Motive brake bleeder

[CVPIJoe]

There is a million posts on the motive brake bleeder and I feel like I have read half of them and I decided to purchase one.
My biggest concern is not having the right adapter when I need it. I work mainly on fords. I have a 2013 Ford taurus I am working on now and replaced both rear calipers.

I purchased Motive bleeder 0107 and I am really hoping it is the right one. Where are you guys getting your adapters if you are in a pinch? Just order online and wait? I see they have a few dealers but closest one to me is an hour away.

Do they sell an assortment of caps?

I would like to be able to do this myself as I am sure everyone would since finding help isn't always easy.

This is the one I purchased
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00CJ5DZE2/?tag=atomicindus08-20

 

[Chevy-SS]

I just order adapters directly from Motive. Takes a few days, so you gotta double check to see if you have the correct one prior to doing the job, assuming you want to use the Motive bleeder. If no adapter, just get a buddy and do it the old fashioned way.

 

[ajchien]

I think you should use the right cap. I would wait for the right cap to show up or ask a helper and do it the old fashioned way if I didn’t have the right cap.

Check out: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B004N6Z0PC/?tag=atomicindus08-20

Also search for the “CTA tools” and “Power Probe” brands. They have sets of brake reservoir caps that will work with some mods to the tubing adapters.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B019MN7LMA/?tag=atomicindus08-20


There is a “universal” cap which has hooks and chains ... IMHO, it’s more likely to cause a large mess with lots of subsequent profanity. I would avoid those.

 

[engineer2]

I built my own brake bleeder and an wondering about adapters as well. I tried making my own out of a junk yard master cylinder cap, but as soon as I pressurize it, it pops off. This is for a Honda. When I look online:
CTA: looks just like the plastic Honda ones that will likely pop off.
Ares Tool: Dimensions are vague and none of their sizes correspond to Honda master cylinders.
Power Probe: No dimensions shown.

 

[pault28]

I built my own brake bleeder and an wondering about adapters as well. I tried making my own out of a junk yard master cylinder cap, but as soon as I pressurize it, it pops off. This is for a Honda. When I look online:
CTA: looks just like the plastic Honda ones that will likely pop off.
Ares Tool: Dimensions are vague and none of their sizes correspond to Honda master cylinders.
Power Probe: No dimensions shown.

I’ve had success with a “speedi-bleed” on my Honda Fit. I didn’t want to go with the motive because they used a generic hook and chain mounted cap and I read on many forums that it leaked and was a real pain in the ****. The speedi-bleed cap I got is aluminum and has a large o-ring and seals well and worked great. I only have used it once so far though, and that was on my 2016 Fit.

 

[ColoradoToy91]

no input other than i love my motive bleeder

 

[CVPIJoe]

no input other than i love my motive bleeder

Seems everyone does.

Do you just have a bunch of different adapters?

 

[ajchien]

I built my own brake bleeder and an wondering about adapters as well. I tried making my own out of a junk yard master cylinder cap, but as soon as I pressurize it, it pops off. This is for a Honda. When I look online:
CTA: looks just like the plastic Honda ones that will likely pop off.
Ares Tool: Dimensions are vague and none of their sizes correspond to Honda master cylinders.
Power Probe: No dimensions shown.

The CTA 7030 works fine for me on my Hondas. No personal experience with the Ares or the Power Probe versions on Honda.

 

[m3bs]

Ive been using one of these to maintain numerous street and race cars. I’ve had much better luck with the metal adapters than the plastic ones. More expensive, but they save a lot of frustration. The only time I’ve tried the “universal” adapter (on a Honda, BTW) it didn’t end well.

I also recommend replacing the hose every two years or so. When it cracks with a pressurized tank full of fluid it can make a grand mess. Speaking from experience...... On cars with large reservoirs like my ZL1 I use it dry to minimize the risk.

 

[toyotadriver]

I love mine but I don’t put fluid in the tool. I use it for pressurization only. I depressurize it and add fluid to the master cylinder manually when it gets low. I’ve had some issues when I tried putting fluid in the tool and I don’t like cleaning out the lines after I get done using it.

I still use the vacuum method for certain things but use the Motive whenever I can.

