What's your preferred general-purpose wood glue?

[dwasifar]

I've always just used regular red-label Titebond, but the guy over at Project Farm tested out a bunch of glues and recommended Titebond 2, Titebond 3, or Elmer's Max.

So it's got me considering switching to a "better" glue, but I figure there's got to be a tradeoff besides cost here. Open time, workability, cleanup, paint/stainability, something. I've used Titebond 3 in the past but only when I specifically needed waterproof glue; I never used it on general woodworking projects.

What's your regular go-to wood glue, and why?

 

[infinkc]

I like titebond 2

 

[matt_i]

Always TiteBond 2.

Main thing for me is it cleans up with water and doesn't affect finishes.

If I was using it outside I'd probably go with a polyurethane construction adhesive.

 

[brainypencil]

Titebond 2, Titebond 3, or Elmer's Max, there isn’t a lot of difference between the 3, and I use whichever is currently cheaper.

 

[kaymccampbell]

Titebond 3.

 

[nadogail]

The best is subjective because we don’t know what you are gluing and where it will be.
M

 

[CraigStu]

Titebond3. Even though most stuff I glue together won't get wet, I look at the water proof vs water resistant (T2) as a free bonus. I don't use enough to care what it costs.

 

[niget2002]

I use Titebond2 and Titebond3

I don't really have a preference between the two and will use whichever one I grab first. I still have quite a large jug of Titebond2, but once that's empty, I'll probably switch completely to Titebond3.

 

[glentre]

Used Elmer's yellow on interior applications for over 20 years in an architectural woodworking business with no problems. Except for the exterior and specialty use glues, we found all the general woodworking glues to be about the same performance wise.

Glen

 

[ARFLY]

Titebond 2

 

[dwasifar]

The best is subjective because we don’t know what you are gluing and where it will be.

Which is why I didn't ask what was "best." I asked what respondents use as a go-to, and why. I was hoping the "why" part would give me a good overview of use cases.

 

[Mainiac Mat]

TB3 Good open time, super strong and waterproof

For quick bonds on interior only items I just started using TB thick and it tacks and sets up and dries very quickly

 

[mc4life27]

I like titebond 2

Same I use and keep titebond 2 on hand and will grab 3 if I need it to be water proof. Now if I’m trying to be cheap cheap and making something that will end up in the trash soon then I will use whatever extra **** I have like I got a gallon of titebond 1 I got for free so used that until it was gone then back to 2


Sent from my iPhone using Garage Journal

 

[PCustoms]

Usually have a bottle of titebond 2 out.

Trying to use more poly glue, friendlier on cutting edges and easier to cleanup squeeze out (once dry!)

 

[jmiller_2308]

Elmer's caps just always piss me off so I now use titebond.

 

[NUTTSGT]

Titebond 2, Premium, blue label.

 

[rlitman]

Always TiteBond 2.

Main thing for me is it cleans up with water and doesn't affect finishes.

If I was using it outside I'd probably go with a polyurethane construction adhesive.

Titebond 2, Titebond 3, or Elmer's Max, there isn’t a lot of difference between the 3, and I use whichever is currently cheaper.

Years ago, I tested TiteBond original (red label) vs 2 (this was well before 3 came out), when I participated in a basswood bridge building competition. I found that both had similar tensile strength, but the original was more brittle, so I ended up building with the 2, and never looked back.

In the years since then, I tried the 3 when it came out, and was pleasantly surprised. A thin film of the original formula would dry relatively clear (yellowish), but the same film of the 2 would have a milky white cast. For whatever reason, I haven't seen that white from the 3, and from what I can tell, 3 is equally as strong as 2.

I don't need the extra water resistance that 3 provides over 2, but since it dries cleaner, my vote is for Titebond 3.

 

[brianh]

Tightbond 2 I go through gallons of it.

I use west system epoxy for my furniture mortise and tenon joints.

 

[Firebrick43]

Years ago, I tested TiteBond original (red label) vs 2 (this was well before 3 came out), when I participated in a basswood bridge building competition. I found that both had similar tensile strength, but the original was more brittle, so I ended up building with the 2, and never looked back.

In the years since then, I tried the 3 when it came out, and was pleasantly surprised. A thin film of the original formula would dry relatively clear (yellowish), but the same film of the 2 would have a milky white cast. For whatever reason, I haven't seen that white from the 3, and from what I can tell, 3 is equally as strong as 2.

I don't need the extra water resistance that 3 provides over 2, but since it dries cleaner, my vote is for Titebond 3.

Was this a school event or some other organization? I remember doing tooth pick bridges in middle school, and would like to do something similar with my boys (homeschooling)


As with many others, Titebond 2 by the gallon. Even mix it with drywall much for vinyl corner beads and glues sub floor layers together.

 

[rlitman]

Was this a school event or some other organization? I remember doing tooth pick bridges in middle school, and would like to do something similar with my boys (homeschooling)...

It was an event open to local high-school students, sponsored by a local engineering college. I made up a whole bunch of samples that I tested to destruction before starting on my actual bridge. I remember testing with West System epoxy, Titebond I and II, WeldBond, and several types of CA in T butted joints (a terrible woodworking connection that really separates strong adhesives from poor ones).

