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Shop is bigger than the house!! Layout help needed.

bmcneil

Member
Joined
Mar 2, 2021
Messages
11
Location
NE Nevada
I've been lurking for years and read a lot of the shop threads in the last year or so. Now it's finally my turn!

BLUF: Wife and I bought a 1400 sq ft house and now are building a 2400 sq ft shop. We need help with Shop layout in relation to yard, garage door placement, and 2 post lift placement.

The wife and I bought our first house in October and now we need to finalize shop layout and placement before lumber and steel get any higher. I plan on documenting my shop build on here; however, I'm horrible about taking pictures. To go along with the title, the house is 1400 sq feet and the shop will be 2400 sq feet. The wife is excited about the shop and can't wait for it to be built since she'll be able to park in the 2 car garage and we can start working on my FJ40 and building our race truck.

I need your help with the following items. Placement/orientation in yard, Garage door placement ((3)16x14 overhead doors), and (1) 2 post 12k lift.

The plan is a 40x60x16 foot shop that will be used for storage, a craft/painting room, and for fabrication and repair. It will be insulated and heated via in floor radiant.

The imagery is of our 1.1 acres. 200' across the back and 260' down the sids. The red line shows where the edge of the grass is now, as the previous owner didn't want to pay the high water costs for such a "large" grassed area. The house footprint when you include the garage and make it rectangle instead of a "H" is 38.5' by 59' (do not include the deck and patio) if that helps visually.

Shop Plan - Aerial Imagery.jpg

The drawing is to scale with the yellow rectangle being 40x60. The only thing that is off is the property line angle, it's closer to 90*, but the measurements off the side property line to the grass are correct. The dashed line inside the property line is the stand-off required by the county. It's 30 from the rear property line and 20 feet from the side property lines.

Yard Layout for Shop.jpg

There will be a "craft/painting" room for the wife that's 10x16. I'd like to put a 10x10 "clean" room next to it for engine and shock building. This will also create a nice mezzanine for storage.

No bathroom since I don't want to pay to install a new septic tank and the septic tank is on the opposite side of the yard. However, it will have a floor drain and 4 spigots, the county doesn't require that to go into a septic or oil/grease separator unless the building is for commercial use.

For the layout in respect to the yard, I'd like to be able to pull through, but I don't see that happening with a trailer. The property next to us is a rental and they said they'd get me the owners contact info to see if they would be willing to allow an easement so that we can use the driveway to their shop. I do not want to lose of any more of the grass area, so door placement needs to be taken into consideration there. I'd also really like to be able to see most of the doors from the house for security reasons and then I can also work with at least one door open for the wife and dogs be able to easily walk back and forth and such.

For the shop layout, I'm thinking the doors in a "T" if the pull through is really that important? The pull through would be closest to the back fence (one door to the front, and then the other two doors facing the sides of the yard). If I do that, where should I put the lift? My F-350 CCLB will live in the shop most of the time. The two trailers (20' open deck car hauler and 8x26 enclosed) will be stored outdoors.

Any other advice? I can't be too picky about free advice, right?

Thanks for the help, I've been staring the pictures and my backyard (which I've staked out the shop dimensions and setbacks) for a month now and still can't make up my mind.

BM
 
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bmcneil

Member
Joined
Mar 2, 2021
Messages
11
Location
NE Nevada
A little more info on the planned shop/garage/hobby area.

40'x60'x16' either a Pole Building or Red Iron
5' Overhang on the side facing the house (if that's a 60' side; if not, it will be the 60' side facing the front of the property)
10'x20' porch outside the craft room entrance
30'x20' Driveway in front
20'x10' Driveway in front of the other (2) garage doors
5 - 6'x3' windows (Color: white)
3 - 16'x14' insulated doors (Color: white)
2 - 4'x7' man entry door
1 - Sliding glass door into Craft room
1 - 10' roof vent
2 - 4'x3' adjustable louvered vents at gables (1) will have a fan for exhaust
6" concrete inside and driveways
4" concrete on porch
Garage Door Openers
6'x6' exterior compressor room or 6'x8' Compressor/Boiler room inside
10'x16' Interior crafting/painting room
10'x10' engine and shock building/storage room
10'x26' storage mezzanine above craft/engine rooms
In floor radiant heat (not sure on boiler yet)
Either a mini split or Wall A/C unit for the craft and engine rooms
200 amp 240 volt single phase electrical service. (Need to check and see what the price difference and availability of 3 phase is.)
1 - 2 post 12k vehicle lift
4 - water spigots w/hot and cold water at each
Floor drain
Siding: Gray
Gutters: White
Roof: White ??
Trim: White

Thanks,
BM
 

mikegt4

Well-known member
Joined
Sep 12, 2005
Messages
3,271
Location
sw ohio
Shop is bigger than the house!! This must be waayyy out in the country, most places have a house to shop sq. footage ratio in their building/zoning codes. Have you checked?
 
