The VISES of Garage Journal
- Thread starter mjozefow
- Start date
Yes, they were threaded. I had them out of the red one when I first got it. I don’t think taking them out is essential for cleanup, and difficult to snug back in without leaving marks, unless you have a tool that can grip round stock firmly without teeth. I used a pipe wrench, and it bit right into them. I didn’t do that to the Heritage vise. A wire wheel chucked into a hand drill can remove rust from them in place, and most of the screw, if you turn it.
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banditbigdog
Well-known member
Shiftless...Welcome to "the Franklin Club"!
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KMScott/PierceA...That Hollands vise is a mystery vise. The vise PierceA has a different base than mine and I'm not sure if it's really old or contemporary for the Hollands Mfg. Co.
Does anyone have a catalog scan of this vise?
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MayerMR...I'm pretty sure it's an old Bonney vise, maybe transitional? I found an old 1894 catalog scan with a Parker version, so that would mean Bonney only mfg. these vises for a short time? The Parker vises had a spindle collar and the traditional Parker vise jaws.
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PierceA...In my opinion, catalog and magazine illustrations are a guide and not the rule. The illustrations back then were actually carvings made by artists, so any changes would have been quite expensive to make. If you pay attention to the patent, I think you'll see it describes your vise.
If you still feel less than cozy about this vise, I'd be more than happy to make a trade for this one.
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Franklin is similar to my Canedy Otto
2.5" Canedy - Otto
Hoorn
Well-known member
Picked this up a few days ago. August 1943. Of note is there is no cast "OIL" above the dynamic jaw oil hole, there is a very light stamped "OIL".
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PierceA
Well-known member
Great Reed lineup Smitty !! I have roughly the same lineup in Parkers.. I won't go put them all in a row for a family photo right now.. LOL.
I have the Parker 200-2, a Parker 20, and a few others I can't remember right now.
I think my smallest Reed is a 3". But I do have a 104-1/2, 204-1/2 and 404-1/2. They are serious work-vises..
PierceA.
I have the Parker 200-2, a Parker 20, and a few others I can't remember right now.
I think my smallest Reed is a 3". But I do have a 104-1/2, 204-1/2 and 404-1/2. They are serious work-vises..
PierceA.
Shiftless
Well-known member
Great little Reed set you’ve put together there, Smitty!
Thanks Shift, I just got the 202 and it’s in good used shape. Here’s a couple of pics. The stamp date on the vise is 4/13
Thanks pierce, is sounds like you have a nice mini Parker vise collection. Post pics if you get a chance, I’d love to see them.
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Thanks pierce, is sounds like you have a nice mini Parker vise collection. Post pics if you get a chance, I’d love to see them.
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bigdave_185
Well-known member
tool_scrounge
Well-known member
Looking for opinion on value
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What jaw size is that Columbian 50x vise?
Edit - I suspect it is a 504 or 504 1/2
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PierceA
Well-known member
BigDave. Possible sale pricing varies hugely around the country. Look on Ebay for 'sold' prices for your Columbian 50X.
If you want an estimate from this group, you will need to show the faces of both jaws, the other side of the vise. In general, the closer to old, but un-abused or better: new or nearly new and unused.
For me? if really really nice, with pristine jaws? Maybe $200 if it's at least a 4-1/2" jaw vise. Condition is everything.. there are a LOT of Columbian vises made and for sale.. The one I have looks to be a swivel base version of your's and I paid $45 for it. It's got a few saw or file marks on the top of the jaws. Your's looks pretty clean in the one photo.
In Utah? I'm not sure if it would bring more money or not..
If you plan on flipping it do NOT paint it, just clean it with a hand wire brush and some form of lubricant/solvent like WD40.
Repainting a vise kills it's value.. Strip it naked and spray it to keep it from rusting if anything. Nothing kills interest in a nice tool more than a thick layer of shiny new paint that usually hides cracks, filler, bad rust etc.
PierceA..
If you want an estimate from this group, you will need to show the faces of both jaws, the other side of the vise. In general, the closer to old, but un-abused or better: new or nearly new and unused.
