Pole barn site prep

[Daddydavesr86]

What is every opinion on site prep before or after pole barn is built.
I think it would be better and easier for my site to be prepped prior to having pole barn built.
Im just curious how poles are affected with setting in new compacted soil instead of undisturbed soil.

My site is by no means level.
Roughly 18" fall span 30' front to back.
Another 12" fall from side to side span 20'.

Thank you for any tips or advice.

 

[astroracer]

Prep the site prior to setting the posts. With the site leveled you will have no issues digging the correct depth holes as your grade is already established. Using a manual post hole digger will require a bit more effort to get through the compacted bit but it is not a show stopper by any means. A tractor mounted PHD will never see the difference.
Mark

 

[rangerfredbob]

Yeah, prep beforehand, I only had a ~10" difference but I was stubborn and only used my little tractor for the prep work, took me forever... for my plans the holes had to be 24" diameter and I think 52" deep so that was a lot of dirt to move... and was more accurate starting on flat ground.

 

[astroracer]

AND, while you are doing it set drainage tiles around the perimeter as well. Sounds like you should be splitting the distance to bring the prep up to level. If you don't and just dig out the hill you will need to dig a bigger footprint to give the building drainage around the structure. I would go at least 8' if that is your plan.
Just to ask, is your building width only 20'? That's very narrow. What are the planned uses?
Mark

 

[Captain Spaulding]

I have always prepped after. Undisturbed soil for the poles and under the floor is much better. Easy to shoot grade and figure out how tall each pole needs to be. Fill with stone after the frame is up and skirt boards are in place. No compacting needed and no settling. The extra stone is easily paid for by the savings in dirt work.

 

[MattN03]

Howdy neighbor, we're in Harrodsburg!

I did the site work first. Also, something that helped move me ahead with the builder was that I cut a driveway in all the way to the shop and had geotextile/gravel down. He was able to get to our site while he could not do other customers due to mud. Worked out great for the concrete crew also.

 

[Daddydavesr86]

AND, while you are doing it set drainage tiles around the perimeter as well. Sounds like you should be splitting the distance to bring the prep up to level. If you don't and just dig out the hill you will need to dig a bigger footprint to give the building drainage around the structure. I would go at least 8' if that is your plan.
Just to ask, is your building width only 20'? That's very narrow. What are the planned uses?
Mark

Due to easments 20' is as wide as i can go.
Over head service, septic lines, and property lines.
I would love to 24x32. Those demensions would really be pushing it. I dont want any issues with inspections or septic drainage.

Planned uses. Hobby shop.
No lift. Tinker on cars or trucks. Wood working and occasion weld projects.

 

[Daddydavesr86]

Howdy neighbor, we're in Harrodsburg!

I did the site work first. Also, something that helped move me ahead with the builder was that I cut a driveway in all the way to the shop and had geotextile/gravel down. He was able to get to our site while he could not do other customers due to mud. Worked out great for the concrete crew also.

Howdy to you. Im in Versailles not far from harrosburg. I have a Couple buddies that live in harrosburg.
The location of my shop will require a drivway extension as well. I had plan on transitioning from asphault to gravel to concrete shop floor.

 

[Daddydavesr86]

I have always prepped after. Undisturbed soil for the poles and under the floor is much better. Easy to shoot grade and figure out how tall each pole needs to be. Fill with stone after the frame is up and skirt boards are in place. No compacting needed and no settling. The extra stone is easily paid for by the savings in dirt work.

Do you remove top soil or just rock on top of existing grade.
Do you just tapper the rock outside the building to existing grass?
You can just fill grade with rock up to rat board and poor concrete?
Sorry for the green horn questions.

 

[78SC4X4]

Ok. Start here https://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=382626

You need to remove the topsoil and add/compact the correct base material.

You will also want to properly compact any build up on your site to prevent settling.

In my location, the poles must be set in 4 ft of native soil or you must have compaction testing to validate proper compaction. For 18" it is probably cheaper to just buy longer poles.

 

[Captain Spaulding]

Do you remove top soil or just rock on top of existing grade.
Do you just tapper the rock outside the building to existing grass?
You can just fill grade with rock up to rat board and poor concrete?
Sorry for the green horn questions.

Scrape the topsoil off. You just fill with rock to where it needs to be and pour. Outside stone depends on grade and where the doors are. A good stone with fines is like pouring concrete.

 

[rburke65]

Prep before....you or builders will thank you.

 

[Darinfred]

Yep! Prep before!

 

[Daddydavesr86]

Bringing this back up.
A builder i meet with says they like to put post in so that holes are undisturbed soil. These post will be taller because build up so much grade.
Makes sense.

If i do pad first and compact the rock (57). Can the augger drill through rock? Compacted rock ever 4"
Can the auggers drill 6' in spots that i graded up.

Thank you

 

[SALIV8]

My builders prepped before. Not sure why youd wait till after the building. That would be a headache.