OP
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bmcneil

Member
Joined
Mar 2, 2021
Messages
11
Location
NE Nevada
Definitely not waayyy out in the country. However, we are zoned Agricultural Residential. I've already talked to the County planning and zoning and they said I'm good up to 5,000 sq feet, anything over than I just have to call a "barn" or "arena".

Shop is bigger than the house!! This must be waayyy out in the country, most places have a house to shop sq. footage ratio in their building/zoning codes. Have you checked?

BM
 

Falcon67

Well-known member
Joined
Jun 11, 2009
Messages
18,371
Location
Merkel, TX
Definitely not waayyy out in the country. However, we are zoned Agricultural Residential. I've already talked to the County planning and zoning and they said I'm good up to 5,000 sq feet, anything over than I just have to call a "barn" or "arena".

BM

I see this in NM - zoning "R1" is single family residential permits a wide swing

"Accessory buildings shall not exceed 75% of the size of the primary house or 15% of the lot area, whichever is greater;"

Land on a 1/2 acre and go to town LOL. Can be found with city water and sewer in places like Rio Rancho and such.
 

p00p

Well-known member
Joined
Nov 23, 2019
Messages
1,997
Location
42.4974° N, 82.8964° W
wow, I want to move now & go there!


OP:
Find center to the rear of the house, place the new building as far to the left & as close to the house you legally can go according to the picture you sketched up. If there are no limits on how far to the house you must build away from, then use your judgement.
 
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bmcneil

Member
Joined
Mar 2, 2021
Messages
11
Location
NE Nevada
Thanks! The more I keep looking at the drawing and photo and staring at my yard, the more I think maybe I should rotate the structure 90* from how it is on the drawing. Put 2 bay doors facing the street and then 1 on the short side facing towards the house.

I keep playing around with floor layouts and I think I'm just making it harder on myself.

BM
 
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bmcneil

Member
Joined
Mar 2, 2021
Messages
11
Location
NE Nevada
IMHO, Projects such as yours always take longer, and cost more, than estimated.

Oh, I know. I had factored in 30% to cover the little unexpected things, I didn't expect that to almost entirely get wiped out by the drastic increase in material costs.

BM
 
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bmcneil

Member
Joined
Mar 2, 2021
Messages
11
Location
NE Nevada
Question on mezzanine design.

The mezzanine will be 10' x26' and will be located above the Craft/Art and Engine/Shock rooms. Designing for a live load of 100psf and dead load of 15 psf. Using the SpanCalc app it looks like I can use Doug Fir #1 for the 10' joists if they are 2x10's on 16" spacing and that will support a live load of 100psf and a dead load of 15psf. The app doesn't allow you to choose a live load higher than 100psf and I highly doubt that I will ever hit the 100psf, but I want to be able to store heavy stuff up there without any worries.

The real question is, do I need build the 8' walls for the two rooms out 2x6s or will 2x4s be sufficient?

Here is the current layout for the shop.

Shop 45x55 - resized.jpg

@bczygan
 

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Worsedog

Well-known member
Joined
Mar 2, 2008
Messages
1,511
Location
Central FL
After a quick read through only two things I have an opinion on, and it's just that.

1. I would bite the bullet and at least do a sink and commode, it's a lot nicer not running in to the house to **** and cleaning up after being greasy is a lot nicer with warm water. Mine also has a shower and I wouldn't trade it for anything.

2. Not sure what traffic is like on that road and crime is like in your area, but if you do a significant amount of work with the doors open, having them not visible from the street is a good idea. I had a well wooded empty lot between mine and a feeder road into multiple neighborhoods and never had nosy trespassers. Within six months of my new neighbor clearing and building his house, I had a few "lookers" on my property.
 