 

[latebreak]

Seems everyone does.



Do you just have a bunch of different adapters?

I love my motive. I buy adapters as I need them. I have maybe 3 or 4 now based on past vehicles I’ve flipped.

I’ve emailed with Motive about an application and they responded within minutes. Great support from them.


Sent from my iPhone using Garage Journal

 

[Two Door]

Power Probe: No dimensions shown.

BAHON1 - Screw On
BA08 - 2.11-2.17"
BA09 - 2.7-2.91"

 

[Schurkey]

no input other than i love my motive bleeder

Seems everyone does.

I love my motive.

I think all those "garden sprayer" brake bleeders are one step away from junk.

A "real" pressure bleeder has a rubber diaphragm to separate the fluid from the humidity in the air used to pressurize it.

No diaphragm = wet fluid before you even pump it into the master cylinder.

 

[M6erfan]

I think all those "garden sprayer" brake bleeders are one step away from junk.

A "real" pressure bleeder has a rubber diaphragm to separate the fluid from the humidity in the air used to pressurize it.

No diaphragm = wet fluid before you even pump it into the master cylinder.

Hey, how much for one of 'dem diaphram bleeders? Sound interesting.

 

[Schurkey]

Two sources I have experience with: KD/Gearwrench; and Branick. There was a time when KD had their own design, it may be that KD/Gearwrench is now selling re-branded Branick bleeders (3797D) and adapters. I used the "old" KD unit, I bought it thirty years ago, and it was not new then--I got it from a former employer who probably had it for ten or twenty years.

Available from all the usual sources, including Amazon and ToolTopia.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B003U459B8/?tag=atomicindus08-20
I've tried three times, and I can't get this link to work.
I'm not seeing any included adapters with this Gearwrench unit.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0792KFVN8/?tag=atomicindus08-20

My newer bleeder is the Branick, linked-to above. It shipped with the adapters as shown on the Amazon page. I've heard that current-production Branick kits are shipping with different adapters. I got mine back in '04 or '05.

For the record, I pressure-bleed only for major work, or when flushing fluid. If I'm doing minor work at the wheels--brake hose or wheel cylinders/calipers, I gravity bleed.

 

[toddmorr]

geez are we nitpicking here...i mean, how much air humidity could possibly get into the fluid. You open a sealed container of brake fluid, dump it into the bleeder or master, it's exposed for a few minutes. It's exposed to the swamp air of say the eastern USA. Can't be a big deal

 

[Schurkey]

geez are we nitpicking here...i mean, how much air humidity could possibly get into the fluid. You open a sealed container of brake fluid, dump it into the bleeder or master, it's exposed for a few minutes. It's exposed to the swamp air of say the eastern USA. Can't be a big deal

Tell that to GM. It's right in the service manual. From my '97 C/K manual, page 5A-8

Pressure Bleeding
Tools required
J 29567 Brake Bleeder Adapter
J 28434 Wheel Cylinder Bleeder Wrench
A diaphragm type pressure bleeder must be used. It must have a rubber diaphragm between the air supply and brake fluid to prevent air, moisture, oil, and other contaminants from entering the hydraulic system.

Similar warnings (with different "special tools" as needed to suit the vehicle) have been in the service manuals since Fido was a pup.

But, hey, you're free to do what you want.

 

[n8n]

the other option is to buy a replacement cap at FLAPS or junkyard and epoxy in an air fitting, closing off any vent holes, if any.

I've made my own caps for some vehicles for which Motive does not sell adapters, e.g. Studebaker Avanti with the "fruit jar" MC

 

[n8n]

Tell that to GM. It's right in the service manual. From my '97 C/K manual, page 5A-8

(stuff about needing a diaphragm)

Similar warnings (with different "special tools" as needed to suit the vehicle) have been in the service manuals since Fido was a pup.

But, hey, you're free to do what you want.

I'm assuming that this is in reference to a pressure bleeder intended on being hooked up to shop air, not something like the Motive which a) is basically a garden sprayer and so isn't going to have the same amount of condensation in it as shop air and b) doesn't introduce compressor oil into the air either

 

[Schurkey]

Yup, there'd likely be no oil in the Motive fluid, but there could be plenty of humidity.