For me? if really really nice, with pristine jaws? Maybe $200 if it's at least a 4-1/2" jaw vise. Condition is everything.. there are a LOT of Columbian vises made and for sale.. The one I have looks to be a swivel base version of your's and I paid $45 for it. It's got a few saw or file marks on the top of the jaws. Your's looks pretty clean in the one photo.
In Utah? I'm not sure if it would bring more money or not..
If you plan on flipping it do NOT paint it, just clean it with a hand wire brush and some form of lubricant/solvent like WD40.
Repainting a vise kills it's value.. Strip it naked and spray it to keep it from rusting if anything. Nothing kills interest in a nice tool more than a thick layer of shiny new paint that usually hides cracks, filler, bad rust etc.
PierceA..
bigdave_185
Well-known member
Ol farmer has it listed for $70 with the stand, I have gone and looked personally, didn’t want to wast time on it if it was over priced,
I did do some eBay looking but didn’t know about the “ sold “ function I’ll get on that part.
I don’t know if I’d flip it or what at this point. I’m pretty deep in to that monarch I got for a charity purchase, between the broken tail mount, new vise jaws, and the amount of wobble it has.
Mayb I’ll go see how tight it is and see if I can talk him down
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I did do some eBay looking but didn’t know about the “ sold “ function I’ll get on that part.
I don’t know if I’d flip it or what at this point. I’m pretty deep in to that monarch I got for a charity purchase, between the broken tail mount, new vise jaws, and the amount of wobble it has.
Mayb I’ll go see how tight it is and see if I can talk him down
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bigdave_185
Well-known member
Just checked the listing. She’s gone anyway
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dannyr
Well-known member
Your's looks pretty clean in the one photo.
In Utah? I'm not sure if it would bring more money or not..
If you plan on flipping it do NOT paint it, just clean it with a hand wire brush and some form of lubricant/solvent like WD40.
Repainting a vise kills it's value.. Strip it naked and spray it to keep it from rusting if anything. Nothing kills interest in a nice tool more than a thick layer of shiny new paint that usually hides cracks, filler, bad rust etc.
PierceA..[/QUOTE]
Interesting points -- I started looking at this thread a few years ago and there were many fine repaints (and some less so) whereas now I see more 'strip-right-down-and-oil', yet some brands, eg Wiltons seem to be more often repainted or kept in original even if chipped/flaked.
In the end it's your vise, so you decide, and the thread's mostly not about flipping.
Personally, for a good vise, I tend to give a hand scrape and wirebrush, and then a thin paint coat in something like the original color. - the paint won't last forever but is thin enough for any future owner to strip off easily - and of course don't paint any sliding machined surfaces, boss, tommy bar, bolts etc. But this approach seems out of style.
Anyhow, I'm in Sheffield England, where there's not such a keen 'market', and only a very few models making anything like US $$.
BTW Pierce A, what finish for a good Pierce Arrow?
In Utah? I'm not sure if it would bring more money or not..
If you plan on flipping it do NOT paint it, just clean it with a hand wire brush and some form of lubricant/solvent like WD40.
Repainting a vise kills it's value.. Strip it naked and spray it to keep it from rusting if anything. Nothing kills interest in a nice tool more than a thick layer of shiny new paint that usually hides cracks, filler, bad rust etc.
PierceA..[/QUOTE]
Interesting points -- I started looking at this thread a few years ago and there were many fine repaints (and some less so) whereas now I see more 'strip-right-down-and-oil', yet some brands, eg Wiltons seem to be more often repainted or kept in original even if chipped/flaked.
In the end it's your vise, so you decide, and the thread's mostly not about flipping.
Personally, for a good vise, I tend to give a hand scrape and wirebrush, and then a thin paint coat in something like the original color. - the paint won't last forever but is thin enough for any future owner to strip off easily - and of course don't paint any sliding machined surfaces, boss, tommy bar, bolts etc. But this approach seems out of style.
Anyhow, I'm in Sheffield England, where there's not such a keen 'market', and only a very few models making anything like US $$.