Craig Balzer

Well-known member
Joined
Sep 21, 2005
Messages
863
Location
Colorado Springs
I am finishing up a 2300 SqFt Hobby Shop and am starting to populate it with stuff. What stuff? How is it all gonna fit? See below (sorry -- my OCD kicked in and I got pretty detailed):

GENERAL
• Build as big as you can afford/fit on your property (or you'll regret it).
• You gotta know your plan inside and out – when the builder asks to move something elsewhere, only you can visualize the impact on other things / stuff
• Be flexible when reality shows up – also be true to your overall plan
• Windows? PRO: natural light – CON: entry point for a$$holes
• Skylight(s)? PRO: natural light – CON: then no attic
• Keep the building dimensions in multiples of 4 feet – reduces wastage of wood
• A mezzanine is good for long-time storage of large or awkward items; plan for where the staircase is gonna be placed; plan how to get heavy items up there and back down

FLOOR
• Gonna place light(s) in floor under lift??
• First thing you lay down is 10 mil vapor barrier
• Then closed-cell insulation – 2 inches thick
• In-floor tubing goes in before concrete pour – plan carefully if a lift is planned. Should be thicker concrete and limited pex tubing near posts
• Thickness? 4” works. Except under lift – my pour was 9-12 inches thick under posts.
• Plan now for smoothness of finish on concrete - - epoxy covering?
• Gonna wash cars in there – floor drain(s)? Lot’s of environmental issues to learn
• Lay some plastic conduit in the floor before concrete is poured from the circuit box to the three walls to allow future wiring to be run without tearing into walls or mounting conduit on the walls

WALLS
• 2x4 vs 2x6 construction. A 2x6 is pennies more per board and allows thicker insulation
• I have R19 in my walls (Colorado) and the building is noticeably cooler this summer and stays warm in winter during sub-freezing temps
• I have R49 blown-in above the ceiling
• Sheath with OSB vs Dry Wall. Dry wall looks prettier but to hang anything heavy requirements finding a stud or two. OSB has more industrial appearance but a shelf goes wherever you want to put it
• Windows – already covered
• Height of walls? 12 or 13’ allows most lifts to fit (I have 14’ ceilings in main room)
• Tall walls require more heating capacity, and costs more to heat

ELECTRICAL
• Plan where your 110v outlets are gonna be, then add 50% more of them (mine are 4 feet apart except where a window gets in the way)
• Are you gonna use 15- or 20-Amp circuits? (different wiring requirements and different fixtures)
• Place them 45-48” above the floor level so they aren’t hidden later by benches, toolboxes, etc
• Plan for outlet(s) on the exterior of each wall
• Plan for outlet(s) in ceiling for lift or drop light or other
• Plan for outlet(s) in ceiling for garage door opener
• Plan for outlets up high on wall: wall clock, TV, modern “smart” speakers, other
• Lights – fluorescent or LED? Dimmable? Dimmable LEDs are available and require different wiring and dimming switch
• Plan for exterior lights – Colorado Code requires a light above each man-door opening
• Plan for exterior lights – gonna have a patio nearby or BarBQ pit or horseshoe pit or Christmas lights?
• Plan for dedicated circuit for heater
• Plan for dedicated circuit for water heater
• Now plan where circuits are gonna start. Each can handle 8-10 outlets and each should start with a GFIC outlet
• Plan where your 220v outlets are gonna be. Consider welders, air compressor, lift, oven (powder coating), special tools, etc. Even if you won’t have these until the future, plan now to power them

WATER
• Gonna have water in the garage? A sink to wash up before going into the house is priceless
• Gonna have water in garage? A sink to wash parts is useful
• A shower is priceless to avoid getting SWMBO’s towels and linens filthy
• Toilet?
• Hot water is nice to wash cars in the winter
• Plan a hose bibb on at least one exterior wall and maybe one inside

A/C

HEAT
• Gonna use in-floor PEX? -- see notes on concrete.
• If not, propane or electric heater will need power and proper placement
• See comments re height of walls

STUFF
What toys do you have? Do you plan to have? Sketch your floor plan to scale on gridded paper; don’t forget windows and doors. And then, to scale, place your toys. All of them. The easy ones are toolbox(es), benches, welders, air compressor, and the like. Did you remember to ID a place to store floor jacks? Creeper? Jack stands? Ladder(s)?