 

[bob15]

I guess I'm in the minority in that maybe for a new car/truck with a screw on m/c cover they are great; but for older GM like my 67 camaro, I find the Motive Bleeder *****.

For those that don't remember what they look like they are smooth on the top and found that chains and c-clamps don't really work well. the Mity-Vac works better.

The M/C's look look like this one that I stole from google.....

 

[Schurkey]

My most-used adapter is for master cylinders like that one, and similar all-iron dual-reservoir styles.

If the adapter is built right, it'll seal just fine. If the Motive adapter isn't working...there's a design problem with it.

Which doesn't surprise me at all.

 

[Peoria Man]

If the Motive adapter isn't working...there's a design problem with it.

Which doesn't surprise me at all.

The bottle is a nice color though. Or is that wrong too?

 

[engineer2]

I'd rather have a rubber isolation diaphragm too. I always wanted one of the those old pot bleeders. The guy would just leave the brake fluid in them.
I'll make sure:
my garden sprayer is spotless
I have a particulate filter in the line
I'll make sure the air dryer has time to chill
I'll add a desiccant dryer in the air line
When I'm done the fluid gets emptied out of the bleeder and lines.
If it's just a little bit, it'll get recycled. Brake fluid is cheap.
If I want to get fussy, I suppose could de-gas and dry the brake fluid with my vacuum pump.

 

[Schurkey]

When I'm done the fluid gets emptied out of the bleeder and lines.

That's the most important part when using a garden-sprayer "pressure bleeder".

Drying leftover fluid with a vacuum pump would be possible, I suppose. Hadn't thought about that until now. It'll take a "real" vacuum pump, like would be used to boil water out of an air conditioning system. I'm thinking it's hardly worth the effort.

 

[M6erfan]

I cant imagine that a fresh bottle of fluid, being exposed to the atmosphere for a few minutes, absorbs a lot of water.

 

[Chevy-SS]

I love my Motive bleeder. I also love reading the wide variety of comments about it (or just about anything) here on GJ. This has to be one of the best forums on the old interweb. I love all of you, even the a$$holes!

 

[engineer2]

I'm thinking it's hardly worth the effort.

Come to think of it, for $4 a quart, hardly worth the effort. I'd have to find a suitable container too. And what have you gained when your $8/qt vacuum pump oil gets contaminated by whatever you just sucked out of the brake fluid.

 

[Schurkey]

I cant imagine that a fresh bottle of fluid, being exposed to the atmosphere for a few minutes, absorbs a lot of water.

Apparently, brake fluid will absorb moisture right through a plastic bottle. Which is why it used to be sold in metal "cans". This may be too far-out even for me; given that everyone and their brother is selling brake fluid in plastic bottles now.

The important part is not the bottle it's sold in, it's being put into a much larger "garden sprayer" and then having twice the atmosphere (15-ish psi) pumped into that bottle.

I love all of you, even the a$$holes!

Appreciated.

 

[M6erfan]

Apparently, brake fluid will absorb moisture right through a plastic bottle. Which is why it used to be sold in metal "cans". This may be too far-out even for me; given that everyone and their brother is selling brake fluid in plastic bottles now.

The important part is not the bottle it's sold in, it's being put into a much larger "garden sprayer" and then having twice the atmosphere (15-ish psi) pumped into that bottle.

The brake fluid I use, Pentosin Super Dot 4/ATE Type 200, is in metal containers so I guess I'm not to worry.

Look, those diaphragm bleeders look great, but make one in a 2 to 4 liter size for $150 bucks or so and maybe I'll bite. But as a DIY'er changing fluid every couple of years I just can't justify a 20 liter/$400 piece of equipment. I've been using a Motive pressure bleeder for over 20 years and I've never had any brake related issue on any of the vehicles I maintain.

*knocking on wood. . .

 

[Two Door]

The brake fluid I use, Pentosin Super Dot 4/ATE Type 200, is in metal containers so I guess I'm not to worry.

Look, those diaphragm bleeders look great, but make one in a 2 to 4 liter size for $150 bucks or so and maybe I'll bite. But as a DIY'er changing fluid every couple of years I just can't justify a 20 liter/$400 piece of equipment. I've been using a Motive pressure bleeder for over 20 years and I've never had any brake related issue on any of the vehicles I maintain.