BTW Pierce A, what finish for a good Pierce Arrow?
tool_scrounge
Well-known member
I sold a Columbian 504 1/2 vise a couple of years back for $60 for reference. Really nice shape mechanically with some paint issues. Must have sold it a bit cheap as new owner called me back profusely thanking me for selling it to him. I am really just glad it went to a nice home.
The way vise prices have gone up lately, $70 would be a good price around here.
Outlawmws
Well-known member
If you document the bare vise after cleanup and post those pics with the painted, then there should be NO issues with painting for sale.
Some vises can GAIN value if painted the "right" color. -For example the favorite colors for SO on certain Wilton vises, and even getting the labels can dramatically increase the price - Many just want to buy a turn-key vise.
Some vises can GAIN value if painted the "right" color. -For example the favorite colors for SO on certain Wilton vises, and even getting the labels can dramatically increase the price - Many just want to buy a turn-key vise.
GETRIDAONE
Well-known member
https://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showpost.php?p=8969439&postcount=203
This was in the blacksmth vise section. I thought it would get more exposure over here. A quick look around I didn't see any info on this Lewis Tool model No. 64 or 84 ?
This was in the blacksmth vise section. I thought it would get more exposure over here. A quick look around I didn't see any info on this Lewis Tool model No. 64 or 84 ?
PierceA
Well-known member
For a Pierce Arrow? I like single stage acrylic lacquer if I can find it.. as a last resort I'll use base coat-clear coat. BUT the base coat-clear coat often looks way, way too modern.
Makes the cars look like it was dipped in plastic. And that is NOT what cars of the day looked like.
But the steel preparation, sealers and primers I use and prefer are the modern ones that don't shrink, and crack with age. Lacquer paint will eventually crack and craze.
Same with interiors: Leather over padding or wool broadcloth over padding, and the padding CANNOT be foam.. or it shows by being perfectly level, it is obvious when comparing to a properly padded with cotton batting seat cushion.
You don't want the interior to look like it came from a Mercedes or Cadillac, or Lexus..
PierceA.
Makes the cars look like it was dipped in plastic. And that is NOT what cars of the day looked like.
But the steel preparation, sealers and primers I use and prefer are the modern ones that don't shrink, and crack with age. Lacquer paint will eventually crack and craze.
Same with interiors: Leather over padding or wool broadcloth over padding, and the padding CANNOT be foam.. or it shows by being perfectly level, it is obvious when comparing to a properly padded with cotton batting seat cushion.
You don't want the interior to look like it came from a Mercedes or Cadillac, or Lexus..
PierceA.
va.grouseman
Well-known member
Get, this is one of those Lewis's with the pipe jaws but I could never make out the model #.---I have the pipe jaws to go with it also.---Pipe jaws are 3'' by 4''.---I guess if I took the time to remove the 1/4''s of paint, the # might come in view.
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PierceA
Well-known member
Outlaw: I agree totally, I often ask a seller if he has 'before' photos of a heavily painted vise or tool..
And for sure there ARE unscrupulous sellers that are hiding flaws, cracks etc..
or those who hide flaws with carefully taken photos to not show missing parts, or show welds etc..
PierceA
And for sure there ARE unscrupulous sellers that are hiding flaws, cracks etc..
or those who hide flaws with carefully taken photos to not show missing parts, or show welds etc..
PierceA
cretedog
ALLIANCE MEMBER
va.grouseman
Well-known member
Which one of these do you think will fetch the most?
https://www.ebay.com/itm/RARE-Small...-Watchmakers-Swivel-Bench-Vise-2/303896442446
https://www.ebay.com/itm/Lewis-Tool...r-Open-Screw-Vintage-Swivel-Vise/274560193180
https://www.ebay.com/itm/RARE-Small...-Watchmakers-Swivel-Bench-Vise-2/303896442446
https://www.ebay.com/itm/Lewis-Tool...r-Open-Screw-Vintage-Swivel-Vise/274560193180
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va.grouseman
Well-known member
Real nice bunch of iron Crete.---Super job on the Vanderman.---Is that Arrest Me Red?
Machinitect
Well-known member
The 2 incher and it won’t be close.