Nowadays, I've seen good ones that use pasta. The material choice isn't all that important, so long as there's a level playing field and solid rules. But the adhesive choice can make a big difference in these sort of structures, where you cannot use traditional fasteners, and connection strength comes heavily into play where you're using designs that work well in stuff like welded steel.

Rules usually dictate the span, some expected abutment sizes, minimum clearances in some locations (like clearance underneath, or a bridge deck that can pass a ping pong ball through it, etc.), a range of weight capacity for testing purposes and a scoring system that hopefully is based on strength to weight ratio.

 

[Git]

Normally Titebond 2 but if I have a complicated glue up, I will use Titebond 3 for it's longer open time

I also like using the FastCap BlueBot bottles

 

[Firebrick43]

Git, just the other night I was glueing up mortice and tennon joint in an arts and craft end table I am building. I was thinking of all the woodworking tools and equipment I own, much of it pretty high end, the cheap gluebot was my favorite woodworking tool I own

 

[jives]

I am surprised that no one mentioned Gorilla polyurethane glue, particularly how much they advertise (if you watch home shows). Not a strict wood glue, but useful anyway.

BTW, TB II or III, whichever hasn't hardened in the bottle.

 

[Firebrick43]

I am surprised that no one mentioned Gorilla polyurethane glue, particularly how much they advertise (if you watch home shows). Not a strict wood glue, but useful anyway.

BTW, TB II or III, whichever hasn't hardened in the bottle.

I fell for the gorilla glue marketing once and quickly realized that titebond was still vastly superior in most cases. The only place I use it is non wood gluing, and oily exotics woods

 

[geneg]

When Gorilla first came out, I ordered an expensive pint of it to glue up a stair rail. Used about 1/4 of it & the remainder hardened in the bottle. Learned some lessons about it:
always buy small bottles
blue tape both sides of the parting lines to make cleaning up the foam out easier
don't get it on your hands- you'll have to wear it off
it does have some gap filling properties
it isn't really worth the extra work.

I usually use Titebond II or Elmer's Carpenter's wood glue.
Titebond has a no drip or sag Trim & Molding glue that works great for crown mold & casing

 

[PCustoms]

I am surprised that no one mentioned Gorilla polyurethane glue, particularly how much they advertise (if you watch home shows). Not a strict wood glue, but useful anyway.

BTW, TB II or III, whichever hasn't hardened in the bottle.

Yeah weird that no one mentioned it....

Usually have a bottle of titebond 2 out.

Trying to use more poly glue, friendlier on cutting edges and easier to cleanup squeeze out (once dry!)

 

[rlitman]

When Gorilla first came out, I ordered an expensive pint of it to glue up a stair rail. Used about 1/4 of it & the remainder hardened in the bottle. Learned some lessons about it:
always buy small bottles
blue tape both sides of the parting lines to make cleaning up the foam out easier
don't get it on your hands- you'll have to wear it off
it does have some gap filling properties
it isn't really worth the extra work.

I usually use Titebond II or Elmer's Carpenter's wood glue.
Titebond has a no drip or sag Trim & Molding glue that works great for crown mold & casing

I've been down the road with Gorilla. The gap filling argument is unfortunately BS, because the foam it fills the gaps with adds no structural strength. And the mess it makes is awful.

I will HIGHLY recommend the clear non-foaming urethane glue from Gorilla. It's a great multi-material adhesive, but it's just not all that good for woodworking projects. Except perhaps as a moisture curing urethane finish, but that's a different story.

 

[Sawdust_]

I only use gorilla glue on my hair.
Seriously though Titebond 2 or 3 for everything, but when I need something with gap filling properties I use thickened West System 2 part epoxy its the strongest thing you could hope for.

 

[LS6 Tommy]

Grandpa always used Titebond II for furniture building. I think I have some somewhere. I have a bottle of Titebond III I used to fix loose cedar trim on my mailbox about 4 years ago. I got it because it said it was 100% waterproof. Hodling up well so far.

Tommy

 

[akalian]

If you need more open time, take a look at DAP Plastic Resin Glue. Open time measured in hours. Mixes with water, and dries rock hard.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000H5VUQG/?tag=atomicindus08-20

Plastic Resin Glue doesn't suit itself to veneering very well because of the water component. Then take a look at Unibond 800. Comes in three shades, whereas Plastic Resin only comes in a dark blend.
https://www.highlandwoodworking.com/unibond800laminatinggluewithmediumcatalystgallon.aspx

 

[rlitman]

If you need more open time, take a look at DAP Plastic Resin Glue. Open time measured in hours. Mixes with water, and dries rock hard.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000H5VUQG/?tag=atomicindus08-20

Plastic Resin Glue doesn't suit itself to veneering very well because of the water component. Then take a look at Unibond 800. Comes in three shades, whereas Plastic Resin only comes in a dark blend.
https://www.highlandwoodworking.com/unibond800laminatinggluewithmediumcatalystgallon.aspx

The fumes from urea formaldehyde are pretty toxic before it cures. In a well ventilated (mostly outdoors) shop, it's good stuff, and used to be the standard for boat building, but has long since been outmoded by newer technologies.