Pole barn building size increments of 8'

[Daddydavesr86]

Is it true that if measurements are not increments of 8' that waste of money.
Due to easments on my property i can only build 20'x28' building.
I was told by a contractor when you buy the kits or lumber bundles i would be buying kit for 24x32. The only thing im saving is the concrete cost. Would there be more waste metal and lumber be cut to customize size.

Based on what i read i should build as big as i can afford and what property can handle.
I dont think 16x24 i would be happy with. Especially if im only saving $1000 or 2000 to get the extra 4 feet on both side and length.

Thank you for any thoughts or advice.

 

[GoodStuff]

Build it as big as you possibly can… Increments of four is only because lumber size is dimensional… A good builder will minimize that


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[rcurrier44]

Basically yes. Especially in a kit. Your basic pole barn layout puts the poles every 8’ because it works out well with common lengths of materials.

I would still build it as large as I can. Extra wood can help finish out the inside and you can keep the extra pieces of tin just Incase you mess one up.


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[Chuckster in NJ]

POSTS 2&3 are accurate!
Here is my 24’x32’ pole barn with a 10’ ceiling, 9’ wide doors, 6” slab. Pioneer Pole Buildings did the build two years ago and I am happy with the building.
This building is for equipment storage and unheated...... I also have a three car attached garage with radiant heat.

 

[u2slow]

If you have a sqft limit to max out, a kit isn't the solution. Been there, tried that.

Your remaining variables are height (mezzanine later?) or perhaps you can increase your building size by not enclosing part of it. (Car-port, lean-to, etc). Or make a stealthy addition later. BTDT too.

Those expressions about 4' and 8' increments for waste are largely due to how estimating is done, and the speed at which a contractor puts up a building. If a DIY'er wants to use up every scrap along the way... that's different.

 

[csp]

I'd rather build to 3' increments and cut wood vs having partial sheets of steel siding/roofing.

 

[Orionrising]

presuming the kit is with trusses a 24' wide kit will not work in a 20' wide space the trusses would be too wide. shortening a 20'x32 foot would just be not using a couple sheets of metal and having some 2x4s or 2x6 left over. as one of the truss bays would be 4' wide not 8.

 

[greg13]

Build what YOU want, If you don't, 10 years from now you are going to asking yourself why you didn't. In the long there won't be much of a difference in price.

 

[Leaflessshadetree]

Saveings should be only a little labor vs the 4ft increments with 20x28.

 

[Bert_]

The poles and rafters are usually on 8' centers. You'll use the same number, just have a shorter spacing on the last set. The other lumber and tin could be reduced slightly.

Going narrower than the kit won't work. The trusses can't be cut. No reason you can't order trusses whatever size you want though.

 

[rburke65]

Why wouldn’t the 24’ trusses work on a 20’ wide garage? Would give you a 2’ overhand and more space for ceiling insulation.......unless I’m missing something....anyone?

 

[Bert_]

Why wouldn’t the 24’ trusses work on a 20’ wide garage? Would give you a 2’ overhand and more space for ceiling insulation.......unless I’m missing something....anyone?

You can't just put the wall wherever you want. They are made to put the weight on one certain spot.

 

[rct]

Try another builder for estimates on the 20x28 you want. I know my local 84 lumber does material lists based on any size and often uses rafters or trusses on 16" or 24" centers. A stick-built 20x28 doesn't seem too wasteful. On 8 foot centers maybe, but stick or steel frame would be easier at that size. My 20x30x10 stick build was not an issue to the builder and little waste besides rafter cuts.

 

[matt_i]

I think its that they don't want to redesign the "package" with pre-drawn plans to meet your custom size.

I don't believe they are going to order the extra materials just to waste/scrap ~50% of them, rather they need more "drafting time" to work out a set of plans custom to your size, and rightfully have to get paid for that extra time.

But, I believe they would really rather you just agree to build the full package size that way no mods have to happen. So they guilt you into thinking you are losing out on "free" square footage.

Just trying to lay out how I think the actual interaction is taking place.

 

[Orionrising]

You can't just put the wall wherever you want. They are made to put the weight on one certain spot.

and whatever setbacks or other things are affecting his size would apply to the overhang as well generally. The edge of a building for setbacks is usually the dripline.

 

[Captain Spaulding]

A couple of dimensions can save a little money as long as they don’t conflict with other limits or requirements you have. On the long dimension, the truss spacing is one to watch. If trusses are spaced 8ft, then having the building a multiple of 8’ means you get your money’s worth on your trusses. If siding with metal, you generally have 3ft coverage, so multiples of 3 are most efficient.

The worst efficiency is where you need a lot more material for a small size increase. 25’ is bad because it may need an extra truss and post over 24’, and an extra sheet of metal with 2/3 thrown away.

Plus, it’s a great reason to give your wife for making the building a little bigger.

 

[greg13]

if you are going kit form, make sure it meets YOUR codes. Some kit builders design them for their codes.

 

[GRivera]

POSTS 2&3 are accurate!
Here is my 24’x32’ pole barn with a 10’ ceiling, 9’ wide doors, 6” slab. Pioneer Pole Buildings did the build two years ago and I am happy with the building.
This building is for equipment storage and unheated...... I also have a three car attached garage with radiant heat.

Nice building. Any idea why they placed the windows in a way that cut into the wainscoting edge trim rather than just above it?

 

[u2slow]

and whatever setbacks or other things are affecting his size would apply to the overhang as well generally. The edge of a building for setbacks is usually the dripline.

My zoning/building bylaws determine setback from outside foundation wall - not overhangs; and determine building square-footage by interior dimensions.

Best to follow the wording of your bylaws.