Find a place for place everything:
o Welder
o Plasma Cutter
o Grinder
o Polisher / Buffer
o Powder Coating Oven
o Blast Cabinet
o Parts Washer
o Microwave
o Refrigerator
o Charging station for cordless tools
o Desk lamp
o TV
o Stereo
o Computer
o Phone
o Wall Art / Neon signs
o Other

Expanded details:
STORAGE
• Plan cabinet(s) to store hardware (nuts, bolts, washers, this and that)
• Plan cabinet(s) to store supplies, such as (paint, cleaners, paper towels, etc)

FLUIDS for the car
• Oil
• Oil Filters
• Fuel Filter(s)
• Gear Lube
• Differential Lube/Additive
• ATF
• Brake fluid
• Anti-Freeze
• Power Steering Fluid
• Marvel Mystery Oil
• Starting Fluid
• Lacquer Thinner
• Grease for ball joints/tie rod ends etc

CLEANING yourself
• Hand Cleaner
• Latex (or Nitrile) Gloves
• Shop Towels

CLEANERS for the Car/Engine/Garage/Floor
• Castrol Concentrated Cleaner
• Engine Cleaner
• Brake Cleaner
• Carb Cleaner
• Rust Remover
• Brushable Rustoleum
• Degreaser
• Acetone
• Mineral Spirits

BEAUTY PRODUCTS
• Polish
• Wax
• Touch-up paint
• Chrome Cleaner
• Chrome Kleener (Autosol)

WORKING on the Car
• Di-electric grease
• Bearing Grease
• 3-1 oil
• Silicon Spray
• Anti-seize compound
• Loctite
• Teflon tape
• Acousti-Seal, Exhaust System Sealing Compound
• Wellseal Gasket Compound / Gasket sealer
• Wire of various colors and sizes
• Electrical Connectors
• Masking Tape
• Duct Tape
• Electric Tape
• Contact Cement
• 3M Weather-strip Adhesive
• General Purpose Adhesive Solvent Part #: 051135-08984
• 3M Adhesive Remover (Ronson lighter fluid)
• PB Blaster or Kroil -or Knock’er Loose
• Wire ties
• Mechanic's wire
• Cotter pins
• C-clips
• E-clips
• Snap rings
• Hose clamps
• Roloc pads/grinding discs
• Die-grinder burrs/bits
• Buffing wheels/compound
• Razor blades
• Utility knife blades
• Sandpaper
• Emory cloth
• Scotch-brite
• Grease fittings
• Fuel line/brake line and fittings
• Rubber hose: windshield washer, heater, radiator, fuel, vacuum
• Spray paint
• JB Weld

Hope this helps -- maybe some more tips in my build thread
Craig
https://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=432775
 

imjustdave

Well-known member
Joined
Apr 9, 2014
Messages
204
Location
Sumner WA
Definitely not waayyy out in the country. However, we are zoned Agricultural Residential. I've already talked to the County planning and zoning and they said I'm good up to 5,000 sq feet, anything over than I just have to call a "barn" or "arena".



BM

I live in a city and only rule is max 45% covered area on property covered area is considered roof line :)
But we have funky height rules... cost me $20k and a nice neighbor willing to sell some land to avoid said height rules. So for every cool thing 1 person has there is always another ah snap.
 

imjustdave

Well-known member
Joined
Apr 9, 2014
Messages
204
Location
Sumner WA
I've been lurking for years and read a lot of the shop threads in the last year or so. Now it's finally my turn!

BLUF: Wife and I bought a 1400 sq ft house and now are building a 2400 sq ft shop. We need help with Shop layout in relation to yard, garage door placement, and 2 post lift placement.

The wife and I bought our first house in October and now we need to finalize shop layout and placement before lumber and steel get any higher. I plan on documenting my shop build on here; however, I'm horrible about taking pictures. To go along with the title, the house is 1400 sq feet and the shop will be 2400 sq feet. The wife is excited about the shop and can't wait for it to be built since she'll be able to park in the 2 car garage and we can start working on my FJ40 and building our race truck.

I need your help with the following items. Placement/orientation in yard, Garage door placement ((3)16x14 overhead doors), and (1) 2 post 12k lift.

The plan is a 40x60x16 foot shop that will be used for storage, a craft/painting room, and for fabrication and repair. It will be insulated and heated via in floor radiant.

The imagery is of our 1.1 acres. 200' across the back and 260' down the sids. The red line shows where the edge of the grass is now, as the previous owner didn't want to pay the high water costs for such a "large" grassed area. The house footprint when you include the garage and make it rectangle instead of a "H" is 38.5' by 59' (do not include the deck and patio) if that helps visually.

Shop Plan - Aerial Imagery.jpg

The drawing is to scale with the yellow rectangle being 40x60. The only thing that is off is the property line angle, it's closer to 90*, but the measurements off the side property line to the grass are correct. The dashed line inside the property line is the stand-off required by the county. It's 30 from the rear property line and 20 feet from the side property lines.

