Teeing off buried pvc water line

[jmillican1983]

I'm getting ready to pull a 3/4" pex-a water line into my shop inside conduit that I buried before pouring the slab. I am curious what you all think about the different methods of teeing into my main water line, which is buried about 24", and is 1-1/4" PVC. I am on city water. I understand that digging out 3 feet on each side of the main line to get enough flex to install a traditional tee would be the best method, but I am considering less labor intensive options as well. I have clay soil and I really don't want to dig that much by hand. My other utilities are very close to the water line.

Does anyone have any experience with those slip couplings that use two o-rings, extend into place, and are solvent welded on each end? I could cut a short section out of the main line, install the slip coupling that has already been welded to a tee.

How about using a regular tee and cutting the ridge off the inside to allow the tee to slip all the way over the main line, and then slipping it back over the other side quickly before the solvent sets?

My understanding is the shark bite slip fittings that are made for this type of application are only compatible with copper, CPVC, and pex, so that option is out.

Any other options I haven't thought of?

 

[Git]

We just had a thread about this a couple of months ago. I don't mean to brush you off, but a lot of good comments:

https://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=464848

 

[jmillican1983]

We just had a thread about this a couple of months ago. I don't mean to brush you off, but a lot of good comments:

https://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=464848

Thank you, I didn’t see that thread. It looks like the slip coupling would be an acceptable method.


Sent from my iPhone using The Garage Journal mobile app

 

[59 wagon man]

a 4 elbow swing is your best bet you only need to dig about a foot in eah direction

 

[larry4406]

I am thinking 1.25" PVC should be solvent welded fittings with socket type hub fittings. One slip coupling and a tee and you should be in business.

I assume your meter is out at the street and you are intercepting between the meter and the house. Is your meter accessible with easy shut off access? Have you confirmed you can reliably shut of your house and restore service so you can then cut the main to install tee? Many times meter valves that are not cycled (ie - old homes..) are not happy about moving and leak and sometimes lock up in position when tried to be cycled; not a good think to happen on a weekend...

I am thinking I would install a curb box with valve (and long handled valve key) on the tee branch outlet so you can quickly get the house back on line while this project of running water to the shop project goes south as may likely happen...

Does your jurisdiction require tracer wires? If so get the proper color (blue) and gage of wire (check the specs from the AHJ) and figure out how to do a splice. Required inspections?; obviously check this out..

Obviously obey the frost depth requirements in your location of "Behind my house"...

 

[nmk_61802]

Saddle Tap?

https://www.pvcfittingsonline.com/1-3-4-pvc-snap-tee-snap-socket-end-463-012.html

 

[frank001]

Saddle Tap?

https://www.pvcfittingsonline.com/1-3-4-pvc-snap-tee-snap-socket-end-463-012.html

This is what I used in my garden to add an additional hose connection about eight years ago. Still working fine. You only have to dig a hole big enough to get your hand in.
Glue on the saddle tap first and then drill through the T into the pipe.

 

[jmillican1983]

a 4 elbow swing is your best bet you only need to dig about a foot in eah direction

Will the 4 elbow swing have a noticeable effect on water volume at the house? I have a long driveway (300 ft) and it's important to me to maintain good water volume. I have read that adding too many elbows reduces water volume.

 

[jmillican1983]

I am thinking 1.25" PVC should be solvent welded fittings with socket type hub fittings. One slip coupling and a tee and you should be in business.

I assume your meter is out at the street and you are intercepting between the meter and the house. Is your meter accessible with easy shut off access? Have you confirmed you can reliably shut of your house and restore service so you can then cut the main to install tee? Many times meter valves that are not cycled (ie - old homes..) are not happy about moving and leak and sometimes lock up in position when tried to be cycled; not a good think to happen on a weekend...

I am thinking I would install a curb box with valve (and long handled valve key) on the tee branch outlet so you can quickly get the house back on line while this project of running water to the shop project goes south as may likely happen...

Does your jurisdiction require tracer wires? If so get the proper color (blue) and gage of wire (check the specs from the AHJ) and figure out how to do a splice. Required inspections?; obviously check this out..

Obviously obey the frost depth requirements in your location of "Behind my house"...

Yes, I will be teeing on my side of the meter. About 100 feet down the driveway. I plan to tee off the main line and install a shut off valve for the shop line right after the tee. I will install an irrigation box for access. Frost depth is less than the existing water line depth of 24" PEX sleeve is already buried at 24" depth, as well as a tracer wire. Thanks for your input.

 

[metlmunchr]

4 ells on 1-1/4 pvc would be the equivalent of about 27 feet of additional straight pipe.

https://www.engineeringtoolbox.com/pvc-pipes-equivalent-length-fittings-d_801.html

Personally, I'd modify a tee by removing the stops. People use no stop couplings every day with no issues, and I've long wondered why no stop tees aren't a standard item.