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Bulb delay when turned on
- Thread starter vdotmatrix
- Start date
cvairwerks
Well-known member
Capacitor slow to charge in the high voltage igniter circuit maybe?
OP
vdotmatrix
Well-known member
The panasonic bulb doesn't do it, only the sylvania.Capacitor slow to charge in the high voltage igniter circuit maybe?
OP
vdotmatrix
Well-known member
Ok, a ping…. These were 4/$12 on amazon. Get what i paid for them?Kind of a "ping" noise?
They look like PL lamps, some have an integrated starter which would make that noise.
Assuming it's the right lamp for the fixture, it's not a problem. It's actually pretty normal to hear a "ping" when a preheat lamp fires up. Some are louder than others.Ok, a ping…. These were 4/$12 on amazon. Get what i paid for them?
OP
vdotmatrix
Well-known member
Ugggg. I have two similar fans in my home because rhey are quiet And **** a lot of cfms….. but i have not seen this in the bulbs i have replaced them with…Assuming it's the right lamp for the fixture, it's not a problem. It's actually pretty normal to hear a "ping" when a preheat lamp fires up. Some are louder than others.
Lassen Forge
Well-known member
Different electronics in the bulb - The panasonic has a cap built in that holds the charge, when you flick the switch it fires. The Sylvania needs that initial start-up time to build the charge, heat the filaments and strike the "arc" in the bulb.
OP
vdotmatrix
Well-known member
I wish I would have known that before buying these…. wish i coukd find an LED equivalent. It is annoying. Seems like older technology…Different electronics in the bulb - The panasonic has a cap built in that holds the charge, when you flick the switch it fires. The Sylvania needs that initial start-up time to build the charge, heat the filaments and strike the "arc" in the bulb.
Lassen Forge
Well-known member
Yeah, I had a desk lamp with that same set up, and it is an expensive PITA about 1-2x a year when the bulb "soiled the sheets"...
I now have my dad's desk lamp when HE was a kid (think late '30's art deco), fitted with an LED bulb, and refuse to go back. If I had found an LED equivalent for my 4 tube, I would have snagged it, as it threw some serious light... just not for long.
I now have my dad's desk lamp when HE was a kid (think late '30's art deco), fitted with an LED bulb, and refuse to go back. If I had found an LED equivalent for my 4 tube, I would have snagged it, as it threw some serious light... just not for long.
alfredeneuman
Well-known member
Both Walmart and Target sell Panasonic CFL lamps (bulbs).
Just pick one up and be done with it.
Just pick one up and be done with it.
OP
vdotmatrix
Well-known member
I dont see the panasonic brand. Does it specify doesnt not have the annoying delay and ping?Both Walmart and Target sell Panasonic CFL lamps (bulbs).
Just pick one up and be done with it.
Last edited:
alfredeneuman
Well-known member
I just did a Google Search for "panasonic cfl light bulbs", and that was 2 of the results.
Lamps Plus is another result......and there's always eBay
Lassen Forge already explained why the Panasonics are different from the Sylvanias.I dont see the panasonic brand. Does it specify doesnt not have the annoying delay and ping?
Lamps Plus is another result......and there's always eBay
OP
vdotmatrix
Well-known member
A.E.Newman....I was being facetious. sorta, but in all your "what, me worry wissssdom?", how can you tell by looking at the packaging whether or not it is going delay and ping, when turned on...I read what he said as to what is happening and why---but how does one shop for BUBS that don't do this? ThanksI just did a Google Search for "panasonic cfl light bulbs", and that was 2 of the results.
Lassen Forge already explained why the Panasonics are different from the Sylvanias.
Lamps Plus is another result......and there's always eBay
OP
vdotmatrix
Well-known member
anything I find is a replacement for the panasonic 2-pin, 13w, CFL bulb. Again, back to my question. how can you tell what circuitry you are buying?
The circuitry and performance information you want isn't available. There are many reasons for this which all boil down to...."it's not that important".anything I find is a replacement for the panasonic 2-pin, 13w, CFL bulb. Again, back to my question. how can you tell what circuitry you are buying?
Now, it might be extremely important to you and that's fine. But CFL lamps have a myriad of different types and styles and manufacturers and they all behave slightly differently from each other.
You can look for something called a "quick strike (QS)" lamp. I know that Philips used to make them, but they were 4-pin and used an electronic ballast. They made these specifically for areas that are on occupancy sensors, like public lavatories.
A company like Panasonic probably doesn't actually make that lamp. They hire a contract manufacturer to make it for them. Quite often, they'll change contract manufacturers mid-stream. That means that you can buy the same lamp from Panasonic and it will be made by two different manufacturers, each with it's own behavior.
Added to this is the fact that you're using old style lamps and ballasts that are becoming less available. Most mainstream manufacturers have quit making them entirely, so the only available products are old stock, replacements made by small manufacturers, or LED replicants.
You're on a wild goose chase hunting down a dead technology. You can do trial and error if you want, or you can spend hundreds of hours on the internet trying to find out when, why, how a CFL lamps is made, and which one comes on instantly.
It might be easier to just replace it.
Good luck,
CD
OP
vdotmatrix
Well-known member
That is a great answer . Thank you.The circuitry and performance information you want isn't available. There are many reasons for this which all boil down to...."it's not that important".
Now, it might be extremely important to you and that's fine. But CFL lamps have a myriad of different types and styles and manufacturers and they all behave slightly differently from each other.