Yard Layout for Shop.jpg

There will be a "craft/painting" room for the wife that's 10x16. I'd like to put a 10x10 "clean" room next to it for engine and shock building. This will also create a nice mezzanine for storage.

No bathroom since I don't want to pay to install a new septic tank and the septic tank is on the opposite side of the yard. However, it will have a floor drain and 4 spigots, the county doesn't require that to go into a septic or oil/grease separator unless the building is for commercial use.

For the layout in respect to the yard, I'd like to be able to pull through, but I don't see that happening with a trailer. The property next to us is a rental and they said they'd get me the owners contact info to see if they would be willing to allow an easement so that we can use the driveway to their shop. I do not want to lose of any more of the grass area, so door placement needs to be taken into consideration there. I'd also really like to be able to see most of the doors from the house for security reasons and then I can also work with at least one door open for the wife and dogs be able to easily walk back and forth and such.

For the shop layout, I'm thinking the doors in a "T" if the pull through is really that important? The pull through would be closest to the back fence (one door to the front, and then the other two doors facing the sides of the yard). If I do that, where should I put the lift? My F-350 CCLB will live in the shop most of the time. The two trailers (20' open deck car hauler and 8x26 enclosed) will be stored outdoors.

Any other advice? I can't be too picky about free advice, right?

Thanks for the help, I've been staring the pictures and my backyard (which I've staked out the shop dimensions and setbacks) for a month now and still can't make up my mind.

BM

Not sure I follow your drawing with the google map image and how that all relates to the green grass. Been a long day, I sort of think the drawing is flipped 180 compared to the google shot. I understand you have 20 and 300 foot setbacks Can you park in those setbacks? can they be a driveway?
I like the idea of not showing the world what you have with the door is open if possible, My soon to be new garage I can't do that with.
 

Mthomas1686

Well-known member
Joined
Sep 28, 2020
Messages
84
Location
My house, New Jersey
I am finishing up a 2300 SqFt Hobby Shop and am starting to populate it with stuff. What stuff? How is it all gonna fit? See below (sorry -- my OCD kicked in and I got pretty detailed):

GENERAL
• Build as big as you can afford/fit on your property (or you'll regret it).
• You gotta know your plan inside and out – when the builder asks to move something elsewhere, only you can visualize the impact on other things / stuff
• Be flexible when reality shows up – also be true to your overall plan
• Windows? PRO: natural light – CON: entry point for a$$holes
• Skylight(s)? PRO: natural light – CON: then no attic
• Keep the building dimensions in multiples of 4 feet – reduces wastage of wood
• A mezzanine is good for long-time storage of large or awkward items; plan for where the staircase is gonna be placed; plan how to get heavy items up there and back down

FLOOR
• Gonna place light(s) in floor under lift??
• First thing you lay down is 10 mil vapor barrier
• Then closed-cell insulation – 2 inches thick
• In-floor tubing goes in before concrete pour – plan carefully if a lift is planned. Should be thicker concrete and limited pex tubing near posts
• Thickness? 4” works. Except under lift – my pour was 9-12 inches thick under posts.
• Plan now for smoothness of finish on concrete - - epoxy covering?
• Gonna wash cars in there – floor drain(s)? Lot’s of environmental issues to learn
• Lay some plastic conduit in the floor before concrete is poured from the circuit box to the three walls to allow future wiring to be run without tearing into walls or mounting conduit on the walls

WALLS
• 2x4 vs 2x6 construction. A 2x6 is pennies more per board and allows thicker insulation
• I have R19 in my walls (Colorado) and the building is noticeably cooler this summer and stays warm in winter during sub-freezing temps
• I have R49 blown-in above the ceiling
• Sheath with OSB vs Dry Wall. Dry wall looks prettier but to hang anything heavy requirements finding a stud or two. OSB has more industrial appearance but a shelf goes wherever you want to put it
• Windows – already covered
• Height of walls? 12 or 13’ allows most lifts to fit (I have 14’ ceilings in main room)
• Tall walls require more heating capacity, and costs more to heat

