 6, 2010
Messages
66
Location
Boring, OR (yes, it's called Boring!)
I believe that is a Columbian made vise. Check the serial if it starts with 506 that is the prefix for Columbian made in USA. I have the 391.5195 which was made in Japan but certainly looks like the same mold. I am not sure if the 391.5195 was still Columbian. Here is mine. The original color was red. This was bead blasted and coated with Penetrol.

Dave,
It sure looks the same - as so as I head back out to the shop, I'll check the numbers.

And - Penetrol - I really like that finish!

Never heard of it, now I have, gotta try it!
Thanks!
 

PierceA

Well-known member
Joined
Aug 6, 2020
Messages
471
Location
SE Michigan
fuNBags1: if in fact they are replaceable jaws, if they don't have recessed screws through the jaw insert face, then sometimes there is a pin from the top or bottom going through a portion of the insert, holding the insert to the jaw support.
The pin on type usually have a 'T' shape when viewed from the side.. If you clean up the side of the jaw and insert to look for the shape of the insert this will help solve the mystery.
If there is no pin, or recessed screws, then then most likely the jaw inserts are cast into the vise jaw supports and are permanent. You can dress up the serrations with a sharp file to make them better.
The 71 shown on the vise info spreadsheet shows recessed screws through the jaw inserts.

Pierce A.

Here is a link to the spreadsheet: https://docs.google.com/spreadsheet...YI7UKRpUd3aheAE86KBQRBGb9s/edit#gid=666157805

I hope that link works.
 

PierceA

Well-known member
Joined
Aug 6, 2020
Messages
471
Location
SE Michigan
CRISinMICH: That Saginaw made vise is really interesting.. I'm going to have to see it in person some day..
I live just ? 30-40 miles south of Saginaw.. and I love local history.. I don't remember ever seeing a vise like that before though..

PierceA
 

fuNBags1

New member
Joined
Dec 27, 2020
Messages
4
Location
RI
thanks for all the info, very helpful! unfortunately i think they were forged, but can't complain after buying it for $45, now the big question is the value!? :fingersx:
 

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Joevig59

New member
Joined
Nov 22, 2014
Messages
1
Finally cleaned up my Athol 326X I picked up a few months back. I think I’m gonna need a bigger bench.
 

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Vise

Well-known member
Joined
Apr 16, 2019
Messages
575
Location
NE
Joe - That 326X is great. Tough to find that model in good condition.

All - Awhile back someone posted a pic of an add for my giant Parkinsons vise, but I can't find it now. Could that helpful person repost the picture?
 

dannyr

Well-known member
Joined
Oct 13, 2019
Messages
278
Location
Sheffield England
Ebay, listed as 3" even though its a 4", £45 and some pennies delivered.

Glad you got it -- I was looking, got distracted and forgot to up my bid.

These are not common, however I do have one - but it has a difference - the similar rivetted label says Blair, but made in a small works on the N Yorks/Durham moors, whereas I believe yours is Tyne Tees/Newcastle.

Working for our company, I once visited Blair near Newcastle - the main product of the big foundry was tank track segments, and they were looking for ways to extend their life - our way worked, but was too expensive.

ps cwazy wabbit and dutch gray are both rabbits - how come?
 
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