Fierljeppen
Well-known member
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Get, this is one of those Lewis's with the pipe jaws but I could never make out the model #.---I have the pipe jaws to go with it also.---Pipe jaws are 3'' by 4''.---I guess if I took the time to remove the 1/4''s of paint, the # might come in view.
Very nice! That Lewis Tool Co. combination vise is very rare with or without the pipe jaws. Please use the catalog scan below to determine the model no. and get that one in the spreadsheet.
I continue to be amazed with your ever so eclectic vise collection. You must have picked a lot of these vises up before vise collecting became so popular.
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dannyr
Well-known member
It's a light clean and a thin coat of paint - close to what I thought the original colors were - here's my approx 130-year-old quick release Parkinson's Perfect 6 1/2 inch (with replacement jaw faces 7inch) later called model 9 or 9A - weighs near 150lbs on a Parkinson's adjustable height stand (see adjuster) about 100 years old and over 200lbs. Keepers, but only have enough room outdoors, so next move is a fitted tarp cover. Both bought from factory closures within 20 miles of where they were made.
Looks a bit top heavy in this photo, but that's distortion from a wide lens.
Looks a bit top heavy in this photo, but that's distortion from a wide lens.
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CRSINMICH
Well-known member
FOR WHAT IT'S WORTH: Mortimer Lewis had at least two vise patents. One in 1892 for that distinctive style vise and another in 1894 for that signature swivel pin.
dannyr: That vice (didn't Parkinson spell it VISE?) and that stand are almost too cool for words.
dannyr: That vice (didn't Parkinson spell it VISE?) and that stand are almost too cool for words.
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Spent my Sunday cleaning up a rarely seen Morgan vise no. 360B, it has 6” jaws and weighs in at 164 lbs. I got this vise at a flea market last summer and finally got to it. I stripped the old paint and used a cup brush on an angle grinder for the final clean up. After a long five hours I finished it with BLO. The vintage Morgan cast iron really took well to a natural finish.
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dannyr
Well-known member
Thanks for your kind words, crs, You are right about VISE, but one thing (also the logo and the two casting static) that marks this as a Parky from their first years is that on this one it's spelled/spelt VICE.
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dutchgray
Well-known member
Very nice, the chances of finding one of those down south is very low as we never had the industry to begin with, you are definitely in the right place to find cool stuff like that.
Though I do have a 9a.
dannyr
Well-known member
Thanks dutch - almost all my really old/interesting big vise finds have been within 40 miles of Bradford - and older than the Parky are some heavy (non-QR) woodworking vises that I'll show sometime when a bit more 'sorted'. (right here in Sheffield they seem to have stuck with blacksmith-type leg vises in the big works until much later)
However I do believe you may have the one of the best vise/vice collections in the UK.
Nice stripdown and cleanup of a fine big swivel/swivel, smitty, - what date? (but I keep looking at the background of a great workshop and glimpses of some of your collection.)
However I do believe you may have the one of the best vise/vice collections in the UK.
Nice stripdown and cleanup of a fine big swivel/swivel, smitty, - what date? (but I keep looking at the background of a great workshop and glimpses of some of your collection.)
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MadeByMiller
Well-known member
Wonderful Morgan! I just finished the cleanup of my Morgan 360 as well. Interesting to see the differences between our vises. In my original thread, it was concluded that American Scale most likely built my 360 for Morgan. https://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=429615
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Eddie H
Member
Picked up a Baby Wilton Monday Evening, actually the gentleman brought It by and we made a deal.
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MadeByMiller...I think Dave got it right about American Scale being the original maker of your vise. Your Morgan looks like it’s in beautiful condition and you did a great job restoring it. Now I have to wonder which came first?
MadeByMiller
Well-known member
It's a pleasure to use, especially after my refresh job. I would like to know as well which came first. If I had to guess, I would say mine is slightly earlier and perhaps prior to Morgan tooling up to make their 360 in house. Both being Chicago models to my knowledge dates them between 1929-1947.
PierceA
Well-known member
Crete; That is a great collection of 'toe-stabbers' !! They all look like they are in great condition. Nice rack for them too!!
PierceA
PierceA