ELECTRICAL
• Plan where your 110v outlets are gonna be, then add 50% more of them (mine are 4 feet apart except where a window gets in the way)
• Are you gonna use 15- or 20-Amp circuits? (different wiring requirements and different fixtures)
• Place them 45-48” above the floor level so they aren’t hidden later by benches, toolboxes, etc
• Plan for outlet(s) on the exterior of each wall
• Plan for outlet(s) in ceiling for lift or drop light or other
• Plan for outlet(s) in ceiling for garage door opener
• Plan for outlets up high on wall: wall clock, TV, modern “smart” speakers, other
• Lights – fluorescent or LED? Dimmable? Dimmable LEDs are available and require different wiring and dimming switch
• Plan for exterior lights – Colorado Code requires a light above each man-door opening
• Plan for exterior lights – gonna have a patio nearby or BarBQ pit or horseshoe pit or Christmas lights?
• Plan for dedicated circuit for heater
• Plan for dedicated circuit for water heater
• Now plan where circuits are gonna start. Each can handle 8-10 outlets and each should start with a GFIC outlet
• Plan where your 220v outlets are gonna be. Consider welders, air compressor, lift, oven (powder coating), special tools, etc. Even if you won’t have these until the future, plan now to power them

WATER
• Gonna have water in the garage? A sink to wash up before going into the house is priceless
• Gonna have water in garage? A sink to wash parts is useful
• A shower is priceless to avoid getting SWMBO’s towels and linens filthy
• Toilet?
• Hot water is nice to wash cars in the winter
• Plan a hose bibb on at least one exterior wall and maybe one inside

A/C

HEAT
• Gonna use in-floor PEX? -- see notes on concrete.
• If not, propane or electric heater will need power and proper placement
• See comments re height of walls

STUFF
What toys do you have? Do you plan to have? Sketch your floor plan to scale on gridded paper; don’t forget windows and doors. And then, to scale, place your toys. All of them. The easy ones are toolbox(es), benches, welders, air compressor, and the like. Did you remember to ID a place to store floor jacks? Creeper? Jack stands? Ladder(s)?

Find a place for place everything:
o Welder
o Plasma Cutter
o Grinder
o Polisher / Buffer
o Powder Coating Oven
o Blast Cabinet
o Parts Washer
o Microwave
o Refrigerator
o Charging station for cordless tools
o Desk lamp
o TV
o Stereo
o Computer
o Phone
o Wall Art / Neon signs
o Other

Expanded details:
STORAGE
• Plan cabinet(s) to store hardware (nuts, bolts, washers, this and that)
• Plan cabinet(s) to store supplies, such as (paint, cleaners, paper towels, etc)

FLUIDS for the car
• Oil
• Oil Filters
• Fuel Filter(s)
• Gear Lube
• Differential Lube/Additive
• ATF
• Brake fluid
• Anti-Freeze
• Power Steering Fluid
• Marvel Mystery Oil
• Starting Fluid
• Lacquer Thinner
• Grease for ball joints/tie rod ends etc

CLEANING yourself
• Hand Cleaner
• Latex (or Nitrile) Gloves
• Shop Towels

CLEANERS for the Car/Engine/Garage/Floor
• Castrol Concentrated Cleaner
• Engine Cleaner
• Brake Cleaner
• Carb Cleaner
• Rust Remover
• Brushable Rustoleum
• Degreaser
• Acetone
• Mineral Spirits

BEAUTY PRODUCTS
• Polish
• Wax
• Touch-up paint
• Chrome Cleaner
• Chrome Kleener (Autosol)

WORKING on the Car
• Di-electric grease
• Bearing Grease
• 3-1 oil
• Silicon Spray
• Anti-seize compound
• Loctite
• Teflon tape
• Acousti-Seal, Exhaust System Sealing Compound
• Wellseal Gasket Compound / Gasket sealer
• Wire of various colors and sizes
• Electrical Connectors
• Masking Tape
• Duct Tape
• Electric Tape
• Contact Cement
• 3M Weather-strip Adhesive
• General Purpose Adhesive Solvent Part #: 051135-08984
• 3M Adhesive Remover (Ronson lighter fluid)
• PB Blaster or Kroil -or Knock’er Loose
• Wire ties
• Mechanic's wire
• Cotter pins
• C-clips
• E-clips
• Snap rings
• Hose clamps
• Roloc pads/grinding discs
• Die-grinder burrs/bits
• Buffing wheels/compound
• Razor blades
• Utility knife blades
• Sandpaper
• Emory cloth
• Scotch-brite
• Grease fittings
• Fuel line/brake line and fittings
• Rubber hose: windshield washer, heater, radiator, fuel, vacuum
• Spray paint
• JB Weld

Hope this helps -- maybe some more tips in my build thread
Craig
https://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=432775


Literally everything you need haha.....but seriously though.
 
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