*knocking on wood. . .

Actually, if you search for pneumatic (or diaphragm) brake bleeder, someone (probably in the far east) is making one that is available for $100-130 on Ebay and Amazon, including some adapters. It probably isn't Branick or KD quality, but perhaps it doesn't matter. It might be good enough to keep air and water separate.

They've been out for a while, I'm surprised I've seen no reports on them.

 

[Two Door]

The brake fluid I use, Pentosin Super Dot 4/ATE Type 200, is in metal containers so I guess I'm not to worry.

Look, those diaphragm bleeders look great, but make one in a 2 to 4 liter size for $150 bucks or so and maybe I'll bite. But as a DIY'er changing fluid every couple of years I just can't justify a 20 liter/$400 piece of equipment. I've been using a Motive pressure bleeder for over 20 years and I've never had any brake related issue on any of the vehicles I maintain.

*knocking on wood. . .

Actually, if you search for pneumatic (or diaphragm) brake bleeder, someone (probably in the far east) is making one that is available for $100-130 on Ebay and Amazon, including some adapters. It probably isn't Branick or KD quality, but perhaps it doesn't matter. It might be good enough to keep air and moisture separate.

They've been out for a while, I'm surprised I've seen no reports on them.

 

[m3bs]

I’d be much more concerned about how long that bulk fluid has been sitting in that Branick style bleeder than fluid exposed to 15 psi air for 15 minutes in a Motive bleeder. That may be OK for a high volume shop where they go through many gallons of fluid per month, but useless for a DIY setup.

I go through a lot of expensive brake fluid that costs around $60 per quart to maintain several race cars. I use a Motive bleeder that I modified to pressurize with an air line rather than blowing bubbles into the fluid with the hand pump. I wash the bleeder out with water, then rinse with 91% alcohol and blow it dry with air. Any residual moisture evaporates within a few days.

BTW, brake fluid reservoirs are vented to atmosphere.....

 

[M6erfan]

I’d be much more concerned about how long that bulk fluid has been sitting in that Branick style bleeder than fluid exposed to 15 psi air for 15 minutes in a Motive bleeder. That may be OK for a high volume shop where they go through many gallons of fluid per month, but useless for a DIY setup.

I go through a lot of expensive brake fluid that costs around $60 per quart to maintain several race cars. I use a Motive bleeder that I modified to pressurize with an air line rather than blowing bubbles into the fluid with the hand pump. I wash the bleeder out with water, then rinse with 91% alcohol and blow it dry with air. Any residual moisture evaporates within a few days.

BTW, brake fluid reservoirs are vented to atmosphere.....

^^^Yup

 

[ridervfr]

No talk about Mity-Vac brake bleeding systems?

 

[Showkey]

No talk about Mity-Vac brake bleeding systems?

Vacuum from the any source is always a good choice .......so....
Is any pressure from the top down or the bottom up.

Some vehicles or brake systems respond or require special techniques.

 

[M6erfan]

No talk about Mity-Vac brake bleeding systems?

I have an older Vacula model (now Mityvac Model # MV6830). It works well but needs plenty of CFM to be effective.

 

[m3bs]

My only reservation about vacuum bleeders is the likelihood that air will be drawn into the caliper around the bleed screw threads. Chances are it will be sucked right back out but......

 

[Ralf11]

I think all those "garden sprayer" brake bleeders are one step away from junk.

A "real" pressure bleeder has a rubber diaphragm to separate the fluid from the humidity in the air used to pressurize it.

No diaphragm = wet fluid before you even pump it into the master cylinder.

I made one long before Motiv commercialized the item.

You only use air in the sprayer - solves a lot of problems.

 

[Schurkey]

BTW, brake fluid reservoirs are vented to atmosphere.....

The good ones are vented to atmosphere...via a rubber diaphragm. Fluid on one side, atmosphere on the other; and an accordion bellows arrangement slowing water transfer.

I've been told--but have not seen--that there are reservoirs that don't use a diaphragm. Someone mentioned "Honda" when describing them. I can't believe that manufacturers would be that dumb--unless they're not using hygroscopic brake fluid.