You can look for something called a "quick strike (QS)" lamp. I know that Philips used to make them, but they were 4-pin and used an electronic ballast. They made these specifically for areas that are on occupancy sensors, like public lavatories.
A company like Panasonic probably doesn't actually make that lamp. They hire a contract manufacturer to make it for them. Quite often, they'll change contract manufacturers mid-stream. That means that you can buy the same lamp from Panasonic and it will be made by two different manufacturers, each with it's own behavior.
Added to this is the fact that you're using old style lamps and ballasts that are becoming less available. Most mainstream manufacturers have quit making them entirely, so the only available products are old stock, replacements made by small manufacturers, or LED replicants.
You're on a wild goose chase hunting down a dead technology. You can do trial and error if you want, or you can spend hundreds of hours on the internet trying to find out when, why, how a CFL lamps is made, and which one comes on instantly.
It might be easier to just replace it.
Good luck,
CD
nadogail
Well-known member
"Ping"?
With my ears I don't hear a lot of stuff, including your "Ping".
With my ears I don't hear a lot of stuff, including your "Ping".
OP
vdotmatrix
Well-known member
It is such a pain in the transistor. I bought these LEDs replacements for the similar panasonic model exhaust fan and the ^%$#@%$# would not work in it. Four pin lights, I give up...I am remodeling the upstairs after daughter leaves for college in the fall....maybeThe circuitry and performance information you want isn't available. There are many reasons for this which all boil down to...."it's not that important".
Now, it might be extremely important to you and that's fine. But CFL lamps have a myriad of different types and styles and manufacturers and they all behave slightly differently from each other.
You can look for something called a "quick strike (QS)" lamp. I know that Philips used to make them, but they were 4-pin and used an electronic ballast. They made these specifically for areas that are on occupancy sensors, like public lavatories.
A company like Panasonic probably doesn't actually make that lamp. They hire a contract manufacturer to make it for them. Quite often, they'll change contract manufacturers mid-stream. That means that you can buy the same lamp from Panasonic and it will be made by two different manufacturers, each with it's own behavior.
Added to this is the fact that you're using old style lamps and ballasts that are becoming less available. Most mainstream manufacturers have quit making them entirely, so the only available products are old stock, replacements made by small manufacturers, or LED replicants.
You're on a wild goose chase hunting down a dead technology. You can do trial and error if you want, or you can spend hundreds of hours on the internet trying to find out when, why, how a CFL lamps is made, and which one comes on instantly.
It might be easier to just replace it.
Good luck,
CD
Just went thru a slow to light bath fan light, but it was incandescent. Thought maybe it was internally wired thru the heater coils or some other weird configuration. Turned out to be a flakey switch. Triple horizontal gang in a simplex box. Could not find a replacement. It was from an era that the switches were easy to disassemble and clean. Quick fix.
As of today everything is 110% in the wife’s bathroom. Had to chip roots in sewer, snake and flush roof vent from the roof and the sink, replace toilet innards, removed p.o.s. Corroded diverter as well as a self destructed pressure valve going to the shower. Flushed the H2O heater. Should have made a video of the dirt water and elm seed pods shooting out of the overflows.
Life’s lessons saved me as the light did not initially work after cleaning and reinstalling the switch. The bulb blew sometime during the process. Figured what are the chances, and trusted my meter and knowledge. On the back burner is a rain drop config for the roof vent.
A women w/o bathroom facilities is not to be ignored.
As of today everything is 110% in the wife’s bathroom. Had to chip roots in sewer, snake and flush roof vent from the roof and the sink, replace toilet innards, removed p.o.s. Corroded diverter as well as a self destructed pressure valve going to the shower. Flushed the H2O heater. Should have made a video of the dirt water and elm seed pods shooting out of the overflows.
Life’s lessons saved me as the light did not initially work after cleaning and reinstalling the switch. The bulb blew sometime during the process. Figured what are the chances, and trusted my meter and knowledge. On the back burner is a rain drop config for the roof vent.
A women w/o bathroom facilities is not to be ignored.
rburke65
Well-known member
If it were me.....I’d change the fan. Problem solved
Despard switch. Not common anymore but you can get them.Just went thru a slow to light bath fan light, but it was incandescent. Thought maybe it was internally wired thru the heater coils or some other weird configuration. Turned out to be a flakey switch. Triple horizontal gang in a simplex box. Could not find a replacement. It was from an era that the switches were easy to disassemble and clean. Quick fix.
As of today everything is 110% in the wife’s bathroom. Had to chip roots in sewer, snake and flush roof vent from the roof and the sink, replace toilet innards, removed p.o.s. Corroded diverter as well as a self destructed pressure valve going to the shower. Flushed the H2O heater. Should have made a video of the dirt water and elm seed pods shooting out of the overflows.
Life’s lessons saved me as the light did not initially work after cleaning and reinstalling the switch. The bulb blew sometime during the process. Figured what are the chances, and trusted my meter and knowledge. On the back burner is a rain drop config for the roof vent.
A women w/o bathroom facilities is not to be ignored.
If it were me I would just use the fan and light as it is because there is nothing wrong with it....If it were me.....I’d change the fan. Problem solved
If you don't mind some basic wiring perhaps you could remove the fluorescent assembly and mount something like this in the light
Basically install a traditional socket. You would need to limit the led wattage to no higher than the fluorescent lights since heat is often the power limit with an enclosed fixture (vs wire amperage limits).
Basically install a traditional socket. You would need to limit the led wattage to no higher than the fluorescent lights since heat is often the power limit with an enclosed fixture (vs wire